Javi

Can't say no to looking at strange....code. Thanks!

I have noticed that my receivers do this if the front aux input is connected, then return to the previous source when disconnected, but I'm not sure how we would do this automatically.

While I had some free time the other day I visited the EventGhost forum and found this topic which may be relevant to helping us with indoor location: http://www.eventghost.net/forum/viewtopic.php?uid=20034&f=2&t=9139&start=0 The github project: https://github.com/schollz/find I have not had much free time lately to test, but it appears a new android app will be released soon: https://github.com/uncleashi/find-client-android Unfortunately apple users may not be able to use this for indoor location: https://www.internalpositioning.com/faq/#can-i-use-an-iphone

I tried many times but ultimately gave up as the signals where too erratic. I think BLE indoor location may work in a store or conference hall but I do not think it will work in a small home (or any home with walls, furniture, multiple levels.). I have had much better success reading wifi levels from 2 wifi range extenders ( http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Extender-Gigabit-Ethernet-EX6100/dp/B00HHRP11C/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464407440&sr=1-6&keywords=netgear+wifi+extender ) placed on opposite sides of my home,especially 5 GHz band, but ultimately not reliable all of the time. Can you explain your setup a little more? Maybe I will try this out again...

Thought I would chime in with a similar experience. If I sent a scene "on" command and a few of the lights in the scene did not turn on, it did not matter how many additional times I sent the scene "on" command it would not turn on the lights which where off. It would work if I sent the scene off command then the scene on command again, sometimes. I ended up just having the program turn on each device after the scene on command which would work. I found I had a malfunctioning device which was causing most of the errors, but the scene problems still happen from time to time so I have these programs also trigger the device along with the scene.

Francois, My brother has a PC running 24/7 at his home with chrome open and the chrome remote desktop extension. This way he can view his cameras without a static IP (or dyndns), by doing a remote desktop connection. The extension does not require port forwarding or a static IP. May be worth a try to if you can leave a PC (or windows tablet) running. There are chrome remote desktop apps for phones also. I believe Paul is correct as far as the portal goes.

Stu I think our confusion is between the different Micro "Switch Operation Modes". My diagram works for the default "Latching Mode". I used the "Switch" diagram by mistake, as I just copied the pic from the smart home website and not the manual.

This is incorrect, if you see in the video it does not matter the on or off state of the manual switch. The sense will only toggle the micro if the state (powered, not powered) is changed.

I know I am beating a dead horse but I think they need to focus on more "action words" and device recognition. And if we wanted this, we would just invite family over

Stu, I forgot to connect the wire where the switch used to be, but is should have been obvious, attached is the connected wire with letters for each wire. A) is line power, always powered B is Neutral C) is Neutral D) is load, which is switched on and off by the "Electronic Power Board" so this wire does NOT always have power, It is only powered when switched ON by the "Electronic Power Board" E) connects to Neutral as it has passed the light (load) F) is the Load from the Micro If "A", "B" and "F" are connected to the micro and "E" is connected to Neutral then you can control the light with the Micro. If "D" is also connected to "Sense #1" on the micro then when the "Electronic Power Board" switches power on or off the micro will toggle the current state of the load. I just recorded a video with a magnification mirror in our bathroom which has a similar circuit. the original switch on the mirror had "on" and "off" settings. Now it toggles the micro from either state.

No problem. The reason I chose not to go with the micro was the operating temperature of "32° to 104°F (0° to 40°C)". So I did not believe I could achieve these values inside the unit, you may be in a different situation, but it would be really frustrating to rewire the unit and have it fail in the future. As a side note I had a lamplink in the kitchen to control cabinet lighting in the past and it fail presumably because it was getting too warm. Good luck!

