Teken

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17271-hub-ii-isy-echo-integration/

I prefer Southwire cable to be honest. [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

First thing to note is both firmware and UI must match yours doesn't. Next clear your Java cache and download the correct admin console in the firmware page. Report back what happens from there. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

The HUB II supports Insteon and the three brands I mentioned above. The HUB Pro is Apple Home Kit certified and enabled. It will allow you to *ideally* integrate with any home kit device in the market place. It does not support Echo though. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

If you look under my profile there is a thread I created that details how another forum member was able to integrate the HUB II with the 994 Series Controller. Doing so allowed them to have native Apple Watch, Echo, Harmony support. All the while still having the power and flexibility of the ISY-994 Series Controller.

As I understand it, the over all goal is to develop this hosted service to allow more 3rd party hardware and cloud service integration. It will also allow multi user / multi login for those with more than one unit. It helps integrator's manage multiple sites via a web based interface.

My humble suggestion is to set up your Insteon network so it operates on a basic level. Once that is done you can move forward and become accustomed to how the 994 Series Controller uses If, Then, Else conditions in its state driven logic. Once you get a basic handle of conditional programming you have many directions you can move toward. Do you wish to integrate a TSTAT? If so what are you looking for simple Insteon integration if so buy it from Smartlabs. If you believe you need more control and features then you can purchase any of the Z-Wave products or a networked TSTAT like Venstar. Next, are you looking to interface with more 3rd party devices and services? If yes then the network module is in your future . . . If you want to have even more integration with other fad products like the Amazon Echo / IFTT then you can purchase the portal integration module with reoccurring fee.

Answers in line . . .

KMan, As always I thank you for your time, insight, and guidance. I will need to sit down and review the actual needs vs goals so it can be defined and expectations set. Once that is hammered out to go through the process of testing, validation, and full deployment. Right now I am setting the expectation factor to (low) so there is lots of wiggle room for me and others. I've resisted incorporating any sort of cloud based services into my HA system for obvious reasons. But at this juncture it seems the cloud is the only *easy* method to get what I need at the moment. I would love a more direct route but my current cUL standing limits me to using this sort of solution.

Kman, That's just awesome I knew it wasn't just a dream in my head! [emoji38] Now given the information provided in the link above. It appears I will still need to wait for intermediate certificate support if I want to accomplish some of this locally? The first step is to sign up to IFTT and see how all of this is actually glued together. [emoji53] So briefly am I correct to assume the IFTT service will essentially filter key words in a email header and based on what I have programmed the maker channel to do it will in turn activate a variable of my choosing? [emoji53][emoji4] I want to make sure I fully understand the basic premise and what all the caveats and limitations are. For those wondering and following this thread I will not be using this for time sensitive / mission critical events. This is more for a proof of concept for a couple of projects under development for my home and another site. Thanks Kman! Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Hello K5map, Absolutely, and it has nothing to do with being on 4.3.26 at all just for your own edification. Keep in mind you don't need to use his program at all but use a simple one. The reason I and pretty much everyone uses his excellent program is that it has several checks and balances which are very well thought out and proven to work. Off the top of my head the main driver to use Belias Leak Sensor program is that it checks to see if the program is running if not notify the user. Next, indicate if a sensor has missed the 24 hour heart beat window and continue to monitor and declare a fault until such time as the heart beat is seen etc. Lastly, you can modify the existing program to indicate the open-close sensor has tripped instead of a leak. In my use case I have them wired to a 3rd party localized flood stop units around the home. This essentially allows me to integrate Insteon into my HA system and security alarm panel for a modest cost and *No brainer install / notification* Ha . . . Merry X-MAS!

Hello, The Open-Close sensor still only has the three nodes: Open, Closed, Heart Beat. Please keep in mind it does not offer any method to fine tune any values like was seen in the hidden door sensor. Also, as stated above the current 4.4.1 Beta firmware does not support the ability via software to enable the two node option which is a requirement now since the mechanical jumper has been removed from the hardware device. Lastly, the heart beat function in the open-close sensor in most cases serves a better purpose when compared to the low battery warning in my mind. Don't get me wrong, it would be ideal and better to have both like is in the hidden door sensor. But since that isn't present the heart beat feature does in a general sense offer better insight. Because if you're in range of a dual band device the heart beat will be received and if not it wont. If you also don't receive a heart beat with in the 24 hour period using Belias excellent leak sensor program than its assumed its out of range of a dual band device or the battery is dead. So in essence the heart beat provides RF distance confirmation and battery state.

