Teken

I have been seeing this same issue with back ups too. It has been suggested (assuming this applies to you) that if you have lots of network resources to suspend them. Once that is done try to create a back up . . . If that doesn't work the next step is to disable any programs that might cause a race / loop condition. Doing both should allow you to complete a back up. If neither resolves the issue you should try to do this on a Windows PC. As its been an issue on Mac / Linux box's for random people in the past. Also, it should be noted several releases of that stupid Java has impacted the controller. Which may also be the cause of some of these issues some of us are seeing now. God, I can't wait for Java to just die and go away . . .

If you haven't rebooted the controller do so and try again . . .

You know that isn't something I had even considered! Would you be so kind and provide the hardware production, rev, and ISY firmware? I ask because the leak sensor has under gone several firmware updates and this may impact a successful write update. As I have many that span several firmware releases now. NOTE: It was also observed that some of the Trigger Lincs required the program to monitor the closed condition instead of the open condition before it would complete a write device. This is why its important to use both (IF) conditions when appropriate for your environment. It was also noted that sometimes these devices had to be activated several times before the entire write process was completed and the Admin Console would show a successful write. Lastly, do not count on the console to portray the successful write process with out closing out the Admin Console and coming back in to confirm success. As many of us continue to see the Admin Console freeze and not show *current* status until the UI is closed and reopen again. Very frustrating to say the least . . .

LOL . . .

Hello Chuck, Also if it was not made clear if you have a pro version of the 994 Series Controller. You can select the battery icon at the top this will turn every battery device with pending 1011 write icons grey. When you're ready to update those battery operated devices you can select them one at a time for completion. Here is another method you may want to try on a few battery operated devices to save some ladder time: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17600-write-device-update-remote-battery-updating/

I wanted to add some data points in hopes this will save others sometime in this endeavor. Its clear to me this feature requires a little bit of trial and error should a positive outcome be sought. It goes with out saying depending upon the hardware revision, firmware, and production date. This feature may not work on all known battery operated devices in the Insteon line up. The following devices on hand were able to remote *Write Device Update* with various wait times and (IF) conditions in place. Trigger Linc: Production: 3211, Rev 1.3, ISY v.28 Required 1 second wait Trigger Linc: Production: 0912, Rev 1.5, ISY v.34 Required 0 second wait Open-Close: Production: 2514 Rev 1.9, ISY v.40 Requires 1 second wait Open-Close: Production: 4114R Rev 1B, ISY v.43 Requires 1 second wait - has no internal pin Motion Sensor: Production: 4309 Rev 2.0, ISY v.00 Requires 2 second wait Motion Sensor: Production: 3910 Rev 2.0, ISY v.34 Will not update via ISY but will from HL2? Motion Sensor: Production: 3914 Rev 2.4, ISY v.41 Required 3 second wait So far these are my observations from doing many trials and validation tests. I have several MS sensors as you see above from various production years and firmware. All of these MS could be remotely updated via House Linc 2 software with out issue. When UDI first released this remote update feature these sensors were enrolled back in the day where the 994 Series Controller did not follow the e-docs completely. Meaning the firmware did not query the hardware device for all parameters and hence why we all saw ISY v.00 for battery operated devices. Regardless of that fact when the remote device write update appeared I had no issues in using this feature, none! This past month I moved one of these ISY v.00 sensors to another place and in doing so decided to hard reset the MS and enroll it knowing the ISY firmware would be displayed. As you see high lighted in red (above) it shows up as v.34 in the system. This MS will not remote update at all now using the current firmware in place. All of the other MS still using the older v.00 remotely update just fine. In another related thread people were complaining that when you selected the *Options* tab for the MS a whole bunch of random errors would appear. I will include them below . . . Now, with the MS that were added later which shows the actual ISY firmware when you select the options tab there is no error and the various options do appear with out issue. From this basic test and validation process its clear to me this feature still requires some development and fine tuning. As its quite impossible that existing MS sensors having the v.00 remotely updated fine prior to deleting from the system. Then when adding back into the system that now indicates what ever firmware like above (v.34) this feature no longer works?!?!?

Larry, Simply plug them into any outlet in the home that shows proper coupling / bridging when the 4 tap beacon test is performed. Any other dual band device can be installed where ever you wish. Best practice is to have a plugin dual band device on each corner of the home on all floors, zones, areas. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Can you share what your settings are via screen capture. Is the Write Device Update 100% consistent when enabled?

