Teken

Would you mind explaining how your closed program works along with a sample. As I have struggled with making one where I am confident with the end results. Teken . . .

Please ensure you confirm and validate that all GDO safety's operate as intended. Please check to see that the safety beam sensor does in fact operate and retract the door once the beam has been breached. Some users have experienced this odd behavior. Also note, you should confirm that all hand held remotes and hard wire switches do in fact operate independently of the Insteon / ISY set up. If all of the above operate than the next step is to sit there and watch the KPL LED. Validate that this KPL LED does in fact reflect the open / close state regardless of the method of opening / closing of the GDO. This is the largest door in your home, it is also the most important area that needs 100% security and confirmation that it is indeed wired and programmed correctly. The last step is to ensure you unplug the PLM, or ISY in what ever order and power up the device(s) in random stages. You will do this with the door open, and also in the closed state. This will confirm and validate a power line loss, or break in ISY communication or check to see if any programs may conflict with any portion of the operation of the garage door. I performed this same step over 46 times to ensure a high level of safety, and confidence in the final install. Please do so on your end, and then enjoy the true meaning of control! Teken . . .

No the "relay follows sensor" is not checked. Only "LED on Tx" is checked with Momentary "c" The story is more complicated because it seems that the scene will not control the IOLinc either from the ISY web app or from the mobilinc. Both show what the staus should be based on the command either on or off but nothing happens. I think that this is this a problem with the IOLinc. Other scenes that I have work just fine. I've spent as much time on this as I spent intalling Switches for half of my house. Very frustrating! Hello Watchdog507, Please confirm visually the following items for me. 1. The red & black wires from the sensor are wired to the I/O Linc. The black wire is placed on the GROUND, while the Red wire is placed on the SENSE. 2. You have connected the other two leads directly to the GDO. Connecting one wire to the N/O (Normally Open) while the other wire is inserted into the COM (Common). 3. Set the I/O Linc to Momentary C mode via the ISY. If in doubt at this point I would urge you to do a factory reset of the I/O Linc. It already doesn't operate as you wish so no loss here. 4. Once the I/O Linc has been factory reset. Please use the ISY to change the relay to Momentary C mode. 5. Press the I/O Lincs Set button. The door should raise and lower as though you're using the remote control, or hard wired switch for the GDO. If it does not stop . . . If it does, and the LED on the I/O Linc displays a green LED upon open & off when closed please continue. 6. Create 2 scenes in the ISY: Name of Scene: Garage Door Relay Status Make this a Responder: I/O Linc Garage Door - Relay Make this a controller: KPL what ever button Name of Scene: Garage Door Sensor Status Make this a Controller: I/O Linc Garage Door - Sensor Make this a Responder: KPL what ever button 7. This portion is the most important part . . . Please ensure the door is OPEN. The I/O Linc's LED should reflect the open status. If not stop, until it does! DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR VIA THE I/O LINK SET BUTTON!!! Open the door via the GDO . . . Once this step is done, and you have followed the drag and drop of those two scenes I have indicated the door should open and close with pushing only 1 button. Which will reflect the open / close state via the KPL LEDS . . . Ensure that the KPL button is left in *Toggle* On/Off I have installed this device several times and this has been the most solid method I have been able to control the door, all the while having only one KPL button do all the work. It never falters and is 100% accurate. The biggest problem I encountered was using the I/O Lincs Set button to do the initial programming and also opening the door! You only do this part in the very first step to confirm that the door can in fact be controlled and open / closed via the set button. Pressing the idiot button at any other time will make you scream and pull every strand of hair out of your head! Don't ask me how I know . . . Teken . . .

I would offer to you, for a truly reliable solution would be to use a pressure sensitive media which is placed on the floor. You can Google for them, but note their intended purpose is for hard wired solutions. Teken . . .

