palayman

First mystery solved. Not sure what the main button is linked to.

Hi, I have a circuit in my man cave that has one six button keypad and 4 inline dimmers controlling lights. The breaker trips occasionally and I haven't been able to spot anything obviously tripping it. I have noticed that when I turn the light controlled directly by the dimmer in six button switch on that the light flashes red rather than green like my other similar switches. Don't see anything about a red light in the documentation. I have disconnected the circuit from the breaker and didn't find any obvious low resistances between the line, neutral and ground. Any tips or tricks in figuring this one out are appreciated. Paul

Speculating here that the probability of a bad bond between the neutral and ground, at the frequencies of interest to the spike or surge, are probably of the same order as the probability of being hit by a lightning strike.

I started using an Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA https://www.amazon.com/CHSPT2ULTRA-Ultimate-Protection-Length-Height/dp/B01AQAKRSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1551131394&sr=8-1&keywords=EATON+CHSPT2ULTRA after reading https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/10/whats-the-best-whole-house-surge-protection/ The Leviton, although good, does not protect against L-G and N-G faults among other things. Paul

I'm using some Hikvision cameras. Like you say, motion detection creates too many false alarms. However, I set up the line crossing mode and this works really well. Not many false alarms except for the occasional cat or opossum taking a stroll around the porch.

Strange, I get about 10 months out of those inside and 8 months out of the ones outside or in the fridge.

Was it hot when it was operating? Buried behind or underneath something? Failure mode sounds like high temp, not UV, accelerated aging. Breakdown rate of most plastics is an exponential function of temperature.

Another person had all their problems go away when they changed from theatre to theater. Stick with US spelling. Paul

Yes, I needed a black dimmer and could only find one on ebay, I think they have also discontinued the SIgnaLinc Phase Coupler, the DIN rail dimmers and the 240V load controller as I can't find them available.

@BumbershootI really like what you have done. I plan to move a couple of my wireless tags this weekend. I guess you could considered adding a wireless methane sensor as well ? There is a Z-Wave one around https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/2995

I wasn't so concerned about the system latency, rather the humidity detector itself. I have moved a tag into our MBR bath and will monitor for a few weeks. Thanks, Paul

I was concerned about latency. Do they react fairly quickly to humidity changes. I had thought about using some wireless tags for this. Paul

Smarthome or SmartLabs (insteon). I have been wondering the same thing about SmartLabs. I keep track at the FCC applications. (https://fccid.io/SBP ) Haven't seen anything really new since the motion sensor in 2016. They were purchased by a large investment house a while ago. Claim was that they were going to pour some capital in, but I don't see it. A number of items have been discontinued. Have contacted the investment company to see if they are up for sale, but claim they aren't.

I thought that was what he was trying to do all along.

Is that LEDNET or LEDENET?

Not sure that you can. You can write a program that links the Off control action of the button to turning off the other scenes.

https://www.phyn.com/product/

Color arrived on a recent update. Haven't tried it out though.

I don't think you set it using the ISY. Like you I found the manual confusing. Set it to latching using the buttons on the relay and make sure it is on when you are finished. I think that's all you have to do.

It would help if you could be more specific about the keypad you're using and the scene or program you have implemented. I also know that the latching mode can have two variations - ON to open or ON to close. From the manual: Latching (Continuous) 1) Tap the Set button on I/O Linc to set the relay to the desired state. For example, if you want an ON command to open the relay, set the relay to be open. If you want an ON command to close the relay, set the relay to be closed. The I/O Linc Status LED will be dim if the relay is open or bright if the relay is closed

I did figure out if you put the string used by YouTube to Access the video into your google home routine you can get a particular video to play. I imagine you could cast it as well. For example for the video you get it to play by putting "Play kmkQ-HF6IdQ on YouTube" into your routine Action.

Could be. When I tested yesterday I was using a custom location.

Have one 4.7.3 system, EST. Showing correct time using ntp (pool.ntp.org). Tried 0.pool.ntp.org and it's still fine.

OK, I had a look at them in the event viewer using them to monitor some Insteon commands. Problem is they don't seem to line up time sequence wise with the Insteon commands. They seem to pile up and get recorded in the log in a group sometime after.

I think the lights and fans are fine in most rooms. I'm thinking about things like curtains and whole home audio that they're probably aren't familiar with and have no buttons. Apps are not likely installed on the theirs phones, but with a little instruction are readily available via voice command. Yes, better to spend my time creating enormous programs that monitor occupancy. ? Have you seen Project Alias? http://bjoernkarmann.dk/project_alias