Teken

Yes . . .

LMAO I have no words . . . [emoji848][emoji33][emoji50][emoji23]

In the ideal world ZigBee would encompass all of the different profiles into one global standard. Sadly, nobody in the ZigBee camp thought that far and hence the massive limitations. And people wounder why adoption in the home automation industry is so disjointed and lack luster.

The ISY does not support the ZigBee HA profile just energy monitoring / management. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Can you offer a better picture of the entire PCB of the unit. The ones posted here are really poor quality. Also, is there anything else inside of the unit that appears burnt or exploded?

Was the burned section inside of the case when you opened it?

I probably wouldn't tempt fate and use that AC unit on that replacement dual outlet linc you receive. For what ever reason the specs for the unit are pretty sparse and indicates only 600 watts incandescent and 15 amp *all other* loads. Normally this would not bother me for most hardware devices but Smartlabs hasn't been known to get a product right the first go round. The On-Off Module does however clearly indicate the rating for various loads: - General Appliances: 15 amps - Resistive: 15 amps - Incandescent: 1800 watts - Motors: 1 HP I realize its a wall wart and negates the whole purpose of a clean install. But, if your going to use them and they are going to blow why go through the headache?

That is certainly a good method to use for single device. But if more than one has been added that way - mistakes could happen unless the person is totally on the ball and tracks the Insteon ID's. I've always just named the new device similar to the old but use numeric values at the end. I do this to help me track replacements so there is no guessing 1-5 years from now what area was done because of an upgrade vs product failure.

Just to add to Stu's information unless there is a very specific reason for a On/Off Relay Switch. You should purchase a dimmer style as it allows so many options in terms of scene (mood) lighting. It goes with out saying it also directly translates to energy savings in your home. Matched to proven and quality LED lights your home can have all the benefits of ambient to task lighting when and if required. All the while saving energy and reduction in monthly electrical costs.

Good catch LeeG - I wrote that backwards ha . . .

Did you make both a controller when adding them to the scene? If not you need to so it indicates the correct state / status.

Also best practice is to make an immediate back up once the new device is in place. Create a read me text document with the back up file which should remind you this back up includes the new device(s). Memory is short 6-12 months from now and when the uneatable 2413S PLM failure approaches you won't understand why the system keeps crying it can't find said hardware device. Because it doesn't exist . . .

1. Add the new switch and name it something different: Kitchen New vs Kitchen 2. Go to the device tree and select the old switch and right mouse click and select replace with a list of devices will appear. You will of course select Kitchen New or what ever its named. 3. The system will begin the replacement process and once done the Admin Console will close. Log back into the Admin Console, you will notice the old switch is now gone and is replaced with Kitchen New. Rinse and repeat this process . . . NOTE: You must *Initially* name the new device something different. Failure to do so will confuse the system and it will corrupt any links / programming you had in place. Once the replacement process is complete you can change the device name to the original.

LOL much better shape . . . Didn't notice you added in the Minneapolis link and out of all of them that one looks to be in great shape. The one going for $900.XX is also in decent shape but has some blemishes on the front in the center unless thats a piece of fluff / dust.

McIntosh was a very high end audio maker in the past and continues to be. But sadly the seller is having a wet dream if he believes that amp will fetch $1200.XX USD. The whole Ad screams sucker . . . You can tell he didn't take very much care in the power amplifier as its been beaten to death. On the Audiogon rating scale he would get a F for cosmetics alone. I personally don't believe he spent $800.00 to supposedly get the amp tuned. If he did it just means hes just another sucker who falls in the same audio camp who truly believe spending $2K on a power cable will *Open the sound stage* like its some kind of fairy dust to these people. Having been heavily invested in the high end audio / video arena the single most negative thing that has come out of the field. Are the countless pansy reviewers who use words and phrases only a used car salesmen could appreciate. Companies like Bryston, Krell, Livingston, Nakamichi, etc don't need unicorn fairy dust to sell there wares. The equipment is just solid and built to last unlike all of the latest toys on the market place. Back in the day companies like Bob Carver, DBX, Onkyo, Sony, Denon, all made incredible A/V gear. Sadly, most of the stuff being churned out is pretty mediocre.

Generally speaking everything should be added and scenes created using the ISY Series Controller. Failure to do so will not allow the controller to know the true state of the device(s). Also there may be instances where the controller may crawl the Insteon network and cause unintended actions. There are however some instances where linking directly to the end device is needed or required. They are when the ISY does not formally support said hardware device like the latest Alert Module. Another instance is where you wish to run an isolated network like a separate controller say the HUB II because it offers you some random feature not seen on the ISY. Lastly, there may be instances where the controller is having issues linking the device(s) so a interim fix is to link them directly until root cause is determined.

