Teken

Michel, Tonight I observed a serious issue upon sending a *ALL OFF* command via the ISY Admin Center. When I pressed the *All Off* command the garage door opened up! I can't begin to tell you, when the central alarm system went off showing a breach in the perimeter of my home, I almost jumped out of my skin! Please let me know why this happened and how to resolve this issue . . . Regards Teken . . .

This is indeed what I have observed this evening . . . Teken . . .

LeeG, Thanks for the clarification . . . I will perform some more tests and reply in kind if there are more questions as they pertain to the half links. Teken . . .

I am trying to understand if there is a part failure. Or that there is more things happening that may be affecting my install site. Taking a existing switch which was enrolled via the ISY, and selecting *delete all existing links* appears to enrolled the switch fine. Upon using the HL2 to look at this device it shows *half links* which I question . . . Basically, I am trying to affirm that if I do the following that the device will be in fact empty and blank as if it came out of the box. Having said all of this: Doing a factory reset I believe would accomplish this first ask. Using the ISY and simply *deleting* the same device from the ISY system should also accomplish this same task. While using *add new device* and selecting *delete all links* seems to leave links which another application (HL2) being able to trace and find said links. I am trying to fully understand what half links are, and how they impact the system. While doing a lot of reading on the forum there has not been a definite answer in this Q. Teken . . .

Are you sure?

If a person uses the default setting of adding in a new Insteon device via the ISY. Will adding a new device and selecting *delete all existing links* is this process 100% in removing all pre-existing links?? Teken . . .

I currently use all three software solutions: 1. ISY as the primary interface for myself. 2. HL2 for added diagnostics and trouble shooting. 3. SmartLinc for a simple interface for the family. I would like to add that using the SmartLinc interface is the perfect balance of access and control for 99% of the time for the general populace. Allowing the family (read small kids) access the ISY Admin Counsel would be disaster waiting to happen! Also, in my case having the SmartLinc it provided me a extra level of redundancy for the family and I. While I marched on in various upgrades (ISY) and platform adjustments while still allowing control and access with the alternate SmartLinc solution for the rest of the family. Teken . . .

I believe what he may be referring to is hearing the buzzing from the immediate area of the ISY, but in fact the buzzing is coming from the PLM. I have experienced this exact same thing when the device was in some frantic state and the PLM was mimicking this distress. Teken . . .

There are several things I would like to bring to light. As your experience mirrors my own only a few weeks back. Upon installing a *Dimmer Style KPL* and turning on the load switch there was a horrendous buzzing coming from the KPL. I found out that the default ramp rate was set for 0.5 seconds. This caused the (not dimmable) CFL to buzz and pulse! Please check via the ISY that the ramp rate is NOT in fact set to 0.5 seconds, and if so change it to instant on. The delay may be enough to throw the whole garage I/O set up out of sync. Also, I noted that I had troubles using the actual load (Main on/off) button to control the garage I/O set up from another KPL used solely for control & indicator until I moved the function to another button. This may be a instance of a firmware level that may be causing this odd behavior which many people may not be aware of. I hope this brings some insight and solutions to you. Regards Teken . . .

You must do this change locally at the outlet. Teken . . .

7-9 feet is the optimum height for most PIR sensors. Keep in mind, you can very well increase the sensitivity on the device to ensure the most coverage is detected. One thing to keep in mind is that you do NOT want to install the motion sensor too close, or in direct ambient light. This will disrupt the sensors ability in detecting moving heat signature of your Mother. In the interim, just use some double sided tape to affix the sensor so you're able to move the motion sensor around with out all the ugly holes left behind. Teken . . .

Would you mind explaining how your closed program works along with a sample. As I have struggled with making one where I am confident with the end results. Teken . . .

