giesen

One thing that would further this discussion would be some indication if WiFi/Bluetooth is available (or will be available) as an add-on from UDI (similar to the Z-Wave and IR add-ons), or if it's a now or never proposition (USB sticks aside) Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

SmartHome was originally going to supply chips or firmware to allow UDI to manufacture it's own PLM due to the ALL ON bug as well as reliability problems with the PLM. That arrangement was yanked halfway through the process (without explanation AFAIK), which is enough to give anyone pause as to SmartHome's intentions around supporting third-party platforms. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

I don't think the Insteon Hub uses a PLM at all (either USB or Serial), so if they were to discontinue one they may discontinue the other. A lot of other smaller projects use the PLM, and what it really comes down to is if SmartHome wants to give up sales of Insteon products for people who won't use their hub and force those people to go Z-Wave. I think it would be foolhardy considering the minimal costs of continuing to offer & support the PLM (all the R&D is done, the injection molds are made, etc). Also, I'd wager the third-party Insteon user's average spend on Insteon products is much higher than people using the hub. They're generally more technically-inclined, and are more aggressive when it comes to automating their home, as opposed to someone buying a few plug-in modules or bulbs. That being said, if their HomeKit gamble pays off and they can drive huge volumes out of those same plug-in modules, they may decide that the enthusiast market is not worth the trouble. That and Z-Wave is making huge strides with functionality, compatibility, and breadth of products, effectively eating their lunch... Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Only option might be the USB PLM, but doubt that solves the reliability problems and slightly increases complexity. Serial is still huge in the building automation space (think RS485) because it's simple and reliable... it just works. I use it on a daily basis in my day job... Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

I bought the Pro. Didn't want to take a chance that I needed bluetooth later and couldn't add it. That and price likely won't get any better... Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Given that CPU Power and Memory have been increased like a thousandfold, I'm guessing a lot. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Please, please use an external Z-Wave USB stick (perhaps something like the Aeon Labs Z-stick). That way the network can be set up without dragging the Polisy all over the house on an extension cord. It also means I can use a USB cable to position the stick outside of the can my ISY is mounted in (which is why I have not upgraded to the newer z-wave module - no external antenna support) Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

This looks like an interesting solution: https://github.com/wickerwaka/harmony-bridge Pairs with Harmony using bluetooth and you can map buttons to REST calls (on the ISY) Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Maybe an RPI with a bluetooth receiver (assuming you can get it to pair with the Harmony and write backend code to make API calls to the ISY). But honestly, I can think of more useful and interesting problems to solve when there's a cheap usable solution already available. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

What is it you're looking to do that using IR will not accomplish? Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

I ran an IR over Coax extender from my TV to my structured media panel (why my ISY is). You can also get IR over CAT5 and HDMI extenders as well. They're pretty cheap (I think about $30 or so) and you can get them at Monoprice or Amazon. https://www.monoprice.com/search/index?keyword=IR+Extenders Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Since it's just serial, he could use a fibre RS232 extender and eliminate the risk of bridging the two electrical systems. Instant optical isolation Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

You may be SOL then. I don't think those 2-wire dimmers can be used in a 3-way configuration (I could be wrong, if anyone knows different feel free to chime in) as there'd be no way to power the 2nd switch (you could do just one though). Without going into the fixture box to install the micro dimmer, your only option left would be to pull a neutral into either box 1 or box 2 (which would probably mean cutting drywall; I've done it in my 70 year old house many times to replace switch loops and get neutrals or grounds to boxes but I realize it's not for everyone). Of course the best solution which should bring you up to current code is replace that 2-conductor switch loop between box 1 and the fixture box with a 3-conductor cable so you can keep your switch loop and get a neutral in box 1. Or get a licensed electrician in to have a look as he may have other ideas. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

What kind of lighting? Incandescent, halogen or LED? Also, Insteon makes a 2-wire dimmer as well: https://www.smarthome.com/switchlinc-2-wire-dimmer-insteon-2474dwh-remote-control-dimmer-rf-white.html But again only works for Incandescent/halogen. And not sure how it'd work in a 3-way setup. They work by always running the light at a very low voltage, stealing enough power to run themselves. This trick doesn't work with LED. Also, if there's only two wires going into that box, then all our assumptions about how this thing is wired are wrong (refer to the first diagram I created) Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

You can disregard the post above as I see now in one of your posts you have no neutrals at all in box 2. So yes, you are left with using a micro module, or (my preferred solution, but certainly not for the faint of heart) replacing cable 1 with a 3 conductor cable to get you a neutral in box 1. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

I believe oberkc is correct that you have a switch loop, and the line from the panel is going into the fixture first. I've drawn it out here (please point out if I've made any mistakes in the original wiring): Which is almost functionally identical to what's listed for a Lutron S-603P wiring diagram here: http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/368-4493_Page_5.pdf The only thing that is throwing me off is I would have thought the white in Box 2 would have been connected to the common (black) screw on the 3-way switch, and that the light would come on in only 1 out of 4 possible combinations (instead of 2 out of four): Combinations: SW1-P1, SW2-P1: Current into common of SW1, out T1 of SW1 (red wire), into T1 of SW2, out common of SW2, back to T2 of SW1 -- Light Off SW1-P2, SW2-P1: Current into common of SW1, out T2 of SW1 (black wire), into common of SW2, out T1 of SW2, back to T1 of SW1 -- Light Off SW1-P1, SW2-P2: Current into common of SW1, out T1 of SW1 (red wire), into T1 of SW2 -- Light Off SW1-P2, SW2-P2: Current into common of SW1, out T2 of SW1 (black wire), into common of SW2, out T2 of SW2 to fixture -- Light On If you have both an (unswitched) hot and a neutral in box 2, you should be able to cap off the hot and neutral (individually) going to the fixture, cap off the red wire between both boxes, and wire as such: Just make sure you document well how it was so you can put it back as necessary. Note I am not an electrician, and take no responsibility for any harm that may come to you from anything posted here.

Did you ever take a look at what wires are at the fixture? Did you figure out where your hot/neutral from the panel are? Sure be pretty easy to figure that out if you detach all your wires, spread them apart, and check voltage between pairs.

My money is on failing/failed PLM. How old is your PLM? Did you try power-cycling it as well? The pattern of gradually failing, and now the RX and TX on solid (which indicates Insteon traffic), I'd bet it's the PLM. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

It doesn't transmit through the router, it transmits TO the router, instructing it to open ports. So if your router supports UPnP, any piece of malware inside your network can open ports to expose your internal network to the Internet without any sort of confirmation or authentication. See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Plug_and_Play#Problems_with_UPnP Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

That menu item should really be called "Enable access to ISY from the Internet (using UPnP)”. All it does is have the ISY talk to your router using UPnP to set up port forwards. Many routers don't support UPnP or have it disabled by default-and for good reason, UPnP is a security nightmare. You can accomplish the same thing by configuring port forwards on your router manually. It has nothing to do with the ISY itself having access to the Internet (to set the time or connect to the portal, for example). I don't know why UDI hasn't changed the name of the menu options, there have been many threads and posts on this forum with people confused about the same thing. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

The bigger problem for me will be that my ISY sits in a metal 42” can, and am using an external antenna not for range, but to get the signal outside the can... Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Problem Exists Between Keyboard And Chair Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

The problem with an HTTPS proxy is that it breaks the subscription portion of the API Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Yes, which is why uPnP is a security nightmare... Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

The "Enable Internet Access" option really enables a protocol called uPnP. The ISY talks to your router (which also must speak uPnP), and gets the router to open any ports needed. This also provides the ISY with your public IP. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk