apostolakisl

Funny that I push an Insteon button on a wall 10 feet from a ceiling fan and the fan turns on, but the signal first goes to Germany, then to an Amazon server (wherever that is), then to the fan company server (wherever that is), and then back to my house. And it works every time. How many thousands of miles do you suppose? Edit. And if I used UD mobile logged in via portal, you would add a new first step where it goes to UD server and then back to my house ISY.

I have had perfect success using a webhook setup and an Alexa plugin. I don't recall that it has ever failed. There is a skill for Alexa and then you create webhooks on here: https://trigger.esp8266-server.de/ You use a network resource to send the webhook. EDIT: I just went to that website and, if I don't log in, the creator says it is broken, but it isn't, at least for me. I use it everyday and I even added more webhooks to it just a month or two ago. Not sure if it is possible to currently add it to your Alexa or not, but for me with it already there it works great and I am able to keep adding more. I have about 20 as is. EDIT 2: It looks like Alexa still has the skill for you to add. You do have to use the primary amazon account and once you add your webhooks, you tell Alexa to discover devices and then the webhook shows up as a device that you can use to trigger whatever you want on an Alexa routine. At that point, you basically just send the url to the internet from a network resource or just put it into a web browser and usually in less than 1 second it is doing its thing.

To further this, it is not just Elk. It is seemingly random nodes across the entire system. Insteon nodes, PG3x nodes, Nodes from IoGuy Nodelink. I see no pattern to it. @Javi Example: Admin console on local connection: Admin console as viewed via portal login at the exact same time from different PC:

Exactly. @Javi This has been going on for at least a couple weeks. It is consistently the same nodes that don't work while other nodes that seemingly should be identical work fine. The first place I noticed it is a perfect example. I have shortcuts setup for my garage door and my wife's garage door. Both are Elk zones (zone 22 and 34). On different expansion boards, but I don't think that is a reason. When the doors are closed or open I have to change the color of the icon from red to green. So I quickly noticed that the icon was neither, but rather the default blue. Every now and then, it would populate, say "closed or open" and set the color, but typically, just blue. My wife's door, always populates. It will populate on occasion. It seems like the way to have that happen is to have the admin console open or have UD mobile open, and then change the status of the node. It will populate, but it doesn't stay populated for long. Certainly won't stay populated if you close your session and open again. Here it is: And then there is also the 0 and 1 for Elk status instead of armed/disarmed/etc which, as far as I an tell, is a different issue with the newer firmwares.

I can confirm same on ud mobile. I switched to local settings and now it populates everything.

So I have isolated the problem to logging in via the portal user/password. Anything that uses the portal (UD Mobile and admin console not using port 8080). For example. This screenshot is from logging in using port 8080 admin/password @bmercier And simultaneously on another computer using the portal login.

Recently, perhaps with a recent update, elk module no longer reports any of my keypads, except maybe a parameter shows up and then goes away, and a handful of zones show no status. I see no pattern to the zones not showing. If I open elk rp2 all status is there. If I query, it might temporarily report voltage. I restarted the node which didn't help. I really don't want to delete and re add the node because of all the reorganizing I did with folders and names for the various things that would all need to be redone.

If the power flickering/going out/coming on, may have resulted in the switches shutting down and then booting up without the proper power environment leading to incorrectly set RAM(I assume Insteon switches have RAM). As we all know, power supplies have capacitors that keep our electronics running for a few seconds even when power is removed. But as the capacitors charge decays, the voltage and current supplied is sub-optimal. So power coming on for a second after shutting down and then going out for a second would allow the boot to continue but with incorrect power during that sensitive time of booting. That would be my guess as to why the flickering power resulted in misbehaving switches and a proper boot fixed it.

@Ross Yeah, those temp intervals are way too big to be of any use tracking a refrigeration system. Basically, it would only be helpful to tell me if the unit failed completely. Thanks for taking the time to look that up.

I just tried edge and it is the same. was using chrome.

I tried collapsing the folder tree down and after closing the first few, as soon as I clicked on about the fifth one down, they all popped back open again. Happens every time. Not seeing the same thing with nodes, but nodes aren't in folders. EDIT: seems to be a time thing. About 5 seconds after collapsing a folder, it pops back open.

Can you tell me if the Caseta control is cloud based or local?

Can you set the temp interval or is it predefined? I could make this work just fine if I could set it to something like .5 degrees F. Anything that takes a replaceable battery can be "hot wired" to an external power supply, I have done this many times, sometimes more invasively with soldering and whatnot, but usually I just cut a piece of dowl wood ~1/8 inch shorter than the length of a AA or AAA battery and drive screws into the ends that I use as screw down terminals for wires. I run the wire out a small notch I make in the battery door and connect to an external power supply.. For example, is something uses 2 AA batteries in series, I just put one screw in the end of each of 2 dowls and arrange the dowels such that it provides the 3v across the two correct end points. Then I plug into a 3v power source. 3v power supplies aren't so common, but they exist. If it is a 3 battery setup I will usually use a 5v power supply.

