Teken

That is a pretty loaded question considering the company you're asking about. This company is hell bent on becoming SkyNET and having complete command & control of everything in our lives. As an aside if you do a quick search in this forum there was a young lad that indicated a hack to allow control of the Nest TSTAT. I also believe a related thread was indicated in the Vera forum so you should go over there and see what pops out.

The OP's problem seems very similar to what I am seeing this very moment in my home. This problem seems to have started about the same time I upgraded to 4.4.1 Beta firmware. The strange thing is activating the direct node turns the *foyer* light on-off with out issue. Using the scene again has no issue completing this task. Going directly to any linked switch in the home has no problem either. Its when the MS turns the light on it doesn't turn the load off yet (some) of the linked devices turn off. As a next step after doing all the device restores, air gap, hard reset and restore, etc. I replaced the MS with a brand new unit and it (almost) behaves the same way. Everything was rock solid a month ago and nothing new has been introduced besides replacing a few single band devices to dual band switch linc dimmers. As an aside in the 4.4.1 thread I noted that I can not create a new scene that controls a device WTF?

No, its immediate to the vendor . . . You're giving them too much credit for the slow shipping and processing. This has been seen every year for all major sales seasons going back at least five years for me.

You guys are too much . . . As an aside I wanted to clarify the fail safe vs fail secure terminology with respect to security. Specifically in automotive use for starter, ignition, inhibitors using a relay. When a relay is wired with a fail safe configuration should the alarm fail or be compromised the relay is Normally Closed (N.C) this would still allow the vehicle to be started. In a fail secure relay configuration should the alarm system be compromised the relay is Normally Open (N.O) and requires the alarm to be present to close the relay contact to allow the vehicle to start. I just wanted to put that out there because those 12 volt guys would be all over my aszz for not calling it out properly in that use case.

Back in the day I had multi purpose outlets that could be configured for fail safe vs fail secure. When they stopped making them I used the Appliance Linc which upon power loss would default to a off state. I used this for several appliances in my home as a method to protect the appliance against quick on-off conditions seen in the past. Using this method has protected some of my very expensive electronics and appliances like clothes washer.

I absolutely have no words for that statement . . . LMAO *Ladies and gentlemen - we have a 5 minute stand up comedy act c/o Larryllix*

There are several things I will try to address in no specific order. ETL is the testing lab which is the equivlence to UL / cUL in a general nature. As their primary function is to help companies (facilitate) to test, meet, and produce items that meet global standards as indicated above and in the EU its called CE. As I stated early on how a product operates doesn't really matter in the general sense. Its when you combine different use cases and scenarios that can, will, and have caused issues. A laymen would assume something would come back in a off state. While others want the reverse in many industries its aptly called and phrased as *Fail Safe vs Fail Secure* Now, let me qualify that normally these two phrases are used strictly in the form of security and other industries. But the general premise applies here. For example when Smartlabs had the older Appliance Linc default to the off state this is considered *Fail Secure*. This is fine for a toaster, coffee maker etc. Fail Safe would be mean when the device came back up the unit would be powered. This would operate perfectly for a sump, fridge, etc because you want power to be present upon power loss and restored when there. Again, some may find value in one or the other but ultimately the intent lies with the consumer. I have learned the hard way like many others that the responsibility falls upon us alone. All of us can dance around and muse about what should of, could of, would of. The hard lesson learned here is you're most certainly more cognoscente of how things operate and (IF) they meet your use case in your personal environment. As you can probably tell I have seen, lived, and experienced these things on a epic level. So I offer the feed back not simply as a outside observer (JAFO) but from personal experience.

Larry, Not sure I follow what you're saying here? The OP still uses halogen lights there are no LED's in use now outside hence why the massive 8000 watts. As to the power blip, again this thread wouldn't exist if it didn't happen and thus the fire etc. As to the segmented loads my reply was to your inquiry about load shedding which the OP does not have in place. Ha . . .

I have a question for you more of a personal curiosity how many lights and specifically what does each area consume? Pool? Tennis Court, Perimeter Home? Are some lights for example at the tennis court 500 - 1500 watt halogen flood lamps? In a commercial space 8000 watts isn't out of the ordinary but in a residential space. Oh yeah baby . . .

