IndyMike

@SimonK, thanks for taking the time to post back the results of your ticket with UD. It sounds like this problem may have been frustrating users for some time. Curious whether it applies to the Polisy and possibly the ISY994. In the meantime, celebrate by spinning up some Queen "another bug bites the dust"

@Guy Lavoie, thanks for the clarification. Looks like I added 2 + 2 and came up with 22. One question regarding your eisy/Zstick configuration - does it support S2 security? The link that I referenced above (@lilyoyo1) indicated that S2 security was only supported for the Zmatter board. Wasn't sure if that had changed.

Ouch! When did UD UNSUPPORT the Zooz 700 stick? That's a rather major new item and a big departure from previous statements. Did I mis-understand? https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/34826-zwave-700-series-tips-and-tricks/

@ELA, Nice Photo. That's a failure that I have yet to encounter. I am worried that you may have voided your warranty 😉. Like you, I am on the fixed income plan. When Smartlabs closed their doors I began playing with Z-Wave devices. When Insteon restarted. it was their prices that kept me away. For future planning, you may want to visit the Zooz site (Zen51 Dry contact). They have a number of innovative products that make some financial sense. Unfortunately, if you are still using a ISY994, you will need to upgrade to take advantage of the 700/800 series Zwave features. Zooz plusses: Inexpensive relays, dimmers, and embedded (typically 50% less) Select relay and dimmer devices can be used in N-way configurations with standard mechanical switches (additional cost savings). EX - I had a 5 way insteon setup (4 insteon switches) that I replaced with 1 Zen77 and 3 mechanical switches. Very nice rocker feel. As good or better than Insteon. Smooth dimming performance. I replaced some 2477D's I had controlling 2 chandeliers. The 2477D's produced "herky jerky" dimming with the 45W candelabra LED bulbs. The Zen77's were very smooth even with a slow ramp rate. Responsive customer support - reported an issue with what I termed "excessive communication" using a power monitoring plug-in. Customer service responded, we conversed, and 3 months later they informed me of a firmware update that they had developed to address the issue. OTA firmware updates of devices. No issues with all-on (Insteon issue that still plagues some devices). Full disclosure - I really like these guys. I want to make sure they stay afloat.

I'm thinking that the IF clause is re-evaluating to false after you have run the "Then section" of the program. Your 20 second waits will allow the program to exit. Try separating into two programs (1 program for IF and 1 for Then).

@larryllix, I was unaware (or forgot) about the psudodevice using the Alexa interface. It appears that similar triggers can be accomplished by publishing variables through the portal. Not my cup of tea. I understand that this is my issue. I started with the ISY26 in the way back because it was a local solution to home automation. I've managed to stick with that for most of my ISY994 and Home assistant implementation. Not willing to go to the Dark Side (pun intended) of internet automation. As stated earlier, I have a very different view of scene status. I wan to know if ANY device in a scene (bsmt, 1st floor, 2nd floor, outside) is on so I can display it on a keypad and turn All Scene Members off. My thing - but that's what home automation is, right?

This is precisely the thinking that led to where we are now. We could never agree on what constituted the status of a scene. In trying to please everyone, UD did nothing - and pleased no one. If they had tried something, it would have been a starting point that could have been built upon... I am quite pleased by the scene status that HA currently gives me. If I upgrade my ISY994, I will try the Virtual plugin. I'm quite sure I could find applications for it.

@Guy Lavoie, nice find and good job realizing the possible applications. This is what happens when a new set of eyes looks at an old problem. Rather than enumerating all the ways the problem can't be solved, the new eyes provide a solution. If I could figure out a way of running this on my ISY994, I'd be all over it. I guess it's one more vote for upgrading to the Eisy...

The links for 33.D7.B7 are showing a mismatch, but they are probably OK. The LSb is being set to 1 for some reason, but probably won't cause any harm. A restore will correct this, but it's likely to return. Device 34.E7.8B is a controller for group 00. It's very likely your PLM. The links for 33.10.4F look valid. Your deck lights are listed as a responder to the 33.10.4F switch. There should be in a scene on the admin console showing 33.10.4F as a controller and your 34.09.80 as a responder.

It's listed as a "beacon test" in the full device manual (not the quick start guide). Not all that easy to find these days. Here's one for a 2477D - https://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2477D-en.pdf If you perform this on your PLM, it will signal all the devices in your home that are within range. Devices will flash: Green - opposite phase Red - same phase Nothing - out of range or doesn't support function

@Techman, very interesting. Wasn't aware the ISY994 supported Zwave 700 series dongle's. Which manufacturers are compatible?

