Different Light Bulb Types and Impact on INSTEON

[Sub-Routine]

It does depend on the fixture (ballast). Both magnetic and electronic.

 

When you need to write changes to your KPL(s) turning off the fluorescent light could help communications.

 

Rand

 

Do regular fluorescent lights cause problems? Does it depend on the type of ballast (magnetic vs electronic) or the brand/quality of it?

 

I have been getting a flicker from one light fixture in my kitchen (incandescent load) and it is next to a fluorescent load. It's random and very quick, almost unnoticeable. Both loads are controlled by KPLs. A dimmer for the incandescent load and a relay for the fluorescent load.

 

Before insteon the fluorescent load ate through about three X10 relay switches over 3 years. The KPL has survived over a year now.

 

Those KPLs also take a very long time for ISY to program when I make a change compared to my other ones. I've sometimes had to restore them (and sometimes more than once) because a change didn't take. A painfully slow process.

 

 

 

 

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[johnnyt]

It does depend on the fixture (ballast). Both magnetic and electronic.

Any particular brands to buy, or to avoid?

[matapan]

Has anyone installed an LED for over 9 months yet?

 

I'm curious about a couple of things:

 

- Are LED's Insteon-friendly? Do they interfere with Insteon signals in a detrimental way?

- If not, do they degrade over time, like CFL's do?

- Did you get a dimmable LED bulb? Does it work well?

- How do you like the light output compared to Incandescent or Halogen?

[IndyMike]

Hello Matapan,

 

I've had 6 of the Utillitech 7.5W (40W equivalent) LEDs installed in my outdoor coach lights since May. Picked these up on sale at Lowes (~$10). They are inverted in the fixtures and have so far done well through the heat of summer.

 

1) The LED's are dimmable and are very linear down to ~10%.

2) I tested noise with a Switchlinc dimmer - the LEDs actually generate less impulse noise than a standard 60W incandescent. Noise comparison over here : http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/17552-more-led-bulb-options/page__view__findpost__p__158399

3) The color temperature is a bit on the cool side (don't remember the #'s - I'd estimate ~ 3200K). There fine for outdoors or for "task lighting". I would not use these in a family room.

4) Although they are a A19 shape, the light is rather directional. Would not work well in a table lamp - most of the light would go to the ceiling rather than being diffused through the shade.

 

I had been using dimmable CFL's in my outdoor fixtures. These were a constant maintenance problem - they generated noise and were affected by the outdoor temperature ( 95F to -10F). The LEDs have so far been a "set it and forget it" setup. We'll see how they perform this winter.

[matapan]

Nice to hear a positive review of LED's, IndyMike. I really dislike CFLs for the communication issues they create with Insteon. Also good to hear that LED's are coming down in price. $10! That's much better than the $28 - $50 I've seen in stores lately.

[jnaiser60]

I have been using LED for about a year now. I probably have about 40 or so thru my house. I have GU 10, MR 16, medium edison par 36 and lamp bulbs. My house is completely automated. Here is what I noticed:

Single bulb LED have a wider beam spread, and flicker less when dimmed. I have tried different brands and this seems to be the commonality. When they are left at less than 20% the flicker is caused by insteon traffic. This is a real annoyance....Especially if you have 12 motion detectors as I do.

 

Some of the first gen bulbs also hummed, but the newer ones do not. Also, the can kit, that comes as a complete unit, from Home depot, reacts and looks as if it were incandescent. No flicker, warms on dim, no hum. They were about 75.00 For lamps,

 

I like the sylvana bulbs for lamps. They are a unique design, with alternating yellow and silver on the bulb surface. Looks and works well. Puts out about the same as a 70 watt bulb.

 

Biggest problem for the indoor floods is the been spread. most are at 45 degrees. I like a little wider then that. Found them at Lowes. Most of the bulbs I bought off e-bay would not dim, regardless of what the seller said. For Floods, I like the ecosmart bulbs.

 

For GU10 and MR16, I like the phillips brand.

 

Good Luck!

 

Remember fewer bulbs in the bulb is better. seems the newer technology bulbs are moving towards less bulbs inside their units. Exampl are the phillips GU10. Same stock number, but the older ones have three bulbs, don't dim well, have a narrow spot, and a very white light. The newer ones are a single bulb, wider spot, warmer light and dims fine.......

[oceanman93]

I have LED floods installed in my kitchen and when dimmed even at 50%, I see the insteon traffic flicker (sometimes annoying but sometimes nice to see that things are working!) When at full brightness and they ARE bright, I don't see any flicker or insteon traffic impacts.

 

I wonder if there are any plans to create insteon devices that filter insteon traffic signals on the load side? I won't replace any more inside flood lights with LED lighting until this is addressed. I don't see any such flicker on incandescent flood lights, even at a low 10% brightness.

[Brian H]

If the LED flood lights are not made to be running on a dimmer. You can damage both the LED bulb and the SwitchLinc Dimmer.

 

Leviton makes a small 5 amp filter made to go behind a switch for noise.

If the noise is from the LED bulbs electronics no liking running on a dimmer. That also could be the problem.

[oceanman93]

They are dimmable They actually dim quite low and look similar to incandescent. I might try a dimmable ToggleLinc to see if there is any difference since I have an extra one lying around.

[Brian H]

Then it maybe they are generating some noise when dimmed.

One of my Ecosmart ones make noise when set to certain brightness levels.

[apostolakisl]

I have quite a few dimmable led's and none have been a problem. Most of mine are CREE CR6s but I also have some Phillips.