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Programming help


jmed999

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I've having a little trouble figuring this one out.

 

Basically, I want to run my recirculation pump based on the following...

 

If kitchen light is on run pump for 20 min then turn pump off for 30 min and repeat until kitchen lights are turned off.

 

If the guest bath light is turned on turn pump outletlinc on, when light is turned off, turn pump off.

 

If the master bath motion is on turn pump on, when the motion is off, turn pump off.

 

I also want the pump to be off when the elk is set away regardless of any lights or motions.

 

This is what I have so far...

 

Pump1

If
       (
            Status  'Bathroom Pump Motion-Sensor' is On
         Or Status  'Guest Bath Light' is On
       )
   And Elk Area 'The Home' 'Armed State' is not Armed Away

Then
       Set 'Pump Power' On
       Wait  10 seconds
       Set 'Pump Power' on

Else
       Set 'Pump Power' Off
       Wait  10 seconds
       Set 'Pump Power' Off

 

The 2 "on" commands in the "then" and the 2 "off" commands in the "else" just guarantees the pump does what I need it to. It's basically insurance against bad comm issues which are very rare but can happen.

 

Pump2

 

If
       Status  'Kitchen Lights' is not Off
   And Elk Area 'The Home' 'Armed State' is not Armed Away
   And Program 'Pump1' is False

Then
       Run Program 'Pump3' (Then Path)

Else
       Run Program 'Pump3' (Else Path)

 

Pump3

 

If
  - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition')

Then
       Set 'Pump Power' On
       Wait  20 minutes 
       Set 'Pump Power' Off
       Wait  30 minutes 
       Run Program 'Pump3' (Then Path)

Else
       Set 'Pump Power' Off

 

The kitchen light gets left on a lot hence toggling the pump off after 20 minutes.

 

I want to make sure when the master bath motion is on and the kitchen light is on then the master bath motion turns off the pump continues to stay on since the kitchen light is on. This set of programs doesn't seem to work very well ie. when Pump1 is false and pump2 is true the pump turns off. Also, when pump2 is true and pump1 runs true the pump turns off because of pump2's else command. And if someone is in the master bath room and the motion is on and the kitchen light is turned off the pump is also turned off even though pump1 is running true.

 

I was hoping you guys could help me with a new set of programs that would work better.

 

Thanks in advance for the help! 8)

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This isn't really going to work out very well. You have 3 different things all controlling the same thing and doing so differently. They will compete with each other.

 

First thing, put all the programs in a folder and set the folder condition such that when the alarm is armed away the entire folder is inactive. That takes care of that.

 

Otherwise, I would suggest simply putting all of your conditions in a single if folder and having the pump turn on for a couple minutes (however long it takes to warm up the pipes) when any of those things is activated. Split that into 2 programs and have the second program disable the first "if" program for something like 15 minutes. You only need the circ pump to turn on at first. Once people are using the water, you don't need the circ pump. And, once the water gets circulated, it stays warm in the pipes for a while even if no one is using it.

 

So

 

IF

status guest bath light is on

or

master bath motion is turned on

or

status kitchen light is on

Then

call program 2 then clause

 

Program 2

If

- -

Then

disable program 1

turn pump on

wait 2 minutes

turn pump off

wait 15 minutes

enable program 1

run if clause program 1

 

This setup should keep the pipes warm if the lights are on in the kitchen, guest bath, or if motion is detected in the master.

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Great ideas about the pump, now this is my next project. Is it only necessary to split the programs because of the motion sensor. Otherwise couldn't it be just one program. Else would be to turn the pump off. If all of the lights are off, the program is false and the pump turns off.

Or is it an issue of getting the then of program 2 to repeat.

I also have an elk valve. If the valve is off, then it is unlikely that a light would be on, so the pump would stay off. Unless you are home and a leak sensor triggers the valve.

Thanks,

Eric

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This isn't really going to work out very well. You have 3 different things all controlling the same thing and doing so differently. They will compete with each other.

 

First thing, put all the programs in a folder and set the folder condition such that when the alarm is armed away the entire folder is inactive. That takes care of that.

