larryllix

In conjunction with Techman (above), you can add a small resistor or incandescent lamp to the strips to create some "normal" loading. Updating your ApplianceLinc to an OnOff module also gets you a dual band network improvement.

I find the batteries last the same length of time in the cold or warm. What does change is the battery voltage and it ma appear to be a low voltage. The tag battery percentage left compensates for the low voltage when they are exposed to cold temperatures. If you have one with a lower voltage you may notice the voltage will come back up when the battery is warmed up again. "arming" is the term they apply to the Tag for motion sensitivity. Temperature, humidity and lux can be set to a range limit and can update automatically if it falls outside of your set limits. All notifications can be disabled and still trigger the kumoapp updates. I haven't found any good explanations from CAO on this, but have done some experimenting to discover these tags don't have to be set to fast updating, using up the battery life and "hammering" ISY with constant data.

LOL! You must have gone through dozens of batteries per year with those 1 minute updates. I leave mine all at 15 minute updates but you can set specific characteristics of each Tag to update when triggered by that action. eg: The tag on my garage door updates every 15 minutes but notifies me via KumoApps ----> REST ----> ISY in seconds when the door moves open or closed. The same with leaving my fridge door open too long. You may need to re-examine your approach there by using the monitoring options in Kumoapps, to avoid killing batteries and swamping your ISY. The KumoApps line tag.updated = function() { only runs the code to update ISY when something changes so you should only have had updates in ISY when something changed. I have since installed a heartbeat in that code so I can tell the Tags are even still alive after many minutes of nothing updating. I use five variables for each of my 8 tags without making my ISY busy. Glad you got your ISY problem isolated now

How did you resolve the kumoapps hyperactivity? What does your kumapps code look like?

I let ISY control everything and use no other skill inside Alexa or Google Home apps. That way I can order things to look the best. Longer ramping for the first devices and turning on the ones most prevalent to your eye all helps. I find the Insteon controls overhead pot lights are best coming on first. Then the cabinet lights and other fluff can come on later once I can see. They don't get noticed because most of them are behind your back as you enter the room. Turning things off is usually done the opposite sequence for best effect. For off sequences I usually install a Repeat 2 times loop in the program. I have few stubborn WiFi bulbs that miss every so often.

In conjunction with io_guy above, a few minutes of off every cycle can allow some wicks/filters to soften the scale somewhat, as it re-wets itself more completely. The hardened scales can stop the water from wicking completely and wear out your wick/drum faster.

I don't dim or brighten a scene. If I did modify the scene, and then turn it on, it would take many seconds to get a lighting response and I would reprogrmming the eproms in the switchLinc dimmers every time.. In my Gathering Room I use individual commands like... Alexa Turn On TV lights Alexa. Turn On Reading lights OK Google. Turn on movie lights OK Google. Turn on Easter lights Alexa. Turn on bright lights Alexa. Turn on dim lights OK google. Turn off gathering room lights These are all programs that operate banks of lights. The Insteon lights are in scenes and the non-Insteon are NRs. Some were Hues (just removed them) and others to a RPi that can operate them (RGBWW) almost simultaneously However, I do use relative commands for A/V volume as the receiver supports it. Alexa. Turn On louder Alexa. Turn on softer

The US spelling was the answer!!! So I had two problems. Alexa routine process was somehow locked up and vocals are translated into US spelling and then compared with your text. Thanks so much. In the back of my mind, I did see somebody discussing US spelling differences but I wasn't into that subject matter at the time, and walked away mentally. The UDI forum has so much diversification now, it is hard to even read/absorb it all, now.

Wow! Looks like UV exposure but on the back against a receptacle, it's not likely. I don't see any signs of overheating from a loose connection and/or high loads. You need to put some vaseline on the next plug inserted there and plug it in and out a few times to wipe it in. Silicone grease is even better if you have access to some. This can happen with aluminum against some other metals. They can bond after a time.

Ahhhh! Never thought of that. Since Alexa doesn't seem to use phonetic spelling analysis it may not recognise the word or spelling. I'll have to try the US spelling as a test. Some of my neighbours are bors so.......I knew I should have bought my Echoes at amazon.Ceh?

Got it! I disabled ISY skill and then enabled it again. My garage door routines started work. Thanks so much!!! Then I went back to the original vocal trigger routine and it still will not work. I tried various phrases with many failures. I eliminated the word "neighbour" and it started to work. It seems "neighbour" is a dirty word that it associates with something else and it confuses Alexa. Thanks again! This has been a while for frustration.

