aLf

HI Guys: I built the house new in 2002, I believe the generator went in in 2003. It only has 25 hours on it and the big share of that was exercising! The last time I ran it prior to this ( for actual backup use) was two years ago. I had a garage door opener and Panasonic Network Camera fail that time and I attributed it to the actual electrical storm that took the power out. I now figure it was over-voltaging then as well. I did talk directly with the manufacturer last month. They supplied the new VR at cost and I was billed $100 for the install. I then decided to just change out the entire generator to a new model. The new model not only is computer monitored for all faults, it is also a bit bigger (old-12/new-17KW). It also incorporates a whole house switch rather than the old style 12-breaker switch. I can't give any input yet as it is scheduled to be installed this coming week. Generac gave me a break on the price, however it still is very expensive to me. The price discount was not the big hit, my old unit is worth only $500 according to the dealer!!! I paid over 4K for it in 2003. What can I do? I don't consider the old unit trustworthy. This ordeal set me back a few hundred dollars and a bunch of time replacing switches in Insteon stuff alone. Your comments on watching other stuff is well taken. That said, at least I only had 12 breakers worth of stuff on line rather than the whole house. So far everything else seems fine. I'll follow up with a final read after the new unit goes in. There is another poster on the forum who recently installed this same unit. His posts relate to monitoring the actual state of the generator via Insteon. I have opted (for now) not to complicate the upcoming install with a "home brewed" Insteon ad-on. I will later and maybe one of you electrical guru's will ahve an even better way to accomplish that. (Please take a moment to read his informative posts and leave me feedback on any ideas). For now I just keep my fingers crossed that the install goes well, the unit works as advertised and my stuff stays protected. Textbooks are expensive, real life is even more costly... In the end my biggest problem with the whole thing is that there are tens of thousands of these units out there where folks feel "protected" and in reality their investments and homes are anything but. A voltage regulator is one thing, over-voltage or wrong voltage protection is an absolute must. They spend the money for a low oil pressure shut down, but ignore the bigger picture. Hence the $500 core value. Thanks, aLf

Hi all! I have followed with interest many posts on the forum re: backup generators. I was always from day 1 afraid of the generator and Insteon living together. I had a very bad situation a few weeks ago which I want to share in hopes that someone else can benefit from this. We had another power outage (dozens per year). I had a Generac 12KW unit, vintage 2003. I kept it off as long as possible only to manually power it up after 8-10 hours of no electric. I went into the house to find some VERY bright lights and things making sounds I never heard before. Within a minute, two loud POPS were heard along with bright flashes. Two SWL's blew-big time. I also lost several bulbs on various lights. I IMMEDIATELY shut down the generator. The SWL's were burned really bad and trashed. I disconnected the Generac from the house system and found it to be 300+ volts on the high side, 150's on the low side. Had I not been home to shut it down, I wonder how bad it would have become? That said, the culprit was the voltage regulator which I'm told is on a new revision number. At very least you need to check yours to see if it is old or new style. More important though is that that unit has NO over voltage protection, unbelievable... After changing the VR, it works good now, but my faith is lost. I am trading it in for a new model, a 17 KW with a whole house switch. The new unit is computer controlled and one of the many safeguards is over voltage. Expensive lesson. A gentleman on this forum has a good post on monitoring the newer models. I will unless someone else has a better option, go with his In line linc solution. In a nutshell, all I want is an email from my ISY if the generator comes on. Any other ideas? Thanks for any input, aLf

I have one single TriggerLInc which I want to install on a door. I read the instructions and am a bit confused. I don't want the TL to turn on any light, instead I want to write a program that will "sense" the opening of the door by ISY and just send a simple e-mail. If so, what is the easiest way to set the TL up? Also will the TL talk with an AP which is pretty much on the other side of the house? Thanks, aLf

I have several Panasonic webcams installed. They offer a "motion detection" mode. When I'm home I don't want motion and have that option set off. It was a pain to continually arm and dis-arm them. I have a network module callout that when I push a KPL button upon leaving/arriving home (also can be done via Mobilinc), sends the CGI transfer code to each camera to turn the motion on/off. This same KPL button also sets my ISY to home/away mode. It has been very helpful. That said, a guy on this forum, Burak? made the code. Maybe he could post as to how he made this code and how to modify it? One thing I've always wanted to do was modify it so as to incorporate WeatherBug data, i.e., sun data to turn the motion off during very sunny weather. I have more clouds and shaddows from the clouds setting off motion than I do people or animals. The CGI transfer codes could be written to do things such as turning a PTZ camera to a certain spot upon a light switch push, etc. Depending on your camera, if it is Panasonic, they offer a very good booklet (downloadable at:)http://panasonic.net/pcc/support/netwkcam/download/us.html. If you dream up something good, please come back and update us. aLf

