lilyoyo1

When you attempted the factory reset did you hold the button in until the buzzing stopped (about 10 sec.). I know it sounds crazy asking but many people do it improperly. Another thing is to make sure it's a 2477d and not a 2477s

In my opinion it is

I've been testing the aeotech smartswitch 6 and it's been working really well in regards to showing usage.

I'm on the other side of the fence. While zwave has some great products, the platform on a whole is too fractured for me to wholely support. Until they truly catch up to Insteon when it comes to core features, speed, and ease of use, I can't pick them over Insteon. Insteon has its issues. I do agree that they do need to add more to their devices. They need to figure out the plm issue (though I think it's blamed too much). Even then, after spending more on Valentine's day chocolate's than what a plm costs, what's buying a new one 3-4 years from now in order to accomplish what I have? I think Insteon is much easier to get started with while learning automation as well as having better looking & feeling switches. Choose the wrong zwave product and a person can be set back for years (someone without the financial means to correct).

I can't really say zwave is innovating; when for the most part, all they are doing is catching up to the core benefits of insteon. With that said, there is no perfect system or controller. No single controller will do all that you want (this includes Creston, Control4, Savant, etc. Each and everyone of them has a downside. Like Stusviews, I've found using insteon and zwave together gives me the best of both worlds. Where I want color changing lights, hue fills that need. Everything is tied into RTI for A/V.From past experience, I've learned that everything does not need to be automated. Instead of jumping on every technology out there (that does the exact same things others do), I focused on core technologies that works best with the system i have!

At the very basic level simply add your existing program to a folder that says: If time is from sunset to 12am and status overhead lights are off Then allow this program to run

What's plugged into the iolinc? It may be the controlled device causing issues. That's why it works when off but not when on. Disconnect what you are controlling from power and see if communication improves

That is true. However when I simply ran things a had devices that didn't respond. Once I put a wait in there all responded properly which is what mattered most. The wait actually gives it a cool effect

I have alot of devices and rooms so I break them up. Instead of having 1 huge scene get triggered, I have 5 smaller scenes. My foyer, laundry, mudroom, hallways, outdoor LR and spare baths is part of 1 scene. The livingroom, dining, breakfast nook and kitchen is part of another. Media room, study, and family room is the 3rd zone. The spare bedrooms are part of zone 4 and finally my master bedroom is its own zone. When I leave the house (whether through front door or garage) I can hit my away button which then triggers each zone 1 at a time. I have a 2 second wait between each one triggering as I have found it decreased the likelihood of something not triggering. (There's more details but those are unique to my setup) By setting up like this, the individual devices can go into a scene and behave how I want. I can turn the scene "on" and set devices to whatever level I want (including off) or simply turn the whole scene "off". Hitting my goodnight button in the family room automatically triggers the hall lights to turn on as well as the kitchen. This allows someone to grab a drink/snack before heading to bed. There's a 5 minute wait added which then shuts down everything once done. I can also DBL tap my goodnight button which then sets my bedroom up the way I like. There's much more detail to my setup but that stuff is irrelevant since it's geared towards my lifestyle. However by creating a few zones I'm able to control multiple things with different programs without having to set up additional scenes.

The OP didnt want a controller not me. Our setup has similarities to one another.

For the few remotes that I have, I use the 4 button remotes. I use programs instead of scenes. Doing it this way, allows me to double the number of functions from a single remote. I also still keep the individual on/off capability regardless of how lights are controlled. For example; i have beside lamps next to my bed. A single tap from either remote will turn on the individual lamp. A dbl tap will turn on both lamps. Hitting the off button will turn them off. Doing it this way ensures the button press (stays in sync in a round about way) always work whether my lights are turned on automatically, via keypad, app, keypad etc.