Hello Paul, Is there a possible way to send all of that in email header? As this will be done internally via a on site SMTP mail server. If some kind of API call can be done which does not require sending credentials that would be even better. Essentially I want to see if a trouble / fault e-mail that is issued by another appliance can be used to initiate something on the 994 Series Controller.

I am not sure if this was my imagination or indeed this is something I read here or else where. But is there a method to send an e-mail to the 994 Series Controller and have it trigger a variable that will in turn send out another e-mail? I know this sounds kind of convoluted and maybe it is. Essentially I would like to know if there is a simple method to send a API call to the controller and then have it react. The use of an e-mail was just a simple example for others to follow.

Yeah I received quite a few of those special offers some of which were really great. They had a BOGO for leak sensor I believe and also a discount price for the Amazon Echo with various Insteon hardware. At the bottom of each sales add was a 20% discount listing off what products were covered under the promo. There was an error I saw on one listing and was only seconds of hitting the submit button until their IT guru's caught the mistake! I could have made out like a freaking bandit as I had 4 of them in my cart!

Most over the counter UPS battery systems are indeed modified sine wave power output. They are cheap to make and easy to design when compared to a true sine wave equivalent. Most household electronics operate just fine using modified sine wave invertors. Anything with a motor / compressor will not depending upon what other auxiliary regulated power electronics are in use. NOTE: The following best practices should be observed and followed to gain the best outcome and service life. 1. Size the UPS to the actual load in use vs run time required. 2. Do not over load the UPS past the OEM's stated power handling. 3. Do not extend the power cable of the UPS. 4. Perform (manual) monthly UPS testing regardless of the automated AVR load testing from the unit. 5. Replace any UPS battery in active service after five years even if its never been called to duty. 6. Submit all warranty and extended warranty cards, on line entries to the maker to ensure proper coverage. 7. Do not buy cheap batteries as seen on many on line e-tailers.

I believe many of us have been there and said to our self *RTFM* or *Did you POPO*? Everyday I learn that I know less than I thought I did before. But, this keeps me humble in knowing there is much to learn! Merry X-MAS . . .

Either is fine so long as it works functionally in your environment. I only pose this to you and others as its best practice to isolate specific hardware devices from one another. On the surface all electronic devices should simply just work and operate with out issue. The problem is there is a huge variability in manufacturing, tolerances, and as you noted PSU in use and what they are able to supply in terms of current. Lots of these PSU provide a electrical load that sometimes is very hard to detect until some kind of sensitive electronics is at play. As an example way back in the time machine people who had CRT monitors that had other noisy or improperly regulated PSU plugged into the same UPS would see noise lines on the screen. This could be from flicker, to actual lines scrolling over and over like a refresh rate. Obviously today CRT monitors are long gone but the effects are still present and the most common issue people see are unknown network related *injected* noise. Meaning sometimes you will see dropped packets or WiFi signals issues . . . These EMI / RFI based issues are hard to identify so this is why best practice is to keep communication (high speed data) separate from low speed data hardware etc. Just my $0.000000000000001 on that topic as I have seen this for more than 35 years.

Hello Mark, No worries and appreciate the quick confirmation as I am sure this information will prove valuable to others down the road. One thing to note is that you should consider isolating a few of those devices on a separate power strip.

That is more than fine the specs are as follows: 5-30 volt, center positive minimum of 300 mA.

Hello Mark, Its possible but again the 994 Series Controller has been manufactured to operate in a wide voltage range. Since your line power is *A Typical* of American line voltage. Perhaps its too low and with the mix with the wall wart its not able to provide the required voltage. What does the wall wart say for specifications?

Hrmm, the line voltage you indicated is well within the 994's operating voltage. So I have to ask is the UPS been allowed to fully charge since you installed it? Next, have you tried to unplug all of the devices and just leave the 994 powered by the UPS? Is the result the same? Obviously if you unplug the rest you will need to come back later as your Internet will be down LOL!

Do me a favor plug the 994 into one battery powered outlet and report back if it behaves the same.

This is on the same outlet the 994 was plugged into? I am also assuming this outlet is on the conditioned side and not on the unswitched (no battery back up) master outlet?

Hello Mark, Using a True RMS DMM measure the outlet while plugged into the mains and record what the voltage is. Now, leaving the meter probes in the same outlet unplug the UPS and record what the voltage is on battery back up and report back.