If connected in another way the light can be controlled by both the micro and the manual control, however the manual control will now be a toggle instead of on and off. Only one light shown for simplicity

The following from https://developer.amazon.com/public/solutions/alexa/alexa-skills-kit/content/smart-home ''' Can I control devices other than lights and thermostats? The Smart Home Skill API currently supports extending Alexa’s built-in lighting and thermostat skills, covering natural language actions for these types of devices. While the intended use for the thermostat is for heating scenarios our developer partners can use the on/off/set and request capabilities for other types of sensors. As an example, you could enable “Alexa, turn on my fan?” What other features will you add to the Smart Home Skill API? We plan to expand the Smart Home Skill API to include more device types over time.. .......relay discovery and control commands from Alexa to a device control cloud ''' If I read this correctly Amazon still has control of the "actions" and will parse out the devices, so as of right now the only difference is thermostat (or "set" and possibly "up" and "down") actions for devices. but this will allow anyone to remove the phrase "ask" or "tell" from their Skills, but if the "ask" or "tell" is removed then you only have access to the Amazon set actions.

Looks like UD can now add thermostat control. Maybe Mobilinc can now remove the phrase "Ask Mobilinc".

Looking at the wiring diagram for your hood a (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/503112/Jenn-Air-Jxi8036ws.html?page=13#manual) you should be able to use either the inline or micro dimmers. However this may require dismounting the unit to gain access to the wires. If using the micro you would have to splice into the wires after they come out of the "Electronic Power Board". this will allow you to keep using the controls on the "Electronic User Interface". This may seem like the best solution but depending on how the hood is setup you may not have room to place the micro in a place which will not be affected by heat or grease, which can be dangerous. So you may have to run the wires to outside of the unit to a jbox. Edit, This may require more than one mico depending of power consumtion The option I chose was to splice into the wires after the "Electronic Power Board" and cap the end coming from the "Electronic Power Board" then run a new cord from the lights out of the unit, exiting in same location as the original power cord. Now there are 2 power cords, one for the fan and one for the lights. With this option you will lose control of the lights from the "Electronic User Interface". I chose this option as (unlike your setup) my hood is along the wall with cabinets which have cabinet lights, When the cabinet lights are turned on the range hood lights are also turned on.

Thought this was another freakin April fools post , But I like! Although the Echo Quick start Guide states "Echo works best when placed in a central location, at least eight inches from any walls"

Unless you have an Amazon Device with the app I think this would be unlikely as I assume Apple or Google will not let Amazon tap into always listening features. As for a tap to say a command I think this will be coming to more devices as Amazon has released a version for the Pi, If amazon does not put it into their app I imagine it will only be a short time before someone converts the Pi version to other Platforms. As discussed in another topic, This is where amazon is falling short, In my (mediocre) app you can specify a default location for each device, however the way amazon is setup this would be a problem using the same account. I am assuming Amazon's voice recognition works similar to Google's Voice recognition, Google has a numerical value for confidence level of the command, this could be used to cancel "similar" commands picked up by multiple echos by only using the command with the highest confidence level and also adding the default location to the command if none is specified. All that said, I did receive a push back from some users (in the Domotics forum) who disliked the naming convention I implemented (Location-Device or room-device) as this was how I achieved chaining of commands. Users could remove the location requirement but I made it difficult in order to push the location-device naming convention which I believe is the correct way to name many devices in order to use natural language. Amazon could also fix this easily by giving names to (shopping) lists, such as "Grocery", "Hardware" or "My Shopping". Hopefully Amazon is working on these items. If not lets hope competition comes soon!

