MrBill

After ssh to Polisy, become the polyglot user... sudo -u polyglot -s supply the admin user password when prompted. then cd /var/polyglot/nodeservers then ls -la will show you the directories for your existing node servers... your node server should also reside here, in its own directory.

I have this problem at my house too, and I have a workaround that's almost perfect. At my house Insteon came first, and the system was designed with lots of 6 and 8 button controllers. I very quickly grew tired and irritated with Insteon's hub and upgraded that to an ISY. It wasn't until years later that Alexa came to live here, at the same we'd been using our phones as a remote control and that was for unrelated reasons becoming something that wasn't reliable. Like you I discovered Alexa did a lot of good but at the same time my switches were always out of sync with each other. and most of the switching is built on scenes. To implement you'll need one state variable for each pair of switches and 3 programs, to summarize each: The state variable with have possible values of 0=Off, 1-100=known dim level, 101=On, dim level is unknown. Alexa.on is the first program, and allows Alexa to control the scene and dim the device as needed. (I'll cover how to setup Alexa in the portal later.) Essentially if the value of the vaiable changes and is greater then 0 or less than or equal to 100 then the program first turns on the Scene, waits one second then sets the dim level of the DEVICE that actually controls the load. (Since I have a lot of second switches or KPL buttons a naming convention that I use in my system is to append a # to the end of the name of any device that actually controls the load... it makes telling them apart easier.) Manual.on is the second program, and sets the variable to keep track of when the light was manually controlled via a switch. Basically you need an OR condition for each of the devices that can control the scene and 3 conditions each, ON, FAST ON, or FADE STOP. So in this example the light can be controlled by 3 manual switches. If we detect that the scene has been turned on manually with a switch, then we set the variable to the special value of 101, which signifies that the scene is on, but we don't know the dim level (and we really don't need to either, we just know it's NOT off). Off is the 3rd and final program in the group. It works for both control from Alexa and control from a wall switch. Again using Control, you need to catch Off and Fast Off coming from each switch OR if Alexa changed the state of the variable to 0, then we set the variable to turn the scene off and set the variable to zero. Actually one or the other condition is redundant, but the way the ISY works allows us to use one program for off instead of having both Alexa.off and Manual.off... in this case we can combine both of those programs into one and just call it off. =================================================================================== Lamp 1 - [ID 0098][Parent 00B7] Folder Conditions for 'Lamp 1' If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alexa.on - [ID 000C][Parent 0098] If $Dim.Lamp1 > 0 And $Dim.Lamp1 <= 100 Then Set 'LR Lamp 1' On '$Dim.Lamp1 %' Wait 1 second Set 'LR Lamp 1#' On '$Dim.Lamp1 %' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Manual.on - [ID 0099][Parent 0098] If '{hide}Living Room Fan Lights+ / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched On Or '{hide}Living Room Fan Lights+ / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Fast On Or '{hide}Living Room Fan Lights+ / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Fade Stop Or 'Kitchen Table Light# / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched On Or 'Kitchen Table Light# / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Fast On Or 'Kitchen Table Light# / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Fade Stop Or 'LR Remote -Deb - A-B' is switched On Or 'LR Remote -Deb - A-B' is switched Fast On Or 'LR Remote -Deb - A-B' is switched Fade Stop Then $Dim.Lamp1 = 101 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Off - [ID 0095][Parent 0098] If '{hide}Living Room Fan Lights+ / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Off Or '{hide}Living Room Fan Lights+ / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Fast Off Or 'Kitchen Table Light# / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Off Or 'Kitchen Table Light# / {hide}Lamp 1' is switched Fast Off Or 'LR Remote -Deb - A-B' is switched Off Or 'LR Remote -Deb - A-B' is switched Fast Off Or $Dim.Lamp1 is 0 Then $Dim.Lamp1 = 0 Set 'LR Lamp 1' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') To configure the portal for Alexa you will want to ADD Variable: Then on the next screen, select the state variable you created, select Scene for Alexa Category, put 0 for the "Off" value and 100 the on value. (In my example, "ON" actually means set to 60% dim... any number from 1 to 100 is works for the turn ON value.) Now first say "Alexa, Discover devices" once shes done try: "Alexa, Turn on whatever light" "Alexa, Turn off whatever light" "Alexa, set whatever light to XX" (you can say the word Percent or drop it and just say XX. You can also mix in controlling from the wall and you'll see everything stays in synch. The only annoying issue (which also has a workaround) is that if you're using Alexa and starting out from OFF and setting a DIM level of say 20%, the light comes on bright first then dims to 20%. That's because in the Alexa.on program we must turn the scene on first, which actually turns the light on, then wait 1 second, then set the actual dim level that we want. The workaround is to have a longer ramp rate. (I uses 2 seconds) which will begin to fade on the light, then 1 second later comes the dim command. As I type this it occurs to me that if the only manual devices are two 2477D dimmers like in your kitchen, then you'll want to set the DIM level for both switches so that the left LED's on the switch will display correctly. I actually don't have that situation. It's a little bit tedious to set this up for each scene you want to control via Alexa, but once it's set up it does work and doesn't require maintenance.

Wrong log. Look in the error log for clues.

