larryllix

You seem to be quite aware of the factory reset difficulty and have done that quite well....agreed. I would check the ISY log to see if it recorded a beep sent right after receiving signals from it. Then swap the device and see if it corrects itself. You could try completely deleting the device from ISY. Power cycling ISY to make sure it really forgets it, and then relinking the SwitchLinc. I didn't think there is even an option for software to cause a beep on paddle operation. This could be a defective device.

Do you have any remote CPU devices that input into your ISY Rest inputs or using any Node servers? I notice that NodeLink can reboot ISY remotely, so it is possible for another external device to reboot ISY intentionally, or even by comm error.

I would try the factory reset again. It can be tricky with SwitchLincs because if the buttom stops at the neutral position and it is On for even a half second the factory reset will fail.

With V5.x, all linear devices can take a variable value to set their levels AFAIK. I have built some 2-3 hour ramps using that technique. (sunset simulation) I also "borrow" some RGBW bulbs for flashing red when garage doors are open, and at midnight as a bedtime warning, and then replace their previously saved values from variables. ISY only uses percentages so the resolution is 1%, while most devices I have programmed take 0-255 (8 bit) values. The driver has to convert. Not much of a change in perception until you get down to the low percentages. Then 2% down to 1% halves the light output.

The LEDenet controllers you linked to are PWM voltage switching outputs. They will dim down to 0.4% level no problem. @Scottmichaelj should have experience with the real MagicHome UFO controllers regarding scenes inside ISY.

Under the devices tab in the admin console you should find an "Options" button on the device's page. There ire some options there.

I cannot answer that as I don't use PolyGlot for LED strips/bulbs. You will have to load the PolyGlot node server and try it. I can send my NRs to control my LEDs simultaneously with my Insteon equipment. Sometimes the LEDs come on first and sometimes the Insteon switches come on first. It is not predictable with different technologies and comm pathways. The ISY program delay cannot be measured or seen and I know it isn't a factor unless multiple devices are being controlled from the NR with different addresses. With PWM dimming techniques that the controllers use you can dim lighting right down to 1% without any flicker. With an Insteon dimmer that is not likely going to happen. SwitchLincs with LED bulbs usually flicker and/or fail about 8-15% levels. The PSU unit you linked to may be way oversize for RGBW strips. Some recommend a 60W supply for all four channels but after measuring and testing, even a 12W PSU will run all four RGBWW channels simultaneously without problems. I use a 3A 12v PSU for two 5m RGBW strips (radially fed) , four channels lit simultaneously without problem. This has worked fine for MiLight controllers and now LEDenet controllers the same. Sequentially feeding two 5m strips doesn't work either ,as the voltage drop gets too large and the second strip starts to show dimming with increasing length.

I would contact UDI and explain your situation. The extra modules are usually transferrable and some deals have been given out for upgrading from the old 99 to the newer 994 module, as well.

Nice! It actually has up to a 5HP contact rating for motor usage, also.

Those "scenes" you are referring to in the app are just groupings in the app and not installed into the controllers. Nothing does scenes like Insteon devices, where the parameters are preset inside the devices. I have about a dozen of the LEDenet controllers you referred to in your link and they are not MagicHome units. They may not be compatible with the MagicHome UFO protocol or the Polyglot nodeserver. I have had to modify my software to accommodate the different knockoff protocols. These have an extra CW channel that my bulbs do not. They can also be set to RGBW levels before turning them on while the bulbs must be turned on before setting any levels. These controllers can mix RGB and White while the bulbs cannot. It's either RGB or White. All these factors demand a slightly different protocol for the two styles. I do both of these styles with only three NRs total, but that requires my bridging software. It could be done with many NRs if you want more speed between strips. When you share NRs for different strips/bulbs you will require Wait 1-2 seconds between each command or the parameters will end up mixed up with ISY variable substitution. AFAIK none of these devices have any slow ramping. They have a normal mode with a very quick ramp, maybe 0.5 seconds , as well as a music mode which makes them instantaneously change levels. Ramping cannot be done from software. The level jumping shows and the packets may not stay in order, from a RPi port anyway.