 

Otherwise, I would suggest simply putting all of your conditions in a single if folder and having the pump turn on for a couple minutes (however long it takes to warm up the pipes) when any of those things is activated. Split that into 2 programs and have the second program disable the first "if" program for something like 15 minutes. You only need the circ pump to turn on at first. Once people are using the water, you don't need the circ pump. And, once the water gets circulated, it stays warm in the pipes for a while even if no one is using it.

 

So

 

IF

status guest bath light is on

or

master bath motion is turned on

or

status kitchen light is on

Then

call program 2 then clause

 

Program 2

If

- -

Then

disable program 1

turn pump on

wait 2 minutes

turn pump off

wait 15 minutes

enable program 1

run if clause program 1

 

This setup should keep the pipes warm if the lights are on in the kitchen, guest bath, or if motion is detected in the master.

 

 

Thanks! If I put the programs in a folder and set the folder condition to make the folder inactive if the Elk is armed away couldn't that potentially leave the pump on? Lets say pump1 is running the "then" status and the alarm is armed. The program would become inactive leaving the pump running, right?

 

I like your program. Maybe I could add the alarm condition to your program as an "is not armed away".

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Thanks! If I put the programs in a folder and set the folder condition to make the folder inactive if the Elk is armed away couldn't that potentially leave the pump on? Lets say pump1 is running the "then" status and the alarm is armed. The program would become inactive leaving the pump running, right?

 

I like your program. Maybe I could add the alarm condition to your program as an "is not armed away".

The locked on condition is always a problem contingency with disabling programs. Also, if I am using a motion sensor to turn on lights I like to put a delay in the non-priority program in an attempt to keep the priority lights response program faster. I am not sure how valid this is but it makes sense to me.

 

Adding the Elk status into the conditions shouldn't be needed as the short pump cycle could just time off

or

the else could be used for cleanup from any condition to terminate the in progress cycle immediately. This would also prevent your burglars from getting any preheated water convenience. :D

 

IF

(

status guest bath light is on

or

master bath motion is turned on

or

status kitchen light is on

)

And

Elk armed away is false

 

Then

wait 2 seconds

repeat 4 times

. turn pump on

. wait 2 minutes

. turn pump off

. wait 15 minutes

 

Else

turn pump off

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Thanks! If I put the programs in a folder and set the folder condition to make the folder inactive if the Elk is armed away couldn't that potentially leave the pump on? Lets say pump1 is running the "then" status and the alarm is armed. The program would become inactive leaving the pump running, right?

 

I like your program. Maybe I could add the alarm condition to your program as an "is not armed away".

The locked on condition is always a problem contingency with disabling programs. Also, if I am using a motion sensor to turn on lights I like to put a delay in the non-priority program in an attempt to keep the priority lights response program faster. I am not sure how valid this is but it makes sense to me.

 

Adding the Elk status into the conditions shouldn't be needed as the short pump cycle could just time off

or

the else could be used for cleanup from any condition to terminate the in progress cycle immediately. This would also prevent your burglars from getting any preheated water convenience. :D

 

IF

(

status guest bath light is on

or

master bath motion is turned on

or

status kitchen light is on

)

And

Elk armed away is false

 

Then

wait 2 seconds

repeat 4 times

. turn pump on

. wait 2 minutes

. turn pump off

. wait 15 minutes

 

Else

turn pump off

 

 

The above won't work because of re-triggers. You have to separate the if/then and disable the if program while the "then" program is running.

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Here is a better way:

 

IF
status guest bath light is on
or
master bath motion is turned on
or
status kitchen light is on
Then
call program 2 if clause

Program 2
If
Elk is not armed away
Then
disable program 1
turn pump on
wait 2 minutes
turn pump off
wait 15 minutes
enable program 1
run if clause program 1

 

No need for a folder. Program 2 needs to be disabled as well so that it only runs when called from program 1

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Sorry for being late to the party.

 

Like apostolakisl, my mind first went to folders, but did not like the possibility of getting stuck on if the timing was not perfect. Neither do I like programs to solve a structural issue...fix the issue.

 

Instead, I though more like breaking tasks among two programs a little differently. First program is to determine whether to turn the pump ON or OFF (run second program or not). Second program determines whether to include a cycle, or continuous. Try:

 

If

(

status bath is on

or status kitchen is on

or status motion sensor is on

)

and elk is not armed

then

run pump program (if path)

else

turn off pump

 

Pump program (must be disabled)

if

bath is on

or motion is on

then

turn on pump

else

repeat

turn on pump

wait 20 minutes

turn off pump

wait 20 minutes

 

I will leave it to you to figure out exact syntax, but I hope the concept is clear.

