Teken

I wanted to know if others are experiencing the same volume issue I see here? If the volume is set to 2 its pretty quiet but if you ask her to adjust it to 3 the volume just shoots up. Going to 3, 4, 5 the volume appears to be a steady incremental change in dB level. One would have guessed with all the digital electronics the volume would be smoother. The volume ring works perfectly fine and since its late I haven't had the chance to confirm if the ring has any impact to the disparity of the volume from 2-3. I gather not because the ring volume has been adjusted many times in the past to obtain the correct volume.

I submitted feed back via their smart App. I echoed (see what I did there ) the very same that it should be an option. Some like me like the OK vs others may wish to have the ding - dong.

This excellent program was crafted and offered to the forum members by our resident Belias. This program can be adapted to any battery operated device which has a heart beat function: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11566-leak-sensors-a-suggested-complete-program-package/?hl=%2Bleak+%2Bsensor+%2Bprogram

Hello Leon, Understood about wall warts and aesthetics because I would be hard pressed to hang a huge white block up on the wall. No matter the use of wire mold to hide the wire trail. I was just thinking if it was somewhere discreet where it really didn't matter. But then again I really couldn't see myself hanging some kind of random white block in my home even if I couldn't see it! Ha . . .

Hello Leon, May I ask can't you just place the repeater closer to the ISY? Also have you considered using a extension cord to raise the height of the repeater? Thank you so very much for the thorough follow up.

I just wanted to add some clarity to this in case some of the basic's were missed. 1. Do you have a solid Insteon network in that home which has proven RF signaling near by the sensor(s)? 2. Do you monitor the *Heat Beat* interval using Belias check program? 3. Both of the above are mandatory to ensure the expected results for the remote write device update to happen.

Please do follow up with the group regardless of success / failure.

For the benefit of others here is an example of the *Write Device Update* with the wait duration in place. As noted above not all battery operated devices require the wait duration (0-3 seconds) so test and validate what operates in your own environment. Note also you should monitor both On-Off Heart Beat functions as some devices like the Leak Sensor send a (Off) heart beat for what ever stupid reason. New Program - [iD 02D2][Parent 02D1] If Status 'LS - Media Room-Dry / LS - Media Room-Heartbeat' is On Or Status 'LS - Media Room-Dry / LS - Media Room-Heartbeat' is Off Then Wait 1 second Set 'LS - Media Room-Dry' Write Device Updates Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

As I indicated above create a program to monitor the *Heart Beat* 24 hour check in. Once its seen you can have the write update initialized keeping in mind you will need to play with the (wait) duration. As some hardware / firmware revisions of battery operated devices either required no wait to (up to) 3 seconds.

Your controller is NOT a pro and hence why the battery delay write is not present. Since the grayed out option is still present its more than likely a failed write still pending.

A screen capture of your Admin Console would offer more insight along with the Help -> About. Please remove the UUID & IP Address from the *About* prior to loading the image to the forums though.

Hello ScottAvery, Since the introduction of 4.XX firmware the remote write has been made available which was present in Smartlabs House Linc (HL2) software for the Insteon Motion Sensor (MS). The MS in general terms works by the sensed motion and forcing the device to stay awake. When that window is open any pending writes will be pushed to the device. Devices which have the *Heart Beat* function can also be used in a similar fashion. The battery operated remotes need you to press the set button as there is no motion sensor or heart beat.

You can create a program to monitor the heart beat interval. Once that heart beat is seen the (THEN) clause can be selected to do a remote write to the device. Keeping in mind this has no relations to (IF) you disabled the battery write option. Meaning if you selected the 1011 icon at the top you need to disable it so the system *will* be able to complete the task.

Means battery device is set to write delay.

