randyth

From the Brilliant FAQ: NOTE: This does not mean they have a public API (they do not) so their Controller (which I largely ignore) is not something you could readily hack. Interestingly, however, you can SSH into their Controllers. Hmm... Again, I am only using Brilliant for their Dimmer switches. The purchase of the Controller/Mothership/hub was a necessary evil. I do not every plan to make it the brains of my system. I have Polisy for that.

Bluetooth and HomeKit are local technologies that do not require the cloud/Internet. So, yes, HA can turn on and off the lights connected to my Brilliant Dimmer switches without it. I have disconnected from the Internet and verified this. As with the Insteon switches I'm replacing, I don't plan to use Brilliant switches for anything other than lighting so I can't speak to LAN support for weather stations and time servers. I use Polisy and/or HA handle these functions.

Thankfully, I only use the Brilliant Dimmer switches to control my lights, not any speakers or cameras. And as a light switch, I think they rock. I do not use Brilliant as my home automation hub. That is left to Polisy + HA.

Interesting. If a HomeKit chip could be utilized by Polisy via a USB device, I would happily pay for such an addon. Of course, with all UDI has going on right now, I assume investigating such a thing is way way down the priority list. Note that I am only using HA's HomeKit Controller integration to control my Brilliant devices. There is another integration that allows you to also expose HA devices as HomeKit devices, but I have no experience with that.

Barring the unlikely release of a Brilliant API, a HomeKit node server would also allow ISY to control Brilliant switches. But, I understand that is prohibitively expensive to implement due to licensing fees.

Update: After a few months of use, I am sold on Brilliant Dimmers and have been steadily replacing my dead or dying Insteon switches with them. To "automate" Brilliant Dimmers, I use Home Assistant (HA) via its excellent HomeKit integration (I largely ignore the "controller" features of the Brilliant Control itself). HA also works well with Polisy, so it acts as the glue connecting the two technologies. Pros Every switch has a built-in motion sensor if you want lights/scenes to turn on automatically No mechanical parts to wear out -- it's touch sensitive Dimming action, by sliding finger along groove, is smooth and responsive You can just whack (with back of hand, elbow, finger, forehead, whatever) the switch to turn on/off Remembers last dim level when turning on Double-whack switch to trigger a "scene" Supports Hue lights by leaving power on to fixture while sending on/off and dim commands Bluetooth-based mesh connectivity (in my household at least) appears rock solid Works with Alexa and Google Home Not unreasonably priced if purchased in lots of 3 or 10 (around $60 per switch) Cons Requires the purchase of a ~$400 Brilliant Control (which also acts as a switch, BTW) before you can install any ~$60 dimmer switches. Think of the Control as an in-wall touch-screen based hub. No way to set a default dim level -- the last level you used becomes the new "default" when turning on a light You must create a free cloud account with Brilliant. However, once installed and setup, the switches do not require the Internet to operate. I am not a fan of the Brilliant app, although it does allow me to monitor and control my home remotely If Brilliant goes Instegone, the switches would likely keep working (I hope!) but you probably wouldn't be able to reconfigure them and the app will most certainly stop working Worst of all, Brilliant Dimmers don't work natively with ISY

Jeez, maybe I need to dust off my ISYPro and PLM and put them up for sale! Though I really want to keep my spare PLM for a while.

Those variables were set up as either Motion Sensors or Contact Sensors in the Portal. In any case, I'm sure Michel is correct that you just need to wait a while for the logjam to clear.

I've never found motion or door sensors a reliable way to trigger Alexa Routines. For this reason, I've relied on skills such as Voice Monkey or Virtual Buttons which use "doorbell" events to get Alexa to react.

Unsure. I got burned by that and the PGC Ring node server has never fully recovered for me since. I'm afraid you'll have to open a ticket with UDI to resolve this.

You might be interested in this thread: First thing to try is check to see if you set a "preferred ISY" in your Portal settings and, if so, make it point to your Polisy. If that doesn't do the trick, you'll have to enter a ticket to possibly get your Portal account reset.

In case anyone is wondering, it appears my issues were largely caused by deleting my old 994i ISY from the Portal without also going to the Portal's My Profile menu and changing the "My preferred ISY" option to specify the Polisy that took the 994i's place. (I had completely forgotten there was a "preferred ISY" option.) Doing the above made both PGC and the PGC Ring NS mad, even though the Ring NS was already pointing to and working with my Polisy (all node servers were removed from my 994i before I unplugged it). So now you know. Don't you feel better? I do.