That sounds like a definitive result. Built in microwave replacement definitely NOT recommended. I'm looking for a "what changed" item. Unlikely that your microwave suddenly started absorbing more signal. You mentioned constriction and power outages. Is it possible that one or more of your phase coupling devices got damaged/upset? You may want to try the 4-tap phase test on your PLM to see if things are still coupled. Easier than installing an XPF filter.

@SHM, I'm a little surprised that your microwave is causing a problem when it is off. Is this a built-in model or countertop? I ask because a countertop model would be on a GFCI and could be shared with other outlets while a built in would not. If your lamplincs were on the same circuit, I could absolutely believe that the microwave would absorb the insteon signal and prevent them from communicating. If your devices are on a different circuit from the microwave, I would suggest that you saw a "false positive" in your testing. It's unlikely that the microwave could absorb signals on a different circuit. Try unplugging the microwave to see I the devices still communicate. If the microwave is indeed causing interference on a different circuit when it's off, it may be time for a new microwave.

Thank you Paul. I am familiar with the switch monitoring technique. I've been using it since my first ISY26 back in 2007. It most certainly does work. The technique allows me to monitor each floor of my house (1st, 2nd, basement) and display the status on keypads so I can turn monitor/turn off sections of the house as I am leaving or going to bed. It is also, unfortunately, very easy to break. Devices moving in/out of scenes, devices being replaced by dissimilar devices, naming issues all contribute to broken status programs over the years. With IF statements of 25 to 75 devices, it's easy to miss things. This maintenance issue could be avoided if we had access to the scene state (on/off). Somehow the ISY is communicating this information to Home Assistant (very nicely). As @Guy Lavoie stated, this is a feature request - not a problem to be solved through a work around.

This discussion has been going on since scenes were implemented by Smartlabs. The bottom line is Insteon does not support either Scene "Status" or "control states" and creating an architecture for this has been LOW PRIORITY for UDI. One workaround that I have found is to use the Home Assistant integration for the ISY. Home Assistant treats scenes as "switches" or "relay devices". They are either ON or OFF. Curiously, I noted that Home Assistant shows scenes as active (ON) if ANY scene member has a Level > Off. Conversely, all scene members must be Off for a scene to be shown as Off. I use this functionality for triggering programs on Home Assistant. I seriously doubt that Home Assistant is divining the scene status on it's own. Unfortunately, we don't have access to the information on the ISY platform. Seems a little ridiculous, but there are far worse things in life.

That's it. The top "On" button and bottom "Off" button on the 5 button KPL are essentially Non-toggle buttons. The ON can only send On commands (or bright) and the Off can only send Off commands (or dim). As we discussed above for the Motion sensor, multiple consecutive ON commands will NOT show up in the Log (same for multiple Off). The device communicates and will show up in the event viewer (and trigger programs), but repeated commands will not be reflected in the logfile. I have never used the "buttons grouping" feature. As recommended by UDI, I use scenes to accomplish similar things. Look for programs that may be triggered by the devices turning ON. You may want to disconnect the loads to see if this eliminates the issue. Good answer. I've used the vacation mode feature on a few controllers. Being from the "dogpatch" section of the country, I don't have a real application for the feature. I can understand it's value for others. Not sure how repeatable this problem is... If you manually run your program can you force the problem to occur? If so, you can copy the program and try removing devices to see if the problem goes away. I think there is a way to accomplish what you want. It involves switching the KPL to 8-button mode and then joining the A+B and G+H buttons in a scene. From the outside the KPL looks like your 5-button. A+B buttons are Non-toggle ON (as they are on a normal 5 button) and the G+H buttons are Non-toggle Off. It allows you to control the lighting on all of the buttons - when all buttons are off, the KPL can be completely dark. If you're interested, we could start another thread on the configuration (may already be something on the forum). Probably better to figure out your current issues 1st.

Hey @CoolToys, sorry to hear that problems are rearing their heads again. I looked over your logs. There's a couple of things that I see, and some that I don't: I do not see a trigger for your program. Neither your "MB Window Keypad.ON" nor your "MB Door Keypad 70 9B C0All On" show as having been switched on. It's possible that you have these set as Non-Toggle On. In this case the Log would only show the 1st on event. Please confirm. Your HallwayOutletCurio is showing a "ON" status and is immediately followed by an "ON". This can sometimes happen when a device like a lamplinc is connected to a non-resistive load. The load can provide and electrical kick-back and fool the lamplinc into thinking it has turned back on. Please confirm the device type and model. Turn off the local load sensing if equipped. You have many devices and scenes in your program. 11 devices and being addressed individually and you are using 17 additional scenes. Why not put all of them in a single "bedtime" scene and issue a single "fast off" command? This would eliminate a ton of communication and program waits. Are you experiencing issues communicating to some of the devices? Beyond the above, I would guess that you have another program that is being activated and turning (some) things back on. Look at the program summary tab for programs that have run in the same timeframe. You can sort by "Last run time".

