Load Controller Died - need parts and help

[agoltz]

Hi Guys

I hope everyone is safe and doing ok in these times. Just my luck that the water heater "died" this morning and when I went to look the Insteon load controller light was out.

See the attached image, but I will need to resolder several components I have circled in yellow (ceramic resistors?) and red (two relays TR91-24VDC-SC-C). I have a call in to buy the relays from a place in Boca Raton FL, but am not sure what kind of resistors those are.

Somewhat concerning when you see what the relays look like and you think that may have been a fire!

 

Thanks for any pointers on what to buy and where to buy it!

Alex

 

 

[Teken]

Hi Guys
I hope everyone is safe and doing ok in these times. Just my luck that the water heater "died" this morning and when I went to look the Insteon load controller light was out.
See the attached image, but I will need to resolder several components I have circled in yellow (ceramic resistors?) and red (two relays TR91-24VDC-SC-C). I have a call in to buy the relays from a place in Boca Raton FL, but am not sure what kind of resistors those are.
Somewhat concerning when you see what the relays look like and you think that may have been a fire!
 
Thanks for any pointers on what to buy and where to buy it!
Alex
 
 

The 240 Load Controller was one of the worst products released by Smartlabs. The concept was great but as always they chose to use the cheapest part available. The worst part is between the N.O vs N.C version which are identical besides the leads being placed on a different relay tab.

The company literally never updated the firmware or hardware on the one vs the other!!

I’m not in front of the load controller but that component split in half is probably a 10 watt power resistor given its size.


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[larryllix]

I wonder if anybody makes a heat sink for a tubular resistor like that to dissipate the heat and save future overheating. It could just use some heat sink grease and snap over a component.
Maybe the uneven heating might cause more thermal fractures though.

With a water heater is should be all resistive load so the design must have been just "on the edge"

[agoltz]

@Teken - any help in identifying the resistors is appreciated. Im not sure the actual colors (Red, Grey, Black = 28 Ohm and Silver Band 10%)??? Not sure on wattage or where to buy (and not even sure if the colors faded)

 

Thanks...... These things were crap but now Im stuck with them and want to "improve them"

 

[tmorse305]

I've never used one of these but based on the photo's the design looks a little light weight to be controlling the power to a water heater.  If you're handy, maybe consider using a contactor controlled by an appliance module. Mount the contactor in a metal box, wire it to the water heater.  Then add a standard power cord attached to the contactor coil and plug it into the appliance module.  Contactors are very reliable.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Noark-30-Amp-2-Pole-Definite-Purpose-Contactor-Ex9CK30B20G7/300809309?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-300813253-_-300809309-_-N

[mwester]

Do not repair that device -- it's clearly not appropriate for the purpose!  If you have the skills to replace those parts, then you have the skills to build a proper replacement too.

You'll want one of the Insteon micro on/off relays, and have that control a proper high-current relay.  I'd suggest using an HVAC Definite Purpose Contactor -- but you can also see if there's "Relay-in-a-box" that meets your load requirements.  Both products are readily available, on eBay, Amazon, and even at your local Grainger or other shop.

[Teken]

@Teken - any help in identifying the resistors is appreciated. Im not sure the actual colors (Red, Grey, Black = 28 Ohm and Silver Band 10%)??? Not sure on wattage or where to buy (and not even sure if the colors faded)
 
Thanks...... These things were crap but now Im stuck with them and want to "improve them"
 

I went into my NOS pile and cracked open a new unit. Both power resistors are the same value as seen here:







As others noted there are much better solutions while still using Insteon to control a 240 VAC load. Which offers higher reliability and longer service life.


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[agoltz]

thanks for the pics and the advice - Im going to take stock and see how to proceed.

 

[Brian H]

Take a look at the electrolytic capacitor just below the blown resistor. Your photo seems to show it has a swollen top. If it does it is probably failing. I looked at the FCC  Database photos of the bottom side of the PCB. Part numbers not clear but it looks like it has a small switching power supply IC. Maybe one of the Power Integration  LNK series. That would make me more suspicious  of the capacitor. As Smarthome seems to make poor choices of capacitor series in things like the 2413 PLM.

The blown resistor is a 27 Ohm 5%. I also am not too sure of its wattage. I have seen the same resistor in the 2456S3 original ApplianceLinc and other models . It is in series with the AC input into limit the current into the  power supply.

[Brian H]

Since the surge/safety resistor burned open. It is probably a flame resistant resistor. Used for safety related functions.

I would look at the back side of the PCB. Checking the diodes in the DC supply to the switching regulator. The high voltage filter capacitor on the switching regulators DC supply. The switching regulator IC for a short between the source and drain of its internal power FET. The filter capacitors in the switching supplies DC output running the module.

If you want  to replace the burned Insteon module. One choice would be an ELK  ELK-9200. It is in a metal case with a 120VAC line cord. You can wire the internal 30 Amp contactor to the  water heater and control it with an Insteon On/Off Module.  https://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-9200-heavy-duty-relay-contactor