Outletlinc

[aLf]

Just put many of these new versions in the house.  I just went to program the first and found it is now controllable bot top and bottom!  That is great, but in this particular use, I have a clock pugged into the top (always hot), and the fluorescent light plugged into the lower (on at sunset - off at 10:30).  The light is an easy program. But I obviously don't want the clock switched of accidentally...  Is there a way to bullet-proof a program so as to make sure it is ALWAYS on?

[Teken]

I don't follow if you have no plans to control the top outlet why then have a program? No program = no problems?

[oberkc]

What teken said.  Make sure the top is part of NO scene, or NO program, and it should stay in whatever state you want it.

[PurdueGuy]

Like Teken said, don't use it in programs/scenes.

If you are really concerned about accidentally turning it off, write a program to turn it back on:

If
        'TopOutlet' Status is Off
 
Then
        Set 'TopOutlet' On
 
Else
   - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')
 
 

[jtara92101]

I just ordered one, but am sending it back. (Don't have it yet.)

 

I realized for my use a micro on/off 2443-222 is a better choice. I wasn't thinking of that when I placed the first order. (Already got the micro on/off, my first order hasn't arrived yet...)

 

My weekend project is building it in to an espresso machine. I will wire the sense line to the machine's on/off switch.

 

I once left the house with the espresso machine turned on, and when I came back, it didn't work any more. It over-heated. I thought it was a goner, but then I realized it must have some thermostatic protection. I looked and looked and couldn't find it, but finally found a web site that showed where the tiny little reset button was. Whew! That was after letting it sit for months unused, wary of the high repair bill I thought was forthcoming.

 

Never again! When I am away, the machine will be OFF.

 

BTW, this is the machine:

 

 

 

It is a luxury to be sure. But rather than losing value the minute I "drove it off the lot", my $800 investment now sells for about twice as much.

 

And I'm thinking about what else I might build these (or the micro dimmer) into. My introduction to the micro dimmer was installing a flat LED light in a walk-in closet, operated by a micro remote. (The old light used a pull chain, no controlling switch).

 

I think I can put a micro dimmer in the base of a torch lamp in my office. Hmmm, just looked - would require careful use of shrink tubing and tape and/or adding a metal cover to the bottom. There is certainly enough room in the weighted base for it, but open to the floor.

Edited September 10, 2016 by jtara92101

[aLf]

I've had some Insteon in the past that changed status, i.e. off when on, vice.  I'm just concerned that the outlet will random turn off.  I know that these units have evolved, but I still have memories of them doing what they shouldn't!

[Teken]

I've had some Insteon in the past that changed status, i.e. off when on, vice.  I'm just concerned that the outlet will random turn off.  I know that these units have evolved, but I still have memories of them doing what they shouldn't!

 

The latest dual outlet remembers its last *Known State* whether it be on-off. The benefit is if you lose power it will return to the on position assuming this was the last known state.

[stusviews]

The latest dual outlet remembers its last *Known State* whether it be on-off. The benefit is if you lose power it will return to the on position assuming this was the last known state.

 

It's only a benefit if the user first, is aware of that feature and second, connects a device that is safe to turn on unattended. Nowhere is the first requirement documented (except in forums).

[Teken]

It's only a benefit if the user first, is aware of that feature and second, connects a device that is safe to turn on unattended. Nowhere is the first requirement documented (except in forums).

 

This is true given some of the past forum threads where someone almost burnt their house down due to a accidental scarf falling on table lamp that returned to the on state after a power loss. Given the OP indicated its for a clock radio and now knows this dual outlet relay supports *Last Known* state.

 

He should move forward knowing what he plugs in should respect fire / safety.

[G W]

This is true given some of the past forum threads where someone almost burnt their house down due to a accidental scarf falling on table lamp that returned to the on state after a power loss. Given the OP indicated its for a clock radio and now knows this dual outlet relay supports *Last Known* state.

 

He should move forward knowing what he plugs in should respect fire / safety.

