Teken

Hrmm, selecting the different options shows base is: $0.99, relay $1.29, base and relay is $2.25?

Exactly, this is why it's important to measure many facets because there are going to be conditions / scenarios which can't be seen without other monitoring methods. A similar conversation came up about tracking a fridge / freezer. My input was it was imperative to monitor as many things you could because each one addressed scenarios not seen by the other monitors. I.e. Temp, power, voltage, current. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is your budget and are there any caveats to know about? [emoji848] The most direct route is to purchase a Aeotec smart plug that measures energy and you can take those metrics and send to the ISY Series Controller for tracking, email, and historic recall. If you want to measure water flow this will require more investment and other auxiliary devices. I personally measure everything from line voltage, power, current, PF, KWH, cycles, duration, costs, etc. Everything is tracked, graphed, and stored on site and off site to review and share to those I want to. NOTE: Since your system is 220 / 240 VAC a energy monitor is the most direct route. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will select the older Motion Sensor now for enrollment. The hardware is still very much hobbled perhaps 5.0.11 Alpha will be forth coming by January 2018.

Great video thanks for sharing really looking forward to this being deployed in v3.

Thanks for sharing, but the video was disabled would you so happen to have a direct link?

True enough but my level expectation for the HUB II has been very low! More on point the developers API needs to be followed and employed when known. To be fair to UDI there have been many occasions where the Insteon API was less than clear or didn't actually work as stated. No one should be expected to spend countless hours, days, months to reverse engineer something that the people who build it. Should have tested, validated, and proven in the wild to work as intended!! Regardless of the above the feature options I have listed up above are well known, documented, and proven to work. It really comes down to setting aside development time to offer them in the next firmware releases. Let's also avoid making the assertion *How many people have asked for it* either! That's like saying how many people use Air Conditioning in the Arctic Circle or places where it gets extremely cold like my area. It doesn't matter the car came with AC if I want to use it ~ It should be there if and when I need it. All of these features are present in the various Insteon hardware they simply need to be fully supported so who ever sees a need can use it (IF) and when required.

My $0.00000000001 at some point there will be a failure in the system. Doing it right the first go round using the correct sensor will 100% solve the current problem and avoid future problems when programming and trouble shooting arise. Memory is short in a years time never mind five years later! There is zero benefit following the current path while a cheap effective solution costs a mere $2~10.00 for the correct sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only pain point in all of this is the ISY Series Controller continues to omit key options from various Insteon pieces of hardware. [emoji35] When the HUB II & HL2 support almost all features & options that's an indicator something is missing and lagging behind. I really wish to see feature parity in the future once 5.X.X is finally released as Beta / RC. I've been stopped in a few projects where I needed the dual nodes for the open - close sensor, plugin dimmer module, siren, and less we all forget the motion sensor III !!! [emoji36] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this on new or old hardware as I see the options on both switch linc dimmers and KPL. I also have them on legacy single band hardware so more insight would be great.

Lets back up for a moment so we are on the same page and for the benefit of others who may find this thread later. This model (AC10-500) will not link to the Insteon Smoke Bridge just so we are clear as its a One Link by name, not function. If you intend to purchase what the other member noted which is the 120 VAC hardwired SA521CN One Link smoke only that will connect fine with the Insteon Smoke Bridge. You may also purchase the battery only SCO501CN-3ST combination talking smoke & CO which also links fine to the Insteon Smoke Bridge. Bottom line the AC10-500 can't be used with the Insteon Smoke Bridge . . .

As I stated early on the unit you have is NOT a true *One Link* and won't link to the Insteon Smoke Bridge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The system once linked will provide what ever 7 condition is present: Smoke, CO, Low Battery, Malfunction, Clear, Test, Unknown. So if you link a properly recognized *One Link* it will communicate to the Insteon Smoke Bridge. If this is simply a *Branded One Link* its not going to do anything and won't link to the Smoke Bridge. As an aside for those of you who own the Smoke & CO when the products CO has expired it will indicate a *Malfunction*. Also, the stupid thing won't actually tell you its expired just that there is a malfunction and if you look it up in the super thin paper manual it will say replace blah blah. Just so you know depending upon when you purchased the Smoke & CO detector it will either have a 5 / 7 year working life. Smoke only have a 10 year working life and when I say working First Alert put in a self destruct timer from the time you insert the first battery!!

No problem I laughed ~ Been called worse. When you select the H button what does the ISY Series Controller indicate as to what links are associated to it: Controller / Responder?