Hello GMD99, Sure, here is a image capture where you will find the option. This option is available for all battery operated devices but should be noted anything that that does not have a motion sensor will obviously not wake up until you press the set button. It has also been observed some battery operated devices simply do not accept the remote *write device update* feature. This feature has primarily been used to update the Insteon motion sensor. As stated above it will save a person lots of foot work in high mounted areas.

I wanted to create a tracking poll to see how many people have been using the remote write device update feature in the 994 Series Controller. For those not familiar, Smartlabs introduced this feature in House Linc 2 long ago. When this feature is enabled any pending updates in the system will be pushed to the battery operated device most commonly the motion sensor. Since 4.2.X.X the 994 Series Controller has included this remote update feature in the programs section. As with the HL2 software, it required that the motion sensor be awaken by simply walking past the field of view of the sensor. Once this was done any pending writes would be pushed to the MS. This fantastic feature removed the need for the person to remove the MS, unscrew the back plate, and then push and hold the black set button. For those areas where the MS is mounted high up this is a God send feature! With anything it seems depending upon hardware, firmware, and ISY firmware. There is no hard and fast rule about what amount of (wait) seconds are required to make the write successful. I have crafted a few poll questions in hopes of narrowing down based on a sample size of users what has worked for them in the past. It would be most helpful if you could also state and post up what your program looks like that helps you achieve 100% successful remote write updates to the MS. I pose this question today as I am seeing random results with brand new MS sensors with the exact production date, firmware, and ISY OS. I am trying to narrow down what steps may be required to help me and others in the future. Any insight you have to share please do indicate it below.

Normally, fast blinking indicates the MS is low on battery power, can not communicate either because of noise or a broken link to a device no longer in the network or not powered. The last fast blink is when remote programming is active. This seems to differ depending upon what firmware is in the hardware and ISY.

Answers in line . . . NOTE: Home Automation has come a long way from the X-10 days. In many ways it still has lots of ground to cover and become fully automated and what most people would consider Plug & Play. The problem has and will always be the lack of a common standard in the field. This has been seen in the computer industry for decades and finally most things are standardized. Even though in the PC industry there are standards it doesn't mean it will relay to being something practical. Case in point Apple in their infinite wisdom decided to offer the first laptop ever to use USB Type C. Even though this standard is epic in their own right only a retard would purposely force a user to have one freaking I/O port. How on Gods green earth is someone going to have a measure of fail over if that single port ever fails? Keeping in mind this single port is used to charge the device and also serve as I/O port. Because Apple is all about sucking every penny out of your pocket you will have the privilege of you guessed it. Buy a $40.XX adapter to use a standard USB, Ethernet, Serial, what ever I/O you need! So, as you can see just because there is a standard doesn't mean its going to be fun for the end user / consumer. If said vendor decides to offer a half baked solution and [censored]ize the same in hopes of convincing the iSheep its OK. Keeping in mind Apple single handily was the first, and the rest of the morons followed in offering the first ever cell phone in recorded history that a battery could not be replaced! Followed with the first laptops to do the very same and not allow RAM, Battery, HD to be replaced, ever . . . So where are we with HA these days? My view is you can sit it out and wait for the next 2-5 years for the dust to settle and see where these clowns are headed. Or decide on a controller that will support multi protocol devices. The nod does have to go to companies like Wink / Smarthings in supporting multi protocols. But in the big picture both are toys and and ultimately those who want more transition to a 994 Series Controller or similar like HS, or software solution. With everyone coming out with their next big idea like thread, home kit, alljoyn, yes you guessed it. There will be another round of the *Gong Show* to be seen by the masses. HA has always been a hobby for the tinker's and those who like to figure things out. At this point in time HA is a massive fad that will mostly die and go away and you will see lots of companies doing the same. The biggest and current lame method every Tom, Dick, and Harry is pushing is cloud based services. Only a moron would literally let some unknown company / person have direct control, access, and service to your home via the so called virtual cloud. The Insteon HUB is cloud based and if the cloud is ever sad you will have no method to remotely control, access, add / delete, created scenes as it requires the connection to their cloud hosted services. A 994 Series Controller is not cloud dependent at all but can and does integrate with many cloud based services like IFTT etc.

Using this or similar is perfectly fine: http://www.lowes.com/pd_238102-53911-CSNMG-NG_1z0xc75__?productId=3142197&pl=1 NOTE: As stated regardless of the method used to connect the load the upstream supply must be protected via a GFCI outlet or GFCI breaker . . .