oberkc: Not at all. I (and I hope everyone) appreciate the in depth ideas. I wish I could visit first hand to see specific bulbs and get a (feel) for the color and warmth. You must have spent 1,000's on the bulbs? When you say you had to change power supplies, is there anything wron with running a supply WAY below the normal wattage? I have two exremely reliable and built tough units from Roberts Step Lighting that run all my outdoor stuff. The bulbs are for the most part 3155 & 3156 10-20 watt knife bases. There is a bunch of them and they add up to the max of each transformer. (If) there is an LED version, I would expect a 20 watter to go to .5 watts or so, that would equate to probably dropping each load to almost nothing. Would I have to cahne the trans? I agree that a base of info (maybe another thread) listing various bulb types and suitable LED's that others have found would be very valuable. Thanks again, aLf

oberkc: If you could, with the experience you must have in changing the entire house, maybe give some of us tidbits and suggestions on certain bulbs/manufacturers/applications that you have found. Any ideas on cost mangaement? What kind of impact if any have you seen with Insteon? Thanks, aLf

IOGUY: Should I aso change it to an IP in the .150's as well (outside the DHCP of the router)? aLf

LeeG & all: TRust me, i am willing to do whatever (you) experts believe is "prudent". I was advised previous to , at initial implementation to set static on ISY and to do the IP/Mac bind. I am not opposed to "trying" something new. My understanding is that if you have a static IP, in this case .14 assigned to ISY and ISY says its IP should be .14, nothing else owns or can "lease" the IP. I'm no expert, far from it, but I'm trying to learn as we go. My reference to 80% is not good. In reality anything less than 100% is not acceptable for a unit of any kind that I have to ask someone to re-boot. That said, I find it questionable a to why the controlled re-boot (my neighbor induced) works every time. I am sure that regardless of the power interupt, there is nothing else getting to the .14 IP other than ISY. To me it falls into the PFM category of a millasecond making the difference in success or not. Again, I only asked to see if there was a better way to skin the network setup-cat. As the original poster asked---Is there any sure way to re-oot ISY remotely? I'm not wild about the ols plug-in timer working every day at a preset time as I can see the recipe for disaster re-booting this thing 365.25 times a year! I was looking more for a network controlled item that would allow access to the 120v that powers ISY. IoGuy: If one does not assign a static IP in ISY and allows it to determine via DHCP its own IP---How does my MobiLinc know the IP address? Presntly MobiLinc requires in the setup to know what the (internal) IP is for ISY. Not that other peripherals equate. But I have six Panasonic cameras on this network, all are static IP's set in the cameras as well as the router. As I stated earlier, the only difference is they are .150's (outside) the DHCP range. Is my only issue here to change the internal IP address of ISY to a .150 number outside as well? I'd love to hear from an expert as to how to set up this network properly. Thanks, aLf

It is inside the DHCP range. 192.xxx.x.14 It is hard in ISY and the router. In addition I have the option to add it as a strict bind to the Mac address of ISY. Keep in mind that most of the time it comes up as advertised. aLf

Hi Michel: I had looked at the router previous to the conflict and noted the corect (inernal) IP address, 192.xxx.x.14). I lso looked at the email I recieved that morning (while ISY was not allowing access) and it too showed 192.xxx.xx.14. This tells me that ISY was assigned that IP (also same IP I have set static to Mac bind) and was able to send an email from the ISY device (traceable through "Properties in my Outlook). While I'm gone only the six cameras and vOnage are available to the router----they all functioned properly. Then the only thing we did was unplug ISY & PLM and pronto we were back? I'm not posting this any reason other than to see if there is a comon thread anyone else has found. I'm all for using the help provided by the router and static, etc. Is there any way around having to worry about this? Thanks Michel & Everone else. aLf

Xathros: I have it assigned as a static in the router (and also as a IP/Mac address bind). Then in ISY I have set the static address per UD instructions. It boots back up 80% of the time like it should, BUT it's the other 20%.... I know that theboot cycles of every product are variable. I d know that almost every "controlled" boot, i.e. unplugging brings it back almost 100% of the time. aLf

