Teken

You will get no argument from me about *Local First vs Cloud First*. There is a time and place for cloud hosted services and that isn't in the home where you own and use a product daily. Makes zero sense in tying in a product you purchased to someone else's network which you have no control over its uptime, security, and privacy. The only reason *Cloud First* exists is because it caters to the stupid and cheap from companies & consumers. I've said this probably hundreds of times over the years but I can assure you in the not too distant future. The *Cloud* will crumble and those using said cloud will be holding the virtual empty bag. Think Amazon AWS ~ Fail . . . Think hurricane Irma: Texas, Florida, Puerto Rico ~ Fail . . . Think DDOS DNS ~ Fail . . . Think North Korea: 4 major Internet hacking disruptions ~ Fail . . .

LOL ~ Everyone needs to weigh out the Risks vs Rewards.

I would agree if the Insteon Smoke Bridge product was continually improved upon say having a back up battery. Upon power loss the hardware should send out its last known state. Unfortunately there seems to be certain products for what ever reason they are created and left to die in the public domain. I'm not sure why any multi-million dollar company would come up with a product and never try to improve upon it. From reading and talking to some of the developers and engineers of the past it was simply the direction they were told to take. Whether or not the new guy who owns Smartlabs / Insteon will do the same who knows . . . Lastly, it should be made clear the Smoke Bridge was one of the first Home Automation product that enabled a person to make a dumb smoke detector ~ smart. Since its initial release there has been no less than five companies offering similar *Smart Features*. Some are very much Plug & Play and offer basic notification while others offer some incredible features but the price vs value starts to fade. If people take the Smoke Bridge for what it is and that is having the ability to link to their Insteon network to activate their lights during an emergency that purpose has been met and works as intended. Anything else is just gravy . . .

I believe most of us can agree the bulk of us are on this forum and home automation industry because we like to tinker, learn, and make things work. But when life and safety is the primary goal it makes little to no sense in going the DIY route. As you stated the home is already prewired so all you need to do is purchase and install what ever flavor of security alarm system you desire that meets your budget and needs. At some point DIY security alarm projects make little sense when an off the shelf certified piece of hardware is so cheap to buy. When I see, read, hear about people who go the DIY route of security 9 times out of ten these are the same people who also self monitor. That is a recipe for disaster and fail waiting to happen . . .

I didn't see your edit until now but what exactly is your concern about the Smoke Bridge?

The ISY Series Controller does not support or subscribe to the *All Hazards* alert services in Aeris. Therefor there is no *current* ability to be notified of a Tornado event. This is why I'm working toward a smart weather hardware solution that will support All Hazards, S.A.M.E. and local weather for casts etc.

Perhaps in 2018 the market will see more *Instant Status* hardware from all the major Z-Wave vendors. The patent that governs that specific feature ran out a year ago or so.

You're comparing apples to oranges where one is a consumer grade vs commercial grade. Most commercial grade ZigBee sensors also don't cost under $34.99 either. Lastly, in post 5 I encourage anyone who truly cares about the advancement of Insteon products to lend their voice here: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list I can tell you from personal experience and historic perspective the bulk of the people complaining never do a damn thing to further the cause. One only needs to look at the 2413S PLM Pro *Wish List* idea. As of this writing there are 3553 views yet there are only 51 likes?!? What does that say about the average Insteon user??? They don't care . . .

The fact in 2017 a person still needs to even consider this is quite comical. But hey it is what it is . . .

Insteon or any home automation system is not intended for true security. It can be an added layer that incorporates with a true security alarm system. Insteon does not comply with any UL / cUL burglary alarm standards which there are many. I know its all the rage to integrate with X & Y. Don't . . .

Hello, Would you please offer a image capture of your ISY Series Controller SMTP settings. Please delete any private data that may be relevant as seen below. Does your settings look similar to mine? Pay special attention to the port number and the *FROM* field as this must be populated.

- Upgrading the firmware wipes the old and installs a new one on to the EPROM. - The most common ISY Series Controller failure(s) ( by this its not common ~ just what happens ) is a improperly seated Micro SD card, Failing Micro SD card, Failing power supply. - The next most common problem is a failing Insteon 2413S PLM ~ Which you're quite aware of. - The next most common problem for *Perceived COMM* issues is due to noise makers / signal suckers in the home. ========================================================================= Since you're committed to hard resetting every single Insteon device and literally starting from scratch. If you find after rebuilding your Insteon network there are still issues like devices not turning on / off. Its more likely you have communication issues which are related to noise makers / signal suckers. The most direct approach is to unplug every device in the home and do a scene test via the Admin Console. If everything operates as you expect and there aren't any comm issues or delays you will simply add one single electrical device until there is an issue. Your choices are remove, replace, filter the offending device. Let me know if you need more insight or guidance . . .

