Teken

Hello Jack, This may be a very simple issue please login to your Google account and check for all approved devices. If you know the device is the ISY-994 Series Controller obviously say yes its approved or take it out of the banned / denied list. Can you offer us a screen capture of your mail settings here? You can block out the actual email address so you're not going to get spammed by some random person which is not likely on this forum. Also, in the past I used in the FROM field the following name which shouldn't make a difference. But wanted to offer this insight in case you wanted to use this same method once you get your mail going. Mine was -> 994 Series Controller:whatever@gmail.com Doing the above allowed to know mail was coming from the 994 Series Controller and not from another appliance in the network.

Hello Jack, I would encourage you to sign up to Google, Microsoft, Yahoo, who ever for a dedicate email address for the 994 Series Controller. Doing so will ensure mail is sent and received which also removes the reliance on the UDI mail service. Which has been known to be down or have random send issues . . . Many of us use Gmail for the SMTP mail server give that a try and report back success / failure as this will help identify if you really do have a firewall issue. It will take you about five minutes to create a new mail account assuming the name you select isn't used! Ha . . . NOTE: It should be pointed out in the (FROM) field in the 994 this field must have the gmail account. Otherwise you will notice no mail being sent and there will be absolutely no sign it just dropped off.

Paul, Being proactive in my mind in this area is simply good practice. Given what this devices primary function is and that is life and safety. I don't lose any sleep spending a few extra dollars on high output lithium cells which offer much longer service life. I've resisted installing rechargeable AA cells forever in these units and just chalk it up as cost of doing business.

Now the real question is will you see a low battery warning from a smoke detector NOT linked as a primary device to the SB? Again, this is what I have seen and goes against what others are saying. [emoji53] ========================= To bestow knowledge is power - But only if it promotes positive results in others. The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello Paul, Not sure why I see a different behavior then what you stated above? I understood what you stated above as being correct but during the course of many years. I have received many low battery indicators from the Smoke Bridge and none of them were from the primary linked One Link smoke alarm. It should be noted my primary unit is integrated to a hard wired one link detector(s). All of the remaining 12 units are the battery only smoke / co units. I am curious what type of sensors you have and how its linked and perhaps this might explain the difference?

LOL you guys . . .

Yup I believe Paul is on the ball try text instead and it will align perfectly.

There really isn't much difference in terms of how the device operates besides one supplies power from the PLM to the ISY. Where as the 2413S PLM does not power the ISY and requires a external power supply. You have several choices either try to replace the capacitors in the 2412S PLM assuming its not fried. Or replace it with a 2413S PLM from Smarthome in case you're not aware none of these PLM's have a service life longer than five years. Most die with in the 2-3 usage interval which is well known to tens of thousands of people around the world. Since you purchased this device used its not really a shock its failed.

Hello Ed, Can you provide a screen capture of the custom e-mail / sms in the Admin Console so we can see the current formatting?

Hello Ed, All you need to do is type in the phrase and then select enter. The same way you just did it on this forum post obviously you need to ensure the blinking bar is where you expect it to be when you select enter. Clear as mud?

Thanks for letting us know the final outcome and glad it was covered by the 2 year warranty.

That really comes down to personal choice if using KPL Relay vs KPL Dimmer. You can also use a standard Switch Linc Relay / Dimmer if you believe its easier to do the whole single / fast on tap. From a practical stand point the use of a KPL Switch only makes sense because it requires no training to the lay person. This assumes you spent the extra money on the custom fan linc keys which I highly recommend. As it offers visual aid in selecting the fan speed etc plus it just looks professional. Any other method including using stickers or clear buttons looks ghetto . . .

That's great to hear and thanks for closing out the thread with the update.

I don't believe the 994 Series Controller is dead try a restore of the ISY from a good image back up.

No worries let us know how you make out.

Jon left a very nice reply here: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/18128-recoverreplace-console-userpassword/

Hello Jon, That is really great to hear this is what service after the sale is all about. As I am sure you know lots of time people will just push the whole *Stupid* so far about not having a receipt etc. Good to know someone on the other side was using some common sense. Please do follow up with the forum members as to what comes and if anything is amiss.