If you were using 500 Series Z-wave devices I am not surprised that you were displeased. Like you, I was looking hard as Smartlabs began it's freefall. I wound up using Zooz 700 series Z-wave switches. Much improved. They are now my go to for switches/dimmers. One of the huge plusses is that you can mix a single switch/dimmer in a N-way installation with MANUAL switches. Huge $ savings. As far as the EISY supporting the Zigbee Presence Sensor - really don't know. I do not have the EISY to test and I would think that UDI would being by supporting the more mainstream devices first. I decided to test drive these because they were battery powered (most are USB). They work well enough, but generate a lot of traffic. Haven't had them long enough to assess battery life. Battery life is normally the strong suit of Zigbee devices. I've had some temperature sensors operating outdoors (wide temperature swings) and in my freezers (-15F) for over a year.

@Hoosier Daddy, I should clarify that I am using the ZWave and Zigbee sensors on Home Assistant. I am still running the ISY994 for Insteon. The Human Presence Sensor is from AliExpress - Tuya ZG-204ZM. I purchased 2 of them. They added to HA easily and have a number of controls for "Tuning" the motion and mmWave sensor. I have one in my office which works very well. The second sensor is in our Family Room (16 x 18). I am still tuning this one. The room presents a number of challenges with large windows, TV, Sound system, and obstacles. The challenge is to be able to detect my wife sleeping on the couch (under a cover) and not falsely detect the TV/Sound system when we're out of the room. It's close, but not quite there yet. My only real complaint is that these devices are "chatty" (as are most things Tuya). When there is motion, the sensors let you know CONSTANTLY. It would be easy to overload a Zigbee router if you had a number of these. I probably wouldn't purchase more for that reason. Here's a review from the SmartHomeScene: https://smarthomescene.com/reviews/zigbee-battery-powered-presence-sensor-zg-204zm-review/ I will say that my sensor has a couple more "tuning" controls than shown in the review.

Answers to your questions above. Use the scene in your programs and from the Admin console.

@twired, I find it extremely interesting that your program is ONLY executing the Else section. If the IOLinc status NEVER becomes true, I'm not sure how you could be activating the Else multiple times (there is no state change). Are you basing your statement that the IF section didn't run on the Lack of and Email? I'm asking because this might be interrupted by a quick change in the IOLinc status. A quick Off - On - Off might exit the If section and run the Else. Do you have another program that calls the Else section of the alarm program? Are you running a periodic query program on the IOLinc? Please do perform the changes as suggested by @paulbates and @Techman. If things still aren't happy, we can take a look further.

@Blackbird, I'm thinking this is coincidence. Home Assistant shouldn't do anything to prevent an ISY scene from activating. If you have Automations (programs) set up on Home Assistant, It could turn off devices using the ISY. The ISY should have knowledge of this - it will show up in your event viewer and Logfile. Please check - Run a device link table compare on your KPL. If there are corrupted/missing links, do a restore. Manually activate the scene from the ISY console. Chances are you are having communication problems and not talking to the KPL If the scene doesn't work, try device direct communication from the Admin console (turn the KPL itself on, not the scene). Let us know how things go. If you absolutely can't talk to the KPL, we'll need to get a bit more invasive. Edit: Are you running Home Assistant on the EISY or another device?

Could you post the program that is running the Else clause (IOLinc activated)?

Sorry - looks like I was the one that was confused. Back to your normally scheduled broadcast...

As @oberkc indicated, the ISY log should show X10 activity received by the PLM. In the view below, activity on house code F is valid. Activity on House Code P is not. Unfortunately, X10 signals are likely very low level. If you don't have X10 repeaters in your system, it's unlikely the PLM will receive ALL the X10. Time to pull out the age old X10 troubleshooting tools: Look for battery devices that may be failing (motions, etc). These can spontaneously change house/unit code as the battery drains. Trace circuits (flip breakers, unplug devices)- if the problem is isolated to a circuit or phase try filtering or improving signal levels. As @paulbates indicated, try changing house codes. Certain house codes are more prone to noise issues. J is one of them because of the bit coding. I have always gotten spurious signals on P. House code A is typically where battery devices communicate when they start failing. It is possible that an Insteon device has a X10 house code programmed. The only way to eliminate the House code is to factory reset/ restore the device. You may need to head over to the old X10 forum for additional tools.