diggler Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Have a booster fan that plugs into a 110 outlet. Currently it has a temp sensor that turns the outlet in and off. Def a pos hardware. Is it possible to linc a iolinc from thermostat to recieve the on heat or on ac signal then have it turn on a outlet? Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
stusviews Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Yes, if it's an Insteon thermostat and Insteon outlet. But the thermostat can directly control the outlet. An I/O Linc is not needed. Link to comment
diggler Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Its not a insteon thermostat. Have honeywell Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
Brian H Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Is the thermostat battery operated? You maybe able to connect the W and R/RC terminals to the IOLinc Sensor and Ground connections. This would require the old control voltages are no longer on the thermostat. Link to comment
stusviews Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Which Honeywell thermostat, Z-Wave, WiFi, other? And which outlet do you want to control. Z-Wave, Insteon, other? Link to comment
diggler Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Thwrmostat is not battery operated. I will control a appliancelinc. I have a wifi thermostat. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
paulbates Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 The iolinc has a 5 volt rating for input, and HVAC uses 24 volts AC, so I wouldn't wire it directly to an iolinc Iolinc contact specs: 5V (10mA), GND, Sense, N/C, N/O, Common (28-16 gauge wire) I've seen posts where people have wired the 24vac call to a relay, and let the relay switch the iolinc. One of our more electronically inclined here might know the right part specification, or search around the forums Paul Link to comment
stusviews Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 The 5V supply has a very low capacity, only 10mA. It's output, not input. I use it drive a piezoelectric buzzer, see: Insteon BuzzLinc. The input (sense) requires a dry contact switch, such as the aforementioned relay. Any voltage applied will destroy the sensing circuitry. But the built-in relay can be used to switch up to 5 amps @ 30 volts, AC or DC. A difficulty is getting the thermostat to control an Insteon device. That can be accomplished by wiring a 24VAC coil relay to the thermostat's common and W (heat) terminals and connecting the relay contacts to the sense terminals on an I/O Linc. The connection the the thermostat terminals is probably easiest to accomplish at the HVAC control panel. Link to comment
midrar Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 I recommend that you try a different method. Most furnaces 15 years old and newer have a EAC (electronic air cleaner) set of contacts on the board. Anytime the furnace blower is on, EAC contacts are energized with 110v. Get yourself a $20 relay w/ 110v coil and wire the coil to the EAC terminal screws. Then wire your relay accordingly with separate power with enough capacity to run the blower. Link to comment
larryllix Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 A more appropriate method may be too just increase the size of the ducting or have the duct take off repositioned on the main heating duct by a better furnace contractor, to increase the supply air flow. Cleaning out the carpet infringement and other air impediments (like framing not cut back) in the return air system usually solves a lot of these "cold spot" problems, as well. Link to comment
diggler Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 I recommend that you try a different method. Most furnaces 15 years old and newer have a EAC (electronic air cleaner) set of contacts on the board. Anytime the furnace blower is on, EAC contacts are energized with 110v. Get yourself a $20 relay w/ 110v coil and wire the coil to the EAC terminal screws. Then wire your relay accordingly with separate power with enough capacity to run the blower.Problem with that is the furnace is in basement and blower is on 2nd floor Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
diggler Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 A more appropriate method may be too just increase the size of the ducting or have the duct take off repositioned on the main heating duct by a better furnace contractor, to increase the supply air flow. Cleaning out the carpet infringement and other air impediments (like framing not cut back) in the return air system usually solves a lot of these "cold spot" problems, as well. Sad part is finnished attic on a budget, used the existing duct that was ran when house was built. Its ok but could use more air. No way to get a trunk up to attic without boxing in and taking away from a room. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
diggler Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 I have one room where I put a duct booster on an appliance linc https://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-RB10-Register-Booster-Fits/dp/B005FNL0OW They make several different sizes. I did some light metal work on a new register. It really moves air. I used a program to have 5 mins on / 5 mins off during active heat/cool cycles. How did u get it to synch with thermostat? You using a insteon thermostat? Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