Your controller will come back up as using 4.5.4. Having said this you need to be on 4.6.2 as this added lots of improvements and squished previous bugs. It also ensures if you had the weather module it will continue to operate. Anything below that level of firmware would have disabled the weather module. Loading 4.6.2 firmware will ensure the controller is fine. Ensure you follow up with a hard reboot after the soft reboot has completed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sandry, Where is the ISY Series Controller on that topology map I don't see it listed? Also, does this router have the ability to set NAT reflection, redirect target ports?

Right now is the new network set to be in DHCP mode? If so are all of the network appliances in the home also set to DHCP? If no, ensure any network appliances IP address is confirmed and validated from one another. ie. Ensure there are no IP conflicts on the network If your 100% sure no IP conflicts the next logical step is to ping the ISY Series Controller ~ If it replies good ~ If not resolve. If we assume the controller is on the network and there are no IP conflicts the next step is to verify you can ping any external services / devices from your location. If you can good ~ If not resolve. Its worth mentioning that if you have a router modem which most ISP offer today. You will have two conditions which you need to resolve and that is double NATing. There is nothing wrong with a double NAT environment so long as you understand there is extra steps to allow inbound vs outbound access. If you simply bridged the new router half the pain is eliminated but there are other considerations to be resolved. I don't know what your network topology looks like so its hard to say what else besides follow the basics. In my personal environment its extremely complex and none of the ISP technicians ever come into my home with out a tier 3 support staff! LOL

Since you literally just set up a new network I would confirm all your network attributes are correct. I would probably check any firewall rules on that new router as a starter.

Sorry, I forgot to add if you're going to purchase a Z-Wave switch of any kind ensure it supports *Instant Status*. Otherwise you're going to really pull your hair out of your head! NOTE: There are only a few Z-Wave manufactures that support *Instant Status*. LOL . . .

Just in case some of the different major brands escapes you these are the most common: Arrow, Eaton, Cooper, Leviton, Pass & Seymour (P&S), Hubbell. There are many 2nd & 3rd tier switch makers too but this is more for information than anything for common brands. Circle back and let us know how things turn out ~ Good vs Bad.

A quick search for just the Leviton branded ELV dimmers shows the prices range from $26 ~ 65.XX. I would keep other brands on your list just in case your location doesn't carry them locally. Then again that's why they created the Internet for shopping: Amazon, Ebay, Home Depot, Lowes, Who ever . . . I can tell you with a high level of confidence the hum / buzz will only irritate you as time goes on. No clue if Smartlabs will ever update their hardware to support more *Typical Loads* now seen in the open market place. Lastly, as you noted dimming that specific load with out a ELV dimmer will in the long run damage the PSU in the LED fixture. Clearly, Nurff foot ball was never on your radar . . .

For the benefit of others who may stumble upon this thread even though the product you're using doesn't *Officially Support* LED fixtures. Tens of millions of people have been doing so with great results. You can count me as one of those millions who have had nothing but positive results using Insteon and LED bulbs. The key is to find, test, and validate said load is fine in all manner of operations from turning on, turning off, no hum, buzz, flicker, to strobing. As noted there are several other Insteon dimmable hardware and they are Switch Linc which you have in place now. The Micro Dimmer which allows you to make a *Dumb* switch smart and still keep that classic switch in place. Then, there is the Inline Linc which does state it supports LED loads and various others. The problem as you clearly stated is the fixture is 30 feet in the air and I personally would not entertain placing any Insteon hardware in those extreme heights. You have to be mental to think long term that is a good idea . . . Regardless, the link you provided looks good and (IF) you were going to migrate to Z-Wave ~ Why not. Its pretty expansive for a switch but if it works that's all that matters. Having said this there is a Leviton ELV (None Smart) dimmer which I would encourage you to use and test first. Why??? Because it will 100% identify and eliminate the fixture as the root cause. You don't want to buy a $120.XX Z-Wave switch only to find out it still buzzes & hums! I would humbly suggest you purchase one of those $25.00 Leviton ELV dimmers form Home Depot and find out first and you can return it later if it passes this basic test.

The product specifications calls out dimmable using ELV dimmers ~ Insteon is not! Insteon uses Leading Edge vs ELV is Trailing Edge power drivers.

The are only a few Insteon devices which state it supports LED loads which are the ILL and the other thing which I can't recall?!? I believe its the ballast thingy but that's for electronic ballasts!

Your options based on stress vs reward: Replace the load with another LED brand, Install a Micro Dimmer at the fixture, Install incandescent / halogen bulbs which the switch is rated for, add a small incandescent load to the branch circuit.

No worries ~ If at some point you replace the old hardware with new. If you're feeling handy you can engage me directly and I will offer you a link to a *How To* to replace the capacitors. The worst case the hardware was going into the trash ~ Best case you gave it another 5~10 years of service life just by replacing a few cheap capacitors!

Hello Sandry, The ISY Series Controller needs to be hard booted. Its possible you may have a few programs in a tight loop or too many running in parallel. You can determine this by simply disabling all programs and activating them one by one until there is a fault. Also, if you have lots of *Run at Startup* programs this too can cause issues.