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Sorry for being late to the party.

 

Like apostolakisl, my mind first went to folders, but did not like the possibility of getting stuck on if the timing was not perfect. Neither do I like programs to solve a structural issue...fix the issue.

 

Instead, I though more like breaking tasks among two programs a little differently. First program is to determine whether to turn the pump ON or OFF (run second program or not). Second program determines whether to include a cycle, or continuous. Try:

 

If

(

status bath is on

or status kitchen is on

or status motion sensor is on

)

and elk is not armed

then

run pump program (if path)

else

turn off pump

 

Pump program (must be disabled)

if

bath is on

or motion is on

then

turn on pump

else

repeat

turn on pump

wait 20 minutes

turn off pump

wait 20 minutes

 

I will leave it to you to figure out exact syntax, but I hope the concept is clear.

 

The thing is, the logic of running the pumps is wrong (not your logic, I know). There is no reason to run the pumps for 20 minutes. As soon as the pipes get warm, which probably is going to take a minute or so depending on the gpm and the number of gallons in the pipes, there is no reason to keep running the pumps. Presumably, if someone goes into the bathroom, they are going to start using the water in less time than it takes for the pipes to cool off. And once you start using the water, there is no reason for the pump to run at all, the pipes will stay warm.

 

The program I wrote and then slightly modified should work quite nicely. You might need to adjust the on time and off time a little bit depending on the details of how many gallons in the pipes and the pump gpm, and how quickly the pipes cool based on where they run and how well insulated they are.

 

the overall jist of my programs is

1) When someone enters a room where they might use water, the pipes get flushed of cold water and warm water replaces it, ready to be used.

2) If after a period of time, that the pipes might have cooled, and someone is still in the room, the pump runs again to freshen up the hot water. Of course this is only necessary if they weren't using the hot water, since if they were using it, the pipes would stay warm on their own. But there is no way to detect that aside from putting a thermometer on the pipes.

 

If you really wanted to do this right, you would put a thermometer on the pipes in each of those 3 rooms and only run the pumps if a person is in the room and the pipes are cold.

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The thing is, the logic of running the pumps is wrong (not your logic, I know). There is no reason to run the pumps for 20 minutes.

 

Perhaps. You may be correct. Unfortunately, I am not in a position to understand the needs or lifestyle of jmed999 and his family. I will leave it to him to decide if your suggestion has merit for his use.

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I installed a unique hot water recirculation line that has both a tankless water heater and an electric heater with a 4 gal tank.

 

See diagram here: http://www.houseneeds.com/learning-center/tankless-water-heaters-how-to/ariston-electric-mini-tank-recirculation

 

The purpose of the small electric heater is to keep the recirc line warm when the pump is on. The problem I'm having is the pump cost about $1.32 per month to run 24/7 but the electric heater would cost $45 per month if ran 24/7. Now I'm not planning to run them 24/7 but my focus is on the heater and the timing and temp of the water in the heater in addition to the temp of the water in the recirc line.

 

Also, my recirc line/loop has ~2.5 gal of water in it at all times. When the pump turns on the cold line is filled with hot water and the electric heater is filled with cold water that was in the recirc line. If the water in the bathroom is turned on, that colder slug of water will then exit the electric heater and go into the recirc line while the electric heater is then filled with hot water from the tankless heater.

 

With this said, I need my program to minimize the potential cold water slug that could get into the recirc line before it's heated into the electric heater. So the pump needs to run for enough time to get all the water in the line and the electric heater hot before the person turns the water on. This will be difficult when someone enters the bathroom as they may use the hot water within seconds.

 

I have an auqastat I may install so that even if the pump is on it will turn off when the insulated PEX reaches a certain temp. The problem with that is if a program turns the power to the pump off after the stat turns it off then the pump wont turn on when the stat tells it too since the program has turned the power off. So that could also be a conflict.

 

The bottom line is I want hot water when someone turns the hot water on or installing the system will be a waste of time. I also don't want to spend ~$50 per month for instant hot water. I didn't realize the electric heater would use so much power or I would have never installed it. The other thing is I could turn the heater off and leave the pump on if needed. I have a zwave outlet module for each. This is how I know how many kWh each is using.

 

Thanks for reading this and taking this into consideration. What program changes would you make knowing these details?

 

Thanks for the help and I hope more will chime in :mrgreen:

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If you aren't going to run the recirc pump 24/7 (or at least a lot of the time), you really don't need the electric tank at all. The only reason the plumbers would put that electric tank in there is to prevent the tankless from constantly going on/off and short cycling it to death with a constantly running recirc pump.

 

If you use the program I wrote and take the electric tank out of the question, you should get a very reasonable result.

 

With 2.5 gallons in your recirc system, a 5gpm pump should clear the lines in 30 seconds. Add to that a few seconds to kick up the heat on the on-demand tank and other imponderables. . . so maybe run the pump for 60 seconds. Then let it sit for however long the pipes stay relatively hot. Then let it re-eval for occupants in the water usage rooms and kick it on again if need be.

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If you aren't going to run the recirc pump 24/7 (or at least a lot of the time), you really don't need the electric tank at all. The only reason the plumbers would put that electric tank in there is to prevent the tankless from constantly going on/off and short cycling it to death with a constantly running recirc pump.

 

If you use the program I wrote and take the electric tank out of the question, you should get a very reasonable result.

 

With 2.5 gallons in your recirc system, a 5gpm pump should clear the lines in 30 seconds. Add to that a few seconds to kick up the heat on the on-demand tank and other imponderables. . . so maybe run the pump for 60 seconds. Then let it sit for however long the pipes stay relatively hot. Then let it re-eval for occupants in the water usage rooms and kick it on again if need be.

 

Thanks for all the input. My goal is to get the recirc line hot for about 4-6 hours per day. At that amount I think the electric heater is justified. My pump is 2 GPM. Notice in the schematic the instructions call for a timer. So this setup isn't intended only for 24/7 use but I get your point. I think there's a sweet spot somewhere as far as the amount if time run per day and the benefit of not taxing the hell out of the tankless heater.

 

Maybe I could run the pump and electric heater when a light or motion is turned on, then have the heater turn off after about a minute until the light or motion is turned off. At that point I could have the electric heater turn back on and the pump turn off. The heater doesn't cost much unless there's water being pumped through it due to the heat loss in the pex. After a minute or so the water would be getting hot from the tankless heater. Actually, that wouldn't work because my return line goes back to the electric heater and not the tankless heater. Shoot, I thought I was on to something there.

 

The time for the water in the recirc line to cool will differ drastically from the summer to the winter. I'm afraid the winter months will be vary costly. I'd like to get it down to $10-$15 per month. Your program should help do that!

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You should look at it like this.

 

1) You run a recirc pump and keep your lines hot continuously for extended stretches without specific demand.

2) You run a recirc pump on demand

 

Situation 1)

Advantages. Hot water is damn near instantly at the faucet while it is running and you never wast water/time waiting

Disadvantage. You paid for a holding tank and you pay extra energy costs as you lose heat into the house . .. only a problem if you are cooling your house . . . during months when the furnace is on it just means the hot water tank is heating the house instead of the furnace.

 

Situation 2)

Advantage. No need for a holding tank. Quick hot water but not instant, unless you have a way to trigger the system a minute or so before you need it (ie bathroom light turns on, you go pee, then need hot water). Uses less energy, except if you are regularly triggering the system when you don't actually need hot water. (ie go into the kitchen to get a beer).

Disadvantage. Hot water is not instant if you flip on the light and go straight to the faucet.

 

You seem to be trying to implement situation 2 controls into a setup designed for situation 1. I think you need to go with one or the other as a hybrid isn't likely to work well.

 

Personally, I would go with a higher gpm pump and scrap the electric tank and go with situation 2. You need to look at the on-demand heaters spec sheet temp rise at the pumps gpm, and your typical incoming water temp to figure out the highest gpm you can run and still have the water get hot.

 

EDIT:

Acutally, you need to look at temp rise versus the temp of your house, not incoming water temp. The rercirc pump will be pumping water from the pipes at house temp back into the heater, not incoming water. So if your tankless can do 50 degrees of rise at 5gpm, that will give you 120 degree water . . .perfect.

