fryfrog Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Just got one of the new Aeotec MultiSensor 6's. Added it, looks like I'm getting "status", temperature, humidity, uv light, luminance, battery level, motion, tamper and "binary" sensor. It kind of seems like it might just work. Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:03 PM : Listening for Z-Wave devices to add to the network Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:08 PM : Z-Wave device detected, retrieving info 2 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:08 PM : Z-Wave device detected, retrieving info 3 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:16 PM : Z-Wave device detected, retrieving info 5 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:16 PM : Adding Z-Wave devices stopped Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:17 PM : Device 14 of type 4.33.1 included into Z-Wave network Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:17 PM : Adding ISY node(s) for new Z-Wave device 14 type 4.33.1 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:17 PM : [ZWAVE-ADD-NODE ] Add device: mfg 0086.0102.0064, basic=0x04 gen=0x21 spec=0x01 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:17 PM : Adding associations for new Z-Wave device 14 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:18 PM : Adding alarm nodes for new Z-Wave device 14 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:18 PM : Setting ISY as wakeup target for new Z-Wave device 14 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:19 PM : [ZWAVE-INIT 14] Assigning Wakeup to ISY (id=1), Interval 3600 seconds Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:31 PM : [ZWAVE-ADD-1 ] ZW014_155 : X0E7105000000FF07080000 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:31 PM : [ZWAVE-ADD-2 ] ZW014_155 : 0E/155/83/78/ST/100 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ZWAVE-ADD-1 ] ZW014_104 : X0E3003FF Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ZWAVE-ADD-2 ] ZW014_104 : 0E/104/110/78/ST/100 Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_1] ST 100 (uom=51 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_1] DON 100 (uom=51 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_155] ST 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_155] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_155] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_155] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_155] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_155] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_155] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_1] BATLVL 100 (uom=51 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_104] ST 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_104] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_104] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_104] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_1] CLITEMP 8040 (uom=17 prec=2) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_1] CLIHUM 62 (uom=22 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_1] LUMIN 3700 (uom=36 prec=2) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_104] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:39 PM : [ ZW014_104] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:50 PM : [ ZW014_1] UV 0 (uom=71 prec=2) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:51 PM : [ ZW014_104] DON 100 (uom=78 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:52 PM : [ ZW014_1] CLITEMP 8060 (uom=17 prec=2) Thu 06/25/2015 04:51:56 PM : [ ZW014_1] CLIHUM 61 (uom=22 prec=0) Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] ---------------------------------------------- Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] ZW014_1 uid=14 type=4.33.1 mid=134 tid=258 pid=100 model=0 Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x5E V0 ZWAVEPLUS_INFO Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x86 V0 VERSION Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x72 V2 MANUFACTURER_SPECIFIC Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x59 V0 ASSOCIATION_GRP_INFO Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x85 V2 ASSOCIATION Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x73 V0 POWERLEVEL Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x71 V3 NOTIFICATION Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x84 V2 WAKE_UP Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x80 V0 BATTERY Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x30 V0 SENSOR_BINARY Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x31 V5 SENSOR_MULTILEVEL Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x70 V1 CONFIGURATION Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x7A V2 FIRMWARE_UPDATE_MD Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - xEF V0 MARK Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - x5A V0 DEVICE_RESET_LOCALLY Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] sensorType= 1 scaleMask= 3 defScale=1 Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] sensorType= 3 scaleMask= 2 defScale=1 Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] sensorType= 5 scaleMask= 1 defScale=0 Thu 06/25/2015 04:52:12 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] sensorType= 27 scaleMask= 1 defScale=0 Looks like it'll also add in secure mode too. Thu 06/25/2015 05:17:47 PM : Adding Z-Wave devices stopped Thu 06/25/2015 05:17:47 PM : Exchanging data with secure Z-Wave device 17 of type 4.33.1 Thu 06/25/2015 05:17:47 PM : Adding secure Z-Wave device Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf0 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Thanks for the info. Been waiting to get a couple of these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Thanks for the info. Been waiting to get a couple of these. I'm hoping they work really well, if they do... I'm going to stick one in every room and maybe hallways! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo.Automates Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 I just got mine yesterday and it seems to be working great. Much better than the older one so far, and can't believe how small it is. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Anyone have any idea what the "binary" sensor is? And what is the "status" in the multi-sensor view? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 10, 2015 Author Share Posted July 10, 2015 I had always hoped the multi sensors would act as repeaters if they were powered by USB, it seemed logical and would solve my zwave reach issues if I had one in every room. But I couldn't find anything that said either way, so I asked Michel if he would reach to Aeotec... and their reply is below. Response from AeoTec: As per your question, the Multisensor G5 or 6 can act as a repeater when used on USB power. But the sensor will need to be included while the sensors are powered via USB power. Awesome, the 5 and 6 both act as repeaters *if* they're powered by usb and *if* they were included while powered by usb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 As a data point what are people seeing in terms of accuracy of temp, humidity, UV light, Luminous, etc. Can someone post up a real world picture next to a quarter for size comparisons. I'm a visual learner . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 10, 2015 Author Share Posted July 10, 2015 As a data point what are people seeing in terms of accuracy of temp, humidity, UV light, Luminous, etc. Can someone post up a real world picture next to a quarter for size comparisons. I'm a visual learner . . . I'll grab a picture this evening if I remember, but it is basically the size of a ring box. I'm impressed by how small it is. Do you know how big a A123 battery is? It has two of them, I'd guess that if the inside was hollow it'd hold ~4 of those batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 I'll grab a picture this evening if I remember, but it is basically the size of a ring box. I'm impressed by how small it is. Do you know how big a A123 battery is? It has two of them, I'd guess that if the inside was hollow it'd hold ~4 of those batteries. That is small! Now how about in terms of accuracy and what people are using to confirm this data is accurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 10, 2015 Author Share Posted July 10, 2015 That is small! Now how about in terms of accuracy and what people are using to confirm this data is accurate? I have 10 of them coming in the mail along with 2 currently, I'll set them all up and plug them all into usb power and leave them in the same room reasonably close to each other and see what they all report for the various values. Temp and humidity should be easy to verify with something, not sure on uv and luminosity so I'll just be hoping they all report similar values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 I have 10 of them coming in the mail along with 2 currently, I'll set them all up and plug them all into usb power and leave them in the same room reasonably close to each other and see what they all report for the various values. Temp and humidity should be easy to verify with something, not sure on uv and luminosity so I'll just be hoping they all report similar values. Can you do me a favor perhaps perform a full review about the pros' / con's of this unit for the forum members. I have been waiting on the side lines for something like this but haven't pulled the trigger for Z-Wave. I think it still has a way to go before I can dive in with both feet because I have very specific requirements and don't want to spend my money twice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hadje Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 I just added one to my network. It shows up as several devices: Multi-Level Sensor(Code 1): "Status" = Motion Control, "Temperature", "Humidity", "UV Light", "Luminence", "Battery Level" Binary Sensor (Code 104): "Status" .... don't know what this is yet. It has been off the whole time. Tamper Alarm (Code 157): "Status" = Vibration On/Off Intrusion Alarm (Code 172): "Status" = ? Tamper Code Alarm (Code 173): "Status" = same Vibration On/Off Glass Break Alarm (Code 153): "Status" = ? I'm not sure if there is any difference between the Tamper Alarm, Intrusion Alarm, and Tamper Code Alarm. And what's with the Glass Break Alarm?!? Anyway, I haven't tested it, but the unit does have the ability to calibrate all the multi-sensors using parameters. I'm impressed so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 I just added one to my network. It shows up as several devices: Multi-Level Sensor(Code 1): "Status" = Motion