Teken

Glad everything worked out in the end my friend. Please do share the same information to others should the topic ever arise.

I would like to add UDI has enabled the ISY to send updates to most battery operated devices should they activate either by pressing the set button or sensing movement in the case of the MS. This feature does not work on all model years / firmware so be aware of this. Also, each device may require a specified wait period from 0-3 seconds before this process succeeds. HL2 had this remote wake and update forever and worked great for the MS. If you have lots of them in really high mounted positions give it a try, as trying is free! You will find this feature in the programs under the (THEN) -> MS of choice -> Write Device Update.

Read above again . . . If you don't understand the answers and the next steps that are outlined in red you need to move on.

Hello Harold, Apologies if I possibly led you astray . . . When I spoke about the metal JBOX in simple terms it has to do with switches, outlets, that are dual band. Any dual band device which is placed inside of a metal box will pretty much negate the RF signal from the device as the antenna is located in the rear of the housing. Any device that is simply plugged in to an outlet like a 2413S PLM, On-Off Relay etc would not be impacted by such as its sitting on the wall free air. First step is to confirm proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test and review all floors, rooms, area, zones. If each room shows blinking green in those specific locations you're good to go in that aspect. Next, it comes down to isolating the noise maker(s) . . . Do not forget to look at all lighting loads from ceiling fans, CFL, LED, Florescent, etc. As I indicated in the first couple pages several sites which we installed a solid Insteon network started to fail. It took a considerable amount of time to determine that one home had 3-4 HD Cree bulbs that simply had something wrong with them. They operated just fine in terms of turning on-off, dimmed great and had a smooth curve, made no noise or flicker. But out of 44 bulbs that were in this clients house these 3-4 bulbs simply had problems and it could only be seen by removing them from the light rows. Meaning you can have 6 bulbs all in a circuit and literally it takes just one to cause you endless headaches.

Really? Then ignore what I said and carry on . . . Ha!

Sure, but the OP says he doesn't know why his MS doesn't work now? Having a program to do something based on an expected result which never happens isn't going to help anyone. But hey what the hell do I know . . .

I am looking forward to Echo coming to Canada one day and seeing the UDI portal offering more features. So far the team has done an incredible job with the integration with the Amazon Echo. Bravo . . .

OK, I believe there are some basics that need to be called out in case it was over looked. 1. If this device in anyway is defective send it back 2. Have you in fact set the light sensitivity to the MS and what is the current value being used? 3. You can not query a battery operated device ever as its asleep until it activates. 4. Assume all is well and it still doesn't activate to dusk. This means the level isn't low / high enough or the environmental is not being accurately being considered.

There is no doubt in my mind there are things either making noise or sucking the signal in the home. As the OP indicated a passive coupler has been installed on all related panels. As I have stated many times these passive couplers do not repeat, regenerate, or offer RF coupling. This is why its important to have a few plugin dual band devices that can be moved around to assist in the coupling / bridging. Regardless, all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to identify the noise maker / signal sucker within the super structure of the home. Lastly, it would be a mistake in thinking a Insteon device that is installed into a metal JBOX will offer much help since the antenna is in the back of the casing.

The first step is setting the MS to the light level you believe reflects the environment its in. Keeping in mind the unit will ignore brief light exposure to reduce a false dusk / dawn trigger. That is your first step because if its set too high it will never go into dusk mode. If its set too low then if the area has lots of ambient light and never breaks that set threshold you wont ever see it. Afterwards in my mind it makes no sense to monitor if its in dusk / dawn. Why? Because what ever linked device you set for dusk / dawn will of course turn on or off based on the (assumed) setting. So returning the value of a linked device status in my mind would be easier, no?

I'm sorry but I had to read your written text a few times and it didn't make any sense to me. Part of this assumes the MS isn't working, while the other part indicates someone mucked around with the MS. Then, you want to know if the unit is in dusk / dawn mode? Why? If the unit is suspect and not working as expected return it . . . If it is working than who is going to climb up on a ladder and then take out a screw and then **** around with the internals. Keeping in mind the units features are controlled via software and based on what you wrote the wife has no intention of ever going into the Admin Console? So, once again what?!?!?

