Teken

Don, Take your time, some key things for a long term deployment is enjoyable and solid. - Decide on a naming schema that makes sense and is scale-able. - Variables: Append (I) for Integer (s) for State this will help when selecting and identifying them for programs. - Use the notes option to record Insteon ID, Hardware Specs like production, install date, firmware. - Always make a back up *before* a big change is done and afterwards. - Do not select the *Enable Internet* it has nothing to do with the Internet per say.

Not going to happen unless your using Insteon RF or power line. Have tried installing the signal bridge at the service panel? Also if you have a outdoor outlet a Rube Goldberg method is to install a plugin dual band device very high up in a outdoor rated enclosure. I've done this on four installs this year alone. One was for a hobby farm and another for a guy who owned a home mechanic shop. Worked great and both spanned over 150 feet. I used the on-off relay as its small and offers the longest range when compared to the older hardware. It also enables you to tell if RF vs Power line is making a difference because you can toggle either one off. Absolutely helps identify and prove reception is done by either one. Good luck! [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you offer a screen capture of you selecting one of those switches and than show us the primary window pane?

Well besides the safety shutter ~ must have bent two prongs just trying to insert the bloody thing!!

Glad you got that sorted out because if you showed me that picture and I was the CSR. The only thing I would have asked is what's your address for the replacement. I haven't seen that ever happen but can affirm those freaking plugs and the On-Off module plugs are tight like tiger! I had a fixture attached to the On-Off relay module upon removing the plug it quickly yanked away. I looked down and found one of the pins still embedded into the clamps. Must have taken me ten minutes to pry that prong loose . . .

I can tell you if someone is so cheap they can't afford to spend $2.25 for what appears to be incredible value. Everything else they have in their home / lives is cheap and living on borrowed time . . .

Hrmm, selecting the different options shows base is: $0.99, relay $1.29, base and relay is $2.25?

Exactly, this is why it's important to measure many facets because there are going to be conditions / scenarios which can't be seen without other monitoring methods. A similar conversation came up about tracking a fridge / freezer. My input was it was imperative to monitor as many things you could because each one addressed scenarios not seen by the other monitors. I.e. Temp, power, voltage, current. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is your budget and are there any caveats to know about? [emoji848] The most direct route is to purchase a Aeotec smart plug that measures energy and you can take those metrics and send to the ISY Series Controller for tracking, email, and historic recall. If you want to measure water flow this will require more investment and other auxiliary devices. I personally measure everything from line voltage, power, current, PF, KWH, cycles, duration, costs, etc. Everything is tracked, graphed, and stored on site and off site to review and share to those I want to. NOTE: Since your system is 220 / 240 VAC a energy monitor is the most direct route. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will select the older Motion Sensor now for enrollment. The hardware is still very much hobbled perhaps 5.0.11 Alpha will be forth coming by January 2018.

Great video thanks for sharing really looking forward to this being deployed in v3.

Thanks for sharing, but the video was disabled would you so happen to have a direct link?

True enough but my level expectation for the HUB II has been very low! More on point the developers API needs to be followed and employed when known. To be fair to UDI there have been many occasions where the Insteon API was less than clear or didn't actually work as stated. No one should be expected to spend countless hours, days, months to reverse engineer something that the people who build it. Should have tested, validated, and proven in the wild to work as intended!! Regardless of the above the feature options I have listed up above are well known, documented, and proven to work. It really comes down to setting aside development time to offer them in the next firmware releases. Let's also avoid making the assertion *How many people have asked for it* either! That's like saying how many people use Air Conditioning in the Arctic Circle or places where it gets extremely cold like my area. It doesn't matter the car came with AC if I want to use it ~ It should be there if and when I need it. All of these features are present in the various Insteon hardware they simply need to be fully supported so who ever sees a need can use it (IF) and when required.

My $0.00000000001 at some point there will be a failure in the system. Doing it right the first go round using the correct sensor will 100% solve the current problem and avoid future problems when programming and trouble shooting arise. Memory is short in a years time never mind five years later! There is zero benefit following the current path while a cheap effective solution costs a mere $2~10.00 for the correct sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only pain point in all of this is the ISY Series Controller continues to omit key options from various Insteon pieces of hardware. [emoji35] When the HUB II & HL2 support almost all features & options that's an indicator something is missing and lagging behind. I really wish to see feature parity in the future once 5.X.X is finally released as Beta / RC. I've been stopped in a few projects where I needed the dual nodes for the open - close sensor, plugin dimmer module, siren, and less we all forget the motion sensor III !!! [emoji36] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this on new or old hardware as I see the options on both switch linc dimmers and KPL. I also have them on legacy single band hardware so more insight would be great.

Lets back up for a moment so we are on the same page and for the benefit of others who may find this thread later. This model (AC10-500) will not link to the Insteon Smoke Bridge just so we are clear as its a One Link by name, not function. If you intend to purchase what the other member noted which is the 120 VAC hardwired SA521CN One Link smoke only that will connect fine with the Insteon Smoke Bridge. You may also purchase the battery only SCO501CN-3ST combination talking smoke & CO which also links fine to the Insteon Smoke Bridge. Bottom line the AC10-500 can't be used with the Insteon Smoke Bridge . . .

As I stated early on the unit you have is NOT a true *One Link* and won't link to the Insteon Smoke Bridge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The system once linked will provide what ever 7 condition is present: Smoke, CO, Low Battery, Malfunction, Clear, Test, Unknown. So if you link a properly recognized *One Link* it will communicate to the Insteon Smoke Bridge. If this is simply a *Branded One Link* its not going to do anything and won't link to the Smoke Bridge. As an aside for those of you who own the Smoke & CO when the products CO has expired it will indicate a *Malfunction*. Also, the stupid thing won't actually tell you its expired just that there is a malfunction and if you look it up in the super thin paper manual it will say replace blah blah. Just so you know depending upon when you purchased the Smoke & CO detector it will either have a 5 / 7 year working life. Smoke only have a 10 year working life and when I say working First Alert put in a self destruct timer from the time you insert the first battery!!

No problem I laughed ~ Been called worse. When you select the H button what does the ISY Series Controller indicate as to what links are associated to it: Controller / Responder?

- Reboot the ISY Series Controller ~ What happens? - How many devices are still being controlled by this errant H button? If only a few it might be easier to delete them from the scene. - Did you ever manually link these device before you had a ISY Series Controller? If so you need to delete and add back using the ISY Series Controller. - You can always try a *Device Restore* on one random device to see if it stops or solves this issue.

Hard reset require you to pull the set button and wait ten seconds. Than push all the way in and hold until the device beeps and flashes the connected load. Than release . . . For good measure delete the device then add it back. What happens then? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm pretty certain the $119.XX One Link you bought that supports WiFi is in name only and does not link to older 900 RF units. As First Alert in their infinite wisdom decided to use the One Link to denote their new line of Smart Products etc. You can see this in the full users manual because it will say / won't say links to X smoke detectors showing the linking enrolling process. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Chris, Don't be too upset with your self. Having been in the same field for many years, at work there is always a SOP, Best Practices, Validation, Dog Food Testing, etc. [emoji851] One would think these daily tasks always translate to home life. [emoji848] They don't . . .

LOL ~ Always the optimist . . .