Teken

Did you try both methods I indicated above? Keeping in mind the device should be brought right next to the PLM.

This is for the v1.9 open close sensor: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2843-222-en.pdf

Is the device less than two years old since you purchased it from Smarthome? If so you're eligible to send it back and receive a replacement unit as its covered under the 2 year warranty period. Go to the Smarthome site and look up your last few purchases and see if you make the 2 year warranty period. For your personal edification that unit was produced in the first week of 2014 and has a hardware revision of 1.9

These are the items I would first review and consider before throwing out the old unit in no specific order. 1. Install and use the latest 994 Series Controller firmware which is 4.4.2 while following ALL the required steps in the update link and ensure you clear the Java Cache while checking off all three box's. Next down load the Admin Console of your choice for the 4.4.2 firmware. Followed by selecting the Help -> About both the UI & Firmware should match and indicate 4.4.2. If it doesn't you need to follow the update and the steps I indicated above. Failure to do this will result in very strange one off issues to be seen . . . 2. Hard reset the device for the model year of Open-Close Sensor. Please indicate the hardware production date and revision on the white sticker for the forum members and once you're able to add it back what the ISY indicates as the firmware. 3. Once the device is proven to be hard reset bring the device to the 2413S PLM. Select two whirling colored arrows in the Admin Console and follow the steps outlined by the pop up message. If that fails to add the device try the other *New Insteon Device* and confirm you're not mistaken a 8 vs B, O vs 0, D vs O etc. If all of the above fails to let you add back the device perhaps its bad which would be a incredible to see. Then you can ship the broken device to me to play with and I will pay for shipping! Ha . . .

Currently I can't take advantage of any of these features and updates with this service. But have to extend my thanks to you and the entire UDI team in pushing so quickly with these new enhancements to the portal service. Well done and bravo!

Yeah a little disappointing to say the least in that its so hard to find high output LED bulbs that either don't make any hum, buzzing, or flicker. The only thing worse is if it impacts the Insteon network along with that odd stepped dimming look. It took me about a week to purchase ten different brands and models until I found the ones that just worked perfectly for me. I was pretty surprised to see many others who purchased HD Cree bulbs seeing negative results and chalked that up to improper use or bad stock. Having seen three identical sites using the same three models of Cree bulbs ranging from 60, 75, 100 watts and all of them showing the same issue about 30-60 days out was a little depressing. My view is the race to the bottom in terms of price is impacting the over all quality in the market place. Sadly, I can't explain how a $28.XX bulb would be considered cheap for one single bulb and not have some kind of quality in it?!?! I could probably accept it if the bulb was like $5.XX and chalk it up to being just a cheap aszz. But in this case I've found the current shipping Cree bulbs simply don't offer any long term use and reliability that works with Insteon. Thanks for the quick review and feed back I was hoping you would find a few Cree bulbs that worked. Can you indicate the production date of those 100 watt units? Lastly, don't forget to offer a review on the HD website as its important to share that information to the next potential buyer. I normally don't take much stalk in reviews depending upon the sales channel. But when you see dozens of *current* reviews all saying the same thing from across North America. You have to take that feed back with some consideration . . .

I believe that was indicated earlier on from another forum member. As I understood it this was done because the current method would not invoke and update the application correctly. Keeping in mind the relay literally opens / closes and what you see is just a visual indicator which has no baring on the real status or operations of the relay. Meaning, once you press open the relay will activate and go back to its resting state. I know it bothers people to see the relay in the (ON) position when they know its actually (OFF). I don't see this behavior at all but can understand why someone would want to see the visual track with the real world condition of the relay. My only concern is that the (Sensor) indicates its true state which it should always be whether it be Open-Close. As an aside many of us have installed a Open-Close (Trigger Linc) sensor on the door as a fail over confirmation. I did this more than five years ago to test out some ideas and back up systems. Using the two in concert with one another does indeed offer more security and door position state.

It will be great once the 994 Series Controller supports all Insteon feature options. Thus far several years have pasted and no movement has been seen in this area which impacts several current shipping products. In no specific order these are the items still pending software support to access features / options: Lamp Linc, Open Close, iMeter Solo, Energy Display, Switch Linc Timer. I have many of the older Switch Linc Timers and to date the options show up but the system will not allow the changes to be made and saved. This has been going on for the last six years since owning these switches brand new and have yet to see any work done in this area. At the current pace of development most of these devices will be out of production and there still won't be a fix! I could understand if the API documentation was not known or made available like it has been for the most recent product which is the Alert Module. But in the above examples the documentation (IS) available and these features are still not incorporated. Why?

Did you follow the above and wiggle the wires while the unit was under power? Did you pull on the cables to ensure they were all secure and tight in the plug jack? If so great and you can move on to the next steps. If not, that would be a next step to validate the install is sound and true.

Seems to me its a hit or miss with some brands or models of LED bulbs. If we simply ignore the HA aspect for a moment lots of family and friends have indicated many of the LED bulbs have not lasted the stated run time. Keeping in mind some of these failures I suspect are due to not following basic installation guidelines. Some indicate indoor use only and people are clearly using them outdoors. While others indicate they can not be installed into any enclosed case yet people do so. Then, you have people who place none dimmable LED bulbs on a dimmer thinking (ALL) of these LED bulbs dim?!?! Just these three basics have probably killed more LED bulbs I gather than poor quality & design. Now having said this the three sites I mentioned above all used the proper bulbs for the areas of use. Yet they did not fail in a normal way one would expect and that is no obvious noise, visual flicker etc. But saturated the power line with noise which essentially killed half the house in two installs. Just some points to consider here and keep in mind millions of people have had great success with the Cree brand. Use your own experience to guide you and perhaps things just might work out. Or not . . . Ha!

