lilyoyo1

Did you do it to the individual devices in the scene itself?

At some point I say get an electrician. Is the money you save worth all the time taken? The guys on these forums are great but at some point, for your safety and piece of mind, you're better off letting a person on site who knows electricity (as previously mentioned) vs assuming things

That is incorrect. All insteon communication goes through the plm. The ISY only processes the information

Does your scenes work when triggered directly by your ISY? Is it the same devices failing to be triggered each time? What kind of devices are they? The more information given, the better help we can be

Most likely noise from the bulbs are the culprit

I agree with Larryllix except for me personally, I don't leave nor show complex parts. I learned that lesson after I sold my first house with Insteon back in the houselinc days. When I sold my last house, I only showed them scene controlled items. I avoided discussing anything to do with programs and the ISY. While this next piece of advice doesn't help you now, one thing I learned and a practice that I still follow is to make a couple of backups when I first get started. The first order of business is to add all the devices into the ISY and name them. Once done I create a backup of it and call it my clean slate. That way if I ever want/need to factory reset whole system I can easily start over without having to add everything back to it. My next backup consists of critical links such as multi way switches and switch controlled outlets. For example, I use line voltage strip lights for my ceilings in my dining room and bedroom closets. These lights are controlled by plug in dimmers (hidden and for ease of replacement). While the ISY controls all of these, it's not needed for them to work. Same with my lamps. All of my lamps use hue bulbs. However they are plugged into controlled outlets. Should I sell my place, I can replace the bulbs with standard bulbs (or leave them) and it'll be a regular light controlled by my keypad. Simply running the backup that has the critical links stored allows me to quickly convert my home into a "smarthome ready" place without having to worry about programming issues etc.

There was one venstar model that did not require an adapter as it had the board built in. I believe it was the 2491t1e. Something of that nature

Is this your only insteon device? Did you power up your on and plug it into the ISY before powering up your Isy? What message are you getting? If you're using the device id, you don't have to hold down the set button

I agree. While a person may eventually figure things out, sometimes it's best to let an electrician do things.

I would've turned it on/off prior to adding it back to the ISY once it was factory reset to see if it was still talking to the other device. That way if there was a stray command somewhere it could help narrow down the culprit

When you factory reset the devices, did you test them prior to adding them back to the ISY?

If the lights are too expensive to try other alternatives, then the relay would be your only option along with manual control as you stated in the beginning.

Can you use a different transformer with them? I know some dimmable transformers work really well with Insteon such as magnitude

The firmware on that link was 5 versions ago. The hub automatically updates so the likelihood of someone still using the older firmware at this point is small

There are too many variables to say a definitive 30 foot range or 90 degrees. You can have walls in the way, furniture, vents, angle, battery life, etc. all effecting its performance. The information smarthome or anyone gives you will always be open ended due to differing environments. Now that you have a baseline on the motion sensors range, the best thing to do is try one to see how well it works in your environment.

Did you read the product page on the motion sensor on smarthome's website? The information your asking for is right there

Do a heal after you add and install the additional items. This way the proper routing can be assigned.

I keep my use of voice commands very simple and very low. My "ON" commands turn on the lights that I use 90% for a given room and my "OFF" commands will turn off the whole room regardless of what scene is on. During the day/evening, I use keypads for most operations as I have a lot of windows so lights does not necessarily need to be used. Besides, the system doesn't know whether I want to relax, have a super bright room, or levels slightly lower. Late at night, automation kicks in. My motion sensors will automatically turn lights on for me at low levels (which I can over ride if needed for more lighting). Some areas are always automed such as bathrooms that do not have a window and closets.

If the synchronize nodes doesn't work then I'd remove and then re-add. I don't know why they disappeared. Maybe the prices of adding another controller erased the links. I've never experienced that.

I dont think the trane can be added as it's a hub by itself. It allows you to add zwave devices and control those. I believe trane has it locked to the nexia line.

You'd be in the same boat with that one as well. The 2441th is still rf only.

All of my rooms have all on/off commands. I found it better to write a program controlling those scenes 1 at a time to achieve all on/off vs. 1 large scene.

I'm with everyone else on using voice control to open/unlock stuff. Why bother! Anyone that I would open the door by voice for already has their own code to my place so they can get in. While I do value convenience and take a risk/reward outlook when it comes to security I feel voice control over access control devices goes to far.

I think you're making a sound decision by going with the ISY. I would focus my technologies on Insteon and zwave. This will allow native control of your devices should something ever happen to your Isy. It's tempting to use a multitude of other devices such as your to link module via network resources but I would limit the use of non native devices that need network resources or polyglot to non critical devices such as your lights strips. UDI is supposed to be coming out with an accessory module with polyglot preconfigured which could save you a lot of work trying to figure things out. I'm not sure when it will be released but I think it's worth waiting for.

Either would work. Personally I'd go with the inlinelinc that way each device is completely independent of one another. Should one go bad, I'm only replacing/reprogramming that one unit vs 2. Minor detail that really doesn't matter. I'm assuming it will also be installed where it can't be seen. If it were visible, I would definitely go with the inlinelinc since I don't like wall warts.