Teken

The current HUB II (Square body) does not support X-10 any longer but the older HUB v2 (Rectangle Body) still does.

I think that would be a great test if somoene who has one could try and follow the OP's lead and report back. I really do believe we are all on the cuspid of voice control where its more streamed lined and does not require so much coding and middle ware and endless trials. Don't get me wrong I really appreciate those who have blazed a trail for others to follow since these solutions were not known or present before. A few things for me is to see a reduced price for the Amazon Echo along with it being actually sold in Canada! Next, that they expand on their current API and what access is allowed in their current system etc. Lastly, I am really hoping to see a much tighter integration either from Apple, Amazon, Smartlabs with respect to the above method.

I believe you mean the HUB Pro? I don't believe the HUB II allows Siri access even with the generation 3 Apple TV. I believe Siri access is only available via the HUB Pro but I could be wrong but that is what I have read over the last 14 months.

I'm sorry can you rephrase that again?

Stu, Thanks for the quick over view of the basic elements. I can see quite a few people who have a HUB II still in the closet enjoying this simple integration method. When I look at what is currently out there this method even though limited does in fact allow the most basics to be added in and the use of the Amazon Echo voice system.

I wanted to start a new thread about how a very clever and smart Insteon user has been able to use the power of the HUB II, ISY, and the Amazon Echo so it works almost as one system via voice control. The direct thread is listed here: http://forum.smarthome.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17353 I believe the beauty of this method is that it does not require all of the hoops, middle ware, and endless coding to get something basic up and running. This information came at the perfect time as I am currently running a demo system for a project. Our resident Stu has alreay completed the above and perhaps he can chime in to the pro's and con's of this approach over the other two methods which are under development by UDI and forum members like Barry.

One of them has the following information, revision 2.0 production date 1810. Unfortunately the ISY does not show the firmware because it was added to my system long ago before the polling feature was made available in later firmware which shows the common v.00 Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

That was a great step by step and excellent way to repurpose a used 9 volt battery cell. I know from personal experience that once in awhile pulling apart the cheap terminals often times results in ripping the wires clean off of the connectors. This happen to me on my Liftmaster outdoor wall mount remote key pad. To be fair I can't fault Liftmaster on providing a poor quality connector because the battery was actually fused and rusted together when it broke loose.

It's both actually as some firmware does not activate a link to a ON position when a low battery condition is presented. By default lithium batteries have a lower VDC when compared to standard alkaline cells. This is why fresh cells and those that offer higher current output is important to have and use. I've been using rechargeable lithium cells with 750 mAh output for a few years now with great success. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Yes . . . Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

My reply should have been more specific so I apologize if I was unclear. The over all intent with the portal is that some elements of the service would make controlling another 994 Series Controller some what easier. Those who are using the 5.XX Beta platform and 4.3.26 as far as I am aware already have this ability as I have read. Clarification will need to be provided by UDI as to the amount of over lap and control the portal will have over the (native) controller based system. With respect to third party control via the 994 Series Controller? It would depend upon whether or not this device has the ability to take network commands etc. If it does and they are documented I am sure lots of folks would be able to provide some insight and feedback as to what the network resource structure would look like to control the 3rd party system. I know from casual reading that lots of folks have had great success with iTach, Sono's, RPi, Onkyo, etc. My belief and (limited) understanding is that once the 5.XX platform has matured and developed a lot more, is lots of these things will be quite doable natively with out the aid of the ISY Portal.

This is just a quick summary and Michel will need to affirm or clarify anything I stated here: 1. Allows remote access to the controller with out the need to complete port forwarding in the router. 2. Allows multiple users, accounts, and control of multi ISY controllers to be managed. 3. Allows two or more ISY Series Controllers to be connected and bi-directional control via network resources / programs. 4. Will allow more cloud based services to be connected to the hardware not available before: Echo, IFTT, etc 5. Allows 3rd party branding of the web portal to meet their companies needs etc.

Nope that's about it and ensure the parcel has tracking . . .

Yes, you can definitely use the Range Extenders (RE) to enhance the RF range of your Insteon network. But I would humbly suggest you purchase either a plugin Lamp Linc / On-Off Relay module instead. As it provides bridging / coupling but also offers dual use for light - appliance control. The RE only couples / bridges the Insteon network and relays RF to powerline communications and offers no secondary use. So if you're going to spend $40.XX Plus already might as well get dual use when and if you need it in the future.

Given the distance and required service life you expect it would only make sense to install and deploy a 3rd party wall mounted motion sensor switch in conjunction with a Insteon device which has a sense input. That can be the Inline Linc module or the Micro On/Off relay or dimmer style. It really comes down to where these integration will take place and the amount of room that is available. Normally both devices are placed at the fixture point and unless the JBOX has lots of space shoe horning a Micro module might prove very difficult and tedious.

Some people have wired a Leviton motion sensor switch to the Micro On-Off relays to accomplish the same task.

That isn't very common here in Canada but after watching lots of home renovation shows it seems to be very pervasive in America. I find it very interesting to see different techniques and methods used to accomplish the same end goal. Then again seeing HWT, AC units in a persons attic is really a head shaker for me . . . I guess also seeing people with out basements is also odd to for some of us. I can understand if the area is prone to flooding or where the soil is not agreeable to build a basement but it seems like a wasted opportunity, no?

Jon, That is a huge thing I have seen first hand in several homes. Lots of folks were buying the very high (MERV) rated filters aka Hepa filters. Lots of people soon found out when the furnace had issues or declared a fault code why it was. Every furnace has a maximum static pressure it can work in and what the MERV rated filters it can accommodate.