Yes, seeing the same thing with duplicates in the Alexa application. Specifically I see lots of (off line) device and some where below is the same devices black and active? Between the stupid application always crashing and starting back up not sure. Then, again not sure what the hell is going on with their TuneIn / iHeart radio either. Plays fine for about 4-8 minutes than cuts off . . .

This seems to work quite well for other members here: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/8818-cao-sensors-support/?hl=%2Bcao+%2Bsensor&do=findComment&comment=114669 If you understand and accept the limitations of the above solution it might give you a nice alternative.

That's good to hear as HD overall has been very good about warranty returns. Make sure you have a receipt because that's always going to be a real PITA if you don't! [emoji37] ========================= In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the silence of our friends.

Jon, Are you going to start the warranty process?

I fear some of this is driven by the consumer where we expect to see low prices for these wares. I am a little surprised Cree as a company would allow such poor quality but than again this is typical in most companies.

That doesn't explain why it doesn't happen all the time . . . It also doesn't explain how it can happen while no one is around or asleep in bed. Keeping in mind there are people who also have no MS in the mix and this also happens. If improper programming is one of the main drivers in this issue. Again, if I was such a crappy programmer one would expect this issue to appear every day, every hour, no? So no . . . To date I have never read of one single person remove the controller and report back what the outcome was, none. I do see lots of band aids and guessing which doesn't lead to a final solution to this problem. One day we are going to read about some random guy in the United States of America who says his house was emptied because the largest door to their home (garage door) was open due to the ALL ON issue. As we continue to read the news article about what happen its followed by him starting the litigation process to make him whole. I am at a complete loss why more effort isn't being applied to this issue from all parties. I challenge anyone who is impacted by this issue today to remove the controller. If this problem never happens again well you know where to focus your time and resources. If on the other hand the issue is still present with out a controller then its safe to say Smartlabs better get their aszz in gear and identify root cause. I can safely state the latter won't be seen . . .

Hello EricK, For the benefit of the forum members can you offer more insight to the new (replacement) PLM with the hardware production and revision number. If you could also please indicate the ISY firmware listed by the controller that would be great. What specifically was seen in this new PLM that failed? Lastly, I don't for see removing the MS as being the final solution in all of this ALL ON / ALL OFF. I realize you're trying everything you possibly can to avoid such an issue and understand. You are probably quite aware of my views about the whole thing and for the sake of repeating myself. Its quite impossible a person can walk around the home 24.7.365 for years with nothing changed. Then all of the sudden these events are seen en-mass never mind when not a soul is around. Keeping in mind some people are saying a sensor that was poorly included into a program has caused it, really? So all the people who were asleep, away from the home had a ghost trip a MS and the program(s) caused this? Unlikely . . . Then we have wait times being added into programs which are supposed to help negate this issue? Really??? Again, a home that has been operating exactly the same for days, months, years all of the sudden out of the clear blue sky requires wait times to be added into the program(s). Sorry, I can't for the life of me follow this logic . . . Lastly, there are probably 100K homes all across the world that have Insteon in place and 99% of these events have never been seen, why? The hard question people really need to ask is how can a PLM that has no command table to initiate such an event still happen? I've stated this 99999999999999999999999 times more verbose diagnostic logging needs to be made available in the ISY Series Controller. People are trying to tell me and tens of millions of people the controller has no awareness of an entire home turning on / off? Impossible . . . We all know the basics - The PLM stores all the links from all the hardware in the home. These same links are known to the controller. The ISY is physically connected to the PLM and has complete command and control of the Insteon network. As I stated many times (IF) people really want to know where the problem is - remove the controller and you will see. End of story . . .

All of the stations I listened to were very clear but had no impact on the station just going poof! Been trying various stations, channels, music styles, makes no difference. Using Pandora selecting any channel is rock solid and plays forever until I tell Alexa to stop. Not sure why these two other music services are so crappy?!?!