apostolakisl

Seriously, is this what you are doing? Home running every single fixture? Running pex directly into the toilet or sink? How are making these observations a bother?

And voids the warranty.

You said you wanted to stop your kids from taking 30 minute showers. I guess you'll just go in there and turn it off by hand, or yell at them? Certainly I've done the latter. Maybe you can time their showers and make a spreadsheet and base their allowance off of it?

I suppose then you mean my plumber used the wrong fittings. But he did not. Failure rates are not zero for anything. I've got to see how you are going to set up your house without using a single elbow or t. I guess you are going to have a manifold at the main house valve with a home run line to every single individual water using device so as to avoid any T fittings? Even in a small house, that would probably be 50 pipes. Easily could be over 100 in a larger house with washing machines, dish washers, multiple kitchen sinks, 6 or 7 lines to each bathroom, multiple refrigerators, utility sinks, hose bibs, and so on and so on. You say it is a ranch, so I guess if you are going in your attic, and your attic is inside the house insulation envelope. You can turn the corner easily to go down the walls from the attic, yes. But there is no way you are going to turn out at the wall for your sink, toilet, and at similar locations. The standard is to crimp on to a copper pipe that mounts to the stud and pokes through the wall for your sink or toilet valve attachment. Pex won't do a 90 turn in 3.5 inches and even if it did, you still have to crimp onto a valve, and if you were to do that, you would have the flexible blue/red pipe poking through the wall looking a little goofy and not very stable since pex flexess. But no matter what, you still have to do a crimp of some sort at least once.

You just put a wait in the program. So if it turns back on again in less than the time allowed, the program that send the text message terminates. So, in fact, I don't get a text message the second the washer finishes, I (by I, I mean my wife) gets the text message 3 minutes later.

Not sure how it gets rid of T's since those are for turning 1 line into 2. It does reduce the number of elbows, but the turn radius on pex still requires the use of elbows in a lot of locations.. It is my opinion that the crimping on of fittings in pex is less secure than copper. I have never had a solderd fitting come apart, I did have a pex fitting come apart in a wall in my house. The metal band snapped, for reasons I can not explain. Fortunately I had a water sensor pick that up and it kept the damage to a bare minimum. I have had pin hole leaks in copper. I have never had that in pex. If burst pressure is an issue, God help you. Both copper and pex will never come close to bursting at 60psi, so something would be very very wrong if you are having to worry about that. Personally, I love pex, mostly because it is good stuff and is cheaper, but if cost were no concern, I would have put copper in my house.

Didn't know it did that.

I have to wonder why you would remove copper lines? Pex isn't better than copper, it is just cheaper, both for the materials and for the installation, so it pretty much has taken over new construction. But if your copper is already paid for and installed, I don't know why you would switch it out. Are you tearing out walls and and have to move the plumbing? I'm sure you are annoyed by your kids wasting hot water, but I'm also thinking that putting a shut off valve to each bathroom is going to cost way more than any savings on your hot water bill. The cheapest valves I have seen are the ones SH sells for $100/ea and you still need a flow monitor and an interface to get that signal to ISY. . . .probably another $100. So $200 per shower times however many showers. I only spend $500 on propane for my entire family of 5 every 2 or 3 years (usually buy about 300 gallons at about $1.75/gal). Any valve for residential use will be rated for hot water use. The flow switch . .. who knows, each one will have its own deal.

If you use a tankless water heater you can put a synchrolinc on the water heater power supply. All the tankless models I have seen have a fan running while the burner is on which a syncrholinc would be able to monitor.

Sounds to me like your starting from scratch, mostly. You can export your entire set of programs and import them back. But as far as scenes, you can't do that. When you import the programs, I think it will drop the same devices back into each program, but I'm not 100% on that. I've never exported and then imported back into my own system. When I import someone else's programs, I have to go through and specify all the devices, but of course you would expect that. If you take some screen shots of your scenes and folder architecture, it probably won't take that long to rebuild, especially if you have the pro-isy model where you can delay the write. And if your going to the trouble, you should factory reset all your devices and truly have a clean start. THEN MAKE A BACKUP AND SAVE IT IN 2 PLACES!!!! put it on google drive or something.

This is for the drier. The washer is easy, I just plugged it into a synchrolinc and tweaked the settings until it gave the proper on/off status.

That flapper is from Lowe's and if memory serves me, listed for both gas and electric. But gas is going to be 120v and you can just use a synchrolinc.

There is this. http://www.bonanza.com/listings/G3-4-Male-Threaded-1-30L-min-Magnetic-Type-Water-Flow-Switch-Flowmeter-DC-250V/255554134?goog_pla=1&gpid=18283950120&keyword=&goog_pla=1&pos=1o2&ad_type=pla&gclid=CjwKEAjwydK_BRDK34GenvLB61YSJACZ8da3fG9YS46Nr4D0Yg0LNFoqufg7byqa1idm9mMnPMe5ExoCQuPw_wcB Brass made in China, probably not code in US. I saw similar ones on amazon and there were complaints about it not be NPT and about water flow restriction. You would need an IO linc to make this thing communicate. If it were me, I would go with a pulse counter and a CAI board. That combo would be cheaper and you would get the added info of flow rate, even if it didn't really matter. It would be a very simple program to write on CAI to post to a variable the current flow rate. Every 5 seconds or so it could post a REST value to a variable showing the flow rate, in the event that the flow rate changed. You wouldn't have it keep posting "0" every 5 seconds, only if it changed. That is what I speaking of a ways back. If I were going to get this, I would install it on the main house feed and get the benefit of a whole house water protection.

On = pulses happening off = no pulses You still need to count pulses or at least measure the length of time since the most recent pulse to know flow vs no flow

Just thought I would update on this. I have had this working for about 6 months now and it is proving to be a success.

This will help with pulse counting using CAI. http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/22252-how-to-count-pulse-from-water-flow-or-energy-meter/

To the best of my knowledge, no insteon device is capable of pulse counting. You would also need to use something like a raspberry pi or cai webcontrol board with code written on it that monitors the pulse count, makes sense of it, then posts to ISY something that you can base an ISY program on.

There are whole house water leak detection/shut off systems that both monitor flow and shut off the water. They have a cpu that runs algorithms for what normal water usage patterns are and if they detect a pattern that looks like a leak or broken line, they shut the water off. Unlike using a water detector, these algorithms do not shut the water off right away. However, unlike if you use leak sensors, this will shut the water off if your leak is somewhere you don't have a sensor. My bet is that if you had left your hose running for an hour, it would have shut the water off. Obviously, it can't shut the water off too fast, because you might have actually wanted the water running for say 20 or 30 minutes.

Your PLM probably needed new capacitors which would have saved you doing a restore. At any rate, if you don't care to replace the capacitors yourself, I'm sure someone on here would pay you to ship your old one to them for them to do the repair and have a spare.

That sounds about right for my first one. My second one died and the led was off. Both fixed with cap replacement. I probably have a year of use now on the one replacement, the other I did a 24 hour burn-in and put away as a backup.

I think one of the two I have fixed still had the led on, or at least partially lit. I still think you have a 99% chance that the caps are bad.

Replace the capacitors, 99% chance it comes back to life.

In short. There is only way connecting that black wire to neutral could work. It must be the neutral leaving the load (the light). Anything else would have popped the circuit breaker. The problem could likely be fixed quite easily by opening the box at the light and splicing the correct wires together.

check the box where the actual light is. It sounds like you are running power backwards somewhere, in on white and out on black.

2 wire insteon only works with an incandescent and "leaks" a little power through the load wire to the light bulb to power the switch itself. It is like setting the dimmer on .01% or something. The filament will be ever so slightly warmed up, but it won't light.