. I have 10 wireless tags and have never had to physically reboot any of them. I must be on at least 10 years on the oldest ones. I have had to do a "reset states" a few times. Though it has been a long time since that has been needed. Not sure if wireless tag changed something or just random timing. 4 of these are inside walkin coolers which are substantial 6 walled metal boxes and the signal gets through. I have all of them set to 30 second updates which gives me the resolution needed to track compressor and evaporator behavior precisely. Dealing with the refrigerator repair guy trying to tell you he fixed something and being able to prove he didn't has been very valuable.

OK. I really don't have any issues with wireless tags, except not working with ISY anymore, at least the one hub. I think I am going to hold off. Changing batteries once per year is really something I am not interested in doing. I have lots of these in various locations and hooked them up to USB specifically because I had no interest in running that situation down. I have two other hubs in other locations that are still sync'd to ISY and, provided nothing happens to PG, they should stay that way. Hopefully this authorization issue will get worked out at some point.

Perhaps. I have all of my wirieless tags on usb power so that isn't an issue. I have on occasion had issues where I had to reset the wireless tags for whatever reason which was annoying. I haven't had one of those issues in quite a while, though, so perhaps they fixed something in the firrmware. EDIT: I have the wireless tags set to 30 second updates which with it on usb power is no issue. I really like having the 30 second updates as I use these to monitor walkin fridges and freezers and having that smooth non-skipping temp graph has been very helpful in diagnosing issues. Will yo-link do resolution like that? And if so, will that kill the battery? I see they use 2x aa or aaa which is 3v. So I can't just plug them into the USB POE adapters I'm using for them now. I guess I could stop using POE and just plug 3v into the cat6 wire at the source and run that 3v directly into the battery terminals inside the units, but that is a lot of jury rigging. I also really like the wireless tag graphing they do on their app and website. Does Yo-link have all the features for zooming in/out changing scale and whatnot like wireless tag?

Seems to have fixed it, but I had to clear my browser cache. Initially I was getting a 404 error.

I can see my programs, but like the others, node status is all empty.

I have the same thing on a Polisy. Added Sensibo node on pg3x and it shows up 3 times. I deleted and readded the node and same thing. I rebooted polyglot and same thing. It wasn't until I rebooted polisy that the issue corrected.

I would get yourself a spare PLM. The caps aren't the only thing that fails on those older PLM's. Having a spare PLM will prevent delay should your PLM (when your PLM) fails. You wouldn't want to have your PLM fail and discover that the PLM's are on backorder or something.

You aren't so much migrating as you are replacing. You aren't going to have both running as you migrate over from one to the other. This should be thought of as a remove and replace. I don't know anything about the 2413UH. It is the "H" part that is unusual and I'm not sure how that will come to play here. But I would not use it. I would continue to use your same PLM, otherwise you will need to re-write links to your entire network and PLM. Get the cable that converts the rj45 on the plm to usb or If you have the DB9/rj45 that came with the PLM, then I would just get the device I linked from Amazon, it is cheap and comes fast and works exactly as it should. You don't need to do anything to your 994 except back it up. Once it is backed up, you are done with it, no need to change any settings on it. Just unplug it. Your Eisy will be on DHCP by default and actually it doesn't even allow a static IP assignment. I would suggest you use your router's DHCP assignment such that it assigns your Eisy the same IP that your 994 was on. It may not matter, but if you have any other devices that link to ISY by that IP address, you won't have to reconfigure them. Also, with a static DHCP assignment, your Eisy will always be given the same IP making it easy to find on your network should you need to SSH into it or manually enter the IP address for whatever reason. Routers do generally keep giving the same device the same IP even if you don't reserve it, but not for necessarily. If you reserve the IP, it will 100% for sure. Typically, if you only have an Insteon network, it really is just a matter of backing up 994, removing it, booting up Eisy with the same PLM you used on 994, and then restoring the backup. You may need to resave network resources if you have any of those, that was something we had to do after updating the eisy firmware to 6.0, if you start right from 6.0, you may not need to. If you have polyglot running on a rpi, you will need to reboot that and I believe you need to change the port number to 8080. Assuming you told your router to use the same Ip as 994, you can leave that setting. Eisy has PG3x built into it, so you may choose to migrate polyglot to that, but you don't have to. PG2 is no longer supported so eventually as the world changes, you will likely need PG3. Finally, if you use the portal, you will need to add the eisy to your account, and then move your subscription from the 994 to the eisy.

Sorry, you're right. It is polisy that uses the db9.

He must already have the Insteon supplied serial cable with rj45 and db9 with correct pin out. How else would a 2413s connect to a 994? That cable combined with the cable from Amazon works, I am using it right now. And it is same day delivery, at least for my address.

You can use that one or you can use one that converts usb to DB9 and continue to use your current wire. That is what I did. Amazon shipped same day, didn't want to wait.

Just had a frustrating time with Google Home not wanting to connect to UD. It had been connected with my Polisy and when I moved over to Eisy it lost the connection and would not reconnect, often times giving no error, it just closed the login screen as if I had never logged in. The solution was simple, just uninstall and reinstall Google Home. Of note, the settings I had in Google home were not lost doing this. Also of note, I have two ISY's on the account. If you want Google Home (and Alexa) to see both ISY's, go to the far upper right corner of the portal web page under profile and select Use All ISY's for Google Home and Amazon.