Without any control a lamp will return to its last state when power is returned. That accident would have happened regardless.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

[ISYhbsh01]

Without any control a lamp will return to its last state when power is returned. That accident would have happened regardless.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

I remember that thread. In that specific case the lamp was controlled by an old switchlinc that always reverted to on after a power loss. That lamp was actually off when the scarf was thrown on it. It was only much later when they were away on vacation that the house had a power loss and turned on the lamp with the scarf on it.

[G W]

I remember that thread. In that specific case the lamp was controlled by an old switchlinc that always reverted to on after a power loss. That lamp was actually off when the scarf was thrown on it. It was only much later when they were away on vacation that the house had a power loss and turned on the lamp with the scarf on it.

I understand now. Thank you. That was a bad idea made worse by the power event.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

[Brian H]

Anyone here using Insteon long enough. To remember the 2454D SocketLinc Dimmer V2?

Looked like an over sized X10 LM15A Socket Rocket. Only Insteon.

It always powered up to 100% ON after a power loss and restoration.

Edited September 11, 2016 by Brian H

[larryllix]

I understand now. Thank you. That was a bad idea made worse by the power event.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

The accident was more from a user having an unsafe device that shouldn't have been on the market. and a few other factors.

 

Then tried to blame it on technology. It was an attention getter.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17477-insteon-almost-burned-my-house-down-now-isy-problem/?hl=%2Bburned+%2Bhouse

Edited September 11, 2016 by larryllix

[ISYhbsh01]

I understand now. Thank you. That was a bad idea made worse by the power event.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

I agree.

[Teken]

I'm sorry I referenced that thread. Lets please not reply back to the link offered by Larry. The OP was sincere and corrective actions have been made so we are told.

 

I personally came out blazing in that thread because there were items that needed to be addressed and discussed.

 

Having said this, the OP in that specific case was sincere and did realize proactive measures needed to be made moving forward.

 

No need to kick the dog again. ☹️

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

[larryllix]

In a previous house I used a few X10 switched outlets. Most burned out running cabinet lighting, and had to be replaced, poor quality.

 

After selling my home and having to take them all out, I never purchased any for my Insteon system, when Plug-in modules are so easy to unplug, repurpose, and take with you.

 

I would not use smart outlets again and I wouldn't want to scare prospective buyers away when selling next time. After a previous home sale I removed all my X10 switches, worrying that the buyer would demand them back.

 

The day of the closing inspection the woman walked right to a cluster of switches where many X10 switches were, and said,

 

   "What happened to the switches?"

 

I told her they were part of a security system that wasn't operable anymore (BS)

 

  "Well, Good! I thought I was going to have to get an electrician to replace them all".

 

 

This house I will have to worry about prospective buyers being scared off by an alternative PV solar energy system.

Edited September 11, 2016 by larryllix

[jtara92101]

After reading Teken's comments, I rethought my plan for modifying my Espresso machine with a micro on/off.

 

While the micro on/off does not seem to have the problem of the flawed SwitchLincs, it got me thinking that the PURPOSE of my modification is safety. So, while the micro on/off does not SEEM to have the problem, who knows if it has an unknown failure mode?

 

My purpose is to help insure the machine is powered-off if I am not home. I have no interest in warming it up when I drive home. Do you know that there are GE ranges that have a network connection and can do this? What could possibly go wrong?! I've always been uncomfortable with the "delay" feature of ranges and microwaves.

 

I shudder at suggestions in instruction manuals about leaving a turkey in the oven and then having it start cooking at a certain time! What were they thinking? Food safety, anyone? (Yes, if you leave a frozen turkey in the oven, for less time than it takes to reach The Danger Zone...)

 

I don't like running the self-clean and then leaving the house either! 

 

So, no wiring the machine's on/off switch to the sense input.

 

I will just wire the micro on/off in front of the machine's switch. It can disable the machine, but it can't turn it on.

 

A lamp would be a different story.

 

BTW, a few years ago, I came home, and all the lights were alternately flashing on and off. I hate to think how long they had been doing that and wonder what the neighbors thought? I forget what the problem was, I think it was a bad Insteon device.

 

Thanks, Teken, for focusing on safety and making me think!

Edited September 11, 2016 by jtara92101

[larryllix]

After reading Teken's comments, I rethought my plan for modifying my Espresso machine with a micro on/off.

