Teken

Normally, fast blinking indicates the MS is low on battery power, can not communicate either because of noise or a broken link to a device no longer in the network or not powered. The last fast blink is when remote programming is active. This seems to differ depending upon what firmware is in the hardware and ISY.

Answers in line . . . NOTE: Home Automation has come a long way from the X-10 days. In many ways it still has lots of ground to cover and become fully automated and what most people would consider Plug & Play. The problem has and will always be the lack of a common standard in the field. This has been seen in the computer industry for decades and finally most things are standardized. Even though in the PC industry there are standards it doesn't mean it will relay to being something practical. Case in point Apple in their infinite wisdom decided to offer the first laptop ever to use USB Type C. Even though this standard is epic in their own right only a retard would purposely force a user to have one freaking I/O port. How on Gods green earth is someone going to have a measure of fail over if that single port ever fails? Keeping in mind this single port is used to charge the device and also serve as I/O port. Because Apple is all about sucking every penny out of your pocket you will have the privilege of you guessed it. Buy a $40.XX adapter to use a standard USB, Ethernet, Serial, what ever I/O you need! So, as you can see just because there is a standard doesn't mean its going to be fun for the end user / consumer. If said vendor decides to offer a half baked solution and [censored]ize the same in hopes of convincing the iSheep its OK. Keeping in mind Apple single handily was the first, and the rest of the morons followed in offering the first ever cell phone in recorded history that a battery could not be replaced! Followed with the first laptops to do the very same and not allow RAM, Battery, HD to be replaced, ever . . . So where are we with HA these days? My view is you can sit it out and wait for the next 2-5 years for the dust to settle and see where these clowns are headed. Or decide on a controller that will support multi protocol devices. The nod does have to go to companies like Wink / Smarthings in supporting multi protocols. But in the big picture both are toys and and ultimately those who want more transition to a 994 Series Controller or similar like HS, or software solution. With everyone coming out with their next big idea like thread, home kit, alljoyn, yes you guessed it. There will be another round of the *Gong Show* to be seen by the masses. HA has always been a hobby for the tinker's and those who like to figure things out. At this point in time HA is a massive fad that will mostly die and go away and you will see lots of companies doing the same. The biggest and current lame method every Tom, Dick, and Harry is pushing is cloud based services. Only a moron would literally let some unknown company / person have direct control, access, and service to your home via the so called virtual cloud. The Insteon HUB is cloud based and if the cloud is ever sad you will have no method to remotely control, access, add / delete, created scenes as it requires the connection to their cloud hosted services. A 994 Series Controller is not cloud dependent at all but can and does integrate with many cloud based services like IFTT etc.

Using this or similar is perfectly fine: http://www.lowes.com/pd_238102-53911-CSNMG-NG_1z0xc75__?productId=3142197&pl=1 NOTE: As stated regardless of the method used to connect the load the upstream supply must be protected via a GFCI outlet or GFCI breaker . . .

Well in short lots of things have progressed while other areas have not. In no specific order this is my take away for the last 12 months of 2015. - Z-Wave multi channel support is imminently due - UDI has crafted a new cloud based portal which will allow Amazon Echo, IFTT, etc integration. - 5.XX platform has finally been released and is moving forward in many areas for variables, node support etc. - No word on the UDI Global PLM: I gather this is either shelved or still waiting Smartlabs approval? - ZigBee: Currently UDI has no plans of expanding on the different profiles to support HA, Security etc which is a real sad to see. There is no intention to expand on the Energy Module at the current time frame. They believe there is no ROI / demand for this at the moment. - The admin console can now adjust the font size for those using high definition screens. This is their first pass at this and a few bugs have arisen which I am sure will be solved in due time. - It was stated that UI improvements will be moved up the priority ladder for the future. - Smartlabs is currently working on a swath of new hardware devices which 994 firmware already supports. Such as the long awaited dual band I/O linc. The latest Alert Module is now out but support is still pending. The latest Morning Linc has a new body and should be supported now in the 994. - ALL ON / ALL OFF: This issue is still unresolved but it seems this problem has also died down since the summer. There is no one solution that has fixed this problem for those impacted by this issue. Smartlabs has removed all commands that relate to the ALL ON / ALL OFF from all current shipping hardware. The latest 2413S PLM still does not seem to address this issue. - A few ingenious folks have found a way to integrate both a HUB II with a ISY Series Controller. This allows those wanting to control Amazon Echo, Harmony, Apple Watch do so.