Thanks. I tried adding a second action in both routines. One was a notification via all echoes before and then after the vocal. The other was a message sent to my mobile device. Both tested OK but will not trigger from the contact variable. When asked Alexa reports the status OK still. Finding the announcement action, I decided there was a better notification as it can go out to all devices. Way too much echo but left them on only two devices. I will try the disconnect and reconnect. I have done this before but WTH? you never know with these things.

I am using a vocal named "Garage Doors". I tried a one word vocal "GarageDoors" and also "GarageX Doors" to try the app memory jog mentioned. This becomes the Alexa app name after each discovery. The state variable is named "$sGarage.Doors.both.closed" The Alexa routine is... Trigger: Garage Doors closed, Response:Vocal:custom: "Both garage doors are now closed", Vocal to:Mobile device Trigger: Garage Doors open, Response:Vocal:custom: "A garage door has opened", Vocal to:Mobile device Variable changes with status change of the variable. Both routines (open/closed) vocalise properly when manually tested from app. Questions like Alexa. Are the garage doors closed/open? responds with The garage doors is close/open There is absolutely no problem getting the status via ISY Portal into the Alexa app. This routine failure is the same for some vocal triggers. Other vocal to vocal routines have been working well..

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried renaming my spoken as well as using a single word name for it. I rebuilt, deleted and rediscovered my ISY devices. (need a mass delete back). I changed the device from a contact sensor, to a light switch, and motion detector, each time rediscovering, deleting the routines, rebuilding them, disabling, and re-enabling them with no joy. My garage doors variable is sensed by Alexa when asked if my garage doors are open, giving proper responses, and yet no triggering works from the same status point. I followed every instruction I could in the ISY wiki instructions. No such luck. I opened another ticket for this again with Amazon via the app. We'll see if anything happens this time.

Can you press a preset on your car radio and get a station just above the preset? Insteon scenes are presets and almost unlimited. Create a new bunch that are dimmer or brighter than the one you want to modify. I use a single state variable with a bank of programs in an obscure folder each with two lines. If $sVariable is 1 Then Set scene LowLights On If $sVariable is 2 Then set scene DimLights On etc..etc.. Never install an else section in any of the programs. Create on Off level scene also $sVariable = 0 Add one to the variable and the lights go on brighter. Use Integer variables as constants to remember the names of the levels. Preset and Init them to any value you like. If $sVariable is $cLEVEL.DIM Then set scene DimLights On. Usage set $sVariable = $cLEVEL.DIM Voila! the lights respond with whatever scene you like. Later when you add non_Insteon and non_Zwave lighting the programs can add devices to them with changing your main logic programs.

Description. discussion, tutorials and photos all covered.

Welcome to the forums!! I gave up. I tried to fix this every week or so many times but no success. This is not an ISY problem. This is an alexa problem. Some examples are only using alexa to alexa routines.

I agree. Backing will not hold even when facing up. I used the clear silicone two hole clamps available. Some used hard track that fits them. See the original thread on this. You will need to be ableto replace the strips if some ever burn out. I have hd segments burn out of one colour. Only whenneww though...so far. My son has bunch of white ones with a lot of burned out LEDs and the PS and controllers are behind cabinets. Make sure to paint the surfaces with reflective white paint before the trim. You will need a place to mount the power supply and controller somewhere. An extension cable can be fabricaed with flat ribbon cable to get the big lumps out of sight. One power supply and two controllers in a centra spot radially feeding the two strips would work. Serially feeding more than the 5m strips (normally supplied) doen't work well. The far end will be visibly dimmer from voltage drop.

OTOH. Knowing that he kwen that you would know.....He spent years building up an immunity to blast shields. Better not go there. ....as you wish!

There no time scale indicated to make your point clear. I would think my shower would be done by the time my Tags reported high humidity if I started at the beginning of a 15 minute update period. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I remember hearing years ago, a scene that turns a device Off will turn it back on when you turn the scene off. I have never tried it. I do use Off scenes though.

I was buying the 6A 12vdc power supplies with the big box in the middle of the cord also. I have measured loads and found that a 6A will run two 5m length RGBWW strips full on, simultaneously, no problem. Now I run some on 2A and 3A wallwart style power supplies now. never had a problem using the LEDenet controllers. Here is one of the threads with pictures.

LEDenet. Look for a thread with photos and instructions...Magichome is the same protocol Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I prefer them also because they are compatible with the 24 rgbww bulbs I bought for around $10 cad each Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Where are the strips located? Do you fasten them up to the frame facing down or just lay them on the floor? Do you run them down the sides and across the bottom of the bed? I am not familiar with the Hue strips but I understand they would require a 12v adapter PS and a controller that receives their form of Zigbee, where the strips would be plugged into? Is that correct? (I am just in the process of possibly dumping my Hue things)