 

While the micro on/off does not seem to have the problem of the flawed SwitchLincs, it got me thinking that the PURPOSE of my modification is safety. So, while the micro on/off does not SEEM to have the problem, who knows if it has an unknown failure mode?

 

My purpose is to help insure the machine is powered-off if I am not home. I have no interest in warming it up when I drive home. Do you know that there are GE ranges that have a network connection and can do this? What could possibly go wrong?! I've always been uncomfortable with the "delay" feature of ranges and microwaves.

 

I shudder at suggestions in instruction manuals about leaving a turkey in the oven and then having it start cooking at a certain time! What were they thinking? Food safety, anyone? (Yes, if you leave a frozen turkey in the oven, for less time than it takes to reach The Danger Zone...)

 

I don't like running the self-clean and then leaving the house either!

 

So, no wiring the machine's on/off switch to the sense input.

 

I will just wire the micro on/off in front of the machine's switch. It can disable the machine, but it can't turn it on.

 

A lamp would be a different story.

 

BTW, a few years ago, I came home, and all the lights were alternately flashing on and off. I hate to think how long they had been doing that and wonder what the neighbors thought? I forget what the problem was, I think it was a bad Insteon device.

 

Thanks, Teken, for focusing on safety and making me think!

I don't see any mention of SwitchLincs from Teken???

The bulb problem was a halogen lamp plugged into something. SwitchLinc is a built in wall switch.

 

SwitchLinc was introduced by a hit'n run and doesn't seem correct.

 

 

EDIT: My mistake. The bulb thread OP did use a very early version of a SwitchLinc to control his outlet.

Edited September 11, 2016 by larryllix

[Teken]

After reading Teken's comments, I rethought my plan for modifying my Espresso machine with a micro on/off.

 

While the micro on/off does not seem to have the problem of the flawed SwitchLincs, it got me thinking that the PURPOSE of my modification is safety. So, while the micro on/off does not SEEM to have the problem, who knows if it has an unknown failure mode?

 

My purpose is to help insure the machine is powered-off if I am not home. I have no interest in warming it up when I drive home. Do you know that there are GE ranges that have a network connection and can do this? What could possibly go wrong?! I've always been uncomfortable with the "delay" feature of ranges and microwaves.

 

I shudder at suggestions in instruction manuals about leaving a turkey in the oven and then having it start cooking at a certain time! What were they thinking? Food safety, anyone? (Yes, if you leave a frozen turkey in the oven, for less time than it takes to reach The Danger Zone...)

 

I don't like running the self-clean and then leaving the house either! 

 

So, no wiring the machine's on/off switch to the sense input.

 

I will just wire the micro on/off in front of the machine's switch. It can disable the machine, but it can't turn it on.

 

A lamp would be a different story.

 

BTW, a few years ago, I came home, and all the lights were alternately flashing on and off. I hate to think how long they had been doing that and wonder what the neighbors thought? I forget what the problem was, I think it was a bad Insteon device.

 

Thanks, Teken, for focusing on safety and making me think!

 

Not a problem as its easy to get lost in the whole automate everything. One of the hardest things I find that people don't fully understand is that *Any Device* should operate in its native way with out thinking. A lay (common) person who enters a home should not have to decipher what something does or ask questions of how it functions.

 

Doing so will open the home and the occupants to mistakes and in the extreme situation life or death. Other things people fail to realize is any device that is modified from the OEM specification by default is void of any UL / cUL and safety ratings. When I see people using RPi's into their HVAC system for control I just have to shake my head in disbelief.

 

The HVAC system in most cases is one of the most critical and expansive elements in the home.

 

People really need to apply some common sense in what they do because there are just too many instances where things just went completely wrong.

[jtara92101]

I finally got around to my espresso project, and realized it would probably be a bad idea to install the micro on/off in the base of the espresso machine. I checked the specs on the wiring in the base, and was able to find the specs from the website of the Italian company that makes the wire. It has silicon insulation, and is rated to 180C (356F). Checked the spec on the micro on/off, and operating range goes only to 104F! I figured the environment in the espresso machine base will be too hostile for the micro on/off.