Control, "Temperature", "Humidity", "UV Light", "Luminence", "Battery Level" Binary Sensor (Code 104): "Status" .... don't know what this is yet. It has been off the whole time. Tamper Alarm (Code 157): "Status" = Vibration On/Off Intrusion Alarm (Code 172): "Status" = ? Tamper Code Alarm (Code 173): "Status" = same Vibration On/Off Glass Break Alarm (Code 153): "Status" = ? I'm not sure if there is any difference between the Tamper Alarm, Intrusion Alarm, and Tamper Code Alarm. And what's with the Glass Break Alarm?!? Anyway, I haven't tested it, but the unit does have the ability to calibrate all the multi-sensors using parameters. I'm impressed so far. It would be great to see those who have this sensor compare the Aeotec to a known good measurement tool. I am interested to see how well the humidity, temperature, and light sensor operate. I don't know of a cheap UV light detector for the consumer that doesn't cost hundreds of dollars. I suppose I could always borrow one from work and compare the two when I ultimately purchase one. With respect to the LUX sensor I will need to compare it to a test tool I have for accuracy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf0 Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I received mine today, these are my observations: Motion Timeout Not very accurate. I set mine to 2 mins. It turns off after about 2:10 through 2:35. Fortunately it's for a light under the bed to give me a glow when I get up to go to the bathroom. So not that important. Luminance Wow! Compared to the previous generation it is way less sensitive. Goes from 0 in the kitchen with the blinds closed to about 16 with all the kitchen lights on, I couldn't get it any higher. Humidity This is the first sensor I've used that actually reports the same humidity as my two stand alone digital thermometers. In the same room. +-2% UV I didn't expect this to report anything inside the house and it doesn't. Temperature This sensor reports about 4-5 degrees "F" high compared to my digital thermometers. Vibration This works when you handle the sensor and resets itself, I think after a fixed time. I'm disappointed it didn't come with batteries like most battery power sensors do. Especially considering the price. I'm currently running it powered since I had an outlet under the bed. Advantage is, when powered it's supposed to be a repeater. Node information on a device close by confirms it is. It is small and light (without batteries), a little cheaper feeling than the previous generation, the back door can be pulled off if you use sticky tape to attach to a wall. The field of view seems narrower than the previous generation, well, it does have a much smaller lens. Still need to figure out what the "binary sensor" is and difference between "status" in the multilevel sensor which reports % and "Motion" in the motion node which reports On/Off, they seem to follow each other. The user manual actually gives you the configuration parameters that you need to adjust basic operation, never seen that before. Good job Aeon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf0 Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I just added one to my network. It shows up as several devices: Multi-Level Sensor(Code 1): "Status" = Motion Control, "Temperature", "Humidity", "UV Light", "Luminence", "Battery Level" Binary Sensor (Code 104): "Status" .... don't know what this is yet. It has been off the whole time. Tamper Alarm (Code 157): "Status" = Vibration On/Off Intrusion Alarm (Code 172): "Status" = ? Tamper Code Alarm (Code 173): "Status" = same Vibration On/Off Glass Break Alarm (Code 153): "Status" = ? I'm not sure if there is any difference between the Tamper Alarm, Intrusion Alarm, and Tamper Code Alarm. And what's with the Glass Break Alarm?!? Anyway, I haven't tested it, but the unit does have the ability to calibrate all the multi-sensors using parameters. I'm impressed so far. I didn't get the Intrusion or Glass Break nodes, they maybe phantom devices. I have -1, -104, -155 & -157. The -155 was the Motion node. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michel Kohanim Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Hi Andy, We support the alarm command classes that it supports. They may show up on their own. Have you checked this document :http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/Aeotech-MS6-Config-Params.pdf With kind regards, Michel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf0 Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 There is some extra information there that I didn't have, thanks! However, I'm using the sensor in a position (on the leg of my bed) where I only care about motion. But the information in that document should allow the variances I observed to be corrected. I don't think glass breakage, or intrusion alarm is relevant for this device which is why I suggested phantom devices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 I'm disappointed it didn't come with batteries like most battery power sensors do. Especially considering the price. I got two and they both came with batteries, maybe you could email the company you got them from? I have 10 more on order, I'll see if any didn't come with batteries. I'm actually still trying to figure out the best way to power these from the wall so that they can be repeaters. Since