apostolakisl

I get that, but I find it surprising that UD would not have managed their supply times better knowing all that, unless the manufacturer had supply chain issues, but then I would expect that I wouldn't be able to get it on Amazon. Perhaps there is some unique hardware component the UD wanted that went on backorder.

Curious that it is available overnight on Amazon and UD is backordered.

Steps: 1) In ISY's main page, find the old switch and remove it from any folders it might be in and place it in the root folder. Just the switch itself, not any scenes. 2) Join the new switch to ISY - put ISY in linking mode by hitting the swirly arrow icon and then - press and hold the tab on the new switch for a few seconds until it beeps - the new switch should pop up on the admin console, tell it to go ahead and join ISY and erase any info on it already. You can name the switch if you like, or just leave it with the address. Whatever you do, just make note of the name. 3) Right click on the old switch and select "replace with" and then select your new switch. 4) ISY will automatically go through and write all the info to all the switches involved with that switch. It make take a bit (seconds up to maybe a minute) depending on how many scenes it was in. 5) Restart your admin console 6) The new switch will now have the name of the one it replaced. You can drag and drop it into any folder it might have been in before.

You do have the advantage here that you are wiring just swapping out one device for another where they are basically identical. So there should not be any confusion. Just be certain that you have shut the breaker off, as mentioned. Insteon devices don't like if you wire them hot and get sparks. As an extra precaution, I always pull the hard disconnect on the device while wiring it in.

You would have to have a pretty old device to have the bad tact switches in them. Smarthome replaced every switch in my house under warranty for that like 15 years ago. I haven't had any of the replacements do that. The switches have a date code on them on a sticker that is visible if you take the switchplate cover off. It will be a year and week. I forget what order, but it would be something like 3422 meaning the 34th week of 2022. Ot maybe it would be 2234. As you know, the 2476ST isn't made anymore, but it isn't necessary. Use programs in ISY to do your timing rather than having the switch natively do it. A 2477S is a relay switch (on/off only, no dimming) designed for controlling things that shouldn't have dimming at all (motors/fluorescent lights). 2477S is also a dual band, so it uses radio and power line communication which makes it much more reliable.

Might do it this way depending on your needs. This mod to the program above causes the counter to trigger on you setting the variable to whatever time period you want to wait. Shouldn't need two programs (depending on how you are setting the variable for countdown) as this program won't re-trigger unless you change the value of that variable mid count, in which case I assume you would want it to start over. In summary, the below program runs as soon as you set the variable $chosenvartowait to any positive number. It will then count every second until it reaches that number. Obviously, change your wait time to minutes or hours or whatever if you want to count those instead. Also note, I moved the wait 1 second line up above the add 1 to the variable line. I think it would terminate 1 second too soon otherwise. And I moved the reset of the counter variable to the first line ensuring if you change the variable mid count it will reset it. ID - [ID 0058][Parent 0093] If If $chosenvartowait > 0 (need to setup this variable as a state variable) Then $countervar = 0 Repeat While $countervar < $chosenvartowait Wait 1 second $countervar += 1 Repeat 1 times Set whatever you want to happen Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I don't know of any way to do that directly. The best I can think of is to use "repeat while" as guy mentioned and then set a program to count. Something like ID - [ID 0058][Parent 0093] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then (optional line here to disable triggering program) Repeat While $countervar < $chosenvartowait $countervar += 1 Wait 1 second Repeat 1 times Set whatever you want to happen $countervar = 0 (optional line here to re-enable triggering program) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') You just have to make sure whatever you put in your "if" section doesn't re-trigger and cancel the wait midstream leaving the countervar at some counted up value. You may make this two programs and have this program be disabled and have the first program run this program and set this program to disable then re-enable the first program.

did you try a reboot of the whole thing? I usually use putty to login (admin/admin) then enter the command "sudo reboot" Or if you want to really make sure, I believe the command is "sudo shutdown", let the unit shutdown and then pull power for 30 seconds.

If linking mode isn't working, then you either have a faulty switch or a seriously bad communication issue. You can try manually adding as per Paul, but I suspect that won't work. And if it does work, then it means something is wrong with the switch since it isn't declaring itself in linking mode. I assume you are holding the set button in long enough until the switch beeps indicating it entered linking mode.

Switching to a new, dual band, device usually fixes any com issues, especially ones that aren't horrible. My bet though is that the age of that switch is the problem, which of course is also fixed with a new replacement. I have found that the old single band devices seem to become less sensitive to the power line signal as they age. I have some very old devices that monitor power draw (I forget what they are called), but they don't make them anymore so I can't replace them. I use them to tell when the washing machine has finished. Anyway, as they got older, the com failure rate kept climbing until they stopped working altogether, but discovered if I plug it in directly next to the plm, they worked. I ended up using a dual band appliance linc that I plugged it directly into (in series) and that fixed the com issue. But the point is, it needed that strong of a signal, basically a couple inches of wire between it and the appliance linc as a repeater.