Larry, As I read the OP's initial thread which he will need to clarify. Is that he has several Insteon switches which control various outdoor lighting fixtures. Some for the home, perimeter, and various others like the pool, tennis court. They are obviously on separate switches but when there is a blip in power. These ill conceived devices turn on. Thus causing a massive load to be present when the back up generator is spooling up. Many if not all back up generators offer surge power like when a fridge, sump kicks in. But that is while the generator is fully operating at normal speeds. His problem is that power goes out than when enough time normally (5-10) minutes the back up generator will kick in. The problem is all of these switches are then defaulted to a on state which the generator is not capable of supporting over a long period of time. Start up power is separate and different than surge power, or even load shedding. Load shedding is a active element that smart generators incorporate whether it be removing a load when power exceeds the systems ability, or to bring it back on line when the system determines its safe to do so. Regardless of the above the primary goal and job of the back up generator is to supply power to critical loads such as HVAC, Fridge, Freezer, Sump, common outlets. Many people take the view since the back up generator is capable of supplying gobs of power its OK to power things like the dryer, washer, etc. That's fine and dandy so long as people realize the first two elements of load shedding, surge power, and start up power are tested and validated as meeting those needs. In my travels I have seen lots of so called high dollar generators not even meet the basic surge, start up, load shedding capabilities they the maker claim. The key thing I have learned in life is never take any ones word for anything. Test, validate, and validate some more and in real world use cases. Not when things are all rosy and blue skies as doing so will leave people in a bind when it really matters.

As stated earlier I am happy and relieved to read no one was hurt and this is why home insurance is in place for such accidents. Moving forward I would humbly suggest you either or contract out the outside lights to be segmented out. Regardless of the lighting technology you have in place and back up power it makes no sense in powering the tennis court, pool, etc. Load shedding is an option where the system is smart enough to remove / add loads based on the systems limits. If load shedding can not be incorporated, then again only *critical loads* should be powered during a grid down event. I also agree with you LED lighting still has a way to go given the vast amounts of variability, noise, and long term use. At this point I would move forward and replace those older units with current product offerings which by the way incorporate the following features. - 100 - 277 wider voltage which helps guard against voltage swings / sags. - Higher surge protection against electrical line faults. - Reduced energy consumption when compared to previous iteration models. - Phase coupling confirmation: Same phase - opposite phase via dual colored LED's. - Resume: Based on last known state of on-off. Bottom line the family and over all the home is safe now move forward and make the required changes to enjoy that beautiful home. Game on . . .

Newer Insteon devices will not work on your 26 model as there are no firmware signatures indicating they exist.

Just some observation(s) and feed back with regard to some of the above. Its apparent to me your Kohler back up generator deployment was not well thought out. Its apparent to me money isn't an issue here so it translates to knowledge, expectations, and life style. The generator firstly should have been spec'd to have a load shedding capability which Kohler has several solutions for. Next, assuming the load shedding was not something considered or available at that time. Then the key rules of a back up generator were already broken and that is to provide power only for critical loads. There is absolutely no reason why anyone would need 8000 watts of outside lights to be powered, none. These lights should have been segmented and placed in groups where key lighting would be available should it be required. You certainly did not need all 8000 watts to be lit up. What is this a concert?!?! With respect to the power on after electrical failure no argument about how incredibly stupid that method is. The current iterations of Insteon devices (most) use *Last Known State* which is a great compromise. If its on it will return to that condition upon a electrical event and vice versa. With respect to your daughter dropping her scarf on the table lamp? I'm sorry but that was a user issue and can't be placed on Smartlabs entirely. More people die a year due to careless acts then actual conditions that exist in their own environment. People summarily believe they can gamble with their lives all day long doing stupid things. Just because nothing ever happen before, wrong . . . There is no such thing as luck, bad luck. The simple fact is you called out these issues long ago about the devices being on after a power blip. Your decision to leave them in place is ultimately a personal choice. It doesn't mean that SH should not have done something to assist you in lessening the pain of replacement given its a terrible concept and design. As you well illustrated the consequences can be severe and deadly if not addressed. Bottom line get rid of those devices which present a power on condition. Next, rethink and redeploy the generator to either load shed, or actually follow the intent of the generator and that is to power critical loads only. Following that with isolating a few outside lights for needed and required path lighting. Lastly, change out those bulbs even a few will do several things for you. Even if you did nothing else it will save you money and it will reduce the startup load for that generator. Since you obviously have no idea who I am besides some random guy on the Internet. I would like to qualify that almost every body who has read my rants, views, feed back knows I have absolutely no issue throwing SH / Smartlabs under the bus, none. But in this case besides calling out the stupid method they used in the switches you have. The rest is a user issue that needs to be solved by you. I am sure your daughter has literally learned the hard way to be mindful of where she places her items in the future. Which of course high lights the obvious here the bulb in use was indeed a standard bulb. No LED bulb or even a CFL bulbs would have generated enough heat to cause a fire. Unless it was completely surrounded and engulfed in something. As older CFLs did run warm but no where compared to a standard incandescent bulb. At the end of the day I am happy no one was hurt and obviously no one died. Because it makes no difference what happen the loss of life is something no one ever wants to see or experience. I hope you take the feed back provided in a constructive manner as its easy to get angry and not too.