Please ensure you confirm and validate that all GDO safety's operate as intended. Please check to see that the safety beam sensor does in fact operate and retract the door once the beam has been breached. Some users have experienced this odd behavior. Also note, you should confirm that all hand held remotes and hard wire switches do in fact operate independently of the Insteon / ISY set up. If all of the above operate than the next step is to sit there and watch the KPL LED. Validate that this KPL LED does in fact reflect the open / close state regardless of the method of opening / closing of the GDO. This is the largest door in your home, it is also the most important area that needs 100% security and confirmation that it is indeed wired and programmed correctly. The last step is to ensure you unplug the PLM, or ISY in what ever order and power up the device(s) in random stages. You will do this with the door open, and also in the closed state. This will confirm and validate a power line loss, or break in ISY communication or check to see if any programs may conflict with any portion of the operation of the garage door. I performed this same step over 46 times to ensure a high level of safety, and confidence in the final install. Please do so on your end, and then enjoy the true meaning of control! Teken . . .

No the "relay follows sensor" is not checked. Only "LED on Tx" is checked with Momentary "c" The story is more complicated because it seems that the scene will not control the IOLinc either from the ISY web app or from the mobilinc. Both show what the staus should be based on the command either on or off but nothing happens. I think that this is this a problem with the IOLinc. Other scenes that I have work just fine. I've spent as much time on this as I spent intalling Switches for half of my house. Very frustrating! Hello Watchdog507, Please confirm visually the following items for me. 1. The red & black wires from the sensor are wired to the I/O Linc. The black wire is placed on the GROUND, while the Red wire is placed on the SENSE. 2. You have connected the other two leads directly to the GDO. Connecting one wire to the N/O (Normally Open) while the other wire is inserted into the COM (Common). 3. Set the I/O Linc to Momentary C mode via the ISY. If in doubt at this point I would urge you to do a factory reset of the I/O Linc. It already doesn't operate as you wish so no loss here. 4. Once the I/O Linc has been factory reset. Please use the ISY to change the relay to Momentary C mode. 5. Press the I/O Lincs Set button. The door should raise and lower as though you're using the remote control, or hard wired switch for the GDO. If it does not stop . . . If it does, and the LED on the I/O Linc displays a green LED upon open & off when closed please continue. 6. Create 2 scenes in the ISY: Name of Scene: Garage Door Relay Status Make this a Responder: I/O Linc Garage Door - Relay Make this a controller: KPL what ever button Name of Scene: Garage Door Sensor Status Make this a Controller: I/O Linc Garage Door - Sensor Make this a Responder: KPL what ever button 7. This portion is the most important part . . . Please ensure the door is OPEN. The I/O Linc's LED should reflect the open status. If not stop, until it does! DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR VIA THE I/O LINK SET BUTTON!!! Open the door via the GDO . . . Once this step is done, and you have followed the drag and drop of those two scenes I have indicated the door should open and close with pushing only 1 button. Which will reflect the open / close state via the KPL LEDS . . . Ensure that the KPL button is left in *Toggle* On/Off I have installed this device several times and this has been the most solid method I have been able to control the door, all the while having only one KPL button do all the work. It never falters and is 100% accurate. The biggest problem I encountered was using the I/O Lincs Set button to do the initial programming and also opening the door! You only do this part in the very first step to confirm that the door can in fact be controlled and open / closed via the set button. Pressing the idiot button at any other time will make you scream and pull every strand of hair out of your head! Don't ask me how I know . . . Teken . . .

I would offer to you, for a truly reliable solution would be to use a pressure sensitive media which is placed on the floor. You can Google for them, but note their intended purpose is for hard wired solutions. Teken . . .

Most recently I installed a fresh copy of the HL2 software to an existing server terminal. Prior to wiping out the previous install the HL2 software showed a percentage of charge for the existing battery. It was something in the order of 45%. Now, after removing the 9 volt batteries out of two 2420 motion sensors. The first battery measures in at 7.11 VDC, while the other one measures 6.83 VDC. Now, here is what I have observed which I hope brings to light some insight, as well as some discussion. Upon installing a brand new 9 volt battery to the 2420, and then enrolling it to the HL2 software the new battery status displayed a 100% rate of charge. Enrolling the second 2420 motion sensor with the existing *OLD* battery displayed the 45% state of charge. Upon changing out the old battery and replacing it with a new battery. The HL2 continues to show a state of charge of 45%?? I have waited over 24 hours since installing this new battery and have login to the HL2 several times to see what it reports back. And at each point it continues to state it is still at a 45% state of charge?? I know there is another very long thread about the battery low status just below my new thread. But, I didn't want to muddy up that one with a random Q which may not be related in kind. So, I have several Q's for the members: When will the HL2 ever display the new battery level status? Will I have to remove the 2420 from the HL2, then replace the unit with a new battery, then re-enroll the device just so it will display and track the correct state of charge?? You can see this may pose a serious problem with respect to when the device, or software, ISY may interpret when to flag a low battery condition. Is the battery condition state of charge in the HL2 accurate to start with?? Insight Teken . . .