That looks like a nice all-in-one package. I could make one that does the same thing for less than $100 including the Insteon switch, but if you don't want to be troubled . .. Of course you still have to install the thing so you kind of are already being troubled. The contactors for HVAC equipment would be perfect for this and are only about $10 and a nice waterproof j-box can be had for about $15. The make these j-box's with mounting plates in the back which is real nice so you can just screw down all your stuff with no fuss and have it look all nice and neat. It wouldn't have the switch on the outside though, you would have to open the door, but they come with hinged doors, so no big deal.

theoretically, at some point we will get a http GUI that runs on the Polisy/Eisy box. Perhaps the Eisy will perform better when this task is layered on top? But I wouldn't think it would matter unless they really do something fantastic with the self-hosted web interface (like video and live action stuff vs just a console similar the java one).

I can't imagine what the mechanism could have been for Eisy to inhibit local manual operation of a switch. It was my understanding the local control of a switch was independent of any Insteon communication. Perhaps some flood of data between eisy and the switch upon pressing the button that swamped the switch cpu. It would have been curious to have watched the traffic on eisy.

I would start with one of your mis-behaving switches. Factory reset it and then restore it from ISY. Pull the tab out, leave it out for 10 seconds, then in one motion, push the tab in, all the way in, and hold it there for a good bit. The device will start to beep, don't let go, keep holding it in until the beep stops. That should factory reset it. Then go to ISY and restore it. I find it easier to use a butter knife to push the tab in and hold it with for the 10 or 15 seconds it takes to factory reset.

Thank you for that. The video only showed webhooks in the protect section, I assume nothing yet in access. I don't use ubiquiti protect, only network and access. EDIT: AS it turns out, I do "use" protect because they have integrated the door card reader cameras into protect.

I'm pretty sure on a 2477s, that if the led goes to the top, the load is on. Also, you would hear the relay inside click if it turns on. If both of those things happen, then I suspect the load is connected to a different switch.

When you manually walk up to the switch and click it. Do the led's on the switch rise up to the top indicating it should be on? Are you sure the load is connected to that switch and not another switch that you have in a scene with it? Certainly Insteon switches can fail and simply don't send power to the load. But if the load turns on when using Alexa, the switch is obviously not failed in that way. Some switches have failed where the tact switch no longer connects and thus when you push the button the computer in the switch doesn't know you pushed it. But that is a problem with much older switches and to my knowledge none of the dual band switches.

How do you transfer your settings from your phone to this? I have exported the ud mobile to my pc, but can't import them from blue stack emulator. EDIT: I figured out an easy way. I installed gmail in the blue stacks emulator and then emailed the file to myself and downloaded it from gmail within the emulator and then it was in the emulator download folder. Trouble is, when I tried to install the backup, it said there was a version conflict. I signed up for the beta version on my phone, I have now signed up for it in the emulator. Waiting to see if that works. EDIT 2: That worked.

This program will be false at startup (if set to run at startup). setting it to run at startup wont accomplish anything unless you intend to run the else clause.

Blank if will run true at startup if set to run at startup.

I would only add that the first time you need to manually run the first program. "run then". Since it is set to run at startup, any reboots will automatically get it going. As an alternative, you can install the time data node. Using that, you can have it run at a specific schedule rather than on a loop starting whenever the program first ran. In this case, no need to run at startup. Below is an example to run at the top and bottom of the hour, every hour. If 'TimeData' Minute is 0 minute Or 'TimeData' Minute is 30 minute Then Run Program '2' (If) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

One of my pool pumps uses LV signaling to set the 4 speeds. I use a CAI webcontrol board which outputs 5v on the 4 signal wires to set the speeds. CAI has a plugin node for ISY. I wrote some programs and created some shortcuts in my pool favorites folder to create "radio buttons" where you can hit any of the speeds and it will turn off any other speed that might already be on. If your pump is just a simple on/off because it either is getting power or not, then I would use a high current relay to switch the pump that uses 120vac for the coil and then use an outdoor Insteon switch to control the relay. That is how I control an aerator for my pond.

Basically there are two things that can happen here. 1) messed up links in a device, but ISY links table correct 2) Messed up ISY links table. 1) Is easy to fix, factory reset the device and restore it from ISY You can very quickly do that to bunches of devices and I would just go ahead and do it, not just to a misbehaving device but all related devices, even most of the devices in your house. Also don't forget the plm is a device with links on it that could be incorrect. 2) is harder to fix. Delete devices from ISY, factory reset devices, add back to ISY and re create all the scenes and re-add to any programs. I have seen both, but number 2 has only happened to me once a very very long time ago and was probably related to when I first added ISY to my system and already had devices programmed manually and then imported them to ISY.

PM sent.

I feel your pain. I have seen similar ghost links. The only way to get rid of them as far as I can tell is to completely delete all involved devices from ISY, factory reset them, and bring them back into the fold from scratch. I found that shooting screen shots of all the scenes and whatnot from the admin console of ISY makes recreating the scenes again much easier. Same holds for any programs. This is an issue I had many years ago and seemed to have been a result of devices that died and needed to be replaced as well as moving devices around. I have not had issues like this in over a decade.