Is Polyglot Cloud (PGC) still having problems? Trying to go to the PGC Dashboard results in a never-ending loading screen for me.

@apostolakisl Glad you are finding Sense useful. The dryer idea is a good one. It's one of the devices Sense was able to accurately detect in my household.

I vote do it in a program. I don't believe scenes were designed for such logic.

Please do let us know how it works out for you. I'm interested in what your experience with Sense is like.

My 994i is now officially free of all devices/programs/resources/life-goals -- replaced by Polisy. And yet, I am somehow hesitant to "pull the plug" on this old friend. Sigh.

I installed a Sense monitor in mid 2018. It was fun at first (data is fun!), though I can't say it's been a practical purchase for me. Overall, I've grown to completely ignore it. Its most annoying feature is that it keeps finding new "Heat" devices that are impossible for me to determine what the heck device it thinks it found. This is especially frustrating when these ghost devices often never show up in any Sense graph post-discovery (how am I supposed to figure out what the new Heat device is when the new Heat device never turns on?). I get the fact that identifying devices by their powerline signature is hard. Take a dishwasher, for example. It has a heating element (which cycles on and off at seemingly random intervals) and a pump (which also cycles on and off seemingly randomly). So, the Sense has trouble determining if such appliances are two devices or one. Sense lets you merge devices in case something like a dishwasher shows up as both a Heat device and a Motor, but whenever I use this feature I am usually just guessing. Heat devices are especially tough as they are slaves to their thermostats -- constantly turning on and off -- and likely have very similar powerline signatures. Sense often confuses my coffee maker with the stove and vice versa. Things Sense has reliably detected in my household are my main TV system, garage door opener, sump pump, microwave, and the fan on my HVAC system. I also does a great job of tracking my overall energy use. It agrees with my utility bill every month. I tried the Sense node server a while back and could not find a practical use for it, especially since I would not trust Sense to accurately let me know when a device had turned on or off. If you really have a device or three you want to track, put a dedicated energy monitor on it. It is amazing how common this feature is on smart switches these days, such as the Zooz Power Switch. You'll get more accurate results. If you want to see great graphs on your overall household power usage, go with Sense.

I don't use Shelly's Cloud either, but avoiding the cloud doesn't help with the need to power cycle these devices now and then. It's probably only once every three months on average for my household, which didn't seem too bad at first but has slowly become quite annoying. I have several similar IoT devices (like an MHCOZY for my doorbell) that have never needed to be power-cycled to reconnect to my LAN. There are many comments about this problem on Shelly's Facebook Support group. I do love their i3 and i4 devices. Using an i3 I turned an antique knife switch into a (safe low-voltage) wall switch for one of my lights. It simply sends a REST command to my ISY which turns on a LampLinc. Very cool.

I went down the Shelly rabbit hole a while back. I have almost 10 of the first-generation Shellys installed for things like my gas fireplace, house vent, bathroom fans, and so on. While I am not unhappy with them, I do have some caveats: They have to be power cycled if they lose Wi-Fi. My Wi-Fi/Internet is pretty solid, but it does drop out now and then (I blame Comcast). This is a real pain, especially if you install something like a Shelly 1 inside a switchbox. Your luck here may be better. You're not going to save any money building your own "smart" switches with Shelly when compared with an off-the-shelf Z-Wave switch. None of the newer Shelly devices are UL certified.

Probably, but I honestly can't remember well enough to say.

This particular one was wired to the load in a 4-way switch setup, working solely as a slave for years. I just learned to ignore it, since "switching" it did nothing. I finally ripped it and turned it into the above. I must have five of these 1-gang box + extension cord + flaky Insteon switch "LampLincs" in use around my house now.

Tip #1: If your Insteon wall switch is merely mechanically broken (hitting the switch doesn't do anything but ISY can still control it), turn it into an ugly LampLinc...

Many of my Insteon switches have become dumb all on their own -- no replacement required!

I think you are having trouble because you skipped the "SSL Error 'ee key too small'" step mentioned above. So, please try following these instructions and see if that helps: https://github.com/UniversalDevicesInc/polyglot-v2#ssl-error-ee-key-too-small