stusviews Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 diggler, are you concerned about heat only or both heat and cooling? Link to comment
paulbates Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 How did u get it to synch with thermostat? You using a insteon thermostat? Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Sorry, I deleted my post after seeing your original post was about a duct booster so thought it wasn't relevant... doh! I originally had it on an x10 sensor that measured when the furnace was on -.Powerflash & Universal modules. I briefly tried the Insteon stat but they locked up when connected to my old furnaces. It's been a few years, but my recollection was when the Insteon was working, it had to be queried a lot to get the program to work... over all it wasn't the best but maybe someone here better knows its ins and outs. I finally went to the Venstar T5900 that reported when it was actually calling heat or AC to the ISY, that's what was eventually adapted to (below). In the coldest part of winter it could run 20 - 25 minute cycles. I had to play with 'wait' times to balance how much was delivered with boost. The Tjernlund is very powerful and redirected a lot of air. I retired this program after insulating that side of the house and replacing the furnaces. HVAC Duct Booster - Kristen - [ID 0020][Parent 0017][Not Enabled] If 'HVAC / Upstairs' Heat/Cool State is Heating Or 'HVAC / Upstairs' Heat/Cool State is Cooling Then Repeat Every 15 minutes Wait 3 minutes Set 'HVAC / Kristen Duct Booster' On Wait 3 minutes Set 'HVAC / Kristen Duct Booster' Off Else Set 'HVAC / Kristen Duct Booster' Off Link to comment
diggler Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 diggler, are you concerned about heat only or both heat and cooling?Yes both, so far balanced the controller but not sure if I like it. Poor design. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
stusviews Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 I'm not sure what "balanced the controller" means. At the HVAC control panel, measure the voltage between the G terminal and the C terminal with heating/cooling on and off. What are the results. The voltage is low voltage (<30V) AC. Link to comment
diggler Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 The booster fan has a add on controller that senses the heat or cold in the duct. At the right temp it will turn on the outlet. Its a little pai to get right. Wither it runs too long or on for no reason Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Would have rather a flow sensor to turn on fan. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
diggler Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
larryllix Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 If you think you will want smart control over the fan later and via ISY I would use an OnOffLinc and an IoLinc to hook to a dry contact off your furnace control. The alternative to that would be a 2441ZTH thermostat with remote sensor or even a CAO Tag to get data into your ISY. What will warm air sensing contacts do when you run the A/C and you need to reverse the contact logic and recalibrate it twice per year? Link to comment
diggler Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 If you think you will want smart control over the fan later and via ISY I would use an OnOffLinc and an IoLinc to hook to a dry contact off your furnace control. The alternative to that would be a 2441ZTH thermostat with remote sensor or even a CAO Tag to get data into your ISY. What will warm air sensing contacts do when you run the A/C and you need to reverse the contact logic and recalibrate it twice per year? Thats exactly my point, why they just didnt go with a flow.sensor. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment
larryllix Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I would mount a 2441TH with a connection to your 16-24vac furnace supply. Then hook a remote sensor to the 244TH and select the remote sensor. Shove the sensor into the war air plenum and voila. You have air feed temperature into your ISY. Now you can control whatebver you want with your ISY based on air temperature inside your furnace. You should also get humidity as a freebie. Link to comment
larryllix Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thats exactly my point, why they just didnt go with a flow.sensor. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk It would be hard to detect no air flow in front of a fan. Sent from a tiny keyboard. Response may be brief. Link to comment
stusviews Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I'd measure the voltages as I suggested. Link to comment
larryllix Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thwrmostat is not battery operated. I will control a appliancelinc. I have a wifi thermostat. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Scott has his Honeywell thermostats connected through his CAO Tag manager into ISY variables. That may be a low cost method to connect your stat into ISY too and then you can control the ApplianceLinc from there. Also people love the CAO Tags because they get temperature, humidity, motion, and now lights from each Tag for about $30. Accurate to 0.4C and they can be received for miles, literally. A double cookie tin or freezer wall doesn't not stop them. Link to comment
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