Michel: You are aware, I know. I have had the same problem since day 1. Last week mine did the same (always when I'm away for a long period). My problems always come when after we have a power outage (happens often). I'd say 100% of the time my entire network comes back up... Consists of the modem, router (Draytek) and 6 Panasonic cameras and Vonage. My ISY however only comes up 80% of the time. The other 20% I have to physically have a neighbor go over and I have him unplug the power from ISY and the PLM (not sure if PLM is needed). Then ISY comes back and my world is good. (Michel) after the problem a week ago, we have had a couple outages and ISY did just fine. There is really no good reason for the lack of it coming on line. I have troubleshot it through the Draytek router and see that ISY (static IP) is seen at the router and therefore portforwarded. ISY does continue to run programs including it's ALIVE e-mail to me every morning at 7. It is however unable to talk with me remotely until the unplug/reboot (even through MobiLinc)??? The green light is on when the neighbor gets there and all appears good. I too would like to find a good (remote way) to reboot it. My neighbor is a nice guy and he does get a Chritmas gift every year, but I still feel like I'm imposing on him. Any clever re-boot ideas? aLf

Kind of Cheesy (but I'm from Wisconsin). Use an Appliance link with an LED of some sort plugged in that flashes (only thing I can think of is a flashing Christmas tree light). Make a simple program that monitors the TRiggerlinc, when gate open turn AL on. When gate closed turn AL off. aLf

I have a network call-out that controls a Panasonic network camera (was written for me). I have to change a parameter in it to modify certain operatinal times. My question is... How do I copy the code from the network modue to an editor (Notepad works for me), I have the new code and can insert it but then need to re-paste it into the network module. Help is much appreciated. Thanks, aLf

Is there any need to worry about "upsetting" ISY and the network of switchs by querrying. With a vacation home and being away, I always tend to not mess with the system while away. Does querry cause any undo stress and leave me open to a possible lock-up while away? aLf

I'd have to think that three other programs including a manual formula would lend one to believe that three the same and one different (ISY)---well you do the math. Again, I'm not making a mountain out of this. In fact, I'm happy with it just being close. The fact is something is off.

My comments re: the times being off are not refering to the visual effect of it. I have several computer programs and also a manual way to figure it per lat/long and they are all withing a few seconds for a ceratin day. ISY has always varied with the others by up to five minutes for a particular morning or night. I have always wondered about the "internal" figuring done by ISY.

Fly-boy here. I have the exact coordinates for my house and ISY is still a bit off. I can pin-point lat/long to exact. No more than 5 minutes on any given day, just off. I have never understood why. aLf

So do you mean using the IP Address for house 1 or 2 as the "when houe1", etc. Anyone actually done it that can explain the way to set it up? Thanks

My first house is up and working well now for many years. I'm about to convert the other house (250 miles away) to an ISY 99 as well. I got to thinking the other day??? Is there a way for one ISY to talk to the other. A simple question would be for instance, could you have a KPL at house #1 turn on if house #2 SWL ABC was on, or even nicer, could you trigger a light from house to house. I have cameras at both houses and many times I turn on lights at night to look around. I currently shrink the AC down, then enter the other cameras and then return to AC to turn lights on and off (really freaks the neighbors out when they think you are not home). When done inspecting I simply close out of AC. It would be nice to be able to just control the other house via KPL or even a RemoteLinc. Michel, any comments? aLf

I have the Dakota Alert model which looks similar, It too will add on to ISY though I have never done that. You could use a I/O and trigger lights very easily. The Dakota has IR motion units as well. Their unit will look at 4 zones witha unique sound for each zone. All said, I have had reliability issues with the Dakota. I think out of my 3 zones, I have had at least one sender replaced on each. The alarm is really nice with a 400' driveway. I have the "metal" sensor such as you have posted near the road, then an IR up at the house, that way a car will trigger immediately and if it is someone walking up the IR gets that. My only other issue is that the "metal" sensor picks up convective activity, i.e. lightning even when it is many miles away. It works fine buried next to the driveway. I would not bury it under the drive unless it was in PVC as, you (will) eventually have to dig it up!

I've been using MobiLinc for years on i-Phone and it works perfect on the cell network or wi-fi. The support for the product has been in line with Michel's Magic Kingdom here. Both are superior products you wont regret. aLf

Kind of on the same line... I have a Generac whole house generator. I've always been afraid of power outages and the subsequent startup and power of the Generac. I have about 40 SWL, KPL, and the ISY. It is not a big deal for me to have all the Insteon stuff on the back up, ISY is not. When the power goes out, the generator stays off for about five minutes, then starts up and supplies a dozen or so Insteon items and some other old switches, the fridge, furnace, etc. Is there any harm in a generator like this to Insteon (or the ISY if I moved it to the generator power)? On the same note, what about Panasonic Network cameras? Thanks, aLf

Can this Davis product be used without other equipment? i.e. somehow get the data into my ISY. That is without a major money investment...

Is there an inexpensive wireless temp. probe. i.e., that could be put under my dock 80' from the house to record the lake temp. Ideally it would have a digital radout like my wireless outdoor thermometer. I could put it on the counter and read with my webcam. Thanks, aLf