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2 wire switches in a 3 pole


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Posted

has any one done this? I wonder as I have one switch that has to be hot for the light to come on.  Out of frustration, with standard switches, I just wired the one bypassing the switch so the other wasn't dependent on that one being on. So one switch is a dummy and the other works like a single pole.

I don't know if I should wire either with the loads capped or use the load on the switch on one and make the other controller responder via a scene?

any thoughts or insight would be appreciated 

Posted

The 2474 two wire switch. Steals it power through the load and designed for incandescent loads only. Other dimmable loads may or may not play nice with the switch. It is also Insteon RF only as it has no power line sending and receiving. It only has two power wires and ground. Line and Load no Neutral connection.

Not 100% on this but do remember seeing it also can not work in a three way setup.

Posted

2474DWH is the model.  I know I can make them controllers for each other. I guess I need to find the upstream hot and put the load on that and cap the red wire in the downstream is my thinking, but I can see having the downstream switch with the load wired also. I guess the scene will be doing the work in either configuration if I understand this correctly 

Posted

One of my outlets doesn't have a traveler so it's not a true three way.  Its been a couple years since I messed with them and I struggled for a few days trying to get standard 3 way switches to work. I think the second switch location is an ad hoc afterthought.

Posted

The 2474D has to get its power through the load and should NOT be wired to control an outlet. As a dimmer is not allowed to control an outlet where someone could plug in an incorrect load. Like a fan.

It only has a Black Line and Red Load wire. If you capped off the Red wire. It would have no way to get power.

Is the other switch an Insteon dimmer with the three wires? Black Line, White neutral and Red Load by chance?

 

Posted

No, sorry I told you wrong. I didn't remember correctly. There are traveler lines but no neutral at least in one box. I pulled that switch to see. The other had a traveler but was wired incorrectly so it is dependent on the upstream switch.  I would have to find the light where the power comes in and repurpose a line to make a functional neutral then just use the standard 2477D switch. Prior to your response I realized what youre saying about the downstream switch not getting power to function correctly. 

 

Thank you Brian for helping me sort this out. I was going off memory and now I have 2@2474 switches I need to return. And still need to find the light where the power comes in.  

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