lilyoyo1

I'm not understanding your point then since you were saying i was exaggerating the shortcomings of zwave which (for me) is a non starter (which my answer was based on my opinion)

Exaggeration is in the eye of the beholder. What may be a simple nuisance for some may be a deal breaker for others. Those delays and the popcorn effect are non starters for me. The variable differences in quality as well. Even well thought out zwave switches feel inferior to insteon and that hasn't been changed in over 10 years (which I readily admit has grown long in the tooth). The fact that you have to do so much to accomplish mundane tasks (parameters) is also a turn off. Once you learn insteon or most any other device, you can toss the manuals for the most part....Not zwave. Time is money and zwave wastes both for me. Does it work...of course. Just not up to my standards

I'd go with dummy switches and hue bulbs for certain things before I ever used zwave for lighting. The experience isn't a great one unless you're willing to settle. Diy smart lighting products does nothing to increase resale value though it may make a person who wants it purchase yours over another. High end residential lighting systems are a different story. These can increase value but only in similar classed homes. Mid-high to high end homes having a lutron or C4 system will be valued higher than a similar home with nothing. Put it in a low middle and below home, you'll find that out will probably hurt more than it helps. Appraisers will make adjustments for smart tech in general for things such as thermostats, locks, integrated alarm systems, etc. across all classes of homes. It's similar to car buying. If you take a $2k car and put $5k dollar wheels on it, it's still a $2k car. However, if you buy a high end luxury car and put the upgraded wheels on that, it'll be worth more money. Go to any tire shop and use their off the shelf wheels (while they may look better), the value is only there for the person who wants the look. Everyone else will pass

Good thing they're only about 1ea for a toggle and 2.00 for paddle

That's easy enough. None really generate alot of heat so they could go in any closet. Depending on house setup, if you have a coat closet in the center, many times the doorbell transformer will be there. If so, you could tap into that for power and then run Ethernet from your basement to the closet. Add a switch and now you're done. Before I started doing new construction only, I've hidden stuff behind picture frames, built hidden boxes to sit planters on and put stuff in those, etc. Sometimes it's thinking outside the box and making things part of the environment

I might be over thinking things, but wouldn't it be easier to use wifi with a polisy pro or run a line from your router to your optimal location and put polisy there vs trying to figure stuff out with a USB stick and adapters?

What was your program?

Reboot ISY and make sure device is close to it

I've never had a problem on any of the firmwares. Are you using Mac or pc? Firmware/UI

How far are you trying to go? They're are people here who have been successful with 40+ feet. With that said, they used high quality shielded cables. I believe it was @Teken

I doubt it. Not at the pace we keep buying

Michel has stated they've applied to be a partner so I think it's a good chance. Alarm integration depends on needs. The M1 is a great system but can be difficult to install.

I wouldn't say that. My suppliers has already let it be known things are in limited supply.

Yes it does junk up things since you're potentially sending messages that aren't needed. Personally, retries are a bandaid to fix communication issues. If you have issues, you're better off trying to solve them instead. If you can't, that's when retries comes into play

I definitely understand that. I say that to my wife and her friends when it comes to medical stuff. Depending on who you talk to you'll get a different response.

It's not a bug to them. It's only a bug to you since you're trying to use it outside of what they intended. They are only looking at what they officially support and nothing else. In that regard, the system is doing what it's supposed to do so it's not a bug. I'm submitting a request to though it's not something I'd ever use. It seems like they want a closed ecosystem but it doesn't hurt to ask

I don't use Ra2 but yes you would use a nodeserver. Regardless of what you use, you must invest in a strong mesh. Lutron is not zwave (and vice versa) so they do not piggyback off one another. What you use for sensors and so forth would be a personal choice. Since you said zwave sensors, you would need to invest in hardwired zwave devices. I use in wall receptacles for this purpose as they are below eye level so go unnoticed by people. You can use plug in modules should you choose however. As long as you have enough lutron devices within range of your base station, you would be alright with a few for testing purposes. You don't need to do the whole home. Personally, I'd wait and get the ra3 processor. It'll work with most ra2 devices (most likely all that you'd choose initially) which will save you money in the long run.

