Brian H

Could also damage the Insteon switch's. If the transformers are not rated to be dimmed. The dimmer switch manuals all caution on using them with inductive loads like transformers. The clue maybe when dimmed the communications to the switches suffers.

Then you are saying when I used Auto Discover the v.33 was a bogus number? It added all six buttons and they where red. Just like the ones I added with the Add a RemoteLinc choice that gave me the v.00 for firmware.

In tools. Diagnostics. Show PLM Status/Info. Does it show connected and the PLM firmware version? Are you using a firewall? I use Zone Alarm Free version and until I added my ISY99is IP address to the Trusted Zone. Things didn't work correctly.

I found that if I used the Auto Discover choice and not the Add a RemoteLinc choice. I could get My Lighting to show the actual firmware version in my RemoteLinc v.33. While the Add a RemoteLinc does not and shows v.00 Any reason why the Add a RemoteLinc has to be used if the Auto Discover will also? Well as long as you remember to turn on the linking mode with the Bright and Dim Buttons.

Thank you for the update on what was causing the flood of Insteon signals on the power line.

http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/p ... 0Guide.pdf

Does sound like noise. My LEDs flash with noise. Though I believe my later revision ApplianceLincs do not flash.

Normally the PLM is connected to port A and Port B is not used. Do you need the information on the Port B that normally is not usually used? Maybe you are trying to telnet to it? Data here: http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... _ISY_Shell The pro kit comes with a null modem cable for the Port B to Computer connection.

Have you found the UDI wiki and full users manuals yet? http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf I have not seen any videos yet.

What revision firmware are you using on you ISY99i? Help tab About choice will give you the revision you have. I believe support for the 2477D was added in 2.8.1 Program details. Right click on the program in question. You can select delete if you want to remove the whole thing. If you have not found the UDI wiki yet. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page Full Users Guide. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf

I used the applet tonight to open the program. The last known state was blank. Then Java popped up with a security warning and wanted to block the applet. I may try the clear cache thing again and then download the applet fresh.

Step f. is also one I had never seen before. Not using the local IP address like I usually used.

I had three certificates before I started. Two from UDI and a Java FX Runtime Object. I left the Java one and deleted the original UDI ones.

My first attempt failed. Your server chopped off the end of the update files. The files properties showed about 1.9Mb file size. Second download was 3.19Mb in size. I would recommend that anyone downloading the files. Check its size before trying the update. Also for long time users that have done updates before. Follow the added step of the Java Certificates. This is a new step. The System Ready/Busy flag in the lower left corner changes back to Green even if the system is still busy. If the Busy progress bar on the screen hits 100% and has to start at 0% again. The Busy indication is still there just a Green flag not Yellow. I will try it with a SynchroLinc if it ever ships. Seems the never ending slipping ship date is now 01/14/2011

You may want to verify the SD Memory Card didn't work loose in shipping. I believe the newer ones have an external slot where you can access it. My older one you have to remove the cover. Here is a Link to the full users manual if you don't have it yet. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf The UDI wiki. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page

Have you tried downloading the file again? There where reports that the server was cutting the file short sometimes.

On line manual for the KeypadLinc. Disable beep is in this manual. Dimmer Model http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2486D_Manual Relay model. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2486S_Manual I believe I also saw an improper type load on the dimmer may also make it beep. You may want to do a factory reset. As beep is supposed to be disabled by default and yours may have some test links in it from shipping.

I tried to telnet my unit and it worked as expected. Except XS would NOT exit the shell and the only way to disconnect was to use the reboot choice in the shell.

My error log is now showing many no network connection messages. When I rebooted my DI-604. I generated the message and expected it. While it was rebooting. The error log showed every five seconds it tried the connection again. Is this correct? I also noticed the activity LED for the port the ISY99i is on is almost constantly showing activity. Again is this now normal? Wireshark shows many messages with the source IP of the ISY99i. To an IP 239.255.255.250

Follow the instructions to the letter and it works. I used the .jnp icon on my desktop and it did not change the about to 2.8.9 Used the https://your.isy.ip.address/admin and it did work.

I don't think you where asleep for a long time. First time I ever saw a reference to a 992i or 994i.

Mine went fine with no problems. I also saw the 2.8.8 in the About Tab and backup I made after the update.

The 2414U 2414S and 2814U PLCs. Do not do Insteon Extended Messages. Could be one reason Smartlabs feels they are not as reliable.

No problems installing it when I did it. I see in the release notes. A fix was done for the SynchroLinc. When mine gets here I will have a new toy to try out.

Yes they have a 2 year warranty. Actually if you had called technical services. They may have done a cross ship of the replacement. They would take your credit card number and charge the new one if you didn't return the dud. Well you will not have to do many tests for them. You can just tell them you did a power cycle and factory reset and it still did not go off even though the LED did. Zero Ohms. Sounds like a shorted triac to me.