Teken

There is no reason the power line signal would not reach 100 feet. Which is very modest in terms of wire length. If the lights are truly hardwired to the same electrical leg of the other Insteon devices it comes down to noise makers / signal suckers being a primary culprit here. I have wired a industrial building using Insteon and the wire run exceeded 2000 feet with out issue. So, again I would be looking at what kind of load is present and what kind of filtering may be required to solve this issue. Your first step is to perform the bridging / coupling test and see how the device(s) react to said 4 tap (beacon) test. Next is to see and determine what kind of noise makers are present in that area. Keeping in mind all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to address noise related issues, none.

The device is very simple its just a hole surrounded by a conductive plate. The lever just clamps down from above making a Romex sammich. I gather the plate is ribbed to give it some bite because its extremely hard to yank the wire out with any force a normal person would exert.

Do you have lots of programs tied to that device? Also, is there a reason you intend to switch out an interior device for a outdoor rated one?

If its not on the list when you right click to select a replace with its not.

Figures I write about how this KPL has been consistently going dark for several weeks. Now, it just operates fine with out any user intervention?!?! I still plan on capturing what the ISY believes the LED settings are when it happens. Just wanted to update this thread that nothing super fantastic has happen since my last posting.

Its on the bottom of the package.

Oh yeah after doing 40-50 switches your finger is like hamburger meat! When the wing style wire nuts / marettes came out it was like a electricians wet dream come true! [emoji5]️ With the advent of various Wago style cable terminators it's like the super lotto max was just won! Wago or similar are nice but they are 2-3 times the cost vs standard wire nuts so keep that in mind if this is a large project. For those considering the push in style be sure you practice a few times on a scrap piece of Romex and fully understand what a PITA it will be to remove them should it be required in a confined space! [emoji35] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

You can only have one battery operated device in linking mode at a time. Otherwise you will link the two together or cancel the update process. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Given between the two choices the Wago 221 are preferred ones to use. As I noted in a SH forum these sort of connectors are not always accepted by the inspector as they are not common and lots of these folks are not up to date and old school. Meaning if they tell you they are not approved you must remove them. I've used Wago lever style connectors for many years for many installs where they make sense. The ones I use are depending upon JBOX size not appropriate because having three of them reduces box space. I have 20 boxes of various 2-8 wire connectors as seen here. With respect to wire surface the same ampacity is present due to its clamping design from both sides. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Touche, will check for sure once I am back home. Perhaps this is related to the 3 AM query all not being able to find the *My Lighting* scene. I updated a few times and noticed this program wasn't running anymore. Upon closer inspection the then clause was blank? I never made any changes that program, ever. I also noticed some e-mail alerts using the default system choice no longer presents any values?

I can definitely search but I can assure you there are no programs that do this. I am probably the most boring person with respect to custom use of the KPL. I don't do any funky beeping, flashing, or dim levels. Its just set to one threshold permanently . . .

Hello Xathros, That is a great fix but I would like very much to isolate the root cause because the unit should not go dark with out user intervention / want.

I will confirm what the ISY Series Controller indicates when it happens again. Hopefully it will happen again tonight if not I will report back when it does.

I have a KPL dimmer that just started going dark (LED back lighting) mostly at night? The unit continues to operate when any of the eight buttons are pressed. Selecting any of the eight keys also lights up that specific LED. Yet the remaining keys are completely black and appears to be set to the lowest setting of off. Currently the only method to restore the back lighting is to air gap the device via the set button. My next step is to hard reset the device and then perform a restore device to see if it correct this odd behavior. I am wondering if anyone else has seen this odd issue and if its a sign of a bad KPL about to give up the ghost? For back ground reference this KPL has only been set to a moderate dim level to balance access and sleeping. There are no programs that do any kind of funky beeping, dimming, or otherwise. I've resisted doing the hard reset and restore device because this device is part of a massive scene. I have lots of older Insteon devices which are single band in various iterations so writing to them is very time consuming. My plan moving forward is to perform a restore device first just before bed time so I won't have to sit there and watch! Insight . . .

I do believe you're correct. As stated using the second version of firmware allows a method of fail over if a person has a hybrid Z-Wave / Insteon network in the home. Meaning if the PLM failed some how the ISY Series Controller would still be capable of executing programs, timers, etc for Z-Wave only devices.

Just to add more clarity for those still unsure about the two versions of firmware. If you have hybrid environment where there are Insteon and Z-Wave devices in the home. Using the second firmware will allow the end user to continue to use the ISY Series Controller when a Insteon PLM fails. For those like me who have ZigBee the only thing it offers is the ability to still see and track energy readings from my Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM). If the Insteon PLM is dead it obviously would not allow me to react to those energy readings / loads.

Its almost impossible to have every outlet on the same electrical leg on the service panel. The fact you saw the same green LED while plugged into the PLM circuit indicates opposite phase. Otherwise there is a problem in the method you're trying to accomplish.

I just wanted to add one clarification to what Paul Bates offered here. The Signal Linc is a passive coupler meaning all it does is couple and relay the existing message / signal. It does not repeat or boost the signal like the Range Extender (RE) / Access Point (AP). All dual band devices repeat, and regenerate the Insteon signal to ensure strong communications in the mesh network.

LOL

Even though the process is straight forward please ensure you do a back up of the system and keep it on hand.

Oh . . . Let me take a look at this! Thank You!

If you have a dual band plugin device it will make your life much easier to (bridge / couple) and extend the Insteon RF signal. As a best practice I always ensure every floor has at least one dual band device in all four corners of the home. Anything else is just redundancy and helps the Insteon mesh network. Having one Insteon device in a central location very high up and unobstructed has also been a good solution to covering all four corners of the home.

Just to affirm the toggle linc is not a dual band device so its important that you have some kind of dual band unit with in the MS.

Does a person enter the room in a sweeping motion or directly toward the MS?

Just to be clear the MS is not positioned in a manner where it requires *direct* line of sight. Opposed to the person having to cross and break the PIR beam? I ask because a very common mistake is improper placement of the MS sensor. Unlike true security motion sensors which are calibrated and designed to compensate for a direct moving object opposed to a sweeping object. The Insteon MS is not on the same level of quality and sensitivity. Therefor its important to keep in mind not only the walking path, angle, sensitivity, and installation height. Any of them can cause erratic or inconsistent motion detection. Lastly, MS sensors should never be placed in direct sun light, heating / cooling vents, and areas of environmental ambient temperature changes.