lilyoyo1

Don't listen to Westom. He's a troll that goes around doing copy and paste jobs to act like he knows something (look at his responses to me). Go with your whole home surge protector and you'll be ok. Don't get me wrong, grounding matters but at this point the cost to check and potentially redo your grounding is a serious cost. Surge protection is a3 step thing. One at the meter, whole whole and then local such as the ones with power strips and outlets. Mine was installed at the meter when the house was built. Your utility company may or may not allow them so I wouldn't worry about it touch. The others you can control so I would focus on that part.

Another copy and paste job. Trolling sure has seen better days. To bad you don't have any original thoughts. At least change things up some. Ok...Thank you

This is why I said you should try both approaches to see what works best for you. Both styles are pretty easy if you're accustomed to it. I feel the opposite in that scenes are easier to manage. Overall there is a time and place for both ways as there are pros and cons. For me, I don't want to depend on my ISY. If you're too heavy into programming, you are at the mercy of the isy. Scenes will always work.

That is true what you say. However some people like having separate on/off buttons. I personally don't as I like to make use of all my buttons for different tasks but I understand that desire.

All of this is a moot point. The op just wants a recommendation on whole house surge protectors. If he were building a house, grounding and all that information would matter more. Also, here is a link to where you copied and pasted from so others know the full story https://boards.fool.com/i-am-rather-shocked-most-only-want-to-argue-rare-33993346.aspx

I wouldn't have done it that way but if it works for you then that's what matters. There's no right or wrong way. I don't use any of the button groupings feature nor the non toggle modes.

My response was to the op and what he said he wanted. Routines would help him achieve his stated goals at this time. Hopefully in the future the portal could be updated to allow for finer control.

There is no right or wrong way to program the isy. You have those such as myself that prefer scenes enhanced by programs and others that prefer programs over scenes for some crazy reason @larryllix. In the end both ways work and it comes down to user preference. I'm always hesitant to tell a newbie how to program because it doesn't help them learn the nuances to the isy. The reasons as to why a scene is used over a program and vice versa. While it may save time for you, the knowledge needed simply isn't gained. It's much better for you to try different ways post what you've come up with (once it's close just not close enough) and let others help you correct it. That method will give you a better understanding of the hows and whys long term. In regards to your actual questions, anything can be programed or controlled by a scene. As stated earlier it's user preference and there is no right or wrong way: only does it work!!?? You can activate a program for a scene based off the controlling device being turned on or off. My approach to programming and method I use is to start with my overall goal. What am I trying to accomplish??? How does that tie into other things I'm doing today and I may do tomorrow. For example, some scenes are created directly with my devices in a controller/responder setup. This allows my devices to talk to my lights without the isy. They'll still have programs asso6with them but remove the isy and they'll still work. Others may be added to a scene with all devices as a responder. This requires the isy to send the command to the scene when a button is pressed but I have additional capabilities added as I can now do a double tap for secondary actions with the same button. My relax scene does this. A single press sets the mood. A double press sets the mood with music added. If I were programming your setup, I would create scenes and add all of the buttons to each scene. A scene for A button, B button, C button, and D button. I would add the device that is attached to the fan to each button so that it turns on when I hit one of those buttons. I would also add the other buttons to that scene and set them to off. It would look like this: A-controller B-responder- off C- responder- off D- responder-off 2477s- On Scene2 A-responder-off B- controller C- responder- off D- responder- off 2477s- On You'll repeat the same for Buttons C and D. What this does is turns the other buttons whenever one is pressed. I would then write a program that says If control Button A (or any other button) is switched on Then stop program button B, C, D Wait 30 minutes Set scene Fan A off The programs for each button would be the same If control Button B is switched on Then stop program button A, C, D Wait 60 minutes Set scene Fan B off There are other considerations at play for any situation. That's where thinking through everything comes into play. However this will get you started

The red let's you know that it did not receive a response for a linked device.

I still use standard surge protectors on my electronics. Never thought about whole home until I started using automation. I figured if I'm going to protect a tv why wouldn't I protect switches I spent money on as well.

