giesen

In the box downstairs, the white wire from upstairs should be tied to the neutrals, and the black wire from upstairs should be tied to the hot (line) feed from the panel. The red traveller should be capped at both ends. In the box upstairs, wire the switch black wire to the black wire in the box, the white switch wire to the white in the box, and cap off the red load wire on the switch. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

The other thing I would note (as I recently had my ISY unplugged for a couple of days) is that the switch will work, but the bottom LED will flash red if it can't contact one of the devices it's linked to... Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I ws really just trying to determine best practice. I was doing some reading on irrigation systems, and I see in at least some areas the water meter is at the property line and that the irrigation branches off in the front lawn. Obviously in my case that's not possible, so was wondering whether it's better to have the ASV before or after the branch for the irrigation system so that my Elk would or would not have to coordinate with the sprinkler system to make sure there is water available for it to use. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I didn't think it was legal (at least in my jurisdiction) to install it before the water meter. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I'm looking to install an ASV and a sprinkler system. The water meter is in my basement. The question is whether to install the ASV between the water meter and the branch off the main line for the sprinkler system (so that the ASV would control the supply for both the house and the sprinkler system); or to install the ASV after the irrigation system branches off the main line... Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I'm thinking of getting a Greenfield ASV myself, and wondering if you would install it before or after the irrigation feed... Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Why yes, I believe it was... Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Nope, Chrome has been banned by parliamentary decree, and the ban upheld by the SCC [emoji39] Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Those are massive (and correspondingly, the hole used to insert them) compared to the Flair VIP70 (http://www.flairsecurity.com/product/vip70-38-recessed-plunger-switch/) I used

Sure it does, when there are weaker entry points, and reliability of the sensing is important. Besides, you can always reinforce it with a plate or a strike box.

I did it for my house (albeit with a wired sensor). But then again, there's nothing in my walls except 1x2 strapping and tar paper... Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

The OEM of the WSV (Greenfield) has an even better valve, the ASV100, that provides open/close status and is a bit cheaper (about $50 cheaper street price). http://www.greenfielddirect.com/automatic-security-valves/order-asv-products/ It comes in a number of different sizes, and is even available in models for use with combustible gases (though they are $$$). There's some more details in this thread: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/12765-elk-wsv2-for-less/ Edit: Added details for Greenfield ASV

Pushover also doesnt allow emergency-level notifications via email, but does via the REST API. There's also some cool stuff you can do via the API, such as read acknowledgements, having Pushover call a callback URL, etc. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Email can possibly suffer delays depending on how you're set up... Calling a REST API should be nearly instantaneous Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I'm going to re-evaluate my plan and see if I can come up with something better based on your suggestions. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I'd like to install coloured Hue bulbs in the pot lights in my rec room, and control on/off and dimming with a 2477D dimmer. Now I realize I can't do that directly, what I was thinking was to hard-wire the pot lights so they are always on, and install the dimmer with nothing connected on the load side. I'd then use the ISY Hue node server to have the ISY issue Hue commands to the bulbs when the dimmer is pushed. Any one done something similar to this? Can you speak to how responsive the commands would be? Also, my other concern is that since the Hue bulbs don't provide real-time status feedback to the ISY, if anyone manipulates the bulbs through the Hue app, I wouldn't be able to have the ISY adjust the dimmer to match the state. Is there a better way of doing this? Maybe another product out there beside Hue that offers coloured lights? I'm not really interested in using the "stick on" Hue wireless dimmer... Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I took a quick look at their website, and I don't see any mention of any API to interface with it. If it doesn't have any native capability of sending emails, you'll have to install a sensor in the latch bolt hole and interface that with your ISY to detect the bolt position.

The problem he'll have is that if he has a lighted pushbutton, it won't light because you've broken the circuit until after the doorbell is pushed, hence why he was trying the separate path with resistors.

There's also http://myusaddress.ca in Ogdensburg, NY (northeast of Kingston). Not sure if that's any closer to you, and I haven't used them before, but might be an option.

I use CBI www.cbiusa.com in Niagara Falls, NY. Never had them ship anything up here, I just go down there and pick it up. Costs $6 to receive a package.

Hah, I just spent an ungodly amount of time and money so I could install a doorbell in my 65 year old house that didn't have one (of course so I could hook it to my automation system) Hit the doorbell in my house, the porch light comes on after dark and the lights inside flash.

Pushover or Prowl/Notify My Android are great, I use them both, I use NMA to receive notifications from the ISY every time my alarm is armed/disarmed/etc. I use Pushover for work so I use NMA to keep them separate.

This one had definitely failed because it refused to reset. I replaced it and everything worked fine after that.

In my house (like almost all houses up here in Canuckistan) the boxes are metal and yet my admittedly small Insteon deployment (7 devices) has been virtually flawless in terms of reliability. The only module I ever had issues with was an outdoor plugin module that was used for my Christmas lights (and that appears to be because of a faulty GFCI receptacle).

And I'm telling you in Canada, that is not true. Virtually all boxes are metal here, with loomex/romex used for residential work. Unless you mean the conductors are copper (or aluminum), it which case I'm inclined to agree [emoji1] Not only that, when that part of his house was built, there were no plastic boxes, so metallic boxes are no guarantee of metallic cable. Not sure about his, but mine is filled with metal boxes and NMD-1 (tarred, paper-wrapped two conductor with no ground). At least, it was until I ripped most of it out and replaced with NMD-90/Loomex. Metal boxes are still used for almost all new construction to this day.