FredT Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 I had multiple poser disruptions at my home today. When it was all over my ISSY appears unresponsive. I cannot contact it through the web browser like usual. Also it is programmed to send me an email when it boots, I do not get these email. It does not respond to the programs I have established to respond to key presses from a mini remote keypad. In short, it appears not to connect to the internet and not to PLM communications. I am contemplating trying a factory reset. Do I have other options? Thanks. Link to comment
FredT Posted May 28, 2019 Author Share Posted May 28, 2019 Oh, I forgot to add: The blue power LED is illuminated steady, but no activity on the other LEDs. Link to comment
markv58 Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 The sd card may have been corrupted. Link to comment
FredT Posted May 28, 2019 Author Share Posted May 28, 2019 1 hour ago, markv58 said: The sd card may have been corrupted. Mark- If that's the case, what do I do? Also, there seems to be a problem with the ethernet port. The hub doesn't show link to the ISSY. Tried other hubs ports and even other hubs, but none of them show link. So the problem appears to be with the ISSY port. Link to comment
markv58 Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 Have a look at this: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card It may not be corrupt but it is a possibility with all the power interruptions. I have mine on a UPS that keeps it safe. Link to comment
markv58 Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 Here is some more help: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Troubleshooting_Flowchart Link to comment
mwester Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 Before you do anything else, try swapping the power supply. Check the wiki for specs; the replacement needs to provide the same amperage, or more -- and the ISY will accept quite a broad range of input voltage. The point being that you might find some other device in your home that you can temporarily borrow the power supply from in order to test the ISY with it. Link to comment
Techman Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 2 hours ago, FredT said: I had multiple poser disruptions at my home today. When it was all over my ISSY appears unresponsive. I cannot contact it through the web browser like usual. Also it is programmed to send me an email when it boots, I do not get these email. It does not respond to the programs I have established to respond to key presses from a mini remote keypad. In short, it appears not to connect to the internet and not to PLM communications. I am contemplating trying a factory reset. Do I have other options? Thanks. Unplug the PLM and the ISY, wait a short while then first plug in the PLM, wait about 10 seconds then plug in the ISY. If that doesn't resolve the issue then try rebooting your router. Link to comment
Michel Kohanim Posted May 29, 2019 Share Posted May 29, 2019 @FredT, If upon reboot, you don't see any activity on other LEDs, then either the power supply has gone bad or the flash. As @mwester suggested, the first thing I would do is use a different power supply (anything from 5 to 30 volts, center positive, 500mA min). If not, the unit is defective. With kind regards, Michel Link to comment
FredT Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 9 hours ago, Michel Kohanim said: @FredT, If upon reboot, you don't see any activity on other LEDs, then either the power supply has gone bad or the flash. As @mwester suggested, the first thing I would do is use a different power supply (anything from 5 to 30 volts, center positive, 500mA min). If not, the unit is defective. With kind regards, Michel Thanks Michel. I tried a different power supply and still no luck. Also was able to read the flash on my PC, so I assume it is OK. I have a replacement ISSY ordered and on its way. Other than installing the new ISSY and restoring the last backup, is there anything else I should do? How about moving my MobiConnect to the new UUID? ...Fred Link to comment
Michel Kohanim Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 @FredT, I am so very sorry to hear. Here are the detailed instructions for migrating to a new ISY: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-994i_Series:Migrating_To_Your_ISY-994i And, yes, you do need to contact @InsteonNut to migrate your UUID on your MobiLinc account. With kind regards, Michel Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 This is rather surprising. I don't think I have ever seen someone on this forum have an ISY hardware failure. Link to comment
InsteonNut Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 @FredT Please contact us at support@mobilinc.com with your new ISY UUID and your MobiLinc Connect email so we can move your account/subscription over to your new ISY. Wes Link to comment
FredT Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 Thanks everyone for all the help. I got my new ISY in the mail last Friday. Installed the new unit and got every back up working and converted to Series 5 firmware in a couple of hours. I thought this process was going to be more painful, but it was a breeze. I was impressed by the close coordination between UDI and MobiLinc. I should have replied with the good news sooner. ...Fred Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 So I may have jinxed myself. My ISY appears to be in trouble. I tried to add a device but it wasn't adding it. Kept getting the progress bar over and over. I had to leave and when I came back a few hours later, it kept showing me the progress bar over and over saying "initializing" at a rapid rate (maybe 2hz). I tried power cycling ISY and now it doesn't show up on the IP network nor is it doing anything on the Insteon network (also didn't appear to be doing anything on Insteon network prior to the power cycle based on none of my lights being on based on sunset time). The blue led's all light up on with application of power and then a few seconds later they all shut off except the main power one. The Tx led just ever so slightly flickers about 2 hz. Seems like it is in some loop. I have a 12v power rail with a boat load of devices all running on it just fine, so it isn't a power supply issue. Not sure what the best first step is here. It was running 5.0.15. Replacing SD card? Not sure what it does with a boot up with a blank sd card. EDIT: To clarify, I also rebooted the PLM. And application of power does what I believe to be the normal led sequence. The first pwr blue led turns on, a few seconds later the other blue leds (tx/rx/mem) turn on (not exactly all at once), the mem one flickers blue like it is accessing memory during a boot up. After a few seconds more the tx/rx leds turn off and the tx one does that just barely flicker. EDIT 2: It's the PLM. Unplugged it from the plm and left it unplugged. Then ISY came back to life. Plug PLM back in, hangs it. Never heard of a plm hanging ISY. We had some bad thunderstorms last week and the PLM is the only thing not on a UPS/surge supressor. Though the whole house is on one. Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Just stopped by SH to look at new PLM. I was surprised to see the PLM plus the ISY994i pro IR/ZW combo price was only $179. What gives? That is less than they sell just the ISY by itself for. Are they unloading old PLM's with the ISY's or something? Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 I tried replacing caps on the dead plm. After replacing 3 of the 5 that my version had, it still didn't work. I don't have the other 2 on hand. I replaced them as marked and it still is doing the exact same behavior. So I plugged in my old PLM that I recapped several years ago and it is working. I was hoping to avoid re-writing the links to my entire network, but oh well. I just had to be patient. Not sure if I just need to replace the last 2 caps or if I am wasting my time. The green led is not on when plugged in either. It just does something to ISY that causes ISY to get trapped. I said earlier it was the tx led on isy that was flickering, but upon closer inspection (and putting my glasses on) it is the rx one. Link to comment
Brian H Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 C7 and C13 are the ones in the switching power supply. They should definitely be changed and be rated for switching power supplies. The originals size depended on what revision yours was. I know in a V2.4 they are 100uF/50V and lay sideways. As they where physically too large to fit in the boards mounting holes. The main board is double sided. It is possible a plated through hole between the two sides got accidentally pulled out. I did that on one of mine. PLM didn't work until I patched around the break I made. ? Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 4 hours ago, Brian H said: C7 and C13 are the ones in the switching power supply. They should definitely be changed and be rated for switching power supplies. The originals size depended on what revision yours was. I know in a V2.4 they are 100uF/50V and lay sideways. As they where physically too large to fit in the boards mounting holes. The main board is double sided. It is possible a plated through hole between the two sides got accidentally pulled out. I did that on one of mine. PLM didn't work until I patched around the break I made. ? I don't recall which 3 I replaced, but one of them was the substantially biggest of the bunch (not at home to look at it right now). This PLM I think was made in 2011 though I bought it and put it in service in April 2014 (Amazon). So 5 years is pretty good for a PLM, but still. None of the caps was mounted sideways. The backside of the main board on this plm may have a few components, but is mostly empty. The largest cap on the board is one that I replaced and its replacement had the same ratings but is physically quite a bit larger (though it fits). I'll look at the last 2 caps and see if I can replace them. The old PLM I put back into service is one I repaired, but for some reason the radio doesn't work. I only figured this out when I tried installing it in a situation where I only had radio devices (thermostats) and I couldn't communicate. But it seems to work fine in my home where I have about 60 dual band devices. Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 Does anyone know what the latest version is? Amazon is selling v 2.3 Link to comment
Brian H Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 I have a V2.4 and it was purchased awhile ago and is a spare at present. Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 On 6/11/2019 at 5:34 AM, Brian H said: C7 and C13 are the ones in the switching power supply. They should definitely be changed and be rated for switching power supplies. The originals size depended on what revision yours was. I know in a V2.4 they are 100uF/50V and lay sideways. As they where physically too large to fit in the boards mounting holes. The main board is double sided. It is possible a plated through hole between the two sides got accidentally pulled out. I did that on one of mine. PLM didn't work until I patched around the break I made. ? So I looked at it again. I replaced c7 but not c13. c13 is a 35v 10microF capacitor. Suggested replacement value? C7 I replaced with one of the same values which is 50v 10microF Link to comment
Brian H Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 When you order from Amazon. I have found that who you buy it from makes a difference. If it is sold and fulfilled by Amazon you should get the latest version Smarthome is selling V2.4. Unless Amazon also has old stock. If it is an Amazon merchant. You may get older stock. I used Low ESR 10uF/50V ones in mine. That originally had 10uF/35V. I actuality have a V1.0 that has 10uf/25V caps and rework to add the second capacitor and coil they found was needed. With fly wires and a few run cuts. My later V2.3 in use now has not gone bad yet and the V2.4 is in storage as a spare. Have the 100uF/50V. I don't think there where any other changes when C7 and C13 where changed to 100uF/50V. I would think 10uF/50V would work. I know someone here did substitute 100uf/50V for their 10uf/35V in and older revision and didn't report any strange effects. Link to comment
apostolakisl Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 27 minutes ago, Brian H said: When you order from Amazon. I have found that who you buy it from makes a difference. If it is sold and fulfilled by Amazon you should get the latest version Smarthome is selling V2.4. Unless Amazon also has old stock. If it is an Amazon merchant. You may get older stock. I used Low ESR 10uF/50V ones in mine. That originally had 10uF/35V. I actuality have a V1.0 that has 10uf/25V caps and rework to add the second capacitor and coil they found was needed. With fly wires and a few run cuts. My later V2.3 in use now has not gone bad yet and the V2.4 is in storage as a spare. Have the 100uF/50V. I don't think there where any other changes when C7 and C13 where changed to 100uF/50V. I would think 10uF/50V would work. I know someone here did substitute 100uf/50V for their 10uf/35V in and older revision and didn't report any strange effects. This plm is v1.5, so it is a bit older. EDIT: Replaced c13 now too. It is still dead. Think I'm done with this one. Link to comment
Techman Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 A while back orders placed from Amazon were shipped directly from Smarthome. Not sure if they're still following that procedure. Smarthome ships from Orange County, CA. Depending on where you're located it's possible that the order may ship from an Amazon fulfillment center. Link to comment
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