I wanted to provide the forum members some visual aids and statistics which illustrates why I followed a different path and approach. Below are three screen captures and one of them shows how much power is consumed when the furnace is taken out of the loop. As you see the image called Fan Only consumes a modest 81.XX watts. The next image shows the furnace brought on line with the (inline) exhaust fan (Fan & Furnace) which consumes 414.XX watts. Lastly, this is what my furnace consumes at its maximum speed out put which shows 551.XX watts. This is why I automate the HVAC system depending upon season, temperature, humidity using the inline exhaust fan option only. The energy savings in this mode simply can not be over stated. This has been a great discussion and lots of insight for me along with many others. BTW: Larry, much thanks for that one link regarding the three different types of motors in use today. I saw something similar two years ago but it never addressed the GE style it was a good read!

Oh Larry, You always make me laugh and bring a smile to my face, thanks!

Paul, Not sure why my subscription didn't tell me there were replies here?!?!? Anyways, the variables monitor some key attributes which in my opinion matter most to the over all (perceived) comfort of the home and to the occupants. Most people know or soon realize that it requires more energy to heat up a humid environment. The second part is determining at what level is acceptable to the end users and what goal is sought. IMHO 40 - 55% relative humidity is perfect in the cold north where I live . . . Once the home is at this level the next important aspect for me is what area is colder / hotter? To some their expectation is to have all (living spaces) to be the same etc. That's fine if that is your goal but for me I've found that to be a waste of resources and is really unnecessary. Meaning if I see a 1 degree change in temperature from another area, floor, zone, that doesn't concern me and I certainly will not chase the rabbit in enabling my systems to compensate for. Note, I am not talking about sensor error or variance but actual temperature differences in the home. All of my sensors have been tested, spec'd, and validated to have a variance of less than 0.5 degree's so in my case I am comparing a Apple to Apple and not to a Water Mellon! Ha . . . Next unlike many the HVAC is not my first line of defense or system to balance the homes environmental temperatures. For me the first things that get enabled and deployed are zoned ceiling fans which during summer / winter offer the bulk of circulation in the home. Obviously the rotation of the fan is adjusted to season its going to operate in so this is my first line of defense. Next are two variable fans which are located high up ( 12 feet on ledge ) which push or suck all the hot air from the vaulted ceiling. Depending upon what is required the fans are either configured to push air or to suck air. This is where the massive 1 wire system grid comes into play because the system is programmed to compare anywhere from 2 to 32 sensors and five humidity sensors. Based on thresholds met / not met the system will continue to (stage) and add more time or bring in other sub systems to meet the final goal. Next, the system will bring on line the over head range and its only goal is to evacuate the home and suck down the hot air being pushed by the two ledge fans. This causes massive movement of air in my home and normally with in 15 minutes all of that wasted and trapped hot air is forced down to the living space where it should be used and enjoyed. At that point if the system has determined the home has met its target the system will shut down all systems until called upon again. If at this point the home still has not met the target the central exhaust is brought on line suck out more air but the key thing at this juncture is that the intake air is not brought on line. The house for all intense of purpose is operating in a negative pressure environment . . . I've found in my home because its so freaking tight that this method allows me to suck out lots of heat during the summer with out the negative impact of in taking hot / humid air. During the winter the furnace is allowed to operate and when the central exhaust is activated fresh cool air is brought in. Same as Scott847 this causes a positive pressure envelope in the home. My red neck method to see air movement and to validate my ideas have all come from using incense sticks. The fragile smoke it billows out allows absolute visuals as to air movement and the impact it has on different circulation methods. With the Autelis Bridge, Dash Box, and Green Eye Monitor, SEG, I can see live all areas, floors, zones, for immediate temperature / humidity and whether or not my systems are working or not. As stated above this empirical data has been outstanding to confirm ideas, systems, and goals. The main reason I pushed to go this route is because it doesn't take much for a person to *feel* like things are fine / not fine. Feeling something is often not very accurate especially as people get older etc. This is why I stressed at the very top control and management of humidity in the home plays more on (Human) then actual temperature. Essentially, I am cheating using humidity to give a perceived warmth, when in fact its actually colder than the family thinks it is. In the summer its the same I let the humidity go straight down in the 30's and this allows the house to be physically hotter and the (perceived) heat is manageable and bearable for all. Hope the above proves helpful to some of you . . . As my main driver has been energy consumption while balancing a healthy home for all.

Either works fine . . .

Paul, Back in the day when I had no reference about temperature / humidity in my home. I did something similar thinking it would help but after deploying my 1 wire sensor array this idea proved to be wrong and a waste of energy resources. My environment is obviously much different then yours given age, build, design which impacts my personal findings. Essentially my home is very tight meaning very little air leakage. It's very well insulated and thus requires less heating / cooling to maintain long term ambient temperatures through out the home. Since the sensor grid has been deployed the fan is activated only 3 times a day set at 8 hour intervals and operates for 15 minutes or extends based on variables met / not met. The final outcome is stable temps as before but less energy consumption during the 8 long winter months. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

I agree this issue has been reported in the past by a few customers. OP, for the benefit of others can you please state the hardware information listed on the switch & the ISY firmware information. This will at least allow others to track this issue and be able to determine if their devices are prone to this issue and what to look for. As an aside the following quote was offered by Smarthome:

That's True!