How does one test and verify the new SwitchLinc Timer functions? Is this regarding that switch *bit* discussed in another thread? Teken . . .

I don't know what has happened but my ISY has seriously just locked up and melted down. It will not let me restore from a back up. And pops up these Java error messages along with this one message I have never seen before. I do not have the ELK module or system. I do not have the MorningLinc etc. Teken . . . UPDATE: Well, it looks like something has given up the ghost. The ISY now says my login credentials are not authorized. I can not connect to the box what so ever . . . Right now its unplugged, along with the dual band PLM. Maybe it needs a good rest and a nap? Teken . . .

For everyone's future reference the 2443 AP's are v2.0 with a production date of 0933. The other set of 2443 AP's are v2.0 with a production date of 0945. I have a spare 2487S hopefully arriving next week. So, I will perform some open air tests and some simulated J box installs on the work bench to see what happens. What I am trying to gauge is how much of the RF output is being dispersed and also being smothered in the J Box. ELA, it would be greatly appreciated if you could perform some RF tests with the ELAM so we could have some sort of base line. I just want something to compare to for future reference. Teken . . .

Some have with no ill affects. While I am of the opinion you should adhere to the vendors stated caution against doing so. If you touch the PLM you will note the relative amount of heat given off by this device. This, besides the ISY is the heart of the system. Teken . . .

Everything you have indicated above is correct. What I don't understand is how can the right hand side dual band 2457D2 unit I have show a same phase / leg. When the same test is performed using the 2487S? Yet, when you perform the exact same test in the reverse the bridging test shows a opposite leg, with incorrect bridging??

ELA, I will even do you one better. I have one 2487S installed, to the right of this switch is a dual band 2457D2 this module is seven feet away. Exactly another seven feet to the left is a 2443 Access Point. When I perform a 4 tap bridge test from the 2457D2 its LED is green, and the 2487S will flash the four center keys. In my mind this indicates that the two are bridged and on opposite phases. While these two modules are blinking away to the left of them is the 2443 AP module which also shows its green and blinking. Again, in my mind the expectation is that they (all 3 modules) are bridged and on opposite legs of the electrical system. Here is the problem: I have another 2457D2 in the kitchen. This module is literally 17 feet from all three modules. When I perform the exact same phase bridge test this device shows it too is communicating, and also on the opposite leg of the electrical system. Now here is where this whole dual band thing makes me wonder: IF, I attempt to perform the exact same bridge phase test from only the 2487S switch. Guess what happens? The 2457D2 on the right will blink RED?? WTF with that?? All the while the 2443 AP on the left shows its green, and bridged?? Walking into the kitchen, I observe that the other 2457D2 is doing absolutely nothing! So, I am at this time extremely confused and ask the general UDI collective for their thoughts. Because there are some things that simply do not track and make sense to me. EDIT: I also observe the same problem of standing in the path of the 2457D2, and this device will show flashing green (Kitchen unit) to red. It clearly shows me that my body is deflecting the RF signal. So, this is the part I am trying to grasp here: Is the coupling for these dual band devices RF only?? Because it appears this way to me, and *IF* it is, then why does the insertion of the mp3 charger, and other related transformer interfere with the RF aspect?? Teken . . .

LeeG, Thanks for confirming. Teken . . .

Is this word DON correct ?? Teken . . .

Does this release correct the misworded phrase of *DON* back to *ON*? I ask, because I noted this during a test I performed last night while enrolling a new KPL dimmer. I was under the impression that 3.1.14 had corrected this typo? I will install 3.1.15 and report back if I see this word again during the enrolling process. Teken . . .