Teken

Most over the counter UPS battery systems are indeed modified sine wave power output. They are cheap to make and easy to design when compared to a true sine wave equivalent. Most household electronics operate just fine using modified sine wave invertors. Anything with a motor / compressor will not depending upon what other auxiliary regulated power electronics are in use. NOTE: The following best practices should be observed and followed to gain the best outcome and service life. 1. Size the UPS to the actual load in use vs run time required. 2. Do not over load the UPS past the OEM's stated power handling. 3. Do not extend the power cable of the UPS. 4. Perform (manual) monthly UPS testing regardless of the automated AVR load testing from the unit. 5. Replace any UPS battery in active service after five years even if its never been called to duty. 6. Submit all warranty and extended warranty cards, on line entries to the maker to ensure proper coverage. 7. Do not buy cheap batteries as seen on many on line e-tailers.

I believe many of us have been there and said to our self *RTFM* or *Did you POPO*? Everyday I learn that I know less than I thought I did before. But, this keeps me humble in knowing there is much to learn! Merry X-MAS . . .

Either is fine so long as it works functionally in your environment. I only pose this to you and others as its best practice to isolate specific hardware devices from one another. On the surface all electronic devices should simply just work and operate with out issue. The problem is there is a huge variability in manufacturing, tolerances, and as you noted PSU in use and what they are able to supply in terms of current. Lots of these PSU provide a electrical load that sometimes is very hard to detect until some kind of sensitive electronics is at play. As an example way back in the time machine people who had CRT monitors that had other noisy or improperly regulated PSU plugged into the same UPS would see noise lines on the screen. This could be from flicker, to actual lines scrolling over and over like a refresh rate. Obviously today CRT monitors are long gone but the effects are still present and the most common issue people see are unknown network related *injected* noise. Meaning sometimes you will see dropped packets or WiFi signals issues . . . These EMI / RFI based issues are hard to identify so this is why best practice is to keep communication (high speed data) separate from low speed data hardware etc. Just my $0.000000000000001 on that topic as I have seen this for more than 35 years.

Hello Mark, No worries and appreciate the quick confirmation as I am sure this information will prove valuable to others down the road. One thing to note is that you should consider isolating a few of those devices on a separate power strip.

That is more than fine the specs are as follows: 5-30 volt, center positive minimum of 300 mA.

Hello Mark, Its possible but again the 994 Series Controller has been manufactured to operate in a wide voltage range. Since your line power is *A Typical* of American line voltage. Perhaps its too low and with the mix with the wall wart its not able to provide the required voltage. What does the wall wart say for specifications?

Hrmm, the line voltage you indicated is well within the 994's operating voltage. So I have to ask is the UPS been allowed to fully charge since you installed it? Next, have you tried to unplug all of the devices and just leave the 994 powered by the UPS? Is the result the same? Obviously if you unplug the rest you will need to come back later as your Internet will be down LOL!

Do me a favor plug the 994 into one battery powered outlet and report back if it behaves the same.

This is on the same outlet the 994 was plugged into? I am also assuming this outlet is on the conditioned side and not on the unswitched (no battery back up) master outlet?

Hello Mark, Using a True RMS DMM measure the outlet while plugged into the mains and record what the voltage is. Now, leaving the meter probes in the same outlet unplug the UPS and record what the voltage is on battery back up and report back.

As indicated above it can be done but requires technical know how. I offered that resource link to you and others to show case that its being done in Australia by a vendor. It would not be a stretch to say someone who had the will and finances could accomplish the very same task. Having said all of this it should be noted that the current shipping 2413S PLM has the following hardware / feature enhancements. 1. Upgraded capacitors to stave off the 2 year life span. 2. Removal of the ALL ON / ALL OFF command table in hopes of reducing this occurrence.

If you decide to do so it would be great it you could document the process and the final outcome. I am sure that many others with like minds would appreciate your first hand experiences in this endeavor. Blaze a trial and let us all know . . .