These Insteon stats don't send updates on changes less than about 1.5 degrees C or about 2+ degrees F. IIRC if you force a change at the stat locally to some setting it will update the temperature with the status change.

I installed a variable speed, constant pressure Grundfos pump into my well. The largest 120vac pump I could get, was 1/2 HP and at 150 deep will barely lift water to pressurise my house. Yeah I had to buy hundreds of dollars of "monster" conductor cable. So I can say for fairly sure that his pump will be 240V or else he would need a second stage. Motors can have 20-30 times the startup current (locked rotor amps) than running and when you break voltage to them 10-20 times the supplied voltage kick-back. In the case of a well pump there should always be a load on it to absorb the inductive voltage "kick-back" so that may not be a problem. IOW: I doubt there will be an Insteon switch capable of handling this and a relay/contactor will be required for sure unless he has some softstart pump (mine is and runs fine from a On/Off plug-in module) or it has a control circuit input. Electrical devices usually require a convenience switch and a SwitchLinc is not going to do this. I have to reinforce your warnings to the OP . Get an educated electrician.

Your A/C compressor is worth much more than a decent hardwired thermostat. Compressors can even start backwards if cycled too quickly or if the signal fails you could come home to a frozen evaporator. Get a proper wired smart thermostat with proper cycling hysteresis and control it from ISY.

Yes. Repeat only repeats following lines. Sent using Tapatalk

There is no better QA. Quality Assurance is quality control by the end user. Most users will not bother with the hassle of the investigation, complaint, proof, arguing with some idiot that doesn't even understand what ISY is , return shipping etc. and QA means the manufacturer doesn't do anything other than visual inspection while packaging, or at the most, sample one device out of each production run, to see if it even works at all. Perhaps you meant QC (Quality Control) but from the few products I have had to eat directly from SmartHome, they definitely have no QC. I will never order directly from SmartHome again. Being in Canada, the two way shipping costs for a defective product is higher than the savings from any sale they have ever offered. Then there is the reclaiming of the taxes from Canada Customs on straight refunds.

If all else failed, it would be nice if ISY had a self-triggerable backup. A backup at 3:00 AM each morning could be a valuable tool for an out-of control programmer, or hacker.

I just use NRs to send commands to a RPi. This is received and used to control my 30 strips and bulbs from a custom bridging software I fabricated myself and lives with Nodelink and a few other ISY servicing software tools. Sent using Tapatalk

If you answer oberkc's question it may change the method of condition in the program. The one given will not detect if the light us turned on from other sources. Sent using Tapatalk

Are fanlinks not just another triac based dimmer used with a motor, and why they cause humming and burn out frequently? OTOH, fanlincs may have some built in noise suppression in an attempt to make them more suitable for motor applications. Sent using Tapatalk

We need to see the exact syntax for the program. There are various methods of detecting events. Right click on the program title in the program tree and select copy to clipboard. Then past it here. What MS device are you using?

Welcome to the UDI forums!!! A simple re-kicker If section in case of stalling (reboot or user interference) and a looping repeat in Then should do your job. If time is 8:00 AM OR time is 8:00 PM <------- more times could be added if critical that it runs. Then Repeat every 19 minutes <-----this really means "Repeat after waiting 19 minutes". set Scene On Wait 1 minute set Scene Off Else ----

@keribi ...and the program icons should be displayed with a warning...in yellow. Look for other programs with yellow avatars.

Somebody could unscrew the bulb and then there would be nothing ISY could do. If somebody turned the switch off, they may want it left off. If we don't ever want it off, ISY can deal with the notification when it was switched. The options are there for whatever you can imagine to do with it and not just lightbulbs.

Gives a bracketed timeframe from x time FOR y time. Sent using Tapatalk

ISY cannot cycle itself. Once off what would turn it back on? Heartbeats for LDs do not reset themselves. They just transmit a signal each 24 hours. If you detect anything that is not 99999 you should trigger your program each day. LDs need to be manually reset with the button on them after triggering or they will not trigger again. Sent using Tapatalk