Teken

Michel, When you receive the new unit could you please include the firmware, production date, along with the ISY version number. If you're able to get that portion working it would be most excellent! As always, I thank you and the UDI team . . . Teken . . .

I will confirm this behavior, once I am off work. Teken . . .

As far as I am aware what you're describing is the expected behavior. *IF* you turn the TimerLinc on locally, you will see that the 15 minute, 1-2-3 etc timers do operate. *IF* you turn on the TimerLinc from another switch / ISY. That TimerLinc will only function as a SwitchLinc Relay. Now, If you link the TimerLinc to another Insteon device which acts as a responder in part of another scene. My expectation is that all those devices would indeed turn on / off with the local timer settings, *IF* you turn it on locally. Others may clarify or expand my explanation so it is 100% accurate. Teken . . .

Chris, I don't want to sound like a broken record. But, I would ask you to kindly confirm there is absolutely nothing plugged in that could cause any sort of comm issues. It will take less time to unplug all the devices in that area, or even better to simply kill the breakers to determine if there are other factors at play here. Even if you get the KPL enrolled, if there are noise / signal suckers in the environment you will not have a 100% reliable network. Please double check the home for anything new, or old items that may be affecting your network. Worse case, you find nothing, and simply enroll the KPL via the temp cord. If it enrolls fine, and then when you install it in its final resting place and there are still comm issues. Then, you know there are gremlins still abound that require your attention . . . BTW: If you haven't rebooted and updated the firmware lately that would be a good start too!

Chris, As painful as this may sound. If you have ensured proper bridging of both legs of the single phase of your electrical system. Also, if you have removed, filtered, or identified all noise and signal suckers with in the building. The most direct approach is to take that switch and wire it in to a spare cord / romex what ever. Then, link it, reinstall the device, then you should be good to go. I had three installs where there was absolutely no interference, no problems with correct bridging of the both legs, or otherwise. Came down to, too much wire from one end of the home for the signal to arrive, and then ack the ISY commands. After wiring the KPL's, switches, outlets, to a temp cord and enrolling the device it was all green and good to go. Teken . . .

What is the cost for the X10 motion sensors?

Yes, your not kidding! Trying to maneuver all those #12 in a tiny shallow J box was incredibly time consuming and finger breaking! But, alas it was done even if it took 45 minutes . . . On a related note I placed one of those foam weather coverings on top of the decora cover. It seems to have dampened the noise quite a bit. You can still hear the *hiss* if you put your ear to it, but it is less noticeable now. The only reason I mention this noise in the first place is that it literally sounds like something is about to catch fire! Teken . . .

Hello IndyMike, The noise is apparent in both on / off modes. I was aware that the device was deeper but didn't think it would be so difficult to install! It literally took me 45 minutes just to get the single gang wiring bundle in the proper place just to get the switch in place! The on / off is the loudest I have ever heard from any Insteon device I have on site. On a related note I would appreciate it if you could do a few tests and relay your personal experience with respect to the LED output doing it manually, and via the ISY. Here is the thread discussing the findings: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7561 Teken . . .

After listening to it on and off for about an hour. The actual sound appears to be a hissing noise?? It doesn't appear to be affecting anything right now that I can tell. All of the portable phones, and wireless Internet all seem to be fine. I am going to do some RF tests and see what comes from this unit. Teken . . .

So this week I received my 2487S dual band KPL relay. To my surprise this device has a very noticeable buzzing coming from within the unit?? So to confirm if any of the others KPL's buzz I went around the house and removed the decora style covers and couldn't hear a thing. I went back to the new KPL, factory reset it, and even tried to switch the line to neutral to see if it made any difference, nope. From there I used a test cord and wired in the KPL and sure enough the incessant buzzing continues! Has anyone experienced such a thing with any of their Insteon products?? Teken . . .

Michel, As always, I thank you for your insight and guidance. Teken . . .

I received my first batch of new toys during the 20% discount offered by SH last night. Upon linking the TriggerLinc using the auto option it failed. I have read many threads indicating that the user must use the drop down menu and select the correct device from the list. This does indeed allow the linking to complete. This also displays the ISY v0.0 which really bothers me. 1. What is the reason that the TriggerLinc can not be found using the auto discovery? 2. Please confirm that there is no loss in functionality of having to enroll said device using the manual drop down list. 3. Will this ever be corrected? As when I see devices with a v0.0 I always have that feeling that something isn't quite right. BTW: These units all have a Rev 1.3, production date of 3211 Teken . . .

ELA, As always, I thank you for your contributions and insight. This truly saddens me . . . Teken . . .

Hello LeeG, I created a thread about the chime / beep feature on the new dual band KPL. Would you consider perhaps this new KPL would utilize this unused feature?? Once I receive the new unit I will surely test it to confirm my thoughts. Teken . . .

Andy, Would you mind sharing your programs with me? I would like to compare how your set up is relative to mine.

You do realize the Energy Display units are battery powered, right? Sorry if I was not clear. I have 6 Insteon thermostats along with the RF adapters. My plan is to use these devices along with a 24 VAC transformer and place them through out the home. This is instead of the Energy Monitor.

All of this will be done one at a time and slowly integrated into the primary system once it has been validated as 100%. So, nothing wrong starting from humble beginnings! My first objective is to purchase several 24 VAC transformers and link them to the system and test whether or not these TSTATS will operate as I hope for. If they do produce the desired results I will roll them out in full deployment within the primary Insteon network. One of the things I will have to decide upon is where these box's will reside? I am not sure the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) will be there with respect to hanging up 6 white box's all over the house . . . This is why I considered the Energy Display instead as they simply look like a small white clock. Another problem going this route is that I will need to place each device with in a 120 AC outlet which will reduce my options for placement along with hiding the ugly wire coming down the wall . . . I dunno . . . Will have to sleep on this and consider my options. Teken . . .