- Reboot the ISY Series Controller ~ What happens? - How many devices are still being controlled by this errant H button? If only a few it might be easier to delete them from the scene. - Did you ever manually link these device before you had a ISY Series Controller? If so you need to delete and add back using the ISY Series Controller. - You can always try a *Device Restore* on one random device to see if it stops or solves this issue.

Hard reset require you to pull the set button and wait ten seconds. Than push all the way in and hold until the device beeps and flashes the connected load. Than release . . . For good measure delete the device then add it back. What happens then? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm pretty certain the $119.XX One Link you bought that supports WiFi is in name only and does not link to older 900 RF units. As First Alert in their infinite wisdom decided to use the One Link to denote their new line of Smart Products etc. You can see this in the full users manual because it will say / won't say links to X smoke detectors showing the linking enrolling process. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Chris, Don't be too upset with your self. Having been in the same field for many years, at work there is always a SOP, Best Practices, Validation, Dog Food Testing, etc. [emoji851] One would think these daily tasks always translate to home life. [emoji848] They don't . . .

Depending upon how old, type of Freon, If the freezer is operating correctly. A low temp could be as simple as low freon, bad TSAT, bad thermistor, to literally its not insulated well enough. As an aside, the Energy Star program has revamped the methods and requirements to obtain said ratings. What does this mean to the Average Joe? It means if you buy a 2017 freezer that states X for energy and Y for annual costs. It will be more accurate than what has been offered in previous years. As there were many companies (name who ever) that were scamming and not following the actual guide lines. The one thing I am going to do should the opportunity present itself is to purchase a top loading freezer opposed to a standing unit. Offers a larger margin of long term cooling vs a standing unit . . . Having said that make sure you purchase a quality name brand that has good reviews!!

What is the reason the two freezers are set to different cooling points? Icing / frost build up is primary due to the amount of humidity (moisture) that is allowed to enter the interior. Opening and closing the door and how long the door remains open contribute to this also. Also keep in mind the method and installation of the measurement tool will add / subtract from the recorded value. IE. If the sensor is directly placed on a frozen item this will give you one measurement. Placing the sensor inside of a substrate material like sand / beads will reduce and offset immediate temp drops. Suspending the sensor in *Free Air* will offer immediate and instant air temperature readings. From a purely diagnostic and *Nerd* view point I use all three methods to measure the environment. Going this route will ensure when there is a hardware failure you will absolutely know how the food stuff is performing.

Sandry, You're awesome and you know it!

Hello MrBill, TANGENT ALERT: What you're observing is actually normal for a freezer / fridge. What is of prime importance is how long it takes for the temps to increase. How long the (run time) number of cycle it takes to achieve the defined temperature. On the surface one would think both would be the same from loss to cooling ~ they are not! A loss of temperature is directly related to the amount, type, and method of insulation and sealing. Cooling (Cycle Time) comes down to the method employed by the hardware appliance manufacture. IE. Coils on the side, top, bottom, in the holding trays. The volume of the unit, type of food, and outside ambient temperatures. Unless physical space is at a premium in the home neither a fridge or freezer should ever be placed outside or in a garage. For every 2 degree's above 70'F will increase the run time & cycles from a few minutes to hours. Also, a empty freezer will lose temperature faster, a freezer that is 50% full will take longer, a freezer 100% full will of course take much longer. This is why its imperative to load the freezer with bottles of water / freezer packs. This offers not only stable temperatures, but reduced run time, cycles, and in case of an electrical outage. More time to keep the food cold while you resolve the issues. Lastly, 0'F is called out by lots of people in the Interwebs. I've found in my personal real world testing the ideal balance of energy consumption, safe (long term) food storage, and stable temps is -5 to -10'F. Setting your freezer below that value is a waste of energy and impacts the foods taste, color, and Vietminh content. TANGENT END . . .

Based on Stu's initial reply I had to check my own system because I swear unless I was losing my mind. I did in fact have several 4 button RL2 that sort correctly. I have to assume the OP has a UI & Firmware conflict or there is a firmware change in the RL2 that is causing this. As seen in this image capture mine is sorted correctly . . . The 4 button RL2's I have report in as having been produced in 2014, 24th week, revision 1.5S, ISY v.37 firmware EDIT: Scratch that Stu is correct my 8 button RL2 (Top Button) is not sorted correctly. Looks to be normal for what ever reason.

Hello Steve, Is the UI & Firmware both at the same revision? You can see this in Help -> About Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Steve, The listing is spelling dependent. If you use a numeric value preceding the name it will not sort correctly and vice versa. Simple test just name the button A, B and you will see. If you name it 1A and B you will understand why the buttons appear out of order. [emoji846] Also at the top select A-Z this will sort it alphabetically. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk