simplextech

Default max log size is 3MB. You can configure this from the telnet interface of the ISY. I don't let mine get large and i clear it nightly unless I'm having problems then I disable that program so I can collect and look through the logs.

Homebridge see's ISY devices... Home Assistant see's ISY devices... ISY does not see devices from either of those two....If you have a ceiling fan that Homekit is aware of then it is probably Wifi but I doubt their API is open to other integrations otherwise Home Assistant would directly support the ceiling fan and probably other systems as well.

No info/ideas/clue about HomeKit. I don't have a HomeKit setup. @EddieRockyes you will have to setup again. I'm hoping things with Polyglot change in time but because the profile changed it would have to be re-added this is unfortunately a PGC issue currently that I'm hoping gets resolved some day.

Welcome. Let me know if something else isn't working quite right.

Beta Release v0.1.36 has been pushed to the store. Because of the changes to the profile you should do a delete/install from Polyglot Cloud to ensure the nodes are updated in the ISY fully. Changes Updated profile to use direct editor and not the editor file for UOM specifications Provides text entry option instead of drop down for temperature settings Now visible/usable in programs for status

Interesting. Looking at things the only difference between the energy log nodes and the thermostat node is actually the item I was questioning... the unit measures having both. I'm questioning if that is causing it to not return a usable status because there probably isn't a usable one that the ISY knows how to handle. Hmm.. so much for a short cut on node definitions. I'll do some tweaking and testing to get this figured out.

A controller node "NuHeat" and a node for the actual thermostat device is created. Make sure in your program you're selecting the correct device. SetPoint can be set in a program. The list provides Celsius and Fahrenheit options just scroll to the temp. I think I need to change this to be a input value. Undecided as I the increments are 1 degree increments from what the thermostat accepts. This also accommodates both unit types. Hmm.. input is welcome

Polyglot Cloud version is available and live. I'm running it in my home and @EddieRockis testing it out as well. This currently and conceivably will only be available in Polyglot cloud for these reasons The API is from a cloud system. If you don't have internet then a local nodeserver won't work either so then why does it matter if the nodeserver is ran in Polyglot Cloud? The OAuth process requires a registered publicly accessible encrypted URL for user authentication and token exchange. I can't create a developer account for every single user's possible self hosted URL and I don't think most people will go through the process of registering for developer access nor will they have a SSL encrypted public facing URL they can use for the redirect. I don't know how the Ecobee works or flair. Some systems don't require a user authenticated web process and you can pass the username/password to the API directly and get a token. I'm still investigating if I can do this with NuHeat but until then it's Polyglot Cloud. I have asked and will continue to ask them for a local API. If that ever happens then a local version will be developed. I'm a small shop with little backing/support (just me so far) so nobody listens to me

There's a rate limit imposed by Amazon on sensor triggers. I think it's 30 seconds in between.

I think you can still buy the network module by itself. It really would be odd not to considering not everyone uses the ISY Portal but still use network resources.

You can't call curl directly from python. curl is a linux/unix utility. I recommend using the 'requests' python module. Here's a page on how to use it with basic auth https://2.python-requests.org/en/master/user/authentication/

@Chris Jahnsame failure with leak sensors. Here's some data for you. <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <nodeInfo> <node flag="128" nodeDefId="BinaryAlarm_ADV"> <address>4E 29 71 1</address> <name>Kitchen Leak Sensor-Dry</name> <parent type="3">1964</parent> <type>16.8.68.0</type> <enabled>true</enabled> <deviceClass>0</deviceClass> <wattage>0</wattage> <dcPeriod>0</dcPeriod> <startDelay>0</startDelay> <endDelay>0</endDelay> <pnode>4E 29 71 1</pnode> <ELK_ID>H02</ELK_ID> <property id="ST" value="" formatted=" " uom="0" /> </node> <properties> <property id="ST" value="" formatted=" " uom="0" /> </properties> </nodeInfo> <node flag="0" nodeDefId="BinaryAlarm_ADV"> <address>4E 29 71 2</address> <name>Kitchen Leak Sensor-Wet</name> <parent type="1">4E 29 71 1</parent> <type>16.8.68.0</type> <enabled>true</enabled> <deviceClass>0</deviceClass> <wattage>0</wattage> <dcPeriod>0</dcPeriod> <startDelay>0</startDelay> <endDelay>0</endDelay> <pnode>4E 29 71 1</pnode> <ELK_ID>H03</ELK_ID> <property id="ST" value="" formatted=" " uom="0" /> </node> <node flag="0" nodeDefId="BinaryAlarm_ADV"> <address>4E 29 71 4</address> <name>Kitchen Leak Sensor-Heartbeat</name> <parent type="1">4E 29 71 1</parent> <type>16.8.68.0</type> <enabled>true</enabled> <deviceClass>0</deviceClass> <wattage>0</wattage> <dcPeriod>0</dcPeriod> <startDelay>0</startDelay> <endDelay>0</endDelay> <pnode>4E 29 71 1</pnode> <ELK_ID>H04</ELK_ID> <property id="ST" value="" formatted=" " uom="0" /> </node>