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You should look at it like this.

 

1) You run a recirc pump and keep your lines hot continuously for extended stretches without specific demand.

2) You run a recirc pump on demand

 

Situation 1)

Advantages. Hot water is damn near instantly at the faucet while it is running and you never wast water/time waiting

Disadvantage. You paid for a holding tank and you pay extra energy costs as you lose heat into the house . .. only a problem if you are cooling your house . . . during months when the furnace is on it just means the hot water tank is heating the house instead of the furnace.

 

Situation 2)

Advantage. No need for a holding tank. Quick hot water but not instant, unless you have a way to trigger the system a minute or so before you need it (ie bathroom light turns on, you go pee, then need hot water). Uses less energy, except if you are regularly triggering the system when you don't actually need hot water. (ie go into the kitchen to get a beer).

Disadvantage. Hot water is not instant if you flip on the light and go straight to the faucet.

 

You seem to be trying to implement situation 2 controls into a setup designed for situation 1. I think you need to go with one or the other as a hybrid isn't likely to work well.

 

Personally, I would go with a higher gpm pump and scrap the electric tank and go with situation 2. You need to look at the on-demand heaters spec sheet temp rise at the pumps gpm, and your typical incoming water temp to figure out the highest gpm you can run and still have the water get hot.

 

EDIT:

Acutally, you need to look at temp rise versus the temp of your house, not incoming water temp. The rercirc pump will be pumping water from the pipes at house temp back into the heater, not incoming water. So if your tankless can do 50 degrees of rise at 5gpm, that will give you 120 degree water . . .perfect.

 

My water lines are all under the house...in the crawlspace. So I'm not losing heat into the house while cooling the house. I want instant hot water and I'm willing to run it more than required to get that result but I don't want to run it 24/7. Good points in your posts.

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After installing two tankless water heaters in my house I am not impressed with them for operation.

 

I am surprised to see somebody attempting a circ pump with a tankless heater. I believe the holding tank is a necessity. I have seen domestic schemes to do this but the tankless has a separate loop and logic built-in for it to work properly.

 

After the hot water makes the loop the tankless will shut off as the BTU demand will be lower than it's lowest capability burner (assuming NG or LPG). You will still get a cold water sandwich during initial usage when the cold incoming water first gets drawn through the heater. This typically happens just after getting my eyes full of shampoo when I can't see how far I can jump to the side of the shower to avoid the cold water. :)

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After installing two tankless water heaters in my house I am not impressed with them for operation.

 

I am surprised to see somebody attempting a circ pump with a tankless heater. I believe the holding tank is a necessity. I have seen domestic schemes to do this but the tankless has a separate loop and logic built-in for it to work properly.

 

After the hot water makes the loop the tankless will shut off as the BTU demand will be lower than it's lowest capability burner (assuming NG or LPG). You will still get a cold water sandwich during initial usage when the cold incoming water first gets drawn through the heater. This typically happens just after getting my eyes full of shampoo when I can't see how far I can jump to the side of the shower to avoid the cold water. :)

 

I believe he has a separate loop from the sounds of it. The logic you refer to is what we are trying to create here. I am opposed to putting a tank on a tankless system. . . all you have done is spend a whole bunch of money to get what amounts to a regular tank heater (all be it with very high btu). To really do the logic correctly you need to monitor the temp in the water line and use that to determine when it would be appropriate to turn the recirc pump back on, as opposed to just waiting a fixed amount of time.

 

I agree with you that tankless have issues that many people like to overlook. I have two of them in my house and wish I had done differently. But unlike you, I have never had the "sandwich" problem. Perhaps it is the brand of heater or the fact that I am in a climate where incoming water is rarely colder than 60. But I never get water that goes hot/cold/hot or even hot/cool/hot no matter what the timing is on the start/stop/start of using water. I honestly don't know how it does it but I swear to you in 5 years I have never experienced it.

 

If I were to do it again, I would put in a large holding tank and heat pump heaters with a recirc pump that runs whenever the alarm is not armed away. Maybe a 200 gallon holding tank since heat pump units can't recover quickly. The heat pump would pump cold air into my attic while heating the water which is a good thing where I live and with my spray foam insulated attic.

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Sorry for being late to the party.