To be accurate the 99 Series Controller is End of Life with respect to being developed and offering any new firmware. This means any newer ISY features and new Insteon hardware support will not be available. So long as your existing Insteon network does not require new hardware support the 99 Series Controller is more than capable of operating in this fashion. Since your only goal is to integrate X-10 with the controller none of this applies to you.

Hello Guy, If you did a search in this forum I am sure you found lots of feed back about ensuring this automated task is done with the highest level of safety taken into consideration. Regardless of the *Safety Nancy* speech I would encourage you to validate the following before this program is incorporated and deployed in your home. The life and safety of you, your family, and possessions are literally on the line. ==================== ==================== Safety checks that should be done on a annual basis regardless of automation in place. - Safety Eye: Are both safety eye sensor clean, aligned, and operates as expected to stop and reverse the GDO. - Force Detection: Has the force detection rate and pressure been calibrated to a known limit that meets the OEM Spec. Does the GDO automatically reverse when an object has been impacted? - Counter Balance: With the emergency release cable engaged and the door free hung. Does the door stay in any position the user places it? Can the door be manipulated with one hand with out serious effort? When the door is free hung does the door slam open - closed when placed in this positions? - Torsion Springs: Are all springs wound properly which reflects the load as stated in (Counter Balance). Does any of the springs show signs of cracking, splitting, or actually separated? - Closed / Open Limit: Has the GDO open - closed limit been validated for bottom gasket crush depth? Is the open limit set to the correct distance per the OEM? All of these areas must be checked, tested, and validated on a annual basis to ensure long term performance and reliability. Along with providing safety to all who use and are around the GDO. If you'r not well versed in any of the above reading the full users manual will offer the insight and training that is required to adjust, confirm, and validate. If this is not something you're comfortable in doing please consider hiring this task out to any certified GDO installer. *Safety Nancy* out . . .

You can purchase the module now from within the Admin Console. Select purchase module and it will bring you to the UDI website. Help -> Purchase Modules. The $49.00 is for a full two year subscription which is a pretty good value over all given what it will allow the end user to integrate and connect to.

The air gap is designed to act like you turned off the power at the breaker. It essentially (physically) breaks the contact from line source. If it didn't remove power from the load that means one of several things were at play here. - Air gap was not pulled all the way until it bottomed out. - Air gap contact (arc) is not properly spaced per design. - There is another path of line voltage still present. - The PSU has shorted in the closed position.

Larry, That is probably one of the few Insteon devices I personally don't have. Thus far I haven't needed an actual outdoor module to control anything in the yard. I too am interested in how the RF signal is able to penetrate the metal casing? Since I have never open one up my assumption is they use the case as a radiated antenna. As the antenna could not be incorporated into the whip of the power cord. As that would be against UL / cUL for obvious safety reasons.

Speaking for myself only I truly believe the OP just wanted to vent and also ask some pertinent questions. Its easy for lots of folks including myself to come out blasting and become the *Safety Nancy* and quarter back after the fact. There were lots of good suggestions and solutions offered along the way. As others indicated there were lots of OT (Off Topic) discussions which did and didn't relate. I am guilty of this myself, but wanted to state my only intent was to ensure key things were addressed and understood. In my time as a member here over all I have learned a ton of things and tried to share just as many. It would sadden me to read that anyone felt unwelcome in a forum of knowledge. As in life we all have a talk track, and a method of communication. Some of us are a little more PC while others literally speak from the heart and its extremely hard to discern humor, sarcasm, and ill intent just from words. This is why I always try to use the appropriate emoticon to express my (current) meaning and thought(s). After reading a few replies from other long time members and also reviewing my very own *Initial Reply* I can see why the tone would come across as negative and unhelpful. I personally apologize if the information I presented was less than helpful to you in your mind. But know straight up safety is paramount to me and many others and they only want the best for their fellow HA brothers. I know you have acted upon many if not all concerns in this thread and (ARE) fully aware of what next steps need to be. Again, I hope very much you stay and ask future questions and along the way also relay the same to the next guy. X-MAS is fast approaching so wanted to extend my best wishes to you and your family. And be thankful this situation was caught in time before more serious outcome was seen. Lastly, on another tangent: This is the perfect example of why alarm security monitoring by a 3rd party CS is so important. Those who truly believe self monitoring is OK have no freaking clue how life operates. To the OP good on you in having a 24.7.365 CS guarding over your family and home. I am sure this experience reinforces the value and importance of having such services in place. Now, lets all game on . . .