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?> <EventGhost Version="1700"> <Folder Name="ISY Examples" Expanded="True"> <Macro Name="Set ISY Global Variables" Expanded="True"> <Event Name="Main.OnInit" /> <Action Name="Set ISY Global Variables"> EventGhost.PythonScript(u'#SET YOUR ISY INFORMATION HERE\n\n#ISY USER NAME\neg.globals.isyusername = "Isy_Username_here"\n\n#ISY PASSWORD\neg.globals.isypassword = "Isy_Password_Here"\n\n#ISY IP ADDRESS\neg.globals.isyipaddress = "Isy_Ip_Address_Here"') </Action> </Macro> <Macro Name="Example Device On" Expanded="True"> <Action Name="Trigger device action"> EventGhost.PythonScript(u'import urllib\n\n#ENTER THE DEVICE ID BELOW IN THE FOLLOWING FORMAT "XX.XX.XX"\ndeviceid = "22.89.3A"\n#ENTER THE DEVICE SUB ID BELOW. THIS IS USUALLY "1", EXEPT FOR DEVICES WHICH HAVE MORE THAN ONE ITEM TO CONTROL LIKE A KEYPAD OR FAN MODULE\ndevicesubid = "1"\n#ENTER THE COMMAND BELOW. ON IS "DON", OF IS "DOF", ON LEVEL (DIM/BRIGHTEN) IS "DON/1" THROUGH "DON/255"\ndevicecommand = "DON"\n\n\n#DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE\n\ndeviceid = deviceid + "." + devicesubid\ndeviceid = deviceid.replace(".", "%20")\nurl = "http://" + eg.globals.isyusername + ":" + eg.globals.isypassword + "@" + eg.globals.isyipaddress + "/rest/nodes/" + deviceid + "/cmd/" + devicecommand\n\n#THIS WILL SEND THE COMMAND\nurllib.urlopen(url)\n\n') </Action> </Macro> <Macro Name="Example Request device status" Expanded="True"> <Action Name="Request Device Status"> EventGhost.PythonScript(u'import urllib\n#import xml.etree\nfrom xml.etree import ElementTree as ET\n\n\n#ENTER THE DEVICE ID BELOW IN THE FOLLOWING FORMAT "XX.XX.XX"\ndeviceid = "22.89.3A"\n\n#ENTER THE DEVICE SUB ID BELOW. THIS IS USUALLY "1", EXEPT FOR DEVICES WHICH HAVE MORE THAN ONE ITEM TO CONTROL LIKE A KEYPAD OR FAN MODULE\ndevicesubid = "1"\n\n\n\n#DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING UNTIL EXEPT IN THE IF OR ELSE STATEMENT BELOW\ndeviceid = deviceid + "." + devicesubid\ndeviceid = deviceid.replace(".", "%20")\nurl = "http://" + eg.globals.isyusername + ":" + eg.globals.isypassword + "@" + eg.globals.isyipaddress + "/rest/status/" + deviceid\n\n\n#--------This is the XML File---------\n#<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>\n\n#-<properties>\n\n#<property uom="%/on/off" formatted="Off" value="0" id="ST"/>\n\n#</properties>\n#---------That was the XML File------------\n\n\nresponse = urllib.urlopen(url)\n\nstatus = response.read()\n#"ET" is short for ElementTree as "from xml.etree import ElementTree as ET is above\nstatus = ET.fromstring(status)\nstatus = status.find(\'property\')\nstatus = status.attrib[\'value\']\nstatus = int(float(status))\n\nif status == 0:\n print "Device is OFF"\nelse:\n print "Device is ON"\n') </Action> </Macro> </Folder> </EventGhost> Copy and paste this into your EventGhost Tree You will need to edit the macro "Set ISY Global Variables" with your ISY username, password, and ip_address. Then save the script, then save the EventGhost file! This script will be triggered on startup from now on but you will need to Execute the macro at least one time to set the variables after you update the username, password ext. unless you restart eventghost. I have included 2 example macros with python scripts for device status and device actions, you just need to change the device IDs and Actions (if applicable). I left detailed notes in the examples. Best, Javier

I use the Broadcaster plugin for EventGhost to receive messages from the ISY and it works very well. I use the 255.255.255.255 network broadcast so I can get messages on my laptop or PC if they are on as well as send commands to the always on windows tablet. I also use a python script to send EventGhost messages to the ISY via rest. ISY Network Resources udp Host:EG_Ip_Address(or 255.255.255.255 for network broadcast) Port: 33333 Timeout: 500 Mode: Raw Text I have noticed EG will stop working a few times a year so I have EG send an event to the ISY which triggers a program with a wait task. If the task is not restarted by EG I will get a text message saying EG is down so I know the tablet needs to be rebooted. I also have EG check to see which A\V devices are ON (via ISY rest) in a given room when a voice command asks for "Volume UP" or "Down" so the correct device volume is raised/lowered without needing to specify a device. If receiver is on turn up the receiver volume if the receiver is off turn up the TV volume.

