aLf

Nathan: Welcome. I won't try to explain the linking functions, others here with WAY MORE experience and will chime in I'm sure. I will though make some comments on your bullets... 1) ISY-26 served me well for years. In my small (35 device) setup it worked very well. I upgraded mainly for the network module (so I could interact via the net to cameras and other things. UDI will probably cut back on support via firmware I'm sure at some time. 2) The old PLM's powered through the ethernet cable, the new version that I just installed does not power my 99, it is again powered through its own wall plug. I have had much better performance (and reliability) from the new PLM. My memory is short, but I believe the 26 never was powered through a PLM 3) If NTP is not working I would suggest that you visit the WIKI and double-check your router settings and the IP assignment within your 26. It sounds like your not on the net. (Can you access ISY remotely?) Good luck, this device has made my system what Smarthome always wanted Insteon to be. aLf

Mark: I actually bought the MobiLiinc app and it works perfect for my needs. To date there has been no problems. aLf

JK: Do you have just the latest backup, or do you have the history of backups? Maybe try the second to last and see how that goes (last one corrupt?). I can't answer this, but are backups from previous version able to backup to the latest firmware? i.e., a backup from 2.7.5...... restored to 2.7.15.... (Michel)? aLf

JK: Are you logging in via the 192 or the https: address? Try logging in via the 192 address (as you probably are with MobiLinc). If you get in via that, do your updates and then get back to the forum as to your "INTERNET" settings. My guess is that something on the net side is mis-configured. aLf

Man it's a couple years old and I make it sound like it's pre-historic! I've got my original ISY 26. I know that it has some limitations. I thought maybe we could get a thread going on useful ways to utilize it and make it feel worthy again---with or without Insteon or X10 products on the network or in the house. Has anyone found a good use for it? aLf

Maybe a dumb question, but how do you run an X10 only device, i.e., Smarthome X10 dimmer or X10 appliance sw. from ISY. aLf

Question One... Can a scene, i.e., (two KPL Buttons & an APL) be included somehow in an "ALL OFF" program? Currnetly I have all Insteon Sw's turn off every hour in an ALL OFF scene when away. I have the APL included, but the two KPL Buttons stay on (if they were on). How can I include them for turn off in that scene? Second question... If the ALL OFF scene is on (everything off), then I come home and tell ISY I'm home. I have a couple scenes which run when I'm home that do not run if after the scheduled time. Example, gate outlets should be ON @ 0700 if HOME. Lets say I get home at 0830 and tell ISY I'm home. The gate outlets stay off until the next day at 0700. How do I work around this? aLf

Mark: Ditto on the hassle. Could you post for the rest of us the link to the email. I've had some issues and would like to follow up as well. aLf

mvgossman: I use Panasonic cameras on my router/network that also includes ISY 99. I have models BB-HCM531, 581, 735, 511, 110. They all work flawless with Insteon/ISY. I did have to buy a bit better router (went with DrayTek) and use a Linksys switch for added Ethernet ports. I use (thanks to Burak and Michel) a code through the Network Module that runs some basic camera functions from Insteon switch status. I have had no issues with their living together in the network. Panasonic has a bunch of different cameras available. Feel free to PM me and I'll give you as much info as I can. Here is a link to Panasonics webpage that will get you started: http://netcamdealer.com/ Check out specifically the "resources" section. You'll certainly want indoor and outdoor models. Here is a great place to buy them: http://www.securityideas.com/pantineca.html Ask for Brian. He is VERY knowledgeable. Again, I'll be happy to help in any way I can. aLf

Ober: The "AWAY" folder is simple. Within it is a simple program that turns every off every hour. It allows (forces) two INL's to not come on in the periphery of my property. The "AWAY" folder is controlled by an Appliance linc which is in a scene with (2) KPL buttons. Upon leaving I turn off either KPL button which in turn extinguishes the APL=Program AWAY (True). I then use the program I stated above. And yes, you are right after the first day of being AWAY at 0700 the program went TRUE and stayed TRUE---never to send an e-mail again. I'm not sure if my methodology is the best, but because of many power outages and the fact that "sometimes" ISY does not come back on the network, it was a simple way to at least hear from ISY once a day. If anyone has a better idea or a more robust program, I'm listening. aLf

Ober: If I leave the program as it was starting this thread. If Time is 7:00:00AM And Folder 'AWAY' is True Then Send Notification to 'aLf' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') At 0700 on the very first day (after I make the AWAY folder true). The Notification comes but the program will never run again. I then changed it to: If Time is From 7:00:00AM To 7:01:00AM And Folder 'AWAY' is True Then Send Notification to 'aLf' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Then the programs runs every day as it should. aLf

oberkc: Your assessments are correct, except. The way I had it, the Program Status as you said goes True, an email is sent. However it only happens on the first day, then the status of the program stays True until I come home and change the status of the Home/Away folders. Because of this I only recieve 1 email (first day) and no other "updtaes" while away. I have tried Tim's way and it does indeed fix the problem. As you stated it becomes False at 0701 and remains that way until next day at 0700. I have read somewhere on these threads that one should always do "from-to's" on programs and I guess this is another example. Thanks Tim & oberkc aLf

I have a simple program which I wanted to recieve an e-mail daily at 0700 showing that ISY was alive, doing well and was where I left it! If Time is 7:00:00AM And Folder 'AWAY' is True Then Send Notification to 'aLf' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This works well, except that it turns the status to "TRUE" and stays true forever (unless I take the AWAY, away). How can I get ISY to go "TRUE" on day 1 at 0700, then go back "FALSE" until the next day at 0700. I recently had a communication problem with ISY not being available for log-in until I came back home to re-boot it. It (appeared) to be running its programs normally, but this simple program would allow me insurance that ISY indeed was OK and at least operating programs in light that id didn't seem to want to answer the network phone call. Thanks, aLf

mitch236: Is there a protocol (name) to look for in the router for setting up access only from certain mac's? I only use two computers fro router/ISY maintenance and would be interested in that. mitch236 & markens: If in my case I have multiple peripherals on my network that are https possible. Question is, can you set up more than one on 443? Or do you just dream up new port numbers? Also, with password protection on the port peripheral, is one "fairly" safe to hacking? Enough work to find the URL (IP), then figure out the password... Lastly, my router (Draytek) has an option in the setup pages, under management, that allows for http, https, telnet, etc. access. I checked only the box for https and then tried to log in using the http (not https) URL:Port and got the password page. Any ideas there? Thanks ahead for all the input. aLf

Hi. Just curious among those out there that are as anal about security as me. Most items, ISY, modem, router, security, etc. are shipped with "default" http & https ports as 80 & 443 respectively. Is there any reason to EVER use these ports? Why, when every person out there knows that for instance, a router is on 443 could hack in. Granted they would need the password, but if you set up the item on another port it would make it that much harder to find. To have access to all from the net, one has to have only one using 443 any way. I thought about using the VPN to access my local network, then go to each item, but the VPN is slow. That said also, if for some reason the VPN went down you couldn't manage the router, i.e., reboot from away! Any ideas on this or other security insurance policy's is much appreciated. aLf

I've had iPhone for a couple years and friends have shared thier Droid. It is quite nice. Will it push iPhone aside is questionable. I use MobiLinc and love it. I have toyed with the idea of switching to Droid only because of the Skype usage. It interacts superb with Skype and GV. I would suggest that you hook up with Wes @ MobiLinc. I would think that his work on iPhone and your input would work to make a (multi-app). I know Wes is looking at camera integration--which is very much a must for me. Good luck whatever direction you go. If I go to Droid, I'll see you there. aLf