Hello Andyf0, My intent and use for the remote sensors may be a lot different than yours. My primary goal is to have six of these Venstar RF enabled devices in place. They will be placed in key areas of the home to determine the local temperature / humidity. Once the remote thermostat detects a defined temperature / humidity. What ever linked Insteon device I have programmed will turn on to accomplish their stated goal. Whether it be to move air flow from one zone to another either with fans, or ceiling fans, exhaust the immediate air through the over head range, vent the entire home using the central exhaust, or lastly to turn on the central AC in the home to meet the stated temperature / humidity. All of this will be linked to the window shades to produce the desired temperatures. I already have six of these thermostats along with the RF adapter so the only thing I need to purchase is the 24 VAC transformer. Ideally, I would have preferred using the Energy Display but that would have been at a added costs. These six TSTATS along with the RF adapters were pretty much free so I don't have a lot invested so far in this test. Insight Teken . . .

Can multiple T1800 with the Insteon RF adapter be deployed as remote sensors in a ISY set up? If so what are some of the basics that need to be followed to make these devices work in a stand alone mode? I would think simply wiring in a 24 VAC transformer to power the T1800, along with enrolling the Insteon RF adapter into the ISY-99 would be all that is required? Any feed back and insight with respect to this task is greatly appreciated! Teken . . .

I have five T1800, along with the Insteon RF adapters. If, this is the case please do let me know and I shall set them up and test this method. The only out of pocket costs would be for the 24 VAC transformers. Teken . . .

What I'd really like to see is energy (pardon the pun) spent on support for a (wired) one-wire temperature and humidity sensor solution. I think temp/hum (and thermostats, actually) should be kept off the insteon network, especially if each has to be polled every minute, times # of sensors (& stats). Teken, I currently use a HomeSeer and one-wire based sol'n (that I would like to move to ISY but can't right now) for what you'd like to do. I routinely turn on house ventilation to balance out the temperature in the house. However, unless one lives in a particularly dry region, the biggest bang for the buck IMO is with respect to managing humidity in the house. I'm able to turn on the bathroom fans when the humidity hits ~12% higher in one compared with the humidity on the main floor (far from bathrooms, kitchen, laundry room) then off again when it comes back down. In winter I turn on/off the furnace humidifier and HRV based on indoor humidity levels and the outside temperature. In summer I also control the HRV around temp and humidity outside, turn on/off a dehumidifier, and lower the AC setpoint when the humidity in the house is high but the temp is not quite high enough to otherwise trigger the AC. I have to say the automagic bathroom fans have been the most visible automation tricks in my bag next to motion/scene lighting. While people don't see much of the stuff going on, I consider humidity control in general to have provided the highest ROI since, unlike much of the other automation stuff (that I like too), it contributes directly to the house's and my family's health. I 100% agree with all that is stated. It is the elusive (remote) temperature / humidity which I am trying to master and have the ability to monitor and control that eludes me. Any insight as to the probe you're using would be greatly appreciated there Sir! Teken . . .

If adding the temperature reading will achieve the above goal for sure! So if I could ask you to clarify one portion for me please. Can I only have a Energy Display on hand and have it work with my ISY system? Or will I have to purchase a iMeter, along with a Energy Display? As always your continued support, and guidance is greatly appreciated Sir! Teken . . .

You're right the standard gas generator does not produce a pure sine wave. As you clearly noted the power was rather dirty and can not be relied upon to power up delicate electronics. Doing so will damage said electronics. As you also clearly indicated Honda is one of the premier vendors producing pure sine wave generators, at a premium. I have opted to install a 22 kwh whole house NG generator which does produce a pure sine wave to enable me to use all manner of devices with out the fear of potential dirty power damaging my hardware and electronics. Also, back feeding with out the proper use of a transfer switch whether it be a mechanical one at the service entrance is not only dangerous, but illegal in many states. The biggest factor is the potential threat to a lines men on the other end not aware the line he is working on is indeed energized. Teken . . .

I know the UDI team is extremely busy with the on going upgrades you guys have been pursuing. Which by the way is greatly appreciated by me and tens of thousands of loyal customers! If there is ever some sort of down time I would humbly ask that another on line session be given. Or as the OP has asked that a few simple You Tube tutorials be crafted to show new users the basics as to how to use this powerful tool. I would like to vote for Lee G, or any of the power users to make a few videos for future reference materials. I know personally that having such a reference material would have eased the learning curve for me and the others. Just some thoughts . . . Teken . . .

I haven't tried actually as other tasks have taken up my time. I plan on doing this later this week to see how it performs. If this beep feature (chime) is being generated by continuous signal invoked by the HL2, I will not pursue this solution any further. As I do not want to hinder my system with extra traffic for no good reason. Now, if the HL2 does simply invoke a one time command and the KPL does indeed continue to beep for what ever duration I have indicated via the HL2. Then, maybe this might be a solution I am willing to entertain. The only draw back is that I will need to keep the server running which the HL2 is installed on! Which would negate my primary goal of limiting my power consumption foot print . . . I would prefer to see this task performed by the ISY as its power consumption is extremely small. I will see what arrives next week, install it, and then do some basic testing to see what happens and report back. More than likely you and the others are correct that the chime is simply a beep via a software solution from the HL2, which sends continuous signals to the KPL to beep / chime. Lets be positive and hope you all are wrong!