 

Like apostolakisl, my mind first went to folders, but did not like the possibility of getting stuck on if the timing was not perfect. Neither do I like programs to solve a structural issue...fix the issue.

 

Instead, I though more like breaking tasks among two programs a little differently. First program is to determine whether to turn the pump ON or OFF (run second program or not). Second program determines whether to include a cycle, or continuous. Try:

 

If

(

status bath is on

or status kitchen is on

or status motion sensor is on

)

and elk is not armed

then

run pump program (if path)

else

turn off pump

 

Pump program (must be disabled)

if

bath is on

or motion is on

then

turn on pump

else

repeat

turn on pump

wait 20 minutes

turn off pump

wait 20 minutes

 

I will leave it to you to figure out exact syntax, but I hope the concept is clear.

 

I ended up going with a program like this but altered the wait times a little. Thanks for the help!

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Perhaps, then, you could simply identify key times throughout the day (such as mornings or evenings) and run it continuously, then based on other conditions the rest of the day.

 

I think this would be the best solution. So lets say I wanted to run the pump continuously, or better yet 20 min on and 20 min off, from 5 am to 6 am M-F. How would the program work then avoiding conflicts? Could I just add that to the "if" statement of your 1st program? It would then run the "else" of your 2nd program right?

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Sorry for being late to the party.

 

Like apostolakisl, my mind first went to folders, but did not like the possibility of getting stuck on if the timing was not perfect. Neither do I like programs to solve a structural issue...fix the issue.

 

Instead, I though more like breaking tasks among two programs a little differently. First program is to determine whether to turn the pump ON or OFF (run second program or not). Second program determines whether to include a cycle, or continuous. Try:

 

If

(

status bath is on

or status kitchen is on

or status motion sensor is on

)

and elk is not armed

then

run pump program (if path)

else

turn off pump

 

Pump program (must be disabled)

if

bath is on

or motion is on

then

turn on pump

else

repeat

turn on pump

wait 20 minutes

turn off pump

wait 20 minutes

 

I will leave it to you to figure out exact syntax, but I hope the concept is clear.

 

I ended up going with a program like this but altered the wait times a little. Thanks for the help!

 

What is going to stop the repeat? Once it gets going in the repeat, if the first program triggers false, there is nothing to stop it until the first program becomes true. While your first program will shut the pump off when all the lights are turned off, this repeat will turn it back on again within 40 minutes.

 

For example, the else clause is running in program 2, someone turns the light off. The first program turns false, it runs the else and turns the pump off. But the else clause in program 2 is still running. If at that point you left he house on vacation, your else clause repeat would never stop.

 

The 20 minutes on 20 minutes off still makes no sense from the standpoint of the goal of having hot water at the faucet. You should either have it or not, not be in some random state where you might have warm water in the kitchen or you might not depending on the random nature of when you turn the faucet on.

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What is going to stop the repeat? Once it gets going in the repeat, if the first program triggers false, there is nothing to stop it until the first program becomes true.

 

Thank you for catching this. I had to look it up at the time, but forgot to include it.

 

To the first program ELSE path, add "stop pump program"

 

Hopefully, that will solve the problem you correctly identified.

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think this would be the best solution. So lets say I wanted to run the pump continuously, or better yet 20 min on and 20 min off, from 5 am to 6 am M-F. How would the program work then avoiding conflicts?

 

This program would be much simpler. If all you want is to cycle your pump/heater every 20 minutes between 5am and 6am, try:

 

if

time is from 0500

to 0600 (same day)

and elk is not armed

then

repeat

turn on pump

wait 20 minutes

turn off pump

wait 20 minutes

else

turn off pump

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Stepping back and thinking about the whole logic...

 

Why consider the armed away status at all? Are we afraid we will prewarm hot water taps for burglars? :D

 

Simplify by triggering the pump from by occupancy detectors already in place. Turn off in 2-5 minutes.

 

If the pump timers get retriggered repeatedly...so what? As long as we are in the bathroom we want the water hot and ready anyway. It still will a lot cheaper than running 6 am - 10 pm and will trigger in the middle of the night if visiting the bathroom for a hand wash.

 

 

If

status bath is on

or status kitchen is on

or status motion sensor is on

 

then

turn pump on

wait 3 minutes

turn pump off

 

else

-

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