larryllix Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 1 hour ago, apostolakisl said: Just did the same repair to a KPL. It had failed as if it were getting no power. I opened it up to see what caps it might have, and it has the same cap. I replaced that one capacitor and the KPL is back up and running. Again, I wish there were away to rivet the heat sink back to the body. Any ideas? Lots of heat conductive silicone grease and small bolt, lock, and nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwester Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 I was going to try a pop-rivet -- I found an aluminum rivet of the correct outside diameter. Perhaps I should dig up that KPL and see if that works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 1 hour ago, mwester said: I was going to try a pop-rivet -- I found an aluminum rivet of the correct outside diameter. Perhaps I should dig up that KPL and see if that works. It would require just the most perfect rivet since there isn't much clearance on the inside or outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndyMike Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Conductive epoxy or conductive tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smbenson Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Standard aluminum rivets worked fine on the 2 switches I repaired last year. I have 4 more to do now - most are 8 - 10 yrs old, so I guess I was lucky. Some were doing the weird stuff like above, a couple were just dead. I fixed 2 keypad lincs the same way, replacing the caps with low esr caps. I have only had one not work by replacing caps. Also repaired a PLM the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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