Well in short lots of things have progressed while other areas have not. In no specific order this is my take away for the last 12 months of 2015. - Z-Wave multi channel support is imminently due - UDI has crafted a new cloud based portal which will allow Amazon Echo, IFTT, etc integration. - 5.XX platform has finally been released and is moving forward in many areas for variables, node support etc. - No word on the UDI Global PLM: I gather this is either shelved or still waiting Smartlabs approval? - ZigBee: Currently UDI has no plans of expanding on the different profiles to support HA, Security etc which is a real sad to see. There is no intention to expand on the Energy Module at the current time frame. They believe there is no ROI / demand for this at the moment. - The admin console can now adjust the font size for those using high definition screens. This is their first pass at this and a few bugs have arisen which I am sure will be solved in due time. - It was stated that UI improvements will be moved up the priority ladder for the future. - Smartlabs is currently working on a swath of new hardware devices which 994 firmware already supports. Such as the long awaited dual band I/O linc. The latest Alert Module is now out but support is still pending. The latest Morning Linc has a new body and should be supported now in the 994. - ALL ON / ALL OFF: This issue is still unresolved but it seems this problem has also died down since the summer. There is no one solution that has fixed this problem for those impacted by this issue. Smartlabs has removed all commands that relate to the ALL ON / ALL OFF from all current shipping hardware. The latest 2413S PLM still does not seem to address this issue. - A few ingenious folks have found a way to integrate both a HUB II with a ISY Series Controller. This allows those wanting to control Amazon Echo, Harmony, Apple Watch do so.

To be accurate the 99 Series Controller is End of Life with respect to being developed and offering any new firmware. This means any newer ISY features and new Insteon hardware support will not be available. So long as your existing Insteon network does not require new hardware support the 99 Series Controller is more than capable of operating in this fashion. Since your only goal is to integrate X-10 with the controller none of this applies to you.

Hello Guy, If you did a search in this forum I am sure you found lots of feed back about ensuring this automated task is done with the highest level of safety taken into consideration. Regardless of the *Safety Nancy* speech I would encourage you to validate the following before this program is incorporated and deployed in your home. The life and safety of you, your family, and possessions are literally on the line. ==================== ==================== Safety checks that should be done on a annual basis regardless of automation in place. - Safety Eye: Are both safety eye sensor clean, aligned, and operates as expected to stop and reverse the GDO. - Force Detection: Has the force detection rate and pressure been calibrated to a known limit that meets the OEM Spec. Does the GDO automatically reverse when an object has been impacted? - Counter Balance: With the emergency release cable engaged and the door free hung. Does the door stay in any position the user places it? Can the door be manipulated with one hand with out serious effort? When the door is free hung does the door slam open - closed when placed in this positions? - Torsion Springs: Are all springs wound properly which reflects the load as stated in (Counter Balance). Does any of the springs show signs of cracking, splitting, or actually separated? - Closed / Open Limit: Has the GDO open - closed limit been validated for bottom gasket crush depth? Is the open limit set to the correct distance per the OEM? All of these areas must be checked, tested, and validated on a annual basis to ensure long term performance and reliability. Along with providing safety to all who use and are around the GDO. If you'r not well versed in any of the above reading the full users manual will offer the insight and training that is required to adjust, confirm, and validate. If this is not something you're comfortable in doing please consider hiring this task out to any certified GDO installer. *Safety Nancy* out . . .

You can purchase the module now from within the Admin Console. Select purchase module and it will bring you to the UDI website. Help -> Purchase Modules. The $49.00 is for a full two year subscription which is a pretty good value over all given what it will allow the end user to integrate and connect to.

The air gap is designed to act like you turned off the power at the breaker. It essentially (physically) breaks the contact from line source. If it didn't remove power from the load that means one of several things were at play here. - Air gap was not pulled all the way until it bottomed out. - Air gap contact (arc) is not properly spaced per design. - There is another path of line voltage still present. - The PSU has shorted in the closed position.

Larry, That is probably one of the few Insteon devices I personally don't have. Thus far I haven't needed an actual outdoor module to control anything in the yard. I too am interested in how the RF signal is able to penetrate the metal casing? Since I have never open one up my assumption is they use the case as a radiated antenna. As the antenna could not be incorporated into the whip of the power cord. As that would be against UL / cUL for obvious safety reasons.

Speaking for myself only I truly believe the OP just wanted to vent and also ask some pertinent questions. Its easy for lots of folks including myself to come out blasting and become the *Safety Nancy* and quarter back after the fact. There were lots of good suggestions and solutions offered along the way. As others indicated there were lots of OT (Off Topic) discussions which did and didn't relate. I am guilty of this myself, but wanted to state my only intent was to ensure key things were addressed and understood. In my time as a member here over all I have learned a ton of things and tried to share just as many. It would sadden me to read that anyone felt unwelcome in a forum of knowledge. As in life we all have a talk track, and a method of communication. Some of us are a little more PC while others literally speak from the heart and its extremely hard to discern humor, sarcasm, and ill intent just from words. This is why I always try to use the appropriate emoticon to express my (current) meaning and thought(s). After reading a few replies from other long time members and also reviewing my very own *Initial Reply* I can see why the tone would come across as negative and unhelpful. I personally apologize if the information I presented was less than helpful to you in your mind. But know straight up safety is paramount to me and many others and they only want the best for their fellow HA brothers. I know you have acted upon many if not all concerns in this thread and (ARE) fully aware of what next steps need to be. Again, I hope very much you stay and ask future questions and along the way also relay the same to the next guy. X-MAS is fast approaching so wanted to extend my best wishes to you and your family. And be thankful this situation was caught in time before more serious outcome was seen. Lastly, on another tangent: This is the perfect example of why alarm security monitoring by a 3rd party CS is so important. Those who truly believe self monitoring is OK have no freaking clue how life operates. To the OP good on you in having a 24.7.365 CS guarding over your family and home. I am sure this experience reinforces the value and importance of having such services in place. Now, lets all game on . . .

As others indicated many of us living in the colder regions have had great success with Insteon products controlling outdoor appliances. It goes with out saying using these devices well outside of the operating range the product was designed for. Can't be blamed on the vendor should you see a early failure. The stated operating range is 32'F to 104'F / 0'C to 40'C. This newly released dual band - dual controllable outlet is one of the best upgraded products Smartlabs has come out with yet. Almost all of the spec's on this device surpasses the older one by two times. - 250 RF range line of sight -1000 volt surge protection - <0.4 watts idle consumption It should also be noted this device is only rated to control incandescent loads and not LED's. Regardless, I've had no issues doing so in my X-MAS set up but YMMV here. Last but not least a purpose built outdoor module is made available from Smartlabs even though its not as stealthy but is designed to do so: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2634-222-on-off-outdoor-module-dual-band.html NOTE: Please ensure that the upstream outlet that powers this Insteon outlet is on a GFCI or on a GFCI breaker.

I just wanted to clarify my reply and examples were related to the Insteon Appliance Lincs and not any sort of switches etc. In the past Smartlabs offered these devices in either resume on, or resume off. This behavior seemed to flip flop over the years in various iterations of the hardware. Later someone had a flash of genius moment and said how about we make it remember the devices last known state? That was a epic day for lots of us . . . As noted having the ability for a device to come on, remain off, offers a user different solutions for use cases that are needed. As I indicated I have several of the resume off when power is lost and applied for my clothes washer and other expansive appliances. Lastly, if you're serious about getting rid of some of those switches I am sure I can find a nice home for some of them. Send me a PM and lets see if we can find a good middle ground for the hardware.

Hello Jason, As you indicated LED bulbs are a hit and miss affair with many brands of HA controllers not just Insteon. It should be noted there are not very many Insteon products that indicate official support for LED bulbs. The only one that comes to mind is the ILL (In-Line LInc) which does indicate LED bulb support. Having said this does the flicker seem to track with the Insteon signals going back and forth?

All of the points you made are solid and a reasonable person would have to ask the same very question. On the surface one would think a company like Google who at every turn touts open source standards, availability for all, and integration. Would lead the charge in this endeavor and allow Tom, Dick, Harry to play in the sandbox. Doing so would drive sales because people like you and me know some 3rd party controller like the 994 Series Controller is able to take advantage of the latest and greatest selling TSTAT. I've tried for years to come up with solid reasons why allowing those with existing energy management features denied access? Its a freaking thermostat for God sake's its not the keys to the city . . . But I digress, as its clear the only way at the present is to use some middle ware and hardware solutions which is just a kludge! BTW: This is a great discussion that offers a nice work around: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17070-nest-integration/

There is no method to change one button this is a global value that affects all keys. You can hard reset the device and perform a restore device to see if that solves the issue.