stusviews

I've had a bunch of hits and misses with even the location of "on" or "off" in the statement (before or after the spoken). But "audio" is now consistently ignored. It was not before a day or two or a week ago. I'm sure that change affects many.

All 2477D SwitchLincs are 100-277 Volts AC ± 10%, 50/60Hz.

Right you are. Thanks. Audio is now ignored by Alexa. I can now control the audio kitchen light and the audio sconces

I have that occasionally at the 3:00 AM query. I believe it's related to the ALL ON phenomenon which I've also experienced. Sometimes I get a partial ALL ON. OTOH, it could be a low battery.

Echo is confused and so am I. I've used "audio light" to turn on the light for the audio rack for months. This morning the audio light was on and I couldn't control it. Instead, the room light (just called "light") controlled it. that is both the rack light and ceiling light came on and off together. I deleted both from the Echc and also the portal, then added both back (one-at-a-time). Same result. I renamed the audio light to "rack light." That works. But, saying "audio light" still controls the ceiling light even thought "audio" is not part of the spoken. LR Echo spokens LR Portal spokens LR Ceiling spoken

Can't be done with only a SwitchLinc. Double tapping on will always turn load to full on (fast) and double tapping off will turn the load off (fast). You can accomplish what you want by not connecting any load to the SwitchLinc, adding a Micro Module to the fixture and controlling the Micro Module using a program. That will also introduce a small delay.

The wireless thermostat has every feature that the wired thermostat has. You can use virtually any USB power supply. All USB chargers/adapters have a positive, usually red, and a negative, usually black.

It's only a benefit if the user first, is aware of that feature and second, connects a device that is safe to turn on unattended. Nowhere is the first requirement documented (except in forums).

Browse to the release you are using and follow step 4.

I'm not experiencing any difficulty turning a Micro Module on or off manually or via the Admin Console no matter how it was last controlled.

Pull-eze!

Here's some of the push-pull amplifier details (McIntosh MC2200); The output stage consists of 6 rugged complimentary power transistors connected in single ended push-pull parallel. This stage is connected as a balanced emitter follower which allows great stability and low distortion. Due to a unique arrangement of the output bias network, the output transistors are operated class B free of crossover distortion. Heat is not produced by these transistors when there is no output. The bias network for the output stage is temperature compensated assuring class B operation at any temperature or power level. The speakers are two pairs of Acoustic Research AS-58s with each pair wired in series and connected to the 4 Ω output terminals on the MC2200. When I turn the volume up (using a push button) I can push the volume to the level of pain with no discernible distortion

So, you're not cooking with gas.

Sometimes I open or close the lights. But, I turn my audio system on and off, even turn it up and, on occasion, turn it down

All IR sensors (and transmitters) I've used have three functional wires, power in, IR in (or out) and common.

All my programs run the Else statements when I ask Alexa to turn the program spoken off. For example: LR Audio On/Off If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Set Scene 'LR / Scenes / LR Audio Power' On <--toggles audio power Else Set Scene 'LR / Scenes / LR Audio Power' On <--toggles audio power Post your program here.

I control my sound system using an IRLinc transmitter. Each time I request ON, the power toggles (from On to Off or Off to On). So I wrote a program that has the same statement in both Then and Else. Problem solved.

Once all the motors have been programmed, the Somfy URTS interface is set to channel 1 for control by the ISY. If you have more that one Somfy URTS insterface, the second is set to 2, the third to 3, etc. Commends sent specify the particular interface and specific channel.

Yes, that can be done. Is anything in place now that interfaces the Somfy motors and the ISY? How many motors are involved?

If UDI doesn't have the API to fully support a device in 4+, then the device won't be fully supported in 5+. That's not to say that 5+ isn't more advanced than 4+ nor that 5+ doesn't have more features. But those features are not tied to any particular device. Having access to a device's set of instructions matters as well as the routines available. That would have been my two cents until Canada eliminated pennies

Some SH devices have been discounted. Others not so. Caveat emptor: the buyer alone is responsible for checking before a purchase is made. I maintain my position, a good deal is a good deal. I'll buy an item at $10 even if the seller is making $5 rather that from a seller who's making only $2, but charging $11. (identical item) I do take issue that SH has an inflated retail price for the Amazon Echo.

If it's a device want/need and the price is lower than anywhere else, I'll buy it. I don't care if it's 30% off, 3% off or even 0.3% off. The bottom line is what matters.

The list price for the Amazon Echo is $180. C'mon Larry, $179.99 (Best Buy price) is not $179.

Each motor can be programmed to one or more channels. Select the channel first, then add the motor(s) you want controlled with that channel to the Somfy URTS II. You cannot copy channels using the interface, but you can using ISY programs. BTW, what are you using to interface the Somfy URTS II with the ISY?

My wife had an affinity for the old toggle switches and moaned the demise of the last one. These are not of an era that created push button switches which are really unusual and add to the decor if that's the home. Toggle switches are a cheap solution. There's really no nostalgia unless you like the mass production of look alike homes.