xlurkr

@Michel Kohanim That was the trick. I typed "sudo repo.util staging" and then repeated your "pkg upgrade ..." and it worked. It did not upgrade udx, which is on version 5.0.0. I hope that's correct. Also, please let me know if this repo.util command has any other side effects. I'm a total FreeBSD noob. -Tom

I get "No repositories are enabled." Context: attempting to upgrade on a Polisy. -Tom

I'm sure you meant "touted", but I agree and am in the same boat. @Michel Kohanim perhaps you could at some point let us active Polisy users know if the current exclusion is temporary or permanent. And maybe also if you are willing to let us in on the discount deal being offered to 994 users, since some of us have actually invested in more generations of your products than those who are still on 994s. -Tom

@Guy Lavoie Thanks for the tip! Will add it to my box o' tricks. -Tom

@Guy Lavoie Thanks for trying. I tried on my Polisy, too, and it didn't appear to do anything, but I didn't know how to check status. Where is this upgrade log file located? -Tom

...or if the GDO has a wired button for the wall, across its hardware switch (I've done this myself, but via Lutron, not Insteon). Either approach will probably require soldering wires to the pads on the circuit board, though. Or alligator clips if you're lucky and there are accessible leads on the button/switch (not likely these days). -Tom

Or if it doesn't happen automagically, just ask. I've done several portal rearrangements with ISYs and Policy's, and the UDI team has always been 100% accommodating. -Tom

I know we haven't solved the OP's problem yet, but I really love the lengths this community will go to help others out. Kudos @IndyMike -Tom

When the time comes to replace the battery, I'd do it as quickly as possible if I were you. -Tom

Make sure you change to this mode for the relay. I coincidentally installed my first 2450 yesterday, and it was defaulted to "momentary", with a 2 second hold time. It is part of the garage kit, where the relay is supposed to push the garage door button, so a standalone IOLinc might be configured differently, but please check and test. You change the setting with the "Options" button at the bottom of the device page in the AC. -Tom

3) This won't cost very much (money; time is separate matter) and provides boundless opportunity for more automation fun. If you're into that sort of thing. -Tom

Mitch: Thanks for this! Do you know if a totally DIY installation is possible? The Elk documentation refers to account registration and approval. Can I buy one these panels, and as a non-dealer create an alarm/automation system for my home? -Tom

I can't offer much help (I no longer have a functioning 994), but I did have a multiday blackout with Gmail last week. It seems fine now. -Tom

Did you also notice that the price/unit is wrong for the two-pack? I've noticed that, over time, there are a lot more negative reviews on product pages where the issue is old/wrong version and/or used/repackaged product - to the point where I don't buy some types of electronics from them anymore. I use B&H Photo instead (no affiliation, just a happy customer). -Tom

I will add, you can actually get that message when the Remotelinc is too close to the PLM. I used to have to step out into my courtyard to add them. Just another thing to try. -Tom

@dbwarner5 said it well. The key point is, you can only make buttons go on and off as part of a scene that gets activated, manually or programmatically. There's no way around that, and it seems to be the thing most people forget when they haven't programmed their Insteon devices in a long time. Or if you're coming from a Lutron background, where the processor always tracks the state of all devices and turns on LEDs whenever the corresponding devices are in the correct state, no matter how they got that way. If you want that kind of behavior, you have to write the logic yourself. -Tom

Thanks to this refresher, I finally hooked up my Polisy to send email and cellular text notifications via Gmail. I do need to report a variance, though. I was following the Wiki entry, but when I go to the 2-step verification part, there was no "App Passwords" at the bottom of the page to choose the ">" from. I think it's because I was creating my first one*. Anyway, I then Google searched for "create a google app password", and one of the links was for Google Help. There, I found a link for "Create and manage your app passwords" which took me directly to a screen where I could enter the app name and get a 16-character password - presumably because I had already logged in to get to the 2-step verification page. Documenting in case it helps someone someday. *because now it's there! -Tom

I've got a box of popcorn ready. I have both IRLinc devices (T&R) in storage. Never used them. Probably never will. Still, I'm dying to know how this turns out. -Tom

Not to be too harsh on UDI, but their Zigbee support is limited, too. The aforementioned FP300 sensor can be linked to ZMAtter, but few attributes show up. Full support has been reported for Aqara, Hubitat (what I'm using), and Home Assistant. I'm not sure who does have the best Zigbee support, in the way that UDI has the undisputably best Insteon support. Probably HA because of its giant and tech-savvy user base, but I personally find that platform confusing and opaque. And there's no direct manufacturer support. -Tom

@Riggins44 I think (but not 100% sure) that the Aqara hub only works with Zigbee devices from Aqara, but also works with Thread devices, probably from anyone. I don't have a hub, but I recently got one of the FP300 mmWave presence sensors. It can be set to Thread or Zigbee through their app. So I had to do a lot of reading on Aqara, and it's true that the hubs do not offer broad multivendor Zigbee support. But you might want to read up on their Thread support. They are relatively cheap, and they have a lot of models including some meant to plug into a USB hub or wall wart, and also some built into cameras. Also, check the Thread/Matter version support level. I think I also read that they are a few revisions behind, which would affect the variety of devices they can support, and their level of support. -Tom

When I started automating my home, the second thing I did (replacing a single manual dimmer with a KPL was the first) was to set up my 3-way stairwell with Insteon devices - a dimmer on the load, and two switches for the top and bottom non-load locations. It has never (and I mean never) failed to operate correctly at any of the locations or had any delay. And I could dim with the non-load switches, even they were the relay (on/off) version, which seemed like magic at the time. I have also taken maximum advantage of the built-in double tap off - the one at the bottom of the stairs turns everything off upstairs, and the one at the top turns off the downstairs and lights the way to bed. Long story, but I highly recommend you look into an Insteon conversion. The links for N-way are in the devices themselves, so there's never any processing delay, and it still works if the controller is nonresponsive. Some of this (multitap, direct links, etc.) has become possible with Z-Wave since I started automating, because that was a while ago, but I still think no one does direct device-device linking better than Insteon to this day. And if you are going to use Insteon, you MUST have UDI's controllers to set it up and control it. Nothing else comes close for ease of use and versatility. -Tom

I get that. but there are Insteon dimmers for lamps and Insteon appliance modules for pumps and freezers and etc., and I still think it is worth thinking about. But, I don't really care one way or another. I have never suffered from an all on event, nor do I have any critical items on Insteon appliance modules. -Tom

If memory serves, the all off command in X10 did not apply to appliance plugs, just to dimmers. Probably for safety reasons. Something to think about. -Tom

I can confirm that the update status on eisy-ui changes to "A reboot is required" (or something to that effect) when the update is complete. -Tom

@paulbates I'm not an electrician, but I think it's good practice to have any outdoor power cord coming from above an outlet do a 180 degree bend below the box before entering the box, so there's a low point for water to run off. Perhaps you don't have a long enough run to allow for that, but if you do, it might be wise to add it. -Tom