Well, perhaps there is a middle ground that can be found. In this resource link it describes a method to use a HUB II with a 994 Series Controller. I would gather the process could be the same for a HUB Pro which is Apple Home Kit enabled: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17271-hub-ii-isy-echo-integration/ You can certainly try with in the 30 day return policy and if it works please do share the outcome and trials with the membership.

Not unless you have the technical skills to do so. NOTE: Here is an example of a company that has taken a HUB and made it into a PLM interface for the 994 series controller: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17549-2242-522-hub-to-isy-serial-conversion/

Are you speaking about Apple Home Kit? If so UDI has no intention of supporting this protocol.

Bringing this back to the top and wanted to know when UDI will support via software the ability to set the second node. As I received a couple more Open-Close sensors and they too do not have the mechanical jumper to enable two node use. Its been more than six months since this thread was first created.

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Restarting_Your_ISY-99i

Specifically the older 2476 ST units that had a built in timer did not have a proper air gap inside. As an aside this device continues to be improperly supported in the 994 Series Controller firmware. When selecting the options tab it will declare a fault which it never did in previous generation of firmware. Once you close the error message attempting to change any value in the 2476 ST device do not take or can be applied.

Glad it all worked out and sorry for the confusion on the sensor wiring. These were really old pictures taken as a means to trouble shoot and recall what position the cables were in case I needed to redo things etc. As you can tell it comes in handy when helping out others. I know its easy to say and read written text over the Interwebs . . . But, sometimes having some visual aids just makes the job easier for everyone. Merry X-MAS . . .

I am a visual learner so here are some old photo's of my jack shaft install. Please note my system was the older model before the whole My Q ever existed. I wired the I/O Linc directly to the main GDO in parallel and works like a champ. This avoided the whole idea of buying another remote to be sacrificed and soldered on to. Sorry the picture isn't the best as it was taken during a power outage in my area and was running on emergency back up lighting which is 25 feet away. NOTE: In the picture you can see I used the N.O. sensor wire. You will need to decide which method works for you in your own environment. For me it made sense that the light on the I/O Linc would light up once the door was open and off when the door was closed. Comes down to preference and if it makes sense to you to have it the reverse . . .

Hello Kevin, Just to clarify the portal is $49.00 for two years not one. So that's $24.50 per year, which as I understand it UDI struggled on whether to have a subscription fee module. In the big picture this should provide a nice revenue stream for the company. Keeping in mind their intent is to continue development so other third party hardware / cloud services can be integrated with the 994 Series Controller. I too can't stand any kind of subscription services! [emoji35] But unlike other companies around the world this isn't a fad or a nice to have service for UDI. It's a long term roadmap that will hopefully allow tighter integration with other third party devices which are all the rage now. [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Not sure if these are on the list as I quickly reviewed the list above: All, Sump, Fire, Laundry, Generator, Deck, Security, Motion, Hot Water Tank, Clothes, Secure, Enable, Disable, Active, Activate, Deactivate, Solar, PVR, DVR, Rotate, Turn, Restore, Default, Reset.

Just a heads up a dual band 2822-222 I/O linc is in the works from Smartlabs. There is no current ETA of its release or form factor but its safe to say it will probably use the same case as the newer On-Off Module, Range Extender, Lamp Linc, Alert Module, etc. Hopefully it will offer more features and options in the new release besides recycling a new outer case. More than likely it will lose the front convenience outlet unless they actually have the mind set to make the case thicker. If history is any indicator it will have a power draw of <.75 watts, 1000 volt surge rating. It would be really great to see a multi port like the Smartenit device form Smartlabs though.

Did you try the same on a PC? Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

I gather you have one of the first leak sensors like me hence why you have one with a v.00? Can you provide the program here for others to follow so its clear how its structured. My intent is to make this thread as helpful and documented as possible for others to follow later on.