As others indicated many of us living in the colder regions have had great success with Insteon products controlling outdoor appliances. It goes with out saying using these devices well outside of the operating range the product was designed for. Can't be blamed on the vendor should you see a early failure. The stated operating range is 32'F to 104'F / 0'C to 40'C. This newly released dual band - dual controllable outlet is one of the best upgraded products Smartlabs has come out with yet. Almost all of the spec's on this device surpasses the older one by two times. - 250 RF range line of sight -1000 volt surge protection - <0.4 watts idle consumption It should also be noted this device is only rated to control incandescent loads and not LED's. Regardless, I've had no issues doing so in my X-MAS set up but YMMV here. Last but not least a purpose built outdoor module is made available from Smartlabs even though its not as stealthy but is designed to do so: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2634-222-on-off-outdoor-module-dual-band.html NOTE: Please ensure that the upstream outlet that powers this Insteon outlet is on a GFCI or on a GFCI breaker.

I just wanted to clarify my reply and examples were related to the Insteon Appliance Lincs and not any sort of switches etc. In the past Smartlabs offered these devices in either resume on, or resume off. This behavior seemed to flip flop over the years in various iterations of the hardware. Later someone had a flash of genius moment and said how about we make it remember the devices last known state? That was a epic day for lots of us . . . As noted having the ability for a device to come on, remain off, offers a user different solutions for use cases that are needed. As I indicated I have several of the resume off when power is lost and applied for my clothes washer and other expansive appliances. Lastly, if you're serious about getting rid of some of those switches I am sure I can find a nice home for some of them. Send me a PM and lets see if we can find a good middle ground for the hardware.

Hello Jason, As you indicated LED bulbs are a hit and miss affair with many brands of HA controllers not just Insteon. It should be noted there are not very many Insteon products that indicate official support for LED bulbs. The only one that comes to mind is the ILL (In-Line LInc) which does indicate LED bulb support. Having said this does the flicker seem to track with the Insteon signals going back and forth?

All of the points you made are solid and a reasonable person would have to ask the same very question. On the surface one would think a company like Google who at every turn touts open source standards, availability for all, and integration. Would lead the charge in this endeavor and allow Tom, Dick, Harry to play in the sandbox. Doing so would drive sales because people like you and me know some 3rd party controller like the 994 Series Controller is able to take advantage of the latest and greatest selling TSTAT. I've tried for years to come up with solid reasons why allowing those with existing energy management features denied access? Its a freaking thermostat for God sake's its not the keys to the city . . . But I digress, as its clear the only way at the present is to use some middle ware and hardware solutions which is just a kludge! BTW: This is a great discussion that offers a nice work around: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17070-nest-integration/

There is no method to change one button this is a global value that affects all keys. You can hard reset the device and perform a restore device to see if that solves the issue.

That is a pretty loaded question considering the company you're asking about. This company is hell bent on becoming SkyNET and having complete command & control of everything in our lives. As an aside if you do a quick search in this forum there was a young lad that indicated a hack to allow control of the Nest TSTAT. I also believe a related thread was indicated in the Vera forum so you should go over there and see what pops out.

The OP's problem seems very similar to what I am seeing this very moment in my home. This problem seems to have started about the same time I upgraded to 4.4.1 Beta firmware. The strange thing is activating the direct node turns the *foyer* light on-off with out issue. Using the scene again has no issue completing this task. Going directly to any linked switch in the home has no problem either. Its when the MS turns the light on it doesn't turn the load off yet (some) of the linked devices turn off. As a next step after doing all the device restores, air gap, hard reset and restore, etc. I replaced the MS with a brand new unit and it (almost) behaves the same way. Everything was rock solid a month ago and nothing new has been introduced besides replacing a few single band devices to dual band switch linc dimmers. As an aside in the 4.4.1 thread I noted that I can not create a new scene that controls a device WTF?

No, its immediate to the vendor . . . You're giving them too much credit for the slow shipping and processing. This has been seen every year for all major sales seasons going back at least five years for me.

