Javi

Is it possible to subscribe to the Portal using REST? I can send REST commands to ISY from portal with the same Credentials String credential = Credentials.basic(mUserName, mPassword); mRequest = new Request.Builder() .url(baseUrl) .header("Authorization", credential) .addHeader("Sec-WebSocket-Protocol", "ISYSUB") .addHeader("Sec-WebSocket-Version", "13") .addHeader("Origin", "com.universal-devices.websockets.isy") .build(); mListener = new IsyWebSocketListener(); I get the following Error: unexpected end of stream on Connection{my.isy.io:443, proxy=DIRECT hostAddress=my.isy.io/34.237.193.77:443 cipherSuite=TLS_RSA_WITH_AES_128_GCM_SHA256 protocol=http/1.1}

Hi James, Although I do not own either of these devices and it is my personal preference to not automate door locks or security devices with voice, it appears you can "Query connected devices for their current state" the GetLockStateRequest and GetTemperatureReadingRequest are (now) in the Alexa API. https://developer.amazon.com/public/solutions/alexa/alexa-skills-kit/docs/smart-home-skill-api-reference (bottom of document)

Thanks for the information Benoit, The following statements are my thoughts and opinions on this topic and is not based on facts. I am sure most of the conversational actions are using API.AI. We will just have to wait until you are given access to direct actions. I will keep this work around in mind in the case G decides everyone whom wants direct actions needs to pay a fee (such as the IFTTT fee), in addition IFTTT assistant actions (this) appear to have too much control over the google home, with the ability to override some of the built in google actions. I have a gut feeling they are going to ask all third parties to use IFTTT or a service with a similar fee as G's current monetization strategies (serving ads) does not appear to be compatible with the google home.

It appears in my Console with Firmware v.4.5.4 on UI v4.5.1 and UI 4.5.4. Which Firmware are you running?

Here is a Video example of the simulated actions, I added the recipes in the Voice for IoT forum.

Michel, will UD will be doing the parsing of the conversational action? if you are, would it be possible to have a way of sending a string to the portal which can be parsed as a voice command? This would allow us to simulate Direct actions with only a few IFTTT recipes. We could use the IFTTT "make web request" with the following to have almost all home automation commands sent. Specifically would could create the following recipes for the assistant: Turn $ - which will appear to be direct actions for phrases such as "Hey Google" + "Turn on the lights", "Turn off the lights", "Turn up the volume".... Close $ - "Hey Google" + "close the blinds" Open $ - "Hey Google" + "open the blinds" Start $ - "Hey Google" + "start the <insert program here>" Stop $ - "Hey Google" + "stop the <insert program here>" Lock $ - "Hey Google" + "lock the <item to lock>" Unlock $ - "Hey Google" + "item the <item to unlock>" also a few ways to start a command Can you $ - "Hey Google" + "can you turn off the bedroom fan"... Please $ - "Hey Google" + "please turn off the bedroom fan".... I think these 8 recipes could cover almost all voice commands needed for home automation. I have added this to my app via AutoRemote and it works just like a direct action, but I think it would be better for all users if you could add a way for us to send a string to the portal for UD to parse.

Not sure I would do it but here you go: http://www.irrational.net/2014/03/22/reverse-engineering-a-ceiling-fan/

That was the reason I used it a few years back, before I went all in on voice...got tired of changing UIs for websites/apps every time I added/updated/removed/changed my devices. I did remember you could send a direct command which is why I suggested the plugin. In my opinion you should do everything possible to avoid being compromised, there are tutorials on this forum on how to get a cert. You may also want to look into vpn. Those are just my opinions, I am not a network security expert.

I recommend using the webserver eventghost plugin if you are trying to do something outside of the local network. Even if you get UDP to work, which may in itself be an uphill battle, it does not provide feedback so your commands may not reach the destination all of the time.

Can't say no to looking at strange....code. Thanks!

I have noticed that my receivers do this if the front aux input is connected, then return to the previous source when disconnected, but I'm not sure how we would do this automatically.

While I had some free time the other day I visited the EventGhost forum and found this topic which may be relevant to helping us with indoor location: http://www.eventghost.net/forum/viewtopic.php?uid=20034&f=2&t=9139&start=0 The github project: https://github.com/schollz/find I have not had much free time lately to test, but it appears a new android app will be released soon: https://github.com/uncleashi/find-client-android Unfortunately apple users may not be able to use this for indoor location: https://www.internalpositioning.com/faq/#can-i-use-an-iphone

I tried many times but ultimately gave up as the signals where too erratic. I think BLE indoor location may work in a store or conference hall but I do not think it will work in a small home (or any home with walls, furniture, multiple levels.). I have had much better success reading wifi levels from 2 wifi range extenders ( http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Extender-Gigabit-Ethernet-EX6100/dp/B00HHRP11C/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464407440&sr=1-6&keywords=netgear+wifi+extender ) placed on opposite sides of my home,especially 5 GHz band, but ultimately not reliable all of the time. Can you explain your setup a little more? Maybe I will try this out again...