My thoughts on the topic at hand is its always great to have options. The free market was built upon the principle of having options and I see all of these different platforms as an option for those either technically inclined or not. I know in past threads Michel replied back that he struggled with making the ISY Portal a subscription based service. Like me, he isn't a fan of subscription based services but made it so. My understanding is the portal will be a nice extension of the ISY and not reliant on it. Unfortunately at some point there will be features or services which are dependent on the portal where it literally makes the user dependent on it. So this is a slippery slope to be in moving forward . . . Speaking for myself only its very hard for me to accept paying anyone for something I own. But on the other hand I see great value in the portal because in a round about way it helps the company see steady revenue. The reality is its near impossible to keep making money over the long term simply on new buyers alone. Once you buy the controller and all of software modules - what other reoccurring income will UDI ever see? None . . . So, for me spending $49.00 USD every two years is a small return on investment which UDI has given me ten times over. Anyone who has been here long enough knows I have no problem throwing anyone under the bus. Much less expressing my thoughts about various topics that come up from time to time. Even though I wish UDI would take on a different approach on various features / services. Ultimately the company and its product is the best in class in almost every area from customer service, support, and product development. The UDI team has been working hard in the development of the Z-Wave platform and know at some point it will be the market leader in the same. Michel is passionate about his company, people, and the world as a whole.

As others mentioned there are several software options to complete the same. But, honestly using the switch I listed will offer you bullet proof response and operations. If and when the 3:00 AM Query completes you better get ready for more trouble shooting and hair loss. For me $17.XX is money well spent knowing its just going to work, forever . . .

I haven't read too many reviews of the battery only smoke / co units. But know many of the false alarms people get per year are normally user issues or placement issues. I don't know how many still use ion vs photo sensors but many times basic dusk build up along with those who smoke have caused many false nuisance trips. Couple this with people not running the exhaust fan long enough after a long steamy shower / bath. To those who insist upon letting water boil on the stove forever and having a smoke detector only mere feet from said appliance?!?! That is just a recipe for disaster along with the fact so many people are too lazy to do any of the basic checks per month / year. I've written about this problem probably more times than I care to recall - so when I read, hear, or see people die or lose everything they own. Simply because they were too cheap, lazy, to do a monthly fire check by pressing the *Test* button. Never mind changing out or measuring the batteries based on the change of DST. Its quite sad to know it could have been avoided . . .

That's correct - I use this hybrid method in my home right now and works just perfectly. For me the advantages of the *One Link* system is it allowed me to have battery only units in areas I wanted to monitor and not have to worry about running wires. It also enabled me to have a measure of fail over in case of a surge event that could take out the 120 VAC smoke alarms. Lastly, because they are all interconnected via the *One Link* system they extend the fire protection grid in my home which is directly linked to the security alarm panel which then relays the same information to the Central Station (CS). Having the Insteon Smoke Bridge is just the icing on the cake as it allows me to create emergency lighting scenes to ensure a well lit path for everyone in the home. Speaking for myself only the SB was one of the best hardware releases from Smartlabs.

What was the reason in not purchasing the hardwired 120 VAC *One Link* units from the on set? http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Hardwired-Interconnectable-OneLink-Backup-2PK/dp/B00UMO6HHE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1462816059&sr=8-16&keywords=first+alert+onelink

Purchase this and install it - problem solved: http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

Page 13 of the full users manual: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2334-2xx.pdf

First thing is to be using the most current ISY firmware release ensuring that both UI / Firmware match when you select Help -> About. Next, you should be aware the system will maintain a separation of the back lighting from on vs off. Also keep in mind sometimes changing the back lighting manually offers the best results because using the Admin Console sometimes offers a completely different user experience. Lastly, sometimes the device needs to be hard reset and restored to let the adjustment take hold. You could certainly do an air gap and see if that allows you to update the back lighting. If that fails to make any changes do a hard reset, restore, and try again. I've had to make changes manually to some older units because for what ever reason the ISY never made the correct changes through the UI.

Please keep in mind if you create a dedicated Gmail account for the 994 Series Controller. Using Googles Gmail may offer you many possibilities for sms / text. Don't fixate on using your cellular provider for sending alert messages . . .