Michel: Sorry I'll try better! "Also added the new INL to a scene controlled by a RML button. Added it and all seemed well. BUT! an unrelated button to that which controls a SWL and KPL button will not trigger the scene when clicked (light stays off). If I press and hold the RML button the light will slowly turn on. What have I done wrong here?" I never use the RML often. I thought it was working right before. As you know there are six buttons. My "B" button controls kitchen lights only (SWL). Simple On or Off. Right now if you click the button, nothing happens. If I hold the button it will fade on. Again if I click (or double click) nothing will happen. Hold the button to Off and it will fade to off. All other buttons control various SWL's or Scenes. They all work as they should. Hope that helps. Tim

Just installed an InlineLinc. Have it controlled by a SWL. I have the SWL set as CONTROLLER, the INL as RESPONDER. Works as advertised until I turn the SWL off from within ISY. The SWL goes off but the INL stays on! Is that normal, or did I do something wrong? Also added the new INL to a scene controlled by a RML button. Added it and all seemed well. BUT! an unrelated button to that which controls a SWL and KPL button will not trigger the scene when clicked (light stays off). If I press and hold the RML button the light will slowly turn on. What have I done wrong here? Thanks, aLf

IndyMike: Thank you so much for the thoughful (and very informative) answer(s). Do you work for UDI or SH? I wish I knew 10% of what you do with this stuff. Actually I wish you lived next door, I'd be bugging you for info all the time. Again thanks. This landscape layout is in my vacation home and is used VERY sparingly. My guess is tha the switches and transformer will outlive me. Regards, aLf

Thanks Mike. aLf

Indy: I am using a 500W transformer, 120/12V. I have two channels on the output, 250W each. One side has 115W, the second has 140W. The transformer will be plgged into an otlet that (only) handles the transformer. The outlet is supplied by an RelayLinve V2.5. Am I OK? Any ideas on the scene/program? Thanks, aLf

Hey Guys! I decided that the best way to skin this cat is to just link the new In-Line Linc with the original SWL that controls the first transformer. Due to load exceedence on the first SWL circuit in the house, I have to run another new circuit to the new In-Line Linc (which controls only the new transformer). I have two options, 1) just link the two. 2) Make a program in ISY that turns the In-Line Linc on when the SWL goes on. There are benefits to both ways. Option 1 will just work, but in winter when the transformer is not used will still turn on when the SWL goes on (SWL does have winter use, In-Line Linc only runs in summer). Option 2 can be setup for the winter/summer schedule. I have security concerns with all Insteon and have everything turned off hourly when I'm not home. What do you guys think is the best way to handle this. Keep in mind that any time SWL is on, I want In-Line Linc on as well, just not in winter nad never should come on when my "AWAY" or (all off) is running. Thanks, aLf

Dinboise: There isn't a person on this site that hasn't gone through what you posted at some time in their past. I too didn't know the difference between an internal or an external network. There are volumes of information available describing what you just accomplished (and you described it very well I may add). That said, I agree with you that there is no substitute for a good teacher. I have found many "tech service buddies" on this Forum who are ALWAYS willing to not only help but help me learn. And what really is nice is that they NEVER make you feel inferior or dumb when you ask. The professionalism and caring on this Forum starts at management level (Michel) and has populated down through ranks like you and I. I still only know a little bit of ISY and Insteon, but I learn every day. Since my struggle with your exact problem and resolution with networks, I have helped several people set up their routers and home internet. Funny isn't it? One persons help can help hundreds over time. I learned that in kindergarten, guess it still works today. aLf

The transformer manufacture shows the 500W as a Max 400W output, I would assume from that without seeing printed specs that equates to 80% or else it is legal CYA. aLf

Hey Brian: So let me get this. The wattage is the same on both sides (a perfect world 100% efficient), if I had 300Watts on the LV side would equal 300Watts on the 110 side? That said, just figure the inneficency (80% would equal 375Watts). Then take the old therory of W=V*A ( 375/110=3.4Amps) or there abouts. The SWL takes 13-15 Amps, so it's good to go? If this is right, my 1,000 Watt (fist transformer is drawing 11 amps on another SWL? I'm still unsure why there is a difference between inductive and a load like a light bulb? I assume a modern transformer (magnetic) is an iductive load. Thanks for the info. aLf