That is the same bulb in the multi-pack which has the same poor customer reviews. I don't know if this is a bad trend with respect to Cree LED products or simply poor QA and component selections. The three sites that had communication issues all used Cree LED bulbs from HD. All of them were current stock with a manufacture date code of 2015. Speaking for myself only these aren't the bulbs I would be investing hard earned money for a Insteon enabled network. My SOP for a very long time has been to place any new electronic device on a ramped style burn in process. With LED bulbs its easy just to leave them running for 72 hours to see what happens. If nothing obvious happens and the Insteon network is still reliable I take a gamble and run all of the bulbs on a dedicated circuit. I do this before the seven day return policy kicks in for various retail stores. Even though 168 hours seems very short when compared to the manufactures unicorn 25,000 hours. My personal experience is most cheap products fail with in this period or show signs of defect. After seven days it really comes down to the most common mile marker and that is 30-90 days which seems to be what I saw at the other three sites. As a data point the average run time for all three sites was 6-8 hours. This in my mind is *A Typical* for a regular household but is outside of the 3 hour testing reference Cree and other companies use. One thing I've found to be really shocking in the lighting industry is that price doesn't always reflect build quality or solid design implementation. At $20.XX plus for a bulb one would have guessed you were getting a first rate product. I can state with 100% certainty that (IF) the POCO had not subsidized these sort of bulbs at 50-75% discount. None of the three sites would have even considered them for their install. 80 x $20.97 = $1677.60 USD, keeping in mind these same bulbs were $28.XX CDN plus here in our local market place. So that is $2240.XX before any tax's for light bulbs. Not sure anyone can say the three sites were going cheap when they bought these Cree bulbs . . .

All three are still being made and being sold in retail locations where as others were purchased on line. The primary LSG are A19 definity DFN 19 WW 120 85 CRI, 8 Watt, 425 Lumens, 3000K. I have similar ones which are 60/75 watt equivalent. The primary Sylvania are G25 Ultra LED 85 CRI, 7 Watt, 450 Lumens, 2700K. I have similar ones which are 75/100 watt equivalent. The primary Luminus are PAR20 LED Elite 90 CRI, 7 Watt, 500 Lumens, 3000K. Again, I have 60/100 watt equivalent bulbs in use too.

I would highly suggest you read the reviews for the Cree lights you referenced above. As there are many recent (2015) reviews indicating these bulbs have a short service life. On a related note I had three different sites that all had communication issues which took forever to narrow down and identify. One site had problems about 30 days after the commissioning of the Insteon network. Two other sites had issues about 90 plus days later and in each case it was found to be the HD Cree bulbs. Our POCO had a huge LED rebate (at the till discount) going on in the fall which all of the major vendors participated from Costco, Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart etc. All three sites purchased the same HD Cree bulbs in various wattages. The problem I saw was none of them made any hum, buzzing, flicker, pulsing at all. Meaning there was no way to determine if the bulb was the issue simply by looking / listening. I literally had to unscrew 80 plus bulbs to find out which one was causing the issues . . . Scaling a 25 foot ladder up & down dozens of times like a used toilet seat wasn't the best memories I'll ever have. All I can tell you is the race to the bottom in terms of pricing vs quality is close. All I know is the LSG, Sylvania, and Luminus LED bulbs I installed have been running perfectly fine for 5-7 years straight with out any issues.

Stan, Good to hear, now on to the next project!

-170001 are informational messages. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Errors_And_Error_Messages

Here is a over view of how some of the past units behaved: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14895-insteon-leak-sensor-2852-222-review/?hl=%20leak%20%20sensor

In your photo I see three capacitors and would simply replace all three and see what happens. Verify that the resistor value is with in the percentage of accepted value too. Lastly, if all of the above has been changed out and in spec. But you find the device still not fully operational it could be one of several small IC's on the board. If that is the case you're a little SOL . . . Lastly, you will notice a small round and thin silver cylinder laying flat. If you notice its internal guts have exploded this needs to be replaced of course. It should be noted this specific part has been Achilles Heel for the first and second generation Lamp Lincs. Good luck and keep us all posted about the final outcome.

Hello Stan, In case this valuable information was not made known to you. Please consider taking the time to craft the programs offered by the author Belias: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11566-leak-sensors-a-suggested-complete-program-package/?hl=%2Bleak+%2Bsensor

You just didn't say that?!?!? [emoji53][emoji38][emoji2] [emoji87][emoji86][emoji85]

As quoted . . .

I am like Oberkc where I like to keep things simple and (IF) only that simple method can't be accomplished than I move forward with program intervention. My suggestion is set the MS to night only mode and ensure the light sensitivity is set correctly and go from there.

You need to change the (IF) to *Control* vs Status. To add your program to the forum post simply right mouse click on the program and select copy to clip board. Then come back and select paste to the forum post.

No, this only applies to the Mobilinc Portal has nothing to do with the remote control App.

I believe you need to purchase the $49.XX module for the UDI Portal which the fee covers for a 2 year subscription.

I can't honestly say this problem has ever been seen by me using Mobilinc? All I do is press the button once to open and once to close. I see no value in the query of the relay since its a momentary state unlike the sensor. There must be something basic I am missing here that people are inferring to?