Most recently I installed a fresh copy of the HL2 software to an existing server terminal. Prior to wiping out the previous install the HL2 software showed a percentage of charge for the existing battery. It was something in the order of 45%. Now, after removing the 9 volt batteries out of two 2420 motion sensors. The first battery measures in at 7.11 VDC, while the other one measures 6.83 VDC. Now, here is what I have observed which I hope brings to light some insight, as well as some discussion. Upon installing a brand new 9 volt battery to the 2420, and then enrolling it to the HL2 software the new battery status displayed a 100% rate of charge. Enrolling the second 2420 motion sensor with the existing *OLD* battery displayed the 45% state of charge. Upon changing out the old battery and replacing it with a new battery. The HL2 continues to show a state of charge of 45%?? I have waited over 24 hours since installing this new battery and have login to the HL2 several times to see what it reports back. And at each point it continues to state it is still at a 45% state of charge?? I know there is another very long thread about the battery low status just below my new thread. But, I didn't want to muddy up that one with a random Q which may not be related in kind. So, I have several Q's for the members: When will the HL2 ever display the new battery level status? Will I have to remove the 2420 from the HL2, then replace the unit with a new battery, then re-enroll the device just so it will display and track the correct state of charge?? You can see this may pose a serious problem with respect to when the device, or software, ISY may interpret when to flag a low battery condition. Is the battery condition state of charge in the HL2 accurate to start with?? Insight Teken . . .

How does one test and verify the new SwitchLinc Timer functions? Is this regarding that switch *bit* discussed in another thread? Teken . . .

I don't know what has happened but my ISY has seriously just locked up and melted down. It will not let me restore from a back up. And pops up these Java error messages along with this one message I have never seen before. I do not have the ELK module or system. I do not have the MorningLinc etc. Teken . . . UPDATE: Well, it looks like something has given up the ghost. The ISY now says my login credentials are not authorized. I can not connect to the box what so ever . . . Right now its unplugged, along with the dual band PLM. Maybe it needs a good rest and a nap? Teken . . .

For everyone's future reference the 2443 AP's are v2.0 with a production date of 0933. The other set of 2443 AP's are v2.0 with a production date of 0945. I have a spare 2487S hopefully arriving next week. So, I will perform some open air tests and some simulated J box installs on the work bench to see what happens. What I am trying to gauge is how much of the RF output is being dispersed and also being smothered in the J Box. ELA, it would be greatly appreciated if you could perform some RF tests with the ELAM so we could have some sort of base line. I just want something to compare to for future reference. Teken . . .

Some have with no ill affects. While I am of the opinion you should adhere to the vendors stated caution against doing so. If you touch the PLM you will note the relative amount of heat given off by this device. This, besides the ISY is the heart of the system. Teken . . .

Everything you have indicated above is correct. What I don't understand is how can the right hand side dual band 2457D2 unit I have show a same phase / leg. When the same test is performed using the 2487S? Yet, when you perform the exact same test in the reverse the bridging test shows a opposite leg, with incorrect bridging??

ELA, I will even do you one better. I have one 2487S installed, to the right of this switch is a dual band 2457D2 this module is seven feet away. Exactly another seven feet to the left is a 2443 Access Point. When I perform a 4 tap bridge test from the 2457D2 its LED is green, and the 2487S will flash the four center keys. In my mind this indicates that the two are bridged and on opposite phases. While these two modules are blinking away to the left of them is the 2443 AP module which also shows its green and blinking. Again, in my mind the expectation is that they (all 3 modules) are bridged and on opposite legs of the electrical system. Here is the problem: I have another 2457D2 in the kitchen. This module is literally 17 feet from all three modules. When I perform the exact same phase bridge test this device shows it too is communicating, and also on the opposite leg of the electrical system. Now here is where this whole dual band thing makes me wonder: IF, I attempt to perform the exact same bridge phase test from only the 2487S switch. Guess what happens? The 2457D2 on the right will blink RED?? WTF with that?? All the while the 2443 AP on the left shows its green, and bridged?? Walking into the kitchen, I observe that the other 2457D2 is doing absolutely nothing! So, I am at this time extremely confused and ask the general UDI collective for their thoughts. Because there are some things that simply do not track and make sense to me. EDIT: I also observe the same problem of standing in the path of the 2457D2, and this device will show flashing green (Kitchen unit) to red. It clearly shows me that my body is deflecting the RF signal. So, this is the part I am trying to grasp here: Is the coupling for these dual band devices RF only?? Because it appears this way to me, and *IF* it is, then why does the insertion of the mp3 charger, and other related transformer interfere with the RF aspect?? Teken . . .

