stusviews

I don't use From: First-Name Last-Name: myemailaddress@gmail.com I use only: From: myemailaddress@gmail.com

Just to make sure, you're using your email password, not the ISY. Correct?

Which indication are you getting ! or 1101?

Having different versions of the firmware and UI can give unexpected results. It makes a major difference if the firmware and UI are not identical.

1. I've never seen a standard duplex outlet that didn't have metal brackets. The bracket serves as ground when using (grounded) metal boxes. That alone doesn't mean they're quality. Did you make note of the brand? 2. All 20 ampere duplex receptacles have screws because they're meant for 12AWG which is rated for 20 amps. The maximum size wire for push-in connectors is 14AWG wire (15 amp rating). A problem with using 20 amp receptacles with 14AWG wire is that someone may inadvertently plug a heavy load into the outlet (e.g., a maintenance person).

Nope. Without more info, I bypassed the survey.

Support has been available from the very beginning.

The 994i is never out of warranty for free support.

What does that have to do with the CacoonTech Forum? Who created the poll? Edit: OK, I found the creator

The 2440 seems to be the only RF device with that particular problem and that specific solution. Lot's of speculation, but no definitive answers as to why.

Interesting. My Insteon thermostats indicate .5º increments. Do you have the thermostat set for ºF or ºC?

You can dim a scene (dim or brighten only) or a device (percentage). You cannot dim a program. When you give a program a spoken, ON runs then, OFF runs else. If you want to run the condition (IF statements), then tell Alexa to ask IZZY to run the program/spoken.

The 2440 needs to be distant from the ISY, but near any dual band device to successfully add it to the ISY. For most of my 2440s (I have seven) 40' was far enough, but one needed to be 60' distant.

Is that on the display or what the ISY reports?

If you have one SwitchLinc connected to line, neutral and load (downstairs box) and it controls the load, then disconnect the red wire from the 3-wire cable and cap it (at both ends). Connect the white wire from the 3-wire cable to the neutral bundle, connect the black wire from the 3-wire cable to the line bundle. At the upstairs box, cap the red wire from the 3-wire cable (I already said that). Connect the white wire from the 3-wire cable to the SwitchLinc white wire, connect the black wire from the 3-wire cable to the SwitchLinc black wire. Cap the SwitchLinc red wire (separately). Create a scene where each SwitchLinc is a controller. That's it

Any Insteon scene that has more than one controller is a virtual 3-way configuration. Any standard 3-way wiring can be reconnected to support a virtual 3-way configuration.

That's the most usual wiring, black and white for line and neutral, respectively. The red wire, if used, is connected to the load.

IMO, black should be line at all boxes, not red. Aside: The NEC does allow any color other than white, gray (both are allowed as a neutral) or green (ground only) to be line--unless appropriately marked.

The OP has an original 3-way configuration with three wires (ground, if any, is disregarded), black, red and white, none of which is a neutral. That's not unusual. Yes, the wires need to be connected differently to 1) work correctly with Insteon devices and 2) be in accordance with the code. Both requirements are easily met. A description of the wires in each box is required.

Not so. It is not only standard practice to use the white wire for other than a neutral wire in a 3-way configuration, it's the only possible way to wire a 3-way configuration when using a 3-conductor Romex cable.. The white wire should be marked (i.e., color tape) to be in accordance with the NEC, but that doesn't always happen.

In any 3-way configuration there must be two travelers, not one. Also, at least one white wire in not a neutral. Black can be a line wire, a load or one of the two traveler wires. So can white or red be any of those. If you have a 3-wau switch with only black, white and red wires, then one wire is the load or line and the other two are travelers. Nearly every 3-way configuration can be controlled using regular SwitchLincs. Describe the wires in each switch box. Did you make not of which wire was connected to the black screw in the original configuration?

I use a cut in half extension cord so often that I've added fully insulated alligator clips to banana plugs fastened to the wires. The banana plugs allow for different attachments (e.g., alligator clamps/crocodile clips). MWareman, thanks. An inline switch saves plugging the extension cord in and out.

Devices in blue are SwitchLincs BR Nighttime If Time is 1:00:00AM Or Control 'DR / Devices / DR Side Door Light / DR Side Door G Front Off' is switched Off Then Set 'BR / Devices / BR Ceiling Primary 50' 10% (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Ceiling Secondary 50' 10% (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Fan+Drapes.A Fan 1' On 1 / Off 0 (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Fireplace' 10% (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Patio Primary 40' 10% (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Sconces 15' 10% (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Tabtop.A Ceiling 50' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Wall KPL.A Lamp 35' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set 'BR / Devices / BR Wet Bar' 10% (Backlight Level) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Running a version firmware different from the UI version can lead to unpredictable results. BTW, I don't disbelieve you, I'm just trying to find the cause of the problem

Scrolling below 100% I get Beep Duration (which doesn't do anything) followed by BackLight Level.