I don't have many zwave devices, using them like this would be a big win. I'm thinking of mounting them above an existing wall outlet, replacing the outlet w/ a USB charger + outlet and then... poking a hole in the wall to run some USB cables up. Or something like that. Maybe extend a second outlet up to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo.Automates Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Mine came with batteries because I pre-ordered and shipping was delayed for a few weeks so they threw in free batteries. The good news is it has been running for over 3 weeks and battery level is still 100% which is a huge improvement over the originals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 "2-year battery life with standard use (batteries not included)" <- from Amazon. Damn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hadje Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 I really wish there was a better option to power this thing. The USB option is easy if you plan on plugging it into a computer, but if I want to connect it to a low-voltage line it makes it kinda difficult. Has anyone been brave enough to cut the usb/mini-usb provided to see if we can easily access the power leads? I really want to run these in full-power mode, but getting 5v to them (when they are mounted in the upper corner of the rooms) without ugly wires hanging down is going to be a pain. Right now my best plan might be to run 120v to an outlet box, put in one of the usb outlets and plug it in. I'm trying to decided if that is easier of if just fishing low-voltage lines to each spot from a central power supply might be better (and much cheaper) in the end. Has anyone thought of something clever to power these cleanly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 Right now my best plan might be to run 120v to an outlet box, put in one of the usb outlets and plug it in. I'm trying to decided if that is easier of if just fishing low-voltage lines to each spot from a central power supply might be better (and much cheaper) in the end. Has anyone thought of something clever to power these cleanly? This is my plan right now, either putting the outlet up where the motion sensor is or more likely, just poking holes in the wall and going in and out behind it. I guess splicing in some low voltage in wall wire? Stupid power! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 USB cables up to 30' are readily available. BTW, it's in compliance with the NEC and CSA to "fish" low voltage cables through walls. It's not OK do that with extension wire carrying line voltage, neither 2- nor 3-conductor cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitartexan01 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Being an electrician, I have had ample opportunities over the years to learn the small tricks to getting wires where they need to be. By far it is easier to run low voltage rather than supply wires. Use flexible lamp wire for these motion sensors. Use the type that has one side marked for polarity and keep it the same on both ends. This is just good practice to always do wether polarity is required or not. Next locate a mounting location. Ideally you will have a receptacle or a switch (with neutral!) below the sensor. Obtain a small USB charger and pry open the case. Unsolder and remove the props that plug in the wall and solder on leads that you can piggyback onto the receptacle screws. This USB charger should fit in the back of the box behind the switch or receptacle. If it will not fit, you may need to carefully remove the existing box from the wall. This can be done by using a battery powered sawzall and cutting the nails against the stud and allowing the old box to fall into the wall as you push the wire(s) out. In its place, insert a new DEEP box you have removed the nails and nail holders from. Get the box positioned in the wall and against the stud and screw in two Sheetrock screws to secure the box. You now have a deep box with ample room for the additional wiring and you never had to cut any Sheetrock. Warning: this takes patience and some practice. An alternative is to mount the sensors on the ceiling and punch a hole for the wire in the ceiling further away from the wall. Get a metal fishing tape or stiff length of wire and push it through this hole and towards the center of the house and away from the outer wall. Once in the attic, you should see the fish-tape and be able to retrieve it to pull your wire through. Good Luck! If you need, I can try to answer more specific questions relating to electrical installations, always with the disclaimer that you should not work with electricity unless you are comfortable doing so and you know that electricity can kill you. GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryfrog Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 Obtain a small USB charger and pry open the case. Unsolder and remove the props that plug in the wall and solder on leads that you can piggyback onto the receptacle screws. This USB charger should fit in the back of the box behind the switch or receptacle. Interesting idea, I was just going to get one of those outlets w/ USB ports, but this would look quite a bit better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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