I used to have that one as well. It served me well over the years. After reading about the Eaton I swapped them out a couple months ago

There's an additional module that you can get for it that does. I personally don't ever use it though

This is what I use on installs now. I used to use leviton but switched over. I still use a leviton surge protector on my meter. https://www.amazon.com/CHSPT2ULTRA-Ultimate-Protection-Length-Height/dp/B01AQAKRSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1551131394&sr=8-1&keywords=EATON+CHSPT2ULTRA

That model is sold in Home Depot and Lowe's. You may be able to order it online from them. Since your fan controls are all upstairs and embedded, most likely you will need additional devices Aeotec has plug in repeaters. Instead of using that, I would recommend a couple of devices that will allow for dual use such as plug in lamp or dimmer modules.

Any zwave lock would work. All of the major players such as Yale, Schlage, kwikset, and Baldwin make them. 4 devices may be enough for your zwave mesh but that depends on the devices you have, their capabilities, and locations. Since you didn't give any of that information we can't really help on that. Your repeating devices (at least the one that directly talks to your locks) needs to support beaming otherwise it will not work properly with locks. They all pretty much operate the same so it comes down to personal style. Schlage is known to be the most secure while kwikset is the least. For me, all are more about convenience over security

As to a Google routine and you can say open the blinds

I would have the switch disable the motion sensor when manually turned on. When you manually turn off the light, include a wait before re-enabling the motion sensor. I prefer separate programs but it can be done in 1. This allows time to get out of the bathroom before the lights turn on If switch A is switched on And switch A is not switched off Then disable motion program Or else wait 30 seconds enable motion program The downside of programming the way you are is people needing to remember different caveats just to lose the bathroom. This can cause a bigger headaches then it's worth.

I do live in a hot/humid place but leave mine off until I utilize the room

This part would be personal preference. I personally don't mind it.

Create a second program If control fan is switched off Then disable fan program Wait 1 hr enable program

I'd say 95% (if not more)of my setup is scene based ( @larryllixfavorite setup. Lol). All you're doing is creating a program that activates based off your system. You can do this based on control (manual) or status. I prefer status but that choice is on you. I use status just in case I go out during the day. Since my lights are activated based on programs, hitting a button or unlocking the door while it's daylight doesn't turn on lights. Once the sun goes down, everything turns on accordingly. The same applies with the motion sensors. In my case, I have a program for my back yard that says something like: If status back door is unlocked or Patio relax or patio party is not off Then disable motion program As I stated previously, my offs are always kept separate so I also enable the program should the buttons be off and door is locked.

I do my setup differently. My motion program is separate from everything I do. Whether it's floodlights or patio, my lights turn on/off based on motion. My motion off programs are also separately programmed. This allows me more leeway with programming With that said, anything I initiate in order to be outside simply disables my motion program. Unlock the back door, the light turns on and my motion program automatically disables. It gets re-enabled when I either manually turn off the light, lock the door back, or auto times out. The same goes for any of my outdoor scenes. By doing it this way, I don't have to track light states and such

You can increase links by decreasing scenes and using programs instead. One thing that I do is create scenes with all responders then have the controller activate that scene via a program. This allows me to initiate double taps as well as save a few links. I also create a single scene for each room. This allows me to use that one scene for multiple things such as all on/off,y away scenes, and good night. I also don't have every insteon device in my isy. All my outlets are smart outlets. In regards to my insteon outlets, only the ones actively used are added to my isy. The rest are simply there until needed. I know some people don't manage every device such as 3way Hall lights. They'll link them outside of the isy since they don't have any use in the isy for them. I'm not one of them as any device I use the isy does something with it. I've also invested in other technologies as well which takes some burden off the plm. For example, all lamps use hue bulbs. Those are controlled with network resources. I also use zwave outlets and sensors which saves additional plm space since those do not use the plm either.

You're pushing against the Mac that the plm holds

What device is showing (35.6f.26)