How do you plan on addressing the fire condition? [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

If the REX system is changed to have a five second power on applied to the exit button which requires no other human intervention you can deploy this. Proper signage along with fail safe power cut during a fire condition must be in place. You still may not have a 3rd party device like the ISY interfaced with the REX system. [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Are you saying all there is a door knob on this exterior door? [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

No, it has nothing to do with being against code unless it's called our in your local. It comes down to your premise and plans to implement it in the current manner. [emoji53] Let's keep this simple does this door have existing locks and knobs? Are they in use and do they operate? Consider how many steps it takes to open a door with a knob lock and a common dead bolt? Now consider a uncertified REX system that is not timed but requires a person to unlock both existing locks. Press and hold a exit button than push / pull a door open? [emoji58] I sure can't see the fire marshal or home inspector having an issue with said exit for egress. Keeping in mind a common person must know how to exit without thought. Would you believe your system meets this basic criteria? Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Sorry doesn't meet code and is still illegal. [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

A residential building can not use a REX system that requires a exit button to be held in place while the door must be pushed ajar. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

How does the system react during a fire condition? [emoji53] Are you aware the ISY is not UL/cUL Security certified? Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

I'm sorry if I over looked what the intent was to drill holes into something that makes no consistent noise like the Alert Module?!? Besides something to do? Did I miss the obvious here my friend.

I don't want to belabor the point but my initial reply way back in page one was to simply call out the facts. My deliver could have been better I suppose but then again sometimes you just need to hear the truth. I don't pretend to be the most PC guy out there but that is the way it is. Ultimately the only thing to know is the OP and his family are safe. He has taken all the steps that are required to avoid future events to happen again. His home is still standing and by Gods grace he can move forward with life and enjoy the small things. Even if its rockin the tennis court at 3:00 AM . . . Ha!

No, its not a troll its the plain facts as they are . . . It may be nice to have the tennis court all lit up during a grid down event. But certainly its not a requirement in any stretch of the imagination. People can spew off what ever horse sh^t they want and say the OP indicates its a need. Sure, that's right up there with breathing, eh? I think not it was a choice so fine but as I stated up top having 8000 watts lit up like a rock concert doesn't help a back up generator nor does it help the pocket book in terms of consumed fuel. People often like to deflect such views by saying you don't know if he *Needs* this. Sure, I don't know if he needs this . . . But its safe to say needing 8000 watts lighting up the neighborhood is like needing open heart surgery with a spoon. I am sure the spoon will open a person up but you know what there is a correct tool and procedure for that. In a grid down event if someone is sitting in their sauna, pool, and rocking the tennis court good on them. But again, it misses the whole point of having a back up generator in place which millions of people do. I always reflect back about how approx 26 million stupid fools spent hard earned money on. Wait for it . . . The Pet Rock . . . Well, 26 million people simply couldn't be wrong right? NOTE: My reply has no reflection on the OP simply replying to the quotes above.

The pop up error message(s) used to be present in older ISY firmware. The latest firmware does not cause this to happen as often. Normally you need to place the MS in linking mode before you press the option button because there is no way to communicate with the device while its asleep. Current firmware seems to negate this not too sure why? [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Harold, Can you let us know the length of the Ethernet cable in use to connect the PLM to ISY? I ask because even if you use CAT6 23 AWG wire serial communications have limits in terms of cable length. Having said this we have used more than 45 feet without issue. [emoji38] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

First you hard reset is incorrect . . . Next you linking method is incorrect based on what you wrote above. Lastly, what have you done to confirm your Insteon network is properly coupled / bridged? In closing have you identified all the noise makers / signal suckers in your home and how did you do so?

Hello Harold, I've never tried to move three switches at once into a scene or folder before. So can't offer much insight to if that would cause an issue but know from past experience its always best to do one change at a time. If this were me I would delete the device from the controller and hard reset it. Then, add it back and then try to create the scenes / programs and see. With respect to the breaker method this is intended for a quick global turn off. Ideally everything in the home should be unplugged temporarily just to help isolate the root cause of any noise makers / signal suckers. The reason I offer the breaker method is sometimes their are specific cases where not all items can be unplugged. Say for example a huge fridge, display case etc. Regardless, this method is tried and true and offers the best chance of isolating the culprit. The time invested now will identify the root cause keeping in mind not to over look your light fixtures. I wrote in another thread where did four other installs and shortly there after we found out with in a period of 30 - 97 days that the HD Cree lights that everyone bought because our POCO had a great subsidy had been causing all the comm issues these 4 sites had. Typically if a load turns on fine but not off its the load . . . In our case these Cree bulbs were running perfectly fine but as time went on (I guess) the power supply started to show signs of noise and thus causes initially random ability to turn on/off. Later it was a cascading effect where half the house would simply not operate at all or missed activation etc. Also, besides lighting loads don't over look the common cell charger . . . This too was the bain of my existence because it worked perfectly for three years and then on year 3.2 it gave up the ghost not readily apparent to me or others. This is why having filter at the ready can really help isolate those potential noise makers / signal suckers. Keep us all posted and look forward to your success!