I don't own any Z-Wave but a quick glance in the forums indicate a few members are able to monitor energy readings and also include them in programs using the various Z-Wave plugin modules. Obviously if you don't have the hardware you will need to upgrade the controller so you can take advantage of the various brands that support energy monitoring. As I don't suspect Smartlabs is interested in this area any longer given they haven't updated any of these devices or introduced further hardware that supports energy monitoring. [emoji35] Quite sad really, considering they could have easily lead the market but instead squandered that role to others. [emoji58][emoji37] UDI has no intentions to spend any resources on either product. As Michel had indicated in another thread that supposedly both products are end of life. [emoji17] ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

This device has been abandoned for quite sometime by Smartlabs and third party vendors. You can set up a program in the controller to update the Watts & KWH. As you noted there isn't a method to reset any of the values in the controller via programs. You will also notice there isn't a easy method to assign a variable to the iMeter in hopes of doing something with the data. As you also noted information from the Energy Display also can not be polled even though its available specifically the temperature even though the E-DOCS clearly state the data is available. At this time your only recourse (IF) you wish to continue to use cheap plugin power meters is to use the various Z-Wave devices that support energy monitoring. If this energy monitoring / energy management is more than a casual fad than you need to invest in a Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM).

Random (unsubstantiated) talk in various forums indicates Smartlabs i3CS is supposed to offer more features. Whether or not they even consider increasing the prefix has already been seen by some newer devices. I think you may be more familiar with this than I in this regard as many new devices generate new values when a level 3 error log is invoked. Features already seen in the wild are send clean up messages, smart hops, blink on error, and the ability to turn RF / Power Line on-off. They have also increased their RF output on at least four products now shipping: HUB II 250 feet, HUB Pro 250 feet, Dual Outlet 250 feet, Range Extender 200 feet from the standard line of sight 150 feet. The three items I believe they need to focus upon is better security whether it comes in the form of encryption. Better error correction, and moving the antenna for all hardwired devices to the front of the device. If we assume they continue to increase the power output while staying with in the FCC guidelines it will give Z-Wave a shot to the body. Besides the most obvious con's about Insteon is zero support from third party hardware makers. No 3rd party lock support that offers real time feed back of lock / unlock. Zero support and feed back to the community and other vendors offering Insteon as a product line . . . All of these items supersede a what (IF) scenario of getting a Insteon device having the same MAC address. You have a higher likely hood of getting struck by a drunk driver than receiving a duplicate hardware.

Glad it all worked out and the swap went smoothly. For the benefit of others can you offer a little more insight to the hardware revision, production date on the white sticker on the bad unit. If you could also indicate what the ISY firmware was in the Admin Console and offer insight as to what exactly was wrong with the unit on hand being *flaky*?

I've thought about this issue way back in the day when I thought Insteon would take over the entire Home Automation (HA) space. That was back in 2007 - 2009 period when HA was still very much a hobby. Now, given the massive adoption of Z-Wave / ZigBee, BLE, WiFi, the odds of the 16 million codes being used up is less of a concern. As you noted (IF) that was to be an issue a return of the product would be the only solution moving forward. But its safe to say if you ever received a duplicate MAC address for a Insteon device you better consider buying a lottery ticket!

Also, one thing that needs to be called out in case it wasn't made clear anywhere in the forums. Do not name the new device the same (literal) name! Doing so will cause the controller to *attempt* to swap the two and at some point it will get confused and than declare a fault. You don't want to end up there because it will screw up any programs, scenes, links, that were there before. You can certainly call it dog2 for example if dog was the existing switch . . . Once the swap has been completed you can rename it back to the old name say dog.

Add in the new switch and name it what ever then go to the (old) existing switch and right mouse click and select replace with. Follow the prompts that show up and the ISY will reboot. The new switch will *assume* the name and all the attributes of the old . . .

On a quick tangent was solar not an option for those battery powered shades? [emoji53]

Harold, Please take one of the spare KPL's and wire it to a extension cord you can sacrifice and plug it into the same outlet as the PLM. This will tell you more than anything at this point. ========================= To bestow knowledge is power - But only if it promotes positive results in others. The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I believe its best to update the firmware to 4.3.26 on the remote system and just carry on. Keeping in mind you're using Admin Console on the Mac which is also using 4.3.26 which kinda makes sense as to why the Help -> About says: UI 4.3.26 Clear as mud?

Post up a screen capture of both systems blocking out the UUID of course for privacy reasons.