LeeG, Thanks for confirming. Teken . . .

Is this word DON correct ?? Teken . . .

Does this release correct the misworded phrase of *DON* back to *ON*? I ask, because I noted this during a test I performed last night while enrolling a new KPL dimmer. I was under the impression that 3.1.14 had corrected this typo? I will install 3.1.15 and report back if I see this word again during the enrolling process. Teken . . .

Michel, When you receive the new unit could you please include the firmware, production date, along with the ISY version number. If you're able to get that portion working it would be most excellent! As always, I thank you and the UDI team . . . Teken . . .

I will confirm this behavior, once I am off work. Teken . . .

As far as I am aware what you're describing is the expected behavior. *IF* you turn the TimerLinc on locally, you will see that the 15 minute, 1-2-3 etc timers do operate. *IF* you turn on the TimerLinc from another switch / ISY. That TimerLinc will only function as a SwitchLinc Relay. Now, If you link the TimerLinc to another Insteon device which acts as a responder in part of another scene. My expectation is that all those devices would indeed turn on / off with the local timer settings, *IF* you turn it on locally. Others may clarify or expand my explanation so it is 100% accurate. Teken . . .

Chris, I don't want to sound like a broken record. But, I would ask you to kindly confirm there is absolutely nothing plugged in that could cause any sort of comm issues. It will take less time to unplug all the devices in that area, or even better to simply kill the breakers to determine if there are other factors at play here. Even if you get the KPL enrolled, if there are noise / signal suckers in the environment you will not have a 100% reliable network. Please double check the home for anything new, or old items that may be affecting your network. Worse case, you find nothing, and simply enroll the KPL via the temp cord. If it enrolls fine, and then when you install it in its final resting place and there are still comm issues. Then, you know there are gremlins still abound that require your attention . . . BTW: If you haven't rebooted and updated the firmware lately that would be a good start too!

Chris, As painful as this may sound. If you have ensured proper bridging of both legs of the single phase of your electrical system. Also, if you have removed, filtered, or identified all noise and signal suckers with in the building. The most direct approach is to take that switch and wire it in to a spare cord / romex what ever. Then, link it, reinstall the device, then you should be good to go. I had three installs where there was absolutely no interference, no problems with correct bridging of the both legs, or otherwise. Came down to, too much wire from one end of the home for the signal to arrive, and then ack the ISY commands. After wiring the KPL's, switches, outlets, to a temp cord and enrolling the device it was all green and good to go. Teken . . .

What is the cost for the X10 motion sensors?

Yes, your not kidding! Trying to maneuver all those #12 in a tiny shallow J box was incredibly time consuming and finger breaking! But, alas it was done even if it took 45 minutes . . . On a related note I placed one of those foam weather coverings on top of the decora cover. It seems to have dampened the noise quite a bit. You can still hear the *hiss* if you put your ear to it, but it is less noticeable now. The only reason I mention this noise in the first place is that it literally sounds like something is about to catch fire! Teken . . .

Hello IndyMike, The noise is apparent in both on / off modes. I was aware that the device was deeper but didn't think it would be so difficult to install! It literally took me 45 minutes just to get the single gang wiring bundle in the proper place just to get the switch in place! The on / off is the loudest I have ever heard from any Insteon device I have on site. On a related note I would appreciate it if you could do a few tests and relay your personal experience with respect to the LED output doing it manually, and via the ISY. Here is the thread discussing the findings: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7561 Teken . . .

After listening to it on and off for about an hour. The actual sound appears to be a hissing noise?? It doesn't appear to be affecting anything right now that I can tell. All of the portable phones, and wireless Internet all seem to be fine. I am going to do some RF tests and see what comes from this unit. Teken . . .

So this week I received my 2487S dual band KPL relay. To my surprise this device has a very noticeable buzzing coming from within the unit?? So to confirm if any of the others KPL's buzz I went around the house and removed the decora style covers and couldn't hear a thing. I went back to the new KPL, factory reset it, and even tried to switch the line to neutral to see if it made any difference, nope. From there I used a test cord and wired in the KPL and sure enough the incessant buzzing continues! Has anyone experienced such a thing with any of their Insteon products?? Teken . . .

Michel, As always, I thank you for your insight and guidance. Teken . . .