Does the ISY error log provide any clues?

Use this site to get your latitude/longitude: https://www.latlong.net/convert-address-to-lat-long.html My guess is that your numbers are correct but you need to enter longitude as a negative number. Entering that longitude as a negative number will put you in Pennsylvania The pair you are using is on the other side of the world.

You can also run local nodeservers on a Raspberry Pi.

I do have a polisy for local nodeservers, however I'm not actually running that one myself, the cloud version would be better. The problem with the local version of the rachio node server is that it requires and open inbound port from the outside (specifically from the rachio cloud server). I will add that you might be able to get your motion detector to rachio need configured with IFTTT as a middleman. I have a similar need to yours that I run to turn on one particular zone, the hose connections around the pool are actually on a sprinkler zone, so to make it easy I have hidden an Insteon Hidden Door Sensor in a dry outdoor spot. Press the button in and release and it triggers an ISY program , that flashes a light outside (visual feedback), and then calls a network resource, that connects to a webhook which is part of an IFTTT applet that then turns on the sprinkler zone for a 30 minute manual run. It works great... this solution pre-dates node servers, I was going to convert it over to take IFTTT out of the loop if there is ever a cloud version of the Rachio nodeserver.

not sure about using alexa as a middle controller for this, but there is a Rachio node server for ISY, if you're running the nodeserver then yes....

I've had trouble reading those labels lately D and 0 are hard to tell apart, can't think what other letters and numbers but watch the possibilities...

Browser developers have stopped making it easy to click a link to start a Java app. It's too dangerous and most users would probably click a malicious link that installed malware etc. that is disguised as a link for something else. Not gonna name names but if the browser link says "here is your favorite type of cutey kittens, click here" could get you a cute kitten pic AND malware if java is allowed, thats why browser don't launch java anymore. That's why ISY migrated to the launcher, which is not in anyway launched via a browser.

Insteon address look like AA.BB.CC... do you see a product label with address and firmware revision? I don't have any of 2844-222 so I can't say where they stick the label, on the back or possible inside.

You can go to https://my.isy.io/index.htm then click create a new account. this will allow you to create a portal account. You can't connect your ISY to it however, without subscribing to the portal service. The portal account is however UDI's new single sign on service.

At this point in time you keep the existing ISY994, we've heard that someday the ISY functions will likely move over to Polisy. Not sure where the Z-wave controller will be when that day arrives.

It's been noted before but I'll repeat it here. Only a few nodeservers (and most of those are weather) make sense to exist as both local options and polyglot cloud versions. Most seem to be better suited to run local because the other devices exist on the local network, or on PGC because the it's making a cloud to cloud connection somewhere. It also really wasn't hard for me from a time perspective to choose Polisy over Pi. While I have a few pi's around the house doing this or that, none of them are mission critical and none are allowed outside internet access (network rules). The biggest benefit of Polisy to me is that updates are pushed out, and I don't have to do much in terms of systems administration and staying up to date on OS exploits.

It was first announced on Feb 13th.... I read about it in the forum and didn't get an email either... https://www.universal-devices.com/byebyeclimatemodule/

i was just writing a response pointing to that exact example in the wiki

Disclaimer: I don't have the ELK add on, so I could be wrong. my guess is that you want OR for your If conditions: If Elk Area 'Home' 'Arm Up State' is Armed Fully Or Elk Area 'Home' 'Armed State' is Armed Away Or Elk Area 'Home' 'Arm Up State' is not Armed with Exit Timer When using AND it means all 3 conditions must be true, OR means at least one must be true.

Might be brand specific too.... as in some brands may be specific, others may use a simple voltage. Two reasons I can see for a manufacturer to do this. 1) more specific error codes. 2) ball and chain: you can't replace it with a 3rd party product, you're stuck with OEM.

@Michel Kohanim is this not the same battery devices write bug many of us are patiently waiting for to be addressed?

How silly, now they have to stock an additional SKU for paddle color change kits, and brown and black don't appear to be available in the new items color change.

not in browser, however these instructions allow you to run the admin console and connect via the portal.

It's a quick fix... we have to wait for the west coast to wake up tho.

You do have mismatched firmware and UI versions according to your screenshot, to fix that follow the instructions here: That probably doesn't account for the problem you describe however. As for what's wrong with your programs being intermittent I would have to wonder first if you've introduced a noise maker or signal sucker. Meaning the ISY is working just fine like it always has, but the signals aren't getting from the PLM to the device. I think this because if you say they used to work, it's the most logical reason they would become intermittent. Have you changed where they PLM is plugged in? Any new not necessarily home automation related devices. my wife once bought an air ionizer at a thrift store.... that thing made so much powerline noise that nothing worked at all when it was plugged in. We also used to have a deep fryer that when plugged in would kill Insteaon signals.

there is an expired certificate this morning, hold tight, it will be a quick fix once the west coast wakes up... it's still 7:30 in that part of the world.

In my system, I use a program that turns on the barn lights inside and out when the door opens after sunset, however after a certain time they won't turn off when the door closes, they stay on until manually reset. If it's after the specific time, it also rings the back doorbell 3 times, 5 seconds apart. The gates coming into the yard will also ring the back doorbell once if opened between sunset to sunrise.