The app (IP Cam Viewer Pro) has a separate setup for each camera. So making a group of cameras with direct IP addresses (which change) is not a quick task as there are 12 individual cameras. These cameras are not connected to the ISY. I Have a Tasker created app which checks the network then launches a group of cameras via intent based on the network (home or not at home). My wife only has to touch the app icon and the correct group of cameras launches automatically. She does not know what to do when the group of cameras with the subdomain.dynhost.com address does not work, and according to our conversation while on vacation, has no interest in learning about how IP addresses work. It would be easy for me to check the dynhost and if it doesn't respond after a given amount of time, then launch a group of cameras with another host (such as my.isy.io) when not on the home network. The cameras have the same username, password and port but are on different channels. So my question is: Can the ISY portal be used as an IP forwarding service for my cameras in the same way as the dyndns.com forwarding?

My surveillance app triggers groups of cameras based on my network connection (home/not at home) for a fast response time. The "not at home" group is routed through dyn.com but does not always update (from router) in a timely manner. This was really frustrating while on vacation last week and my wife could not check the cameras to see if our kids where sleeping and began to worry. The ISY was responding to commands through the portal but not through dyn.com so I was able to find our (new) i.p address on my.isy.io, to look at each camera separately but it took too much work. This seems to happen frequently with dyn.com but this is the first time it has almost ruined a good time. Anyway is there a way to use the portal as an ip forwarding service as a backup for dyn.com?

I use a $50 windows tablet running EventGhost which is connected to a USB-Uirt and with the Audio jack connected to the main receiver. The USB-Uirt sends the Deseret ON command to the receiver and then switches it to the correct audio inputs and outputs and then says the command via Microsoft Speech API (eventghost plugin). ISY>Networking>udp://255.255.255.255:33333>Raw>Body = Home Water Leak (Sent to 255.255.255.255 as these commands will now be pickup by my main PC also) Received by Broadcaster plugin in EventGhost I live in an old home and have occasional water backups, the ISY will send text msg to our phones flash the lights in the bathrooms and announce the command over the receiver and my main computer if it is on. This USB uirt is also connected to a whole home IR system which controls the IR for the entire home...Not bad for $100 (tablet and USB Uirt) Also have a display emulator connected to the micro HDMI port so the tablet screen remains off

Nice work! I have not purchased an ECHO as I think being able to access the entire voice command is the only way I could use it without it feeling like a toy. I wish Amazon would just let us have access to the command without going though everything you had to do. Anyway, I wanted to suggest a few things for your tasker setup. I have setup a project (in the tasker section of this forum) that will eliminate the need for (start music|play music|turn on music) or (tv|t.v.|t. v.) and use a single regex with a list of your devices, actions, and locations. This will also give you the ability to say things naturally and chained together for example "Turn on the kitchen lights" or "Turn the kitchen lights on" and chain commands with chains linked to actions and devices for example "turn on the lights and the tv" and "turn off the kitchen, dining room, and living room lights". It has a default room option as well . I have posted the tasker xml to github but have also created an app, it would not be hard to add AutoRemote as a trigger for the project. Also the same program can be written in python to use in EventGhost...It would probably take me a couple of hours to write if I leave out the UI of the Android app. So you could setup the command links with the android UI then copy the backup from Android to EventGhost, This way you could eliminate one step which would help with latency and eliminate another possible point of failure. I'm curious, can you get the same info from the amazon app on your android device? If so, Joao may be able to add this to AutoVoice (or another AutoApp) as AutoVoice is essentially reading the screen of the Google Now Voice Search Box, and I'm Sure it would not be hard to have it read the screen of an Amazon app.

Yes, I use one without the load connected for the bathroom fan. The switch on-level leds act as a countdown timer via ISY program. I also added a switch without load in the living room so we would have switches at all entryways.

Ok, I think I found the problem. I replaced what I think is a malfunctioning ApplianceLink with a LampLink and changed its location in the kitchen, it may have been getting too hot in the previous location. This scene now works fine. I am wondering if I have another bad device in the lawn lights scene, the keypad (not directly wired to devices) used to manually turn the scene on/off has a faint buzzing sound. I'll change the scene so it is controlled by another keypad to see if the problem persists. Also I was at Wal-Mart this week and they had a clearance on the Insteon Starter Kit ( http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2244-234-starter-kit.html) for $60. It included the Insteon Hub, and 2 LampLinks, its a great deal for 2 LampLinks...Anyone know what I could do with the Hub?