Zwave is generally slower than insteon but not 2-3 seconds slower. Keep in mind, this is still early on in testing. Most likely it'll improve.

In the grand scheme of things in regards to automation, there are no compelling reasons to choose Ra3 over Zwave. I think it comes down to what a person is looking to get from their devices. Looks matter!!! In fact it's probably just as important as performance (maybe slightly more). I then look at ease of use, servicing, and finally cost. If Cost wasn't a factor, Id go with Crestron, Savant, or Homeworks (with ketra). Im basing my reasons with Ra3 on the sunnata dimmer which is the same device without the smarts. My reasons overlap in both my professional life and personal life. For me, automation starts from the moment you see it- before you ever experience anything. Its paramount to have something that moves you the moment you see it and gives a person that WOW feeling. Ra3 has that. Its like buying a luxury car for the first time after having a regular car all of your life. From the moment you look at it, you want to drive it. The moment you touch the door handles to open the door and feel the difference. Even closing the door just feels better (especially if you have soft close). Once inside, the difference in the seats and leather all the way to the buttons and screens plays into the experience and how it makes you feel. The experience changes your perception of things. That's the feeling I want my switches and setup to convey. Ra3 switches with the light bar simply stands out and makes people notice in ways no Zwave switch can. When unused, the soft glow that it has will make people stop and admire it. Then you touch the device....Turning the paddle on and off is completely silent. No click, no hard clunk like standard paddles....Just silence. Then the feel of the device when you operate it is different. Luxurious feeling. Its not that cold, hard, cheap plastic feel like most switches. Very solid feeling. Then the light bar which sets it apart from others. No more holding a switch just to dim it. You just touch or slide it to the level you want. The soft glow that gets brighter as the light turns on/off and then dims down softly to a faint glow. Performance wise, Lutron's reputation is beyond reproach. No need to rehash how it simply works all the time-every time (when properly installed). The speed of communication and responsiveness is unmatched except by hardwired systems. What sets it apart from zwave is dimming ability. Using the same bulbs, I was able to get more usable light at a lower level with the sunnata dimmer than I was with a zooz Zen72 dimmer I purchased to compare. This holds true against an insteon dimmer from the old and new line. Turn on performance was much better as well with the sunnata for low level lighting. One thing I noticed with the zooz was that the bulb took a few seconds before it would actually light up when at the lowest setting. This behavior could potentially be different when used with a different bulb however. Ditto for the sunnata if I used a different bulb. One thing Ra3 brings that the standard Sunnata does not have is the ability to be used with ELV and MLV LEDs which will allow it to work with a greater range of products. Professionally, I like that I do not have to replace every light switch with a Ra3 switch to keep everything looking uniform. This can save customers money since they aren't forced to make a decision on whether to buy more of something they dont want to keep uniformity or to have different looking switches throughout the house. By offering the sunnata switch as well, they have a consistent look, feel, and operation throughout the home. I do have easy access to devices at discounted prices so that does help alot. Even avg. people has access- they just pay full price for it.

You may want to check on Roomie remote's forum as there isn't many people here using it.

Were they originally 6 button kpls with an 8 button faceplate? Does your UI match your firmware? Are you using the launcher from the 5.3.4 page?

I'd upgrade to 5.3.4. Clear your Java cache, and make sure you use the launcher from the post.

?. You're way off in your description but i appreciate it.

Since your devices are 300 series, you won't see the benefits of 700 series. 700 series has greater range than 300 or 500 but 800 series is the long range version (open air)

The fact that you've turned to childish name calling, and still have a side comment with every post shows that YOU'RE the one with a tender ego. You knock everything that everyone says then cry "leave me alone" when called out, and delete your posts like a child. I'm still waiting for you to have a single post that actually helps someone vs trying to appear like you're smarter than everyone else but in the end....