Reboot the controller and try again and report back.

A third party device would be say a Autelis Bridge, RPi, which sends data to the 994 Series Controller. I ask because sometimes the send rate overwhelms the controller and tasks that are queued stop other processes from being completed. Also if you have lots of programs that are running you can eliminate that as a possible cause and disable the program (root) folder and try again.

Hello Bob, Do you so happen to have lots of 3rd party devices sending variables to the ISY?

I haven't read that you tried what I suggested which was hard reset the switch and wire it to a long extension cord and plug it into the same outlet of the 2413S PLM and try to add it.

Hello ScottAvery, It should be noted that a Type 1 at the meter base or a Type 2 installed at the main service panel will not protect the home against the following line disturbances: Sag, Frequency Drift, Extended line voltage. Type 1 & 2 SPD's will also not protect the home against lower voltage transients that are more common than ones people expect to see from a lightning strike. Also note a SPD will not protect the home when a loose neutral is present either. Purchasing and installing a Type 1, 2, 3 SPD's are however a great investment and measured insurance for the home and the occupants. In all cases regardless of the technology in place the home should be fully insured properly to against loss and damages. This is the only thing that will make you whole during a massive electrical event. Most people are unaware that most transients (surge / sags) are generated from with in the home. These normally come from high current devices coming on such as: Sumps, HVAC, and anything that has a motor / compressor etc. Extended line voltages are conditions that exceed 130 VAC most common electronics are able to sustain and operate with in 100 - 150 VAC but not all. This is why you have seen a drastic relaunch of Insteon devices that support 100 - 277 VAC power as it offers commercial use but the side benefit is that its purpose built to operate in those extreme line voltages. If you took a common (older pre 100 -277) device and ramp'd up the voltage past 150 VAC the unit would burn up. The latest iteration of these devices are supposed to be more robust and capable of handing such wide voltage swings. They have also increased the surge resistance along with reduced the energy consumption on current product offerings. Just some random feed back . . . Ha

Hello Craig, There is no multi login profiles as of yet in the ISY. What you read is what view and resources are available to you when you login as the Admin. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Hello Michel, The conditions for the program are listed in the first post.

Mobotix is not very common in North America but is one of the best security camera makers in the market. Other great companies are Axis, Pelco, Sony. Axis and Pelco are the go too brands for many of us in the Enterprise world. Seeing a camera survive a bomb blast is really something to be in shock and awe. First time I was on site at the Pelco proving grounds and they lit off a small explosive next to their explosive rated camera it was like rolling thunder . . .

I would wire it to a extension plug and bring it to the 2413S PLM and see if you can add it then. Report back success / failure and keep in mind you should do a hard reset to ensure its not locked up.

Things to consider assuming they are present in your home are furnace, air conditioner, dehumidifier, fridge, freezer, sump, geo thermo pump, desuper heater, etc. I would be looking at what appliances and normal cell chargers are present and charging at those time intervals. Also taking into account there have been times where a Insteon device has caused massive traffic on the power line. The most famous is the Venstar Insteon adapter plug . . . Previous generations of KPL's I don't recall which model year but they too had a bad habit of broadcasting data as if it was on a loop?!?! I would like to say it was te 1C versions but its been a long time so don't quote me on that hardware rev.

Hello Mario, Can we start with one problem item like the switch and get that squared away first? If you're having issues with the PLM this would indeed cause related delays in adding any hardware as the ISY is simply a controller that helps add, delete, create scene relationships. If the PLM is dying and losing links etc this will cause untold grief which are not related to the ISY. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Yeah, I am hoping XMAS will bring in the real sales like what was seen last year. I don't know what the actual discount was at that time (2014 XMAS) but the four packs were crazy cheap. Leak sensors, micro switches, motion sensors etc. I scooped up five sets of the 4 packs and had no regrets then because those sort of deals don't come along very often. Given the Canadian dollar is truly in the toilet at this point I may not partake in this years sale. Boooo Booooo . . . .