No they aren't compatible. The way a Pico fits into the bracket won't work with the RemoteLinc2. I've tried as I have both. If trying to hack something the piece of plastic or cut down plate to go over the gang box is the best route.

I agree with @Bumbershootusing curl or if your script is python using python request is the easiest to push a variable to ISY. PyISY is very complete and full featured but may be overkill for a simple single variable. Also there's a couple (including my own) Ambient Weather nodeservers available that provide barometric pressure information from your own local sensors.

If it were thick enough plastic to not flex when pushed against then you're creating a flat/hard surface for the mount to rest against just like a wall. So it would work but it's a lot of work to compensate for a bad mount design from SmartHome I wonder... do they make dimensional gang box covers/fillers that would cover the box and not protrude past the drywall? I've used the blank plate covers before but that adds thickness and is unappealing having the switch mount attached to that and it's then not easy to put a decorative face plate on top of that. Hmm...

The mount bracket has not "back" to it and only holds the remote in by two touch points (top/bottom) and it uses the "wall" as the backing surface for pressure when pressing the switch. Without the wall behind the "mount" when you push the remote it wiggles about is horrible and if pressed too hard will pop through the mount into the gang box....

This is a complaint I have with the bracket. I wish SmartHome or someone would 3d print a nice electrical box mount for the RemoteLinc2. that would be great! This is something I really love about the Lutron Pico's and their mounting options.

That is true. Which is one reason why I asked about the load. If it was for a light or something else (like a switched outlet). I have a switched outlet that this won't work for so I went a different route on that one pending a re-wire when my daughter changes rooms.

It won't auto update Beta releases. So I don't know what's going on with your system. I updated my Dev box with no issues at all. I'm planning my PROD box tonight.

Is it controlling a light or something else? There is the Insteon Dimmer that does NOT require a neutral wire. I have one in use as I didn't feel the need to pull wire for that single light. I would suggest you may want to pull some other switches just to take a look and see if this is a wide spread problem in your home or just that room/area/switch.

You will have to remove the device from the scene and then re-add it back as a responder.

I don't know about the SmartHome charger/adapter but I use a normal mini USB cable with a right angle or adapter and use whatever USB wall adapter I have. I've never used any "special" USB wall adapter for the MS II and my powered one's have been running without issue.

To my knowledge there is no NodeServer currently supporting "Globe Wifi Bulbs". I looked at their website and they have no mention of any API information nor developer integration. Suspicion is they are probably a Tuya backed device. There currently is not a Tuya NodeServer either. If you want to expand your home automation I would suggest Philips Hue or LiFX bulbs as they are already well supported. Wifi devices in general are NOT automation friendly beyond the common Google/Amazon integrations that everyone supports. There are some Wifi exceptions of course but if your plan is to integrate with the ISY I suggest you check device compatibility before purchase.

They once were called "Smart Groups" now they are just groups. Here's the help doc https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201749250 The basics are to create a group aka Room and add the echo to that room you want to be the controller. Then any devices you add to that group will be controlled by the simple phrases. Such as "turn on the lights". This will turn on EVERY device you add to this group.

Welcome. Sorry I couldn't get it resolved though. I'm not seeing updates on my polisy to get to your version. I'll check again after I reboot and see if I get anything. If I do I'll update and try the Tesla nodeserver again... wish I had a Tesla...I LIKE the new truck they released it's sweet!