When it comes to all off/on type scenes, it is best to have some type of manual control over it. This way it only runs when you want it to. Its one thing if you want it to run in the middle of the night when you are certain you want things off, its another to have it run during the early evening when you need it most. For example, all of my lights will automatically turn off after 1am as I am most likely in bed at that time. Even though I have motion sensors everywhere and different programs running to turn off lights, this is done as a backup should there be a glitch in the system. Should a light be turned on after that time, the system will automatically turn it off after 30 minutes should it be left on.

There really is no wrong way of creating an all on/off. The best way is one that works for your lifestyle and situation. For example, I have a lot of devices so I break mine down into zones (or groups). I add them to different scenes as responders and then create a program that runs anytime I hit the corresponding button. This allows me to easily set up programs whether its for my goodnight, away, or emergency scenes.

I wasn't say they would stop working. That applies to every company. My point was in reference to replacement devices. If any company should go out of business and extra devices come off the market, you would be switching anyway. This actually drives my point even further. Insteon has more devices on the market which increases the likelihood of having extra for years over a smaller company such as homeseer.

Zwave association does allow for direct communication. However, insteon devices communicates faster and allows for communication between more devices (and different device types). The whole "if insteon goes out of business" is played out. If homeseer goes out of business you'd be in the same place; needing to replace your devices. That applies to any company since most people only use 1 type of switch (mixing different looking switches only looks tacky as hell). As you stated "who knows what will be around in a few years". The fact is, switches will still work and a person could find replacements until the remodeled or wanted something different anyway. This applies to insteon, jasco, homeseer, leviton, fibaro, etc.

Personally, I would use insteon for lighting and Zwave for everything else. I definitely would not mix the 2 for lighting control as that will introduce a delay into your lights operation. With that said, it is definitely doable. You just have to decide whether the delay is worth it or not. I personally prefer Insteon for my lights. The reason being is should my ISY fail, all of my lights will still work natively. I also don't like the delay (no more than a second). The speed at which insteon devices communicates between each other still can't be match by zwave either. I always get a laugh when I hear companies talk about how insteon is behind zwave is doing great things and innovative. The fact is zwave does have some great devices as do insteon. The difference between insteon and Zwave is that zwave is just now adding the basic features for automation that insteon has had for years. Due to the open nature of zwave there are still many issues with communication between all still. Something that you don't have to worry about with insteon. Neither protocol is perfect. By choosing the ISY w/zwave, you've already picked the most important piece. As stated earlier, I would start with insteon for lights and Zwave for everything else. In my house, I use zwave motion sensors, outlets, and locks. The switches are all insteon.

If your scene is set at a particular ramp rate, the lights will ramp up together at the same time. The difference between led bulbs can effect how quickly they ramp which may be what you are seeing. If the lights are at different levels there is no way to set them to the same level just by holding the button. You would need to create a scene that takes them to a preset level. That way regardless of where they are set at, they all turn to the preset level when you hit that button.

There are ways around using the portal if you don't want to subscribe. The difference is you do the work instead of UDI

Alot of people dont realize this but automation is an investment of sorts. You have to be willing to spend to accomplish what you are going for otherwise its a waste of time and money.

Regardless of the path you choose, you will need to pay for something. While the portal is a subcription, it will allow you to achieve what you are trying to do. It is also the most cost effective and easiest path to accomplish that. Your only other alternatives would be to replace your x10 with Insteon at which point you could use the hub2 (most costly and time consuming). You could also set up Alexa control yourself without using the portal. You would still need to purchase the network module and it is time consuming. You would also need the technical know how to make it work.

He doesnt want to pay for the portal

In my old place, I tapped into the power of my smoke detector to power my insteon outlets (controlled wireless cameras) without any issues. It may have been a one time thing. I would keep an eye on things (especially since you weren't there) just to be certain it wasn't a false alarm to something else

What is specifically happening? All of my fibaro sensors are working without issue in 5.11b

I would create a scene and drop all devices into the scene as responders. That way it simply shuts down the bathroom. If control motion is switched off And control motion is not switched on Wait 10 min. Set scene bathroom off