You guys are too much . . . As an aside I wanted to clarify the fail safe vs fail secure terminology with respect to security. Specifically in automotive use for starter, ignition, inhibitors using a relay. When a relay is wired with a fail safe configuration should the alarm fail or be compromised the relay is Normally Closed (N.C) this would still allow the vehicle to be started. In a fail secure relay configuration should the alarm system be compromised the relay is Normally Open (N.O) and requires the alarm to be present to close the relay contact to allow the vehicle to start. I just wanted to put that out there because those 12 volt guys would be all over my aszz for not calling it out properly in that use case.

Back in the day I had multi purpose outlets that could be configured for fail safe vs fail secure. When they stopped making them I used the Appliance Linc which upon power loss would default to a off state. I used this for several appliances in my home as a method to protect the appliance against quick on-off conditions seen in the past. Using this method has protected some of my very expensive electronics and appliances like clothes washer.

I absolutely have no words for that statement . . . LMAO *Ladies and gentlemen - we have a 5 minute stand up comedy act c/o Larryllix*

There are several things I will try to address in no specific order. ETL is the testing lab which is the equivlence to UL / cUL in a general nature. As their primary function is to help companies (facilitate) to test, meet, and produce items that meet global standards as indicated above and in the EU its called CE. As I stated early on how a product operates doesn't really matter in the general sense. Its when you combine different use cases and scenarios that can, will, and have caused issues. A laymen would assume something would come back in a off state. While others want the reverse in many industries its aptly called and phrased as *Fail Safe vs Fail Secure* Now, let me qualify that normally these two phrases are used strictly in the form of security and other industries. But the general premise applies here. For example when Smartlabs had the older Appliance Linc default to the off state this is considered *Fail Secure*. This is fine for a toaster, coffee maker etc. Fail Safe would be mean when the device came back up the unit would be powered. This would operate perfectly for a sump, fridge, etc because you want power to be present upon power loss and restored when there. Again, some may find value in one or the other but ultimately the intent lies with the consumer. I have learned the hard way like many others that the responsibility falls upon us alone. All of us can dance around and muse about what should of, could of, would of. The hard lesson learned here is you're most certainly more cognoscente of how things operate and (IF) they meet your use case in your personal environment. As you can probably tell I have seen, lived, and experienced these things on a epic level. So I offer the feed back not simply as a outside observer (JAFO) but from personal experience.

Larry, Not sure I follow what you're saying here? The OP still uses halogen lights there are no LED's in use now outside hence why the massive 8000 watts. As to the power blip, again this thread wouldn't exist if it didn't happen and thus the fire etc. As to the segmented loads my reply was to your inquiry about load shedding which the OP does not have in place. Ha . . .

I have a question for you more of a personal curiosity how many lights and specifically what does each area consume? Pool? Tennis Court, Perimeter Home? Are some lights for example at the tennis court 500 - 1500 watt halogen flood lamps? In a commercial space 8000 watts isn't out of the ordinary but in a residential space. Oh yeah baby . . .

Larry, As I read the OP's initial thread which he will need to clarify. Is that he has several Insteon switches which control various outdoor lighting fixtures. Some for the home, perimeter, and various others like the pool, tennis court. They are obviously on separate switches but when there is a blip in power. These ill conceived devices turn on. Thus causing a massive load to be present when the back up generator is spooling up. Many if not all back up generators offer surge power like when a fridge, sump kicks in. But that is while the generator is fully operating at normal speeds. His problem is that power goes out than when enough time normally (5-10) minutes the back up generator will kick in. The problem is all of these switches are then defaulted to a on state which the generator is not capable of supporting over a long period of time. Start up power is separate and different than surge power, or even load shedding. Load shedding is a active element that smart generators incorporate whether it be removing a load when power exceeds the systems ability, or to bring it back on line when the system determines its safe to do so. Regardless of the above the primary goal and job of the back up generator is to supply power to critical loads such as HVAC, Fridge, Freezer, Sump, common outlets. Many people take the view since the back up generator is capable of supplying gobs of power its OK to power things like the dryer, washer, etc. That's fine and dandy so long as people realize the first two elements of load shedding, surge power, and start up power are tested and validated as meeting those needs. In my travels I have seen lots of so called high dollar generators not even meet the basic surge, start up, load shedding capabilities they the maker claim. The key thing I have learned in life is never take any ones word for anything. Test, validate, and validate some more and in real world use cases. Not when things are all rosy and blue skies as doing so will leave people in a bind when it really matters.