lilyoyo1

No projected date. To be honest there will always be beta firmware. A new device gets released UDI will push a beta out to support it. Personally you're better off upgrading now then later. The more they add and change the harder it may become too upgrade later. This is especially so as you add more devices and programs. It's easier to grow with the system than have a fully matured system and adapt.

It can be added as the older motion sensor you just won't be able to configure the settings

The need for them is debatable and is really dependant on the situation. As MustangChris04 stated, a while house install generally will not need the extenders. Even should I've be needed, a person is probably better off making use of a lamplibc or appliance module. Same benefit and the benefit of additional capabilities. I do keep a couple around for 1 off situations. Over the past 3 to 4 years, I think i've only used 1.

The lamplibc is rated for a minimum 5watts so that may play a part as well

I'd test regardless of what specs show to ensure it performs the way you like. I went with 120v bulbs vs low voltage pot lights because I wanted to be able to easily swap things out as quality and performance improved.

+3 on rain machine. Mine isn't added to my Isy but I've found out does everything I need without the extra programming

They are at least 7 years old. Bring that they are powerline only, they could be affected by noise. While is tempting to keep them unless they are already in use, you're better off upgrading

I do the same as Oberkc except iadd an auto enable program just in case I forget to re-enable my program

If this is going to be a true backup (not used until the old goes bad) then udi can switch your modules over to the new one when the time comes that you need it. If your using it for testing etc. Then you will need to purchase the modules for it

I think that box is simply a generic dialogue box for devices in general not necessarily specifically what a can do. It's akin to other software/apps that provide information but greyed out boxes means you can't select something. There's no right or wrong way to call it. Changing it may help some people while hurting others. As you learn about devices and how they work, alot that seems confusing will seem much more obvious in time.

Motion sensors (as all sensors) are controllers only. They cannot be responders. Doing so would make their behavior erratic causing more issues than you would probably want. By design, motion sensors are designed for room/area coverage. Walk in the light goes on. Walk out it turns off. In a room or area without good coverage the motion sensor can be a headache but it's easy to work around that vs the opposite. For example, you manually turn on a light switch. Are you saying you want the light on until manually turned off or do you want the sensor to turn it off? If their isn't sufficient or proper coverage, you'll either constantly need to purposely walk in the area of the sensor or end up in the dark because it doesn't know you're around. The same with turning a light off. If you manually turn off a light and the sensor happens to pick you up, should it turn the light back on or leave it off. What happens if someone walks in behind you? Since you manually turned it off, does it turn the lights on or leave them off? I'm theory it would be nice but in practice it's a bigger pain. For my sensors I use programs. If I physically hit the light switch, it will disable my programs so the motion sensor doesn't kick in. Physically turning off the switch will automatically re-enable them. There's also an auto-enaboe just in case I forget to turn off the light

You're welcome. I would simplify that alot more than what you have it. I would also shorten the timeout. 10 minutes is a really long time. Personally I would do 1-3 minutes max (assuming good coverage). I would then write a program that says if status 2477s is on and ms2 is not switched on, then wait 5 minutes and turn off light. As long as the motion sensor is triggered, the wait will never be fulfilled keeping the lights on. The 3 minutes also allows you to manually turn off the lights when leaving the room and lessens the chance of motion catching you and simply turning them back on.

Gotta order custom buttons

A motion sensor can only be a controller. It cannot respond to commands. It's sounds more like a configuration issue. I would shorten your timeout proud so it sends the on command more often. your other option would be to send only on commands and let the isy handle timeouts via programs

It wasn't short lived. It simply never sold enough to warrant what it cost to make and carry them them.

I thought so too but he says he's not so I left it alone.

If he puts the kpl into 8 button mode and creates a scene with A&B together as well as G&H, he can get the 6 button look with separate controls. He could then add everything he wants to turn off with the bottom button as responders set to turn off.

Yes, that is what I was instructing you to do

If this were me, I'd remove the kpl from the isy, put it in 8 button mode and then re-add it back to the isy. You can find the instructions in the full manual on smarthome.com. Once that's done, I would link the top 2 buttons together (as controllers) so that the light turns on regardless of whether A or B is pressed. I'd then link the bottom 2 buttons together in the same manner. Once done, I'd add all of the lights to it that I want off, as responders in the off position. This setup will allow the top to control the main Lights as currently configured and the bottom button will shut off all the lights. Should you only want the main lights on/off the top will allow that as well without turning anything else off.

Ignoring the lights for a second, do you hear a click from the iolinc when turning on/off?

There's different ways to do this depending on your end game. Some are much more detailed than others. How do you currently have things configured? At the very basic level, you simply add all devices to your all off scene as off. The kpl will still control the load is attached to and everything will turn off when you hit your all off button.

They are attached to the bed facing inwards. On 3 sides. I didn't do the back since that's against the wall and wouldn't be seen @larryllixThe hue strips comes with everything you need. Depending on the size of your bed you'll need some of the extra extensions.

Your reasons are exactly why I set it up that way. It doesn't wake up someone who may be sleeping should you get out of bed for some reason. Each room has its own bathroom. Even if a person is gone longer than the time out, it'll kick back on when the bathroom light turns out and when someone is in the vicinity (if they went somewhere else) I have insteon motion sensors under my beds on both sides angled to pick up a person sitting up to get out of the bed. I use insteon's because they have a flat top which makes it easier to mount than the round fibaro. I use hue light strips (any would work) and a program which triggers them when all lights are off at night time

Actually it can be done with 1 program for each room. Depending on how done... 4 lines

I don't worry about automation for guests. The simpler the better. Less questions as well. All bedrooms have predefined scenes on the keypad and remotes for each room and that's it. Any voice control is very simple (this is throughout the house). Tell Google to turn on a light and it will turn on the main light. Tell it to turn off then all lights turn off. This way regardless of what someone turns on and how, the lights turns off. What automation is done is generally behind the scenes. Leave lights on in an empty room it'll turn off. Get out of bed in the middle of the night, the underbed lights turn on/off. Fall asleep with the lights on; they'll turn off on their own.