Thought I would chime in with a similar experience. If I sent a scene "on" command and a few of the lights in the scene did not turn on, it did not matter how many additional times I sent the scene "on" command it would not turn on the lights which where off. It would work if I sent the scene off command then the scene on command again, sometimes. I ended up just having the program turn on each device after the scene on command which would work. I found I had a malfunctioning device which was causing most of the errors, but the scene problems still happen from time to time so I have these programs also trigger the device along with the scene.

Francois, My brother has a PC running 24/7 at his home with chrome open and the chrome remote desktop extension. This way he can view his cameras without a static IP (or dyndns), by doing a remote desktop connection. The extension does not require port forwarding or a static IP. May be worth a try to if you can leave a PC (or windows tablet) running. There are chrome remote desktop apps for phones also. I believe Paul is correct as far as the portal goes.

Stu I think our confusion is between the different Micro "Switch Operation Modes". My diagram works for the default "Latching Mode". I used the "Switch" diagram by mistake, as I just copied the pic from the smart home website and not the manual.

This is incorrect, if you see in the video it does not matter the on or off state of the manual switch. The sense will only toggle the micro if the state (powered, not powered) is changed.

I know I am beating a dead horse but I think they need to focus on more "action words" and device recognition. And if we wanted this, we would just invite family over

Stu, I forgot to connect the wire where the switch used to be, but is should have been obvious, attached is the connected wire with letters for each wire. A) is line power, always powered B is Neutral C) is Neutral D) is load, which is switched on and off by the "Electronic Power Board" so this wire does NOT always have power, It is only powered when switched ON by the "Electronic Power Board" E) connects to Neutral as it has passed the light (load) F) is the Load from the Micro If "A", "B" and "F" are connected to the micro and "E" is connected to Neutral then you can control the light with the Micro. If "D" is also connected to "Sense #1" on the micro then when the "Electronic Power Board" switches power on or off the micro will toggle the current state of the load. I just recorded a video with a magnification mirror in our bathroom which has a similar circuit. the original switch on the mirror had "on" and "off" settings. Now it toggles the micro from either state.

No problem. The reason I chose not to go with the micro was the operating temperature of "32° to 104°F (0° to 40°C)". So I did not believe I could achieve these values inside the unit, you may be in a different situation, but it would be really frustrating to rewire the unit and have it fail in the future. As a side note I had a lamplink in the kitchen to control cabinet lighting in the past and it fail presumably because it was getting too warm. Good luck!

If connected in another way the light can be controlled by both the micro and the manual control, however the manual control will now be a toggle instead of on and off. Only one light shown for simplicity

The following from https://developer.amazon.com/public/solutions/alexa/alexa-skills-kit/content/smart-home ''' Can I control devices other than lights and thermostats? The Smart Home Skill API currently supports extending Alexa’s built-in lighting and thermostat skills, covering natural language actions for these types of devices. While the intended use for the thermostat is for heating scenarios our developer partners can use the on/off/set and request capabilities for other types of sensors. As an example, you could enable “Alexa, turn on my fan?” What other features will you add to the Smart Home Skill API? We plan to expand the Smart Home Skill API to include more device types over time.. .......relay discovery and control commands from Alexa to a device control cloud ''' If I read this correctly Amazon still has control of the "actions" and will parse out the devices, so as of right now the only difference is thermostat (or "set" and possibly "up" and "down") actions for devices. but this will allow anyone to remove the phrase "ask" or "tell" from their Skills, but if the "ask" or "tell" is removed then you only have access to the Amazon set actions.

Looks like UD can now add thermostat control. Maybe Mobilinc can now remove the phrase "Ask Mobilinc".

Looking at the wiring diagram for your hood a (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/503112/Jenn-Air-Jxi8036ws.html?page=13#manual) you should be able to use either the inline or micro dimmers. However this may require dismounting the unit to gain access to the wires. If using the micro you would have to splice into the wires after they come out of the "Electronic Power Board". this will allow you to keep using the controls on the "Electronic User Interface". This may seem like the best solution but depending on how the hood is setup you may not have room to place the micro in a place which will not be affected by heat or grease, which can be dangerous. So you may have to run the wires to outside of the unit to a jbox. Edit, This may require more than one mico depending of power consumtion The option I chose was to splice into the wires after the "Electronic Power Board" and cap the end coming from the "Electronic Power Board" then run a new cord from the lights out of the unit, exiting in same location as the original power cord. Now there are 2 power cords, one for the fan and one for the lights. With this option you will lose control of the lights from the "Electronic User Interface". I chose this option as (unlike your setup) my hood is along the wall with cabinets which have cabinet lights, When the cabinet lights are turned on the range hood lights are also turned on.

Thought this was another freakin April fools post , But I like! Although the Echo Quick start Guide states "Echo works best when placed in a central location, at least eight inches from any walls"