 

Installing an on/off outlet instead. A bit awkward, as I will need to add a power strip in order to plug everything else into the other outlet. (Sous Vide', lamp, grinder.) I was using a pair of flat heavy-duty splitter dongles. (Well, hmmmm... I guess it wouldn't hurt to plug the grinder into the same outlet as the espresso machine.)

 

Goal is two-fold - just thought of a second use!

 

1. Safety. When away, the ISY will insure the espresso machine is off. I had an "incident" in the past. Did not damage the machine, but scratched my head for a while realizing that there is a tiny thermal reset switch in the base.

 

2. Convenience. Now I can have Google Home Assistant announce when the machine is ready to use, and then remind me again if it's been on too long and finally shut it off. ("Your espresso machine is ready." ... "Did you forget to make espresso? ... Turning off espresso, it's been on too long!") If it stays on too long without use, it will be too hot, resulting in improper timing of the "pull" - it will come spurting out in seconds rather than the desirable 20-30 seconds. (Can be compensated with finer grind or harder tamping, but then I'd also have to wait longer...). And then finally shut it off if it's been on too long.

 

I'm enabling the sense so that if I do leave with the espresso on too long, I only need to turn the switch on the machine off then back on to re-enable the switch.

Edited February 27, 2017 by jtara92101

[stusviews]

Unless it's an electronic device, you're probably OK plugging a kitchen countertop appliance into the other outlet, even using a triple tap.

[jtara92101]

Well, darn! I had assumed that I could use IFTTT to make the Home Assistant speak when timers time-out... But, no. It will be more complicated!

 

I came across this for Raspberry Pi. As it's just Python, assume I could install this on my always-on Mac Mini or on my Asus Router (with AsusWRT-Merlin).

 

    https://community.home-assistant.io/t/speak-service/7292

 

Assume that is just chrome-casting to the Home Assistant, so there should be lots of options.

 

BTW, do not turn off both RF and powerline communication! I found out the hard way... As I had no assistant for hard reset, I had to remove the OutletLinc and put it on my zip-cord setup to reset. (To hard reset, hold down top button while powering up until it makes a long beep, and wait for the long beep to finish.)

 

There is a soft reset, which only resets links, but not options.

 

One thing that bothers me a bit is that it's only 15A, and it's on a 20A circuit. It may be possible to overload the outlet. Looks like I sneak by:

 

Espresso: 800W

Sous Vide' 850 W

Lamp 10W

Total 1670W ~14A

 

When I am using the sous vide' it normally loafs along at like 20W, but would draw 850W during initial heating of the water bath.

 

This is not in my kitchen, unfortunately, it's along the back wall of my living room adjacent to kitchen.There's one circuit for LR and office outlets. (LR lighting is on separate circult at least.) It leaves me with 6A for AV, subwoofer, and office computer! Skating on thin ice if I am watching the morning news, while reading email, making espresso, and warming a Sous-Vide' bath. Fortunately, an unlikely combination.

[Bumbershoot]

 

I'm enabling the sense so that if I do leave with the espresso on too long, I only need to turn the switch on the machine off then back on to re-enable the switch.

 

Doh!  I never thought to use load sense for this!  I keep my espresso machine inside an appliance garage in the kitchen, so I've always been careful to shut the OutletLinc off overnight and when we're away, but this is way better.  Thanks for the idea!

Edited February 27, 2017 by Bumbershoot

[Teken]

Information Only: The Micro On/Off relay module when first (initially) powered will be placed in the on state. Once the device has completed this mini POST process the last known state recollection should remain. The operative word is *Should* there have been iterations of hardware and firmware for this device since its release.

 

A very small percentage of users like me have seen when there is a very brief power blip. It can fool the Micro On/Off relay module into thinking its the first time power has been applied.

 

Thus, the device comes back in the on state .  . .

 

This issue can be repro'd by short cycling the circuits (be careful) breaker which supplies power to the module. I've often considered and reflected that this strange behavior is at least one cause to the famous ALL ON event some have seen over the years.

 

I don't know if Smartlabs has ever tested for this specific environmental fault but members should be cognoscente of such possibilities